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Article
Publication date: 7 November 2016

Kaixuan Liu, Jianping Wang, Chun Zhu and Yan Hong

Currently, the researches on garment development and wear comfort evaluation mainly focus on the static condition type and seldom involved dynamic condition. Therefore, the…

1074

Abstract

Purpose

Currently, the researches on garment development and wear comfort evaluation mainly focus on the static condition type and seldom involved dynamic condition. Therefore, the purpose of this paper is to develop cycling clothes’ patterns and evaluate their dynamic wear comfort.

Design/methodology/approach

First, the 3D-to-2D flattening technology was applied to develop garment patterns of a cycler’s jersey T-shirt. Then, 3D animation technology was used to simulate the scene of cycling. Next, a novel pressure-measuring method was proposed to measure static and dynamic clothing pressures in a virtual environment. Finally, the collected data were used for evaluating wear comfort.

Findings

Compared to static conditions, the dynamic wear comfort noticeably improved at the front neck, side neck, upper front chest, around back neck point and front shoulder, and the front neck. Compared to static conditions, the dynamic wear comfort visibly deteriorates at the back neck, below chest, outseam, back except around back neck point and around scapula, and the around scapula area. The dynamic pressure at back neck, below front chest and shoulder fluctuate wildly throughout the whole cycling. On the contrary, the dynamic pressure at the front neck, side neck, front upper chest and at the back cause it to tend to stability during cycling.

Originality/value

The 3D virtual-reality technology was applied to simulate cycling. And a novel method was proposed to measure numerical clothing pressures for evaluating the dynamic wear comfort. The proposed method can not only quantitatively evaluate the wear comfort of cycling clothes and optimize cycling clothes’ patterns, but also can be applied to other tight garment types.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 April 2017

Kaixuan Liu, Jianping Wang and Yan Hong

The purpose of this paper is to find out the main factors that influence wearing comfort and how they influence garment-wearing comfort.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to find out the main factors that influence wearing comfort and how they influence garment-wearing comfort.

Design/methodology/approach

Overall, 120 postures were extracted from the activities of daily life and work. Then, the numerical values of clothing pressure of these postures were measured using three-dimension virtual-reality technology. Finally, the data mining technology was applied to analyze the collected data.

Findings

The wearing comfort of pants is mainly influenced by four factors – waist-hip factor, knee-shank factor, crotch factor and thigh-calf factor – and their contributions account for 39.17, 16.4, 13.96 and 6.95 percent, respectively. Hip, waist, crotch and knee influence wearing comfort significantly, and the part below the knee and the part of back thigh have no obvious effect on wearing comfort. Furthermore, the wearing comfort is acceptable if the numerical clothing pressures are below 20 kPa at the parts of hip, waist and crotch and below 10 kPa at the parts of back thigh, knee and shank.

Originality/value

The paper demonstrates how different human body parts influence garment-wearing comfort. All of the results in this research facilitate pattern design of pants and quantitative evaluation of garment-wearing comfort.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 21 October 2019

Rui Dan and Zhen Shi

The area shrinkage of the body under pressure is very important to evaluate the comfort of pressure sense, and it is an important index that appraises compression garment. The…

Abstract

Purpose

The area shrinkage of the body under pressure is very important to evaluate the comfort of pressure sense, and it is an important index that appraises compression garment. The purpose of this paper is to obtain the area shrinkage mass of the waist cross section by using the finite-element method (FEM), and the waist of women’s pantyhose could be designed with a different degree of elasticity during the course of design based on clothing pressure comfort.

Design/methodology/approach

This study aimed at the problems existing in the wearing of women’s elastic pantyhose, took the waist of pantyhose as the research object, and the contact between human body and pantyhose as elastic contact. The finite-element model of the waist cross section and elastic pantyhose fabric was acquired through CT scan and Mimics software. After simulating on the corresponding displacement distribution of the waist of sample elastic pantyhose during the process of dressing by using ANSYS, the authors divided the waist cross section into 24 equal regions according to angle (every 15 degrees as a region), and then the area shrinkage mass of each region was obtained by area calculation formula. According to the tendency of area shrinkage distribution, the waist of women’s elastic pantyhose could be designed for different regions of tension considering the pressure comfort, so as to guarantee that the wearing comfort can be maintained on the premise of ensuring the functionality of the elastic pantyhose.

Findings

In this paper, the authors obtained the area shrinkage mass of elastic pantyhose at waist cross section, and this area shrinkage distribution could be used as an objective evaluation index for pressure comfort. All these solutions are of great significance to the optimization design of pantyhose and can provide theoretical basis for the structural improvement of functional pantyhose and the prediction of clothing pressure.

Originality/value

This paper simulated the area shrinkage mass for the waist of elastic pantyhose by using FEM, and the waist of women’s elastic pantyhose could be designed for different regions of tension considering the pressure comfort according to the area shrinkage distribution tendency, so as to guarantee the wearing comfort during the wearing process.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 11 April 2024

Youngsook Kim and Fatma Baytar

The research evaluated the feasibility of 3D dynamic fit utilizing female compression tops by comparatively analyzing the virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Abstract

Purpose

The research evaluated the feasibility of 3D dynamic fit utilizing female compression tops by comparatively analyzing the virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Design/methodology/approach

Six female participants were 3D body-scanned and photographed in compression tops in four types of athletic movements (pull-up, kettlebell swing, circle-crunch and sit-up). Fit measurements, waist cross-sectional areas, waist width, waist depth, numerical simulation of clothing pressure (kPa) and objective pressure measurements (kPa) were collected from 3D virtual animation, 3D fit scan data and actual photos with the four types of athletic motions. The data were comparatively investigated between virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Findings

The 3D-animated body was not reflected with human body deformation because only bone structure was changed while maintaining the constant forms of muscle and body surface in athletic movements. Due to this consistency of virtual dynamic fit, there were significant differences with the actual dynamic fit at the top length, shoulder width and waist cross-sectional areas. Also, the virtual dynamic pressure indicated significantly higher levels than the objective dynamic pressure while presenting no significant correlations at the front neckline, breast, lateral waist, upper back, back armhole and back waist.

Originality/value

This study is the first to verify multiple aspects of virtual dynamic fit using 3D digital technology. This study provided useful information about which aspects of the current virtual animation need to be improved to apply in the dynamic fit evaluation.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 12 April 2022

Chun Zhu, Kaixuan Liu, Kai Lin and Jianping Wang

The purpose of this paper is to achieve one garment with multiple uses, reduce waste and increase the fun of clothing design.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to achieve one garment with multiple uses, reduce waste and increase the fun of clothing design.

Design/methodology/approach

Through the comparison of the structural design of windbreaker with the structural design of suit and other coats, find out the similarities and differences between them in the structure then provide a reliable theoretical basis for the combination and transformation of the two; and then start with the structural theory of men's windbreaker, from the detail structure and the structure. The optimization design of the overall structure, the application of mathematical theory to establish a regular structure design method, so that it can be split through the zipper combination into men's suits or other coats. Finally, from the perspective of technology, the functional transformation from men's windbreaker to men's casual suit and other coats is completed in terms of style, structure and technology.

Findings

Through reasonable clothing structure design and invisible zipper layout, one type of clothing can be used as multiple types of clothing.

Originality/value

A new fashion design method is proposed to minimize the waste of fashion design process.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 October 2015

Albert P.C. Chan, Yang Yang, Francis K.W. Wong, Daniel W.M. Chan and Edmond W.M. Lam

– The aim of this study is to investigate wearing comfort of summer work uniforms judged by construction workers.

Abstract

Purpose

The aim of this study is to investigate wearing comfort of summer work uniforms judged by construction workers.

Design/methodology/approach

A total of 189 male construction workers participated in a series of wear trials and questionnaire surveys in the summer of 2014. They were asked to randomly wear two types of work uniforms (i.e. uniforms A and B) in the two-day field survey and the subjective attributes of these uniforms were assessed. Three analytical techniques, namely, multiple regression, artificial neural network and fuzzy logic were used to predict wearing comfort affected by the six subjective sensations.

Findings

The results revealed that fuzzy logic was a robust and practical tool for predicting wearing comfort in terms of better prediction performance and more interpretable results than the other models. Pressure attributes were further found to exert a greater effect than thermal–wet attributes on wearing comfort. Overall, the use of uniform B exhibited profound benefits on wearing comfort because it kept workers cooler, drier and more comfortable with less work performance interference than wearing uniform A.

Originality/value

The findings provide a fresh insight into construction workers’ needs for work clothes, which further facilitates the improvement in the clothing tailor-made design and the enhancement of the well-being of workers.

Details

Construction Innovation, vol. 15 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1471-4175

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 March 2023

AiHua Zhu, Shang Yang, Jianwei Yang, Dongping Long and Xin Li

Metro wheels running on different lines can undergo wear at different positions. This paper aims to investigate the effects of wheel wear at two typical positions, i.e. wheel…

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Abstract

Purpose

Metro wheels running on different lines can undergo wear at different positions. This paper aims to investigate the effects of wheel wear at two typical positions, i.e. wheel flange and tread, on the dynamic performance of metro vehicles and analyzes the differences, with an aim of providing theoretical support on wheel reprofiling for different metro lines.

Design/methodology/approach

Wheel profile data were measured on two actual metro lines, denoted A and B. It was observed that wheel wear on Lines A and B was concentrated on flanges and treads, respectively. A metro vehicle dynamics model was built using multibody dynamics software SIMPACK. Then it was applied to analyze the differences in effects of wheel wear at different positions on vehicle dynamic performance (VDP) for various speeds (50, 60 and 70 km/h) and line conditions (straight line, R1000m, R600m and R300m curves). Critical speed and vibration acceleration were used as indicators of VDP during linear motion (on straight track), while VDP during curvilinear motion (on curved track) was evaluated in terms of wheel/rail lateral force, wheel/rail vertical force, derailment coefficient and wheel unloading rate.

Findings

First, compared to wheel profile with tread wear, wheel profile with flange wear showed better performance during linear motion. When the distance traveled reached 8 × 104 and 14 × 104 km, the vehicle’s critical speed was 12.2 and 21.6% higher, respectively. The corresponding vertical and lateral vibration accelerations were 59.7 and 74.8% lower. Second, compared to wheel profile with flange wear, that with tread wear showed better performance during curvilinear motion, with smaller wheel/rail lateral force, derailment coefficient and wheel unloading rate. When the vehicle speed was 50, 60 and 70 km/h, the maximum difference in the three indicators between the two wheel profiles was 40.2, 44.7 and 23.1%, respectively. For R1000m, R600m and R300m curves, the corresponding maximum difference was 45.7, 69.0 and 44.4%, respectively.

Practical implications

The results of the study can provide a guidance and theoretical support on wheel reprofiling for different metro lines. On lines with large proportions of curved sections, metro vehicles are more prone to wheel flange wear and have poorer dynamic performance during curvilinear motion. Therefore, more attention should be paid to flange lubrication and maintenance for such lines. On lines with higher proportions of straight sections, metro vehicles are more prone to tread wear and have poorer performance on straight sections. So, tread maintenance and service requires more attention for such lines.

Originality/value

Existing research has focused primarily on the effects of wheel wear on VDP, but fails to consider the differences in the effects of wheel wear at different positions on VDP. In actual metro operation, the position of wheel wear can vary significantly between lines. Based on measured positions of wheel wear, this paper examines the differences in the effects of wheel wear at two typical positions, i.e. tread and flange, on VDP in detail.

Details

Industrial Lubrication and Tribology, vol. 75 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0036-8792

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 22 November 2022

Pengpeng Cheng

In order to study the static and dynamic comfort of tight sportswear in winter, the subjective comfort was aimed to be evaluated by collecting sensory data such as humidity…

Abstract

Purpose

In order to study the static and dynamic comfort of tight sportswear in winter, the subjective comfort was aimed to be evaluated by collecting sensory data such as humidity feeling, cold feeling and other perceptions. In this paper, the experiment was divided into standing, squatting, jumping, jogging, walking and so on.

Design/methodology/approach

Through particle swarm optimization-cuckoo search model, the sensory factors that affect the overall comfort were optimized, and it was found that there were great differences in the overall comfort factors under different motions. Then, analytic hierarchy process was used to sort the optimized sensory indicators in each experimental stage, and the influence degree of sensory indicators was studied. Finally, by the long short-term memory (LSTM) model, taking comfort senses of standing, squatting, jumping and jogging as input parameters, and regarding comfort senses of walking, lifting legs and resting as output parameters, the prediction model was founded.

Findings

The results showed that there were certain differences between the prediction value and the real subjective evaluation value, but most of the predicted values were consistent with the real values on the sensory level, and the overall prediction level was good, which meant that the LSTM model had more accurate prediction ability for subjective evaluation and could be extended to other sports.

Originality/value

The research results could provide scientific methods for the design of tight-fitting sportswear in winter.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 June 2017

Sara Bragança, Miguel Carvalho, Pedro Arezes and Susan P. Ashdown

This paper presents an analysis of several issues that are preponderant for the work-wear design. The purpose of this paper is to create a prototype of a women’s base upper body…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper presents an analysis of several issues that are preponderant for the work-wear design. The purpose of this paper is to create a prototype of a women’s base upper body garment, based on the information gathered.

Design/methodology/approach

All the necessary information was collected through questionnaires, anthropometric measurements and evaluation of compression forces between the different prototypes.

Findings

It was possible to conclude that to create a better design some alterations need to be made in the standard base pattern design, such as measurements across the back length.

Research limitations/implications

Despite the fact that these design changes have a great impact on the stretch ability and on the compression forces, using softer fabric, such as cotton, is always better for an increased comfort. However, in more professional situation where these fabrics should not be used, these design changes can really make a difference.

Practical implications

A test with a set of compression sensors showed that the simple alteration of one measurement in the design of the base patterns highly reduces the compression forces.

Social implications

These simple alterations allow the garments to adjust to the users’ needs, promoting higher levels of comfort and lower levels of limitations of movement.

Originality/value

The designs presented in this paper can be easily adapted to a variety of garments, such as jackets or dresses, both for leisure or professional activities.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 13 November 2009

George K. Stylios

Examines the fifthteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…

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Abstract

Examines the fifthteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 21 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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