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Article
Publication date: 18 April 2017

Heeran Lee, Kyunghi Hong and Yejin Lee

The seams of slim fit outdoor pants can be uncomfortable or even restrict body movement. To reduce discomfort, the authors need to determine optimal cutting lines in various…

Abstract

Purpose

The seams of slim fit outdoor pants can be uncomfortable or even restrict body movement. To reduce discomfort, the authors need to determine optimal cutting lines in various designs that do not interfere with body movement. The purpose of this paper is to apply skin deformation mapping during movement to the ergonomic design of outdoor pants, focusing in particular on the 2D pattern generation of the crotch area in a 3D shape during movement.

Design/methodology/approach

A 3D shape and skin length deformation of the lower body were observed, including the crotch area, which is difficult to examine on the human body. To design ergonomic and streamlined outdoor pants, the authors selected seam lines where the changes in skin deformation are at their minimum based on the skin deformation mapping. In addition, the inseam along the medial thigh close to the crotch was removed to adjust the skin length of these areas, thereby increasing the extensible area of fabric necessary to adjust to a skin deformation. After selecting the seam lines, each of the 3D pattern blocks was generated by means of a 2D flattening method. In addition, the stress distribution of overlapped replica blocks along the crotch line during the 2D flattening process is a main independent factor to avoid deteriorating lower body movement as well as a good appearance.

Findings

Based on the results of skin deformation mapping of a human subject, this study suggested that it is best that the design line crosses where there is no skin deformation possible. And the pants were developed without the inner seam line at the upper medial thigh because of skin deformation of a large range of ±6 percent in the upper medial thigh during a 90° knee flexion or in the squatting down position. In a wear test, the developed 3D pattern without an inseam was rated higher than that with an inseam. This verified that removing the inseam, to prevent skin deformation of the medial upper thigh during knee flexion and squatting, is a logical decision. Regarding the correction of the overlapping area during arrangement of the replica, the appearance of the front of the pants was improved when 80 percent of the overlapping area was distributed near the point of the error source, which is the front of the male’s crotch line.

Originality/value

In this study, the crotch area, which has been difficult to observe in previous studies, were observed thoroughly and it was found that the length of the crotch curve did not increase during movement. In addition, skin deformation was mapped during a 90° knee flexion or in the squatting down position. It is expected that the overall process of developing 3D streamlined outdoor pants from 3D skin deformation mapping can be expanded to the development of patterns for other customized functional pants.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 March 2010

Marie‐Eve Faust and Serge Carrier

The purpose of this paper is to show that a new size labelling system based on the data gathered by [TC]2 in the Size USA, Let's Size up America survey would better serve the…

2935

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to show that a new size labelling system based on the data gathered by [TC]2 in the Size USA, Let's Size up America survey would better serve the female population than the system currently in use.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on previous research conducted on [TC]2 data and on pants measurements in the Canadian market, a new labelling system is proposed where size information is provided with three specific body measurements along with a female silhouette pictogram.

Findings

The paper demonstrates that a size label showing three pants measurements: pants waist, approximate hips, and inseam length, accompanied by a silhouette identifying where these measures were taken, is highly predictive of fit.

Research limitations/implications

The study was limited to lower body (pants) for female.

Practical implications

A change to such a size‐labelling system would allow the apparel industry to move towards mass customisation at minimal costs. It would be more effective for the apparel order givers and retailers, enabling them to target whichever market they wish yet convey the necessary fit information in a generally accepted format. This system would also be more efficient as it would reduce the consumer time spent in fit identification and merchandise returns, in the case of internet or catalogue sales. As a corollary, it would increase both consumer shopping experience satisfaction and industry profitability.

Originality/value

The study proposes a new labelling system.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 14 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 August 2022

Wei Yin

Zoning design of pressure comfort of women's shaping pants is studied in this paper based on the new material made by the LRJ40/1F warp-knitting machine.

Abstract

Purpose

Zoning design of pressure comfort of women's shaping pants is studied in this paper based on the new material made by the LRJ40/1F warp-knitting machine.

Design/methodology/approach

According to the distribution of body fat and the pressure comfort range of the shaping pants, zoning design is carried out. The pressure comfort of the women's shaping pants is tested by the objective pressure test and the subjective evaluation method.

Findings

The result is that using the method of zoning design can satisfy the comfort of the lower limbs while improving the mobility and plasticity.

Originality/value

Pressure comfort has become an important index to evaluate the comfort of elastic shaping pants. However, there were very few studies on the relationship between the pressure comfort of warp-knitted elastic pants and the design of jacquard organization in China and abroad.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 6 March 2017

Bingfei Gu, Wenping Lin, Junqiang Su and Bugao Xu

The purpose of this paper is to focus on solving a fit problem associated with female pants by taking into account the body shape of crotch curves. The patterns of customized pants

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to focus on solving a fit problem associated with female pants by taking into account the body shape of crotch curves. The patterns of customized pants could be altered with the distance ease (DE) distribution along the crotch curve.

Design/methodology/approach

Four pairs of pants with different crotch ease allowances were designed based on a standard mannequin, and used to study how the DE was distributed along the crotch curve at a given ease allowance. The unclothed mannequin and the four pants, which were dressed, respectively, on the mannequin, were scanned consecutively by a body imaging system. The crotch curve of the unclothed mannequin was superimposed on that of each clothed mannequin to exhibit the differences in radial distance so that the DE distribution could be measured.

Findings

Through the regression analysis, the prediction models were established to express the relationships between the DE and the ease allowance. These models could be used to estimate the DEs along a crotch curve to reflect its asymmetrical shape when a total allowance was selected. The crotch curves on the pant patterns could be then modified by adding the predicted DEs to the scanned crotch curve.

Originality/value

This study demonstrated a new pattern alteration approach to achieve a better fit for customized female pants based on the 3D scanning data. This approach can be extended to pattern alterations for men’s pants and other shape-critical products.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 July 2020

Siti Zulaikha Binti Zulkifli, KyoungOk Kim and Masayuki Takatera

This study aimed to clarify the criteria for subjective evaluation of the similarities and differences between virtual and actual pants and propose a quantitative evaluation…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aimed to clarify the criteria for subjective evaluation of the similarities and differences between virtual and actual pants and propose a quantitative evaluation method for those similarities and differences based on geometric features related to the evaluation.

Design/methodology/approach

Using patterns, we made five pairs of actual pants for a dummy in five fabrics. We simulated virtual pants with a 3-D simulator. Sensory evaluation was conducted with images of the virtual and actual pants: 20 participants compared the images based on a questionnaire. For the structure of evaluation, the authors undertook analysis of variance and principal component analysis. The actual and virtual pants were geometrically compared using the 3-D scanned data. To investigate the relationship between quantitative and sensory evaluation, the authors calculated the correlation coefficients.

Findings

The authors found that subjects perceived the differences between actual and simulated pants. When comparing the virtual and actual pants, the criteria for the differences were the silhouette from the front view, hem width, waist and wrinkles. Using differences in the hem width, it would be possible to evaluate the differences between actual and simulated pants. Roughness and smoothness of the silhouette also affected evaluation.

Originality/value

The authors clarified the evaluation criteria for the similarities and differences between virtual and actual pants. The authors proposed a quantitative evaluation method for the similarities and differences between virtual and actual garment based on our criteria. This study will be of benefit to 3-D simulator users and developers.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 24 October 2022

Hyojeong Lee and Yejin Lee

To provide guidelines for the development of textile electrode compression pants that collect reliable signals during surface electromyography (sEMG) measurements and maintain a…

213

Abstract

Purpose

To provide guidelines for the development of textile electrode compression pants that collect reliable signals during surface electromyography (sEMG) measurements and maintain a comfortable level of pressure.

Design/methodology/approach

To increase skin adhesion, 12 textile electrode bands for biceps brachii were prepared according to a combination of variables, namely, the type of the textile electrode, the pressure level and the presence or absence of an electrolyte. The dry textile electrode adopted herein was developed in terms of the size and material of the contact area, and a new electrode design was proposed. After examining the optimal design conditions by measuring the sEMGs during isometric exercise of the biceps brachii, prototype pants were designed based on the design variables that gave the most promising evaluation results. The completed prototype pants were verified through isometric thigh muscle exercises.

Findings

It was confirmed that the textile electrode was capable of EMG measurement with an excellent signal quality. Upon considering the comfort of wearing the device and the cost efficiency of dry electrodes, prototype pants that adopted a fit relative to a light clothing pressure (i.e. thigh: 1.3–1.9 kPa), and combined both silicon and silver thread embroidery with a wide contact area for stability, were designed and their sEMG measurements were confirmed.

Originality/value

In this study, wearable clothing based on textile electrodes was developed to ensure a comfortable fit from the wearer's perspective, and a design method was proposed for the development of low-cost SmartWear electrodes and circuits.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 March 2015

Junqiang Su, Bingfei Gu, Guolian Liu and Bugao Xu

– The purpose of this paper is to focus on the determination of distance ease of pants from the 3D scanning data of a clothed and unclothed body.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to focus on the determination of distance ease of pants from the 3D scanning data of a clothed and unclothed body.

Design/methodology/approach

A human model whose body size conformed to the Chinese dummy standard and four pairs of suit pants were chosen for the study. The scanned surfaces of both the body and the pant were superimposed based on the preset markers. The circumferences at four important positions – abdomen, hip, thigh and knee – were selected for pant ease determination. At one position (e.g. hip), the two cross-sections were divided into several characteristic sections and the distance ease, i.e. the space between the cross-sections at each section was measured. The regression equations between the distance ease and ease allowance were then derived so that the distance ease can be estimated.

Findings

The relationship was found between the distance ease and the ease allowance. Meanwhile, a mathematic model was established to convert the distance ease into the increments of a pant pattern, which helps to develop an individual pant pattern automatically.

Social implications

The paper provided the concept and the method to customize a pant by using the 3D scanning data of body. It created a link between the 3D distance ease and the 2D ease allowance, and the model to calculate the distance ease increments which warrant proper ease distributions. The method helps to develop an individualized garment pattern automatically from a basic and tight pant pattern.

Originality/value

Understanding the relationship between the distance ease and the ease allowance and increments of pattern could help develop an individual apparel pattern from 3D measurements. This paper showed a way to solve the problem of distribution of the apparel ease in a virtual environment and convert body measurements from a 3D scanner into personalized apparel patterns.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 August 2019

Lina M. Ceballos, Nancy Nelson Hodges and Kittichai Watchravesringkan

There are numerous design principles that can guide strategic decisions and determine good product design. One principle that has received considerable attention in the literature…

Abstract

Purpose

There are numerous design principles that can guide strategic decisions and determine good product design. One principle that has received considerable attention in the literature is the MAYA principle, which suggests that consumers seek a balance of typicality and novelty in products. The purpose of this paper is to test the MAYA principle specific to various categories of apparel. By drawing from the MAYA principle as a two-factor theory, the effects of specific aesthetic properties (i.e. typicality and novelty) of apparel products on consumer response were examined.

Design/methodology/approach

An experimental design in three phases was implemented.

Findings

Results revealed that typicality is the primary predictor of aesthetic preference relative to pants and jackets, while both typicality and novelty are significant predictors of aesthetic preference relative to shirts, suggesting that the MAYA principle better explains aesthetic preference relative to shirts.

Research limitations/implications

Understanding consumers’ reactions to product design provides potential value for academics as well as practitioners.

Practical implications

Consideration of both aesthetic properties is needed when implementing the MAYA principle in apparel design.

Originality/value

Although studies have examined the MAYA principle relative to consumer products, few have examined how the principle operates relative to apparel products. The definition of a design principle, such as the MAYA principle, assumes that the logic proposed should apply to all types of products. Yet, this empirical study reveals that this is not the case when applied across different apparel categories.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 23 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 August 2019

Hyojeong Lee, Kiseong Kim and Yejin Lee

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the effects of wearing compression pants of varying pressure levels on the wearer’s attention/concentration to investigate the appropriate…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the effects of wearing compression pants of varying pressure levels on the wearer’s attention/concentration to investigate the appropriate level of compression for sport performance and confirm whether this methodology is feasible as a means of evaluating sportswear functionality.

Design/methodology/approach

After wearing compression pants of varying compression levels, spontaneous potentials were analyzed by calculating the spontaneous electroencephalography (EEG) indices: relative low beta (RLB) power spectrum ((12~15 Hz)/(4~50 Hz)), relative mid beta (RMB) power spectrum ((15~20 Hz)/(4~50 Hz)), and ratio of sensory motor rhythm to theta waves ((12~15 Hz)/(4~8 Hz)). The activation of brain waves was mapped and visualized from EEG data using BioScan-Map (BioBrain Inc., Daejeon, Korea).

Findings

The influence of pressure levels on brain waves was confirmed: RLB power, RMB power and RST varied by experimental clothing. CP3, the compression pants that applied moderate pressure (1.57±0.41 kPa), was associated with a relatively higher level of attention/concentration – i.e., the results confirmed that sports compression pants that apply approximately 1.0~2.0 kPa to the area between the thighs and shins are improve attention/concentration. It was further confirmed that EEG is a useful tool for evaluating the psychophysiological effects of functional apparel.

Originality/value

Unlike preceding studies that considered only alpha waves and the effects of clothing on comfort, this study investigated the influence of compression garments on attention/concentration.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 July 2020

Haixia Li, Yongrong Wang and Zhian Chen

Graduated compression shaping pants (GCSPs) are shapewears sharing the same action mechanisms as medical compression stockings (MCSs), setting four stages of pressure on lower…

239

Abstract

Purpose

Graduated compression shaping pants (GCSPs) are shapewears sharing the same action mechanisms as medical compression stockings (MCSs), setting four stages of pressure on lower limbs that gradually decreasing from the ankle to the thigh root. They are claimed to be able to not only shaping bodies but also promoting blood circulation in legs. However, there are few studies on whether GCSPs perform the advertised functions and how effective GCSPs could be. The purpose of this paper is to explore and evaluate the pressure distribution and body-shaping effectivity of GCSPs.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors first select two graduated compression shaping pants (GCSPs-A, GCSPs-B) and a pair of professional shaping pants as the Controls. Then objective pressure test and 3D body scanning test are conducted. Finally, the pressure distribution and body-shaping effectivity are demonstrated by ORIGIN and MATLAB, compared with controls.

Findings

GCSPs-A perform significant body-shaping effectivity at the calf, thigh and thigh root, which are less effective than the Controls. The body-shaping effectivity of GCSPs-B is predicted weaker than GCSPs-A at the calf and thigh, while better at the thigh root. Both GCSPs-A and GCSPs-B show gradual pressure, which could be classified into Class I or II of MCSs. Comprehensively, GCSPs-A are superior than GCSPs-B.

Originality/value

In this paper, authors evaluate the pressure distribution and body-shaping effectivity of GCSPs, which could provide guidance for enterprises to further optimize and produce GCSPs, performing better functions that meet consumers' needs better.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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