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The seams of slim fit outdoor pants can be uncomfortable or even restrict body movement. To reduce discomfort, the authors need to determine optimal cutting lines in various designs that do not interfere with body movement. The purpose of this paper is to apply skin deformation mapping during movement to the ergonomic design of outdoor pants, focusing in particular on the 2D pattern generation of the crotch area in a 3D shape during movement.

A 3D shape and skin length deformation of the lower body were observed, including the crotch area, which is difficult to examine on the human body. To design ergonomic and streamlined outdoor pants, the authors selected seam lines where the changes in skin deformation are at their minimum based on the skin deformation mapping. In addition, the inseam along the medial thigh close to the crotch was removed to adjust the skin length of these areas, thereby increasing the extensible area of fabric necessary to adjust to a skin deformation. After selecting the seam lines, each of the 3D pattern blocks was generated by means of a 2D flattening method. In addition, the stress distribution of overlapped replica blocks along the crotch line during the 2D flattening process is a main independent factor to avoid deteriorating lower body movement as well as a good appearance.

Based on the results of skin deformation mapping of a human subject, this study suggested that it is best that the design line crosses where there is no skin deformation possible. And the pants were developed without the inner seam line at the upper medial thigh because of skin deformation of a large range of ±6 percent in the upper medial thigh during a 90° knee flexion or in the squatting down position. In a wear test, the developed 3D pattern without an inseam was rated higher than that with an inseam. This verified that removing the inseam, to prevent skin deformation of the medial upper thigh during knee flexion and squatting, is a logical decision. Regarding the correction of the overlapping area during arrangement of the replica, the appearance of the front of the pants was improved when 80 percent of the overlapping area was distributed near the point of the error source, which is the front of the male’s crotch line.

In this study, the crotch area, which has been difficult to observe in previous studies, were observed thoroughly and it was found that the length of the crotch curve did not increase during movement. In addition, skin deformation was mapped during a 90° knee flexion or in the squatting down position. It is expected that the overall process of developing 3D streamlined outdoor pants from 3D skin deformation mapping can be expanded to the development of patterns for other customized functional pants.

The purpose of this paper is to focus on solving a fit problem associated with female pants by taking into account the body shape of crotch curves. The patterns of customized pants could be altered with the distance ease (DE) distribution along the crotch curve.

Four pairs of pants with different crotch ease allowances were designed based on a standard mannequin, and used to study how the DE was distributed along the crotch curve at a given ease allowance. The unclothed mannequin and the four pants, which were dressed, respectively, on the mannequin, were scanned consecutively by a body imaging system. The crotch curve of the unclothed mannequin was superimposed on that of each clothed mannequin to exhibit the differences in radial distance so that the DE distribution could be measured.

Through the regression analysis, the prediction models were established to express the relationships between the DE and the ease allowance. These models could be used to estimate the DEs along a crotch curve to reflect its asymmetrical shape when a total allowance was selected. The crotch curves on the pant patterns could be then modified by adding the predicted DEs to the scanned crotch curve.

This study demonstrated a new pattern alteration approach to achieve a better fit for customized female pants based on the 3D scanning data. This approach can be extended to pattern alterations for men’s pants and other shape-critical products.

The purpose of the present study was to improve the fit of women’s bifurcated garments by developing an equation that can predict the crotch length accurately by using a few basic body measurements. This equation could provide a simple mass-customization approach to the design of bifurcated garments.

Demographic characteristics and easy-to-record body measurements available in the size USA database were used to predict the crotch length. Different methodologies including best subset regression, lasso regression and principal components regression were experimented with to identify the most important predictor variables and establish a relationship between the significant predictors and crotch length.

The lasso regression model provided the highest accuracy, required only five body dimensions and dealt with multicollinearity. The preliminary pattern preparation and garment fit tests indicated that by utilizing the proposed equation, patterns of customized garments could be successfully altered to match the crotch length of the customer, thereby, improving the precision and efficiency of the pattern making process.

Crotch length is a crucial measurement as it determines bifurcated garment comfort as well as aesthetic fit. The crotch length is usually estimated arbitrarily based on non-scientific methods while drafting patterns, and this increases the likelihood of dissatisfaction with the fit of the lower-body garments. The present study suggested an algorithm that could predict crotch length with 90.53% accuracy using the body dimensions height, hips, waist height, knee height and arm length.

This paper presents methods and algorithms to automatically segment and measure the human body.

In the segmentation procedure, two different methods are designed to find the crotch point for the situation of non‐contacted thigh and contacted thigh, respectively. Three different methods: minimum distance algorithm, minimum inclination angle algorithm, and directional neighbor identification algorithm are introduced to search the branching points or triangle. In the body measurement procedure, a pre‐sorted circling method is designed for circumference measurement, and the basic principle of landmark acquisition has been discussed. These techniques are validated via testing over different type of scanned model.

The results of automatic segmentation and body measurement have verified that our methods are efficient and versatile in processing different type of scanned body.

The accurate and automatic locating of wrist, ankle and knees contour can be more difficult than it appears to be.

The main usage of scanned body in our research is for 3D garment try‐on.

This paper introduces the methods for crotch identification, and the methods including minimum distance algorithm, minimum inclination angle algorithm, and directional neighbor identification algorithm for human body segmentation. It also explains the fundamental measuring techniques, and outlines the results of using these techniques in segmentation and measurement.

The purpose of this paper is to propose the swimsuit patternmaking method suitable for the body shapes of middle-aged women and to propose the swimsuit pattern development procedures that enable automated swimsuit patternmaking.

To propose the patternmaking method of the swimsuit, which is suitable for the body shape of middle-aged women, the swimsuit patterns were developed in three stages in this study. The measurements of the middle-aged woman body model were compared with the size of the developed pattern in each stage, and the optimal stretch rate of the fabric was defined. In total, 22 items were used for size analysis of developed patterns in each stage.

The swimsuit patternmaking method proposed in this study was derived by considering the body shapes of middle-aged women, desired design and fabric characteristics. Also, a series of processes, including obtaining a raw pattern from the surface of the three-dimensional (3D) human body, designing patterns by the expert, evaluating patterns, drafting the final pattern and the final patternmaking method, was presented.

This study has great significance to provide a manual of swimsuit patternmaking for middle-aged women, which has high tightness and movement compatibility.

The swimsuit patternmaking method proposed in this study is relatively simple because it is based on the human body measurements and delivers the lines and the calculated values clearly and objectively rather than the patterner's intuition does so that it is suitable for the automation of the swimsuit patternmaking for the middle-aged women.

The purpose of this paper is to find out the main factors that influence wearing comfort and how they influence garment-wearing comfort.

Overall, 120 postures were extracted from the activities of daily life and work. Then, the numerical values of clothing pressure of these postures were measured using three-dimension virtual-reality technology. Finally, the data mining technology was applied to analyze the collected data.

The wearing comfort of pants is mainly influenced by four factors – waist-hip factor, knee-shank factor, crotch factor and thigh-calf factor – and their contributions account for 39.17, 16.4, 13.96 and 6.95 percent, respectively. Hip, waist, crotch and knee influence wearing comfort significantly, and the part below the knee and the part of back thigh have no obvious effect on wearing comfort. Furthermore, the wearing comfort is acceptable if the numerical clothing pressures are below 20 kPa at the parts of hip, waist and crotch and below 10 kPa at the parts of back thigh, knee and shank.

The paper demonstrates how different human body parts influence garment-wearing comfort. All of the results in this research facilitate pattern design of pants and quantitative evaluation of garment-wearing comfort.

The purpose of this paper is to develop a “good fit” for garments for customer satisfaction, comfort, and functionality as well as a manufacturer's success and reputation.

This paper reviews and evaluates garments on a live fit model and makes recommendations for the acceptance or modification of the garment for production. As more manufacturing, product development, and designing responsibilities continue to take place globally, alternatives to the traditional fit analysis are under consideration.

Fit analysis using live and three‐dimensional scan models as an alternative to the traditional fit analysis are under consideration.

This paper evaluates garments on a live fit model and makes recommendations for the acceptance or modification of the garment for production.

With the use of 3D body scanners, body measurement techniques can be non‐contact, instant, and accurate. However, how each scanner establishes landmarks and takes the measurements should be established so that standardization of the data capture can be realized. The purpose of this study was to compare body‐scanning measurement extraction methods and terminology with traditional anthropometric methods. A total of 21 measurements were chosen as being critical to the design of well‐fitting garments. Current body scanners were analyzed for availability of information, willingness of company cooperation, and relevance to applications in the apparel industry. On each of the 21 measurements, standard measurement procedure was identified for three different scanners: [TC]², Cyberware, and SYMCAD. Of the 21 measures in the study, [TC]² was the scanner that had the most measures identified for the study and also had the capability of producing many more with specific application for apparel.

The design and testing of clothing for activewear requires complex assessments of the suitability of the clothing when the body is in motion. The purpose of this paper is to investigate full body 3D scanning of active body poses in order to develop “watertight” digital models and half-scale dress forms to facilitate design, pattern making and fit analyses. Issues around creating a size set of scans in order to facilitate fit testing of activewear across a size range were also explored.

Researchers experimented to discover effective methods for 3D body capture in the cycling position and reconstruction of the body in a reliable way. In total, 25 cyclists were scanned and size representatives were selected from these participants. Methods of creating half-scale forms were developed that make optimum use of modern materials and technologies. Half-scale dress forms were created in two active positions in a range of sizes for fit testing and design. A set of half-scale and full-scale bike shorts in two styles were manufactured and fit tested on the half-scale forms compared to fit testing on the scan participants to test validity of this method of assessing fit.

Issues in capturing and reconstructing areas occluded in the scanning process, and reconstructing the interface with the bicycle seat were addressed. Active digital forms were developed across the size range, from which both digital avatars and physical mannequins were developed for pattern development and fit testing. The production and use of precisely half-scaled tools for garment testing was achieved and validated by comparing fit test results in active positions on the half-scale forms and on participants who were scanned to create these forms.

Design modifications for active positions to date are based on linear measurements alone, which do not define the 3D body adequately. Despite much research using body scanners, only limited data exist on the body in active poses, and the concept of creating half-scale forms by scanning fit models throughout the size range in active body positions is a novel concept. The progress made in resolving material and process experiments in creating the actual half-scale forms, and testing their suitability for fit testing provides a basis for further research aimed at developing similar dress forms for other activewear garments.

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system.

In this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers’ patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method.

According to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production.

In the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.