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Article
Publication date: 19 February 2024

Sabiha Sezgin Bozok

Titanium(IV) oxide nanoparticles (TiO2 NP) were deposited to cotton denim fabrics using a self-crosslinking acrylate – a polymer dispersion to extend the lifetime of the products…

Abstract

Purpose

Titanium(IV) oxide nanoparticles (TiO2 NP) were deposited to cotton denim fabrics using a self-crosslinking acrylate – a polymer dispersion to extend the lifetime of the products. This study aims to determine the optimum conditions to increase abrasion resistance, to provide self-cleaning properties of denim fabrics and to examine the effects of these applications on other physical properties.

Design/methodology/approach

The denim samples were first treated with nonionic surfactant to increase their wettability. Three different amounts of the polymer dispersion and two different pH levels were selected for the experimental design. The finishing process was applied to the fabrics with pad-dry-cure method.

Findings

The presence of the coatings and the adhesion of TiO2 NPs to the surfaces were confirmed by scanning electron microscope and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy analysis. It was ascertained that the most appropriate self-crosslinking acrylate amount and ambient pH level is 10 mL and “2”, respectively, for providing increased abrasion resistance (2,78%) and enhanced self-cleaning properties (363,4%) in the denim samples. The coating reduced the air permeability and softness of the denim samples. Differential scanning calorimetry and thermogravimetry analysis results showed that the treatments increased the crystallization temperatures and melting enthalpy values of the denim samples. Based on the thermal test results, it is clear that mass loss of the denim samples at 370°C decreased as the amount of self-crosslinking acrylate increased (at pH 3).

Originality/value

This study helped us to find out optimum amount of self-crosslinking acrylate and proper pH level for enhanced self-cleaning and abrasion strength on denim fabrics. With this finishing process, an environmentally friendly and long-life denim fabric was designed.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 August 2023

Berihun Bizuneh and Tesfu Kifle

The main purpose of this paper is to identify, screen and prioritize customer requirements (CRs) for men’s denim jeans. Moreover, the effect of demographic factors on the primary…

Abstract

Purpose

The main purpose of this paper is to identify, screen and prioritize customer requirements (CRs) for men’s denim jeans. Moreover, the effect of demographic factors on the primary evaluation criteria has been examined.

Design/methodology/approach

The study was initiated by the growing complaints about denim jeans products of a local manufacturing company. First, 24 CRs were identified from the literature and customer complaints. Then, a survey was conducted to rate the identified CRs and solicit more CRs through closed-ended and open-ended questions, respectively. From the survey, 368 usable responses were collected while the participants were shopping in 14 local retail shops. After analyzing the data using factor analysis, univariate and multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA), and content analysis, the resulting 15 criteria were prioritized by experts’ pairwise comparisons employing the fuzzy analytic hierarchy process (AHP).

Findings

Factor analysis extracted six components (primary criteria) including design cues, pocket design, comfort, size and fit, fashionability, and extrinsic cues from the CRs included in the closed-ended questions. MANOVA showed that age and frequency of purchasing denim jeans significantly affected the primary criteria, while educational level and frequency of wearing denim jeans did not. The weights from the fuzzy AHP revealed that colour fastness, price, durability, fabric weight, workmanship, side pocket design and fit as the most important CRs. Moreover, consumers preferred regular fit, stitched round side pockets, patch back pockets and stretchable denim fabric.

Research limitations/implications

The limitations of the study are discussed in the body of the paper in Section 7.

Originality/value

The paper presents exploratory findings on denim jeans evaluation criteria in a developing country’s context. Moreover, the application of fuzzy AHP for prioritizing denim jeans’ CRs is unique.

Details

International Journal of Quality & Reliability Management, vol. 41 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0265-671X

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 March 2022

Abenezer Fikre Hailemariam and Nuredin Muhammed

The purpose of this study is to investigate the mechanical properties of denim fabrics constructed from ring-spun and open-end rotor spun yarns.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to investigate the mechanical properties of denim fabrics constructed from ring-spun and open-end rotor spun yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

Yarns of 10s Ne count using cotton fibers were spun using the ring and open-end rotor spinning technologies. The yarns were used to produce a denim fabric on an air-jet loom with a 3/1 twill weave structure. Mechanical tests – tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance and pilling resistance – of denim fabrics were evaluated. The test results were analyzed using analysis of variance with the help of Software Package for Social Sciences.

Findings

Denim fabrics made by using ring-spun yarns exhibited better tensile and tear strength properties than denim fabrics made by using open-end rotor spun yarns. On the contrary, denim produced using open-end rotor yarns have better abrasion resistance, pilling resistance and air permeability than those produced using ring-spun yarns.

Originality/value

Both spinning techniques have a significant influence on the properties of denim fabrics. Whenever better tensile and tear strength is required, it is better to use ring-spun yarns, while if the requirement is better abrasion resistance and pilling resistance with high air permeability, then open-end rotor spun yarns shall be used.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 16 June 2022

Fareha Asim and Farhana Naeem

The textile sector is moving towards new technologies, where the application of nanotechnology is offering fabrics with multifunctional properties making fabric odourless…

Abstract

Purpose

The textile sector is moving towards new technologies, where the application of nanotechnology is offering fabrics with multifunctional properties making fabric odourless, hydrophobic, durable and self-cleaning. This aim of this research is to investigate self-cleaning ability of denim fabric with the application of zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) synthesized naturally. The primary focus of this investigation is achieving sustainability mark through green synthesis of ZnO NPs.

Design/methodology/approach

In this analysis, ZnO NPs being one of the metal oxides exhibiting self-cleaning, UV-protective and anti-microbial properties were synthesized naturally using Azadirachta Indica leaves. The prepared NPs were characterized by using X-ray diffraction and scanning electron microscopy analyses confirming their size and crystalline structure. Different formulations were investigated with varying concentration of zinc oxide and auxiliaries onto the denim fabric using pad-dry-cure application technique.

Findings

XRD analysis confirmed the successful green synthesis of ZnO NPs. SEM analysis revealed the homogeneous and hexagonal wurtzite NPs deposition on the denim fabric. It was ascertained that with 5% ZnO NPs and 7% Binder concentrations, the formulation resulted in a smooth and even layer on the denim fabric maintaining the appearance and feel at the same time offers appreciable grading (Grade 4) against the stringent stains of Ketchup, Coffee, Grape and Orange Juice with insignificant change in tensile strength.

Originality/value

In this study, self-cleaning attributes of denim fabric with zinc oxide nano formulations of different composition was studied to achieve promising functional properties in a single step not studied earlier.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 52 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 September 2024

Faouzi Khedher and Boubaker Jaouachi

The purpose of this work is to study the relationship between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (TS), breaking strength (BS) and cloth’s dimensional…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this work is to study the relationship between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (TS), breaking strength (BS) and cloth’s dimensional stability (Sh), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Hence, we select the most interrelationships using the principal component analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the treatments of finishing garments during washing are the important parameters influencing the cloth’s dimensional and the fabric’s mechanical properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their influence on shrinkage. The polynomial regression model relating the tear strength and the shrinkage of denim fabric proves the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.

Design/methodology/approach

To investigate the matter, the type of washing, and their contributions to shrinkage, four types of fabrics manufactured into pants were used. These fabrics differ not only by their basis weights (medium and heavy weight fabrics) but, also by their compositions (within and without elastane) and their thread count (warp and weft yarn count, twist and density. To evaluate significant results, a factorial design analysis based on an experimental design was established. The choice of these treatments, as well as their design mode, led us to make a complete factorial experimental design.

Findings

According to the results, the prediction of shrinkage behavior as a function of the process washing input parameters seems significant and useful in our experimental design of interest. As a consequence, it was also concluded that after these input parameters, we can find the relationship between the shrinkage (Shwarp and Shweft) and the mechanical properties such as tear strength (TSwarp and TSweft) and breaking strength (BSwarp and BSweft). Thanks to the PCA, it is very easy to reduce the number of the influent output parameters, and knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of mechanical properties knowing the shrinkage of denim garment, during the process of washing seems successful and can undoubtedly help industrial to minimize the poor workmanship of the finishing quality.

Practical implications

This study is very interesting for finishing denim garments. The shrinkage is very important for correcting measures in sewing, considering that a high shrinkage may cause the cancellation of the fit from the client. This type of defect cannot be repaired in the major part of the cases and causes a big loss for the company, moreover the mechanical properties. For this reason, analyzing the value of shrinkage before starting the production cycle is of great importance to apply the right balance to the pattern. The model of predicting the mechanical properties behaviors as a function of the shrinkage denim garment leads manufacturers to eliminate the test of mechanical properties that remain as destructive tests. Moreover, according to the results obtained, it may be concluded that prediction is still accurate through the shrinkage test which is an inevitable test. Even though, these results can bring a huge gain for the garment wash industries.

Originality/value

This work presents the first study predicting a relationship between the mechanical properties and denim garment shrinkage, applying the PCA technique to minimize the all-output parameters that are not significant or correlated with each other. Besides, it deals with the relationship developed between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (TS), breaking strength (BS) and cloth’s dimensional stability (Sh), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Moreover, it is notable to mention that the originality of this study is to let to the garment wash industries to save in production time of orders and also in quality.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 3 May 2024

Changhyun (Lyon) Nam, Mitchell Lewis Stephenson, Chunhui Xiang and Eulanda Sanders

This study aimed to compare the performance of sustainable shoes made with bacterial cellulosic composite and commercial leather shoes using an experimental research design. The…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aimed to compare the performance of sustainable shoes made with bacterial cellulosic composite and commercial leather shoes using an experimental research design. The two specific research objectives were: (1) to examine the basic material properties of multi-layered bacterial cellulosic materials (MBC), which include green tea-based cellulosic (GBC) mats, hemp fabrics, and denim fabrics, in comparison with those of two-layered leathers (MCP) consisting of calf-skin and pig-skin – commonly used in shoe manufacturing; and (2) to explore wearers’ performance in the two types of shoes by assessing quantitative kinematic and kinetic parameters of lower body movements.

Design/methodology/approach

This study focused on assessing the basic materials testing and performance of sustainable shoes through a biomechanical approach, in contrast to commercially available leather shoes, through human wear trials. In this study, green tea-based cellulosic (GBC) mats were developed using the optimal combination of ingredients for cellulose growth. Subsequently, the GBC, denim fabric (100% cotton), and 100% hemp fabric were combined to create multi-layered bacterial cellulosic materials (MBC) as an alternative to leather. Additionally, calf-skin and pig-skin leathers were utilized to produce a commercially available two-layered leather (MCP), commonly employed in shoe manufacturing. 37 of the 42 human subjects who participated in wear testing were collected. A paired t-test was conducted to determine whether significant mean differences existed between the two shoe types, a paired t-test was conducted.

Findings

To develop a biodegradable and compostable material that could be used as a leather alternative for the footwear industry, we proposed MBC and examined its properties compared with those of MCP, a product often used when making shoes. These findings confirmed the similar properties of MBC and MCP from the material testing and the possibility of using a men’s sustainable shoe prototype as a leather alternative, in terms of kinematics and kinetics.

Practical implications

The new multi-layered bacterial cellulosic materials (MBC) could be an alternative to commercial leathers such as innovative sustainable material construction, advanced design, and advanced techniques to optimize the overall performance of sustainable footwear.

Originality/value

Investigating the integration of smart textile technologies, ergonomic design principles, and personalized customization will contribute to developing MBC and making sustainable shoes using MBC compared with commercial leather shoes. This study provides valuable insights into further refinement and innovation in the sustainable footwear industry.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Abstract

Details

Threaded Harmony: A Sustainable Approach to Fashion
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-83608-152-4

Article
Publication date: 17 April 2024

Quratulain Mohtashim, Salma Farooq and Fareha Asim

The application of indigo dyes in the denim industries has been criticised due to the introduction of non-renewable oxidation products into the environment. Previous studies have…

Abstract

Purpose

The application of indigo dyes in the denim industries has been criticised due to the introduction of non-renewable oxidation products into the environment. Previous studies have investigated that reducing sugars can be used as green alternatives to sodium dithionite in the indigo dyeing of cotton fabric owing to their reduced and stable redox potential in the dye bath. The purpose of this study was to dye denim cotton fabric with indigo dye using various reducing sugars and alkalis. The use of sucrose and potassium hydroxide (KOH) for indigo dyeing has been explored for the first time.

Design/methodology/approach

A mixed factorial design with four variables including alkali, pH, number of dips and type of reducing sugar at different levels was studied to identify a significant correlation between the effect of these variables on the colour strength and fastness properties of the dyeings.

Findings

Investigations were made to examine the significant factors and interactions of the selected responses in the eco-friendly dyeing method. This process has the potential to reduce the load of sulphite and sulphate generated in the dyebath due to the use of a conventional reducing agent, sodium dithionite. The colour strength of the dyeing reduced with fructose was found to be better than other reducing sugars and significantly influenced by the number of dips, pH levels and the interaction between pH and reducing sugars. Using fructose for indigo dyeing with two dips at a pH of 11.5, using KOH as an alkali, results in higher colour strength values. The fastness properties of the indigo-dyed sample with reducing sugars ranging from fair to good or good to excellent. Specifically, colour change receives a rating of grey scale 3–4, staining 4–5, dry rubbing 4 and light fastness 3–4. These assessments hold true across various factors such as the type of reducing sugar, alkali, pH and the number of dips. The optimised parameters leading to improved colour strength and fastness properties are also discussed.

Originality/value

This dyeing technique is novel and a green alternative to dithionite denim dyeing. This process is found to be useful for indigo dyeing of denim fabric leading to reduced and stable redox potential in the dyebath and acceptable colour strength of the dyed fabric.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 16 August 2024

Aixin Zhang, Wenli Deng, Qiuyang Li, Zilong Song and Guizhen Ke

This paper aims to demonstrate that, in line with the emerging trend of multifunctional yarn development, cotton yarn can effectively harness renewable solar energy to achieve…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to demonstrate that, in line with the emerging trend of multifunctional yarn development, cotton yarn can effectively harness renewable solar energy to achieve photothermal conversion and thermochromism. This innovation not only maintains the comfort associated with natural fiber cotton yarn but also enhances its ultraviolet (UV) light resistance.

Design/methodology/approach

In this work, 4% zirconium carbide (ZrC) and thermochromic powder were adhered to cotton yarn through polyurethane (PU) by sizing coating method. After sizing, the two cotton yarns are twisted by ring spinning to obtain composite yarns with photothermal conversion and thermochromic functions.

Findings

The yarn obtained by cotton/6%PU/8% thermochromic dye single yarn and cotton/6%PU/4% ZrC single yarn composite is the best match. After 5 min of infrared light, the temperature of the composite yarn rose to the maximum, increasing by 36.1°C. The ΔE* value before and after irradiation of infrared lamp is 26.565, which proves that the thermochromic function is good. The yarn dryness unevenness was significantly reduced by 27.2%. The composite yarn has a UPF value of up to 89.22, and its performance characteristics remain stable after 100 minutes of washing.

Originality/value

The composite yarn’s photothermal conversion and thermochromism functions are mutually reinforcing. Using sunlight can simultaneously achieve heating and discoloration effects without consuming additional energy. The cotton yarn used in this application is versatile, and suitable for a wide range of uses including clothing, temperature visualization detection and other scenarios.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 25 January 2024

Mehmet Küçük

Fabrics, which are one of the raw materials of the clothing industry, constitute approximately 40–45% of the total cost of an apparel product. Due to the labor-intensive nature of…

Abstract

Purpose

Fabrics, which are one of the raw materials of the clothing industry, constitute approximately 40–45% of the total cost of an apparel product. Due to the labor-intensive nature of this industry and failure to apply scientific methods along with the manufacturing processes, the wastes in the raw materials, including fabrics, become higher. Besides, quality deficiencies are encountered due to the same reasons. This study aims to determine the optimum total fabric layer height based on the fabric type during the cutting process with a straight knife cutting machine, which provided a decrease in the cutting errors.

Design/methodology/approach

Frequently used fabric types in an enterprise operating in organic cotton knitwear were listed. During the cutting tests, the straight knife cutting machine was used as the cutting device. The weight and thickness values of the fabrics were obtained to provide a comparison basis. Two different algorithms were created to evaluate the defective pieces according to fabric type, cutting height and error placement. Cutting resistances of these fabrics were also determined to evaluate the defect reasons. In the end, optimum total fabric layer count and total cutting height suggestions were proposed for each fabric type for a minimum cutting error.

Findings

At the end of this study, the error-free layers were identified per fabric type. At the same time, the optimum cutting height was suggested for each fabric basis. For 40/1 single jersey fabrics, the cutting height should be between 2.10 cm and 10.40 cm; for 30/1 single jersey fabrics, between 1.65 cm and 5.70 cm; for 20/1 single jersey fabrics, between 1.83 cm and 6.70 cm; for two-thread fleece fabrics, between 2.13 cm and 4.70 cm; and for three-thread fleece fabrics, between 0 cm and 4.90 cm.

Research limitations/implications

Within the scope of the study, since the products made of knitted fabric were produced more frequently and in large quantities, the study was carried out with 15 different types of knitted fabrics at 10 different layers. The same methods should be applied for woven, denim and nonwoven fabric types, which would shed light on the following studies.

Originality/value

Due to scarce research carried out on the cutting procedure of the clothing industry in regards to sustainability, this study aims to contribute to this area. The main difference between this study and the studies that mostly make mathematical predictions about the cutting procedure is that it is practice-oriented.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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