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Article
Publication date: 1 January 2000

Yi Li and Lei Yao

The aim of this paper is to provide a statistical review of the Chinese denim industry, which covers the following topics: Chinese production and production capacity of…

Abstract

The aim of this paper is to provide a statistical review of the Chinese denim industry, which covers the following topics: Chinese production and production capacity of denim yarns, fabrics and apparels; Chinese domestic consumption of denim yarns, fabrics and apparels; Chinese denim export to the USA, EEC and Hong Kong; and finally the geographic distribution of the Chinese denim industry — yarn production, fabric production and apparel production.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 4 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

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Article
Publication date: 2 November 2015

Mouna Gazzah, Boubaker Jaouachi, Laurence Schacher, Dominique Charles Adolphe and Faouzi Sakli

The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging ability. Hence, it attempts to carry out the significant inputs and outputs that have an influence on the bagging behaviors using the Principal Component Analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the Kawabata Evaluation System parameters such as the frictional characteristics, the bending, compression, tensile and shear parameters are investigated to propose a model highlighting and explaining their impacts on the different bagging properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their bagging properties using Taguchi experimental design. The linear regressive models prove the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.

Design/methodology/approach

To investigate the mechanical properties and their contributions on the bagging characteristics, some denim fabrics were collected and measured thanks to the Kawabata evaluation systems (KES-FB1, KES-FB2, KES-FB3 and KES-FB4). These bagging properties were further analyzed applying the method of PCA to acquire factor patterns that indicate the most important fabric properties for characterizing the bagging behaviors of different studied denim fabric samples. An experimental design type Taguchi was, hence, applied to improve the results. Regarding the obtained results, it may be concluded that the PCA method remained a powerful and flawless technique to select the main influential inputs and significant outputs, able to define objectively the bagging phenomenon and which should be considered from the next researches.

Findings

According to the results, there are good relationships between the Kawabata input parameters and the analyzed bagging properties of studied denim fabrics. Indeed, thanks to the PCA, it is probably easy to reduce the number of the influent parameters for three reasons. First, applying this technique of selection can help to select objectively the most influential inputs which affect enormously the bagged fabrics. Second, knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of denim fabric bagging seems fruitful and can undoubtedly help researchers explain widely this complex phenomenon. Third, regarding the findings mentioned, it seems that the prevention of this aesthetic phenomenon appearing in some specific zones of denim fabrics will be more and more accurate.

Practical implications

This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. Undoubtedly, the denim garments remained the largely used and consumed, hence, this particularity proves the necessity to study it in order to evaluate the bagging phenomenon which occurs as function of number of uses. Although it is fashionable to have bagging, the denim fabric remains, in contrast with the worsted ones, the most popular fabric to produce garments. Moreover, regarding this characteristic, the large uses and the acceptable value of denim fabrics, their aesthetic appearance behavior due to bagging phenomenon can be analyzed accurately because compared to worsted fabrics, they have a high value and the repetitive tests to investigate widely bagged zones may fall the industrial. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. This can help understanding why residual bagging behavior remained after garment uses due to the internal stress and excessive extensions. Regarding the selected influential inputs and outputs relative to bagging behaviors, there are some practical implications that have an impact on the industrial and researchers to study objectively the occurrence of this aesthetic phenomenon. Indeed, this study discusses the significance of the overall inputs; their contributions on the denim fabric bagged zones aims to prevent their ability to appear after uses. Moreover, the results obtained regarding the fabric mechanical properties can be useful to fabric and garment producers, designers and consumers in specifying and categorizing denim fabric products, insuring more denim cloth use and controlling fabric value. For applications where the subjective view of the consumer is of primary importance, the KES-FB system yields data that can be used for evaluating fabric properties objectively and prejudge the consumer satisfaction in viewpoint of the bagging ability. Therefore, this study shows that by measuring shear, tensile and frictional parameters of KES-FB, it may be possible to evaluate bagging properties. However, it highlights the importance and the significance of some inputs considered influential or the contrast (non-significant) in other researches.

Originality/value

This work presents the first study analyzing the bagged denim fabric applying the PCA technique to remove the all input parameters which are not significant. Besides, it deals with the relationship developed between the mechanical fabric properties (tensile, shear and frictional stresses) and the bagging properties behavior. To improve these obtained relationships, for the first time, the regression technique and experimental design type Taguchi analysis were both applied. Moreover, it is notable to mention that the originality of this study is to let researchers and industrials investigate the most influential inputs only which have a bearing on the bagging phenomenon.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 September 2001

Yi Li, Lei Yao and Richard M. Jones

As a world leader in the textiles and clothing trade, Hong Kong has played an important role in world denim products trade. To obtain a sound understanding of the current…

Abstract

As a world leader in the textiles and clothing trade, Hong Kong has played an important role in world denim products trade. To obtain a sound understanding of the current status and position of Hong Kong in the world denim trade, the authors carried out a comprehensive statistical survey of the Hong Kong denim industry. This paper reports detailed analyses on the production, sales and trade of denim products in Hong Kong. The analysis on trade covers imports, domestic exports and re‐exports of denim fabric and apparel products.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 5 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

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Article
Publication date: 11 February 2019

Selin Hanife Eryuruk

The main factors affecting consumers when selecting denim garments are aesthetic, appearance and fashion. Besides these factors, comfort and performance properties of the…

Abstract

Purpose

The main factors affecting consumers when selecting denim garments are aesthetic, appearance and fashion. Besides these factors, comfort and performance properties of the denim garments during usage are very important. The purpose of this paper is to determine the effects of different finishing processes on the performance properties of 100 percent cotton and 98 percent cotton+2 percent elastane denim fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

The research design for this study consists of experimental study. In order to evaluate the effects of finishing on the performance properties of fabrics, eight types of fabrics were selected for evaluation. Rigid, resin, bleaching and softening type fabrics with and without elastane were analyzed statistically.

Findings

The results obtained in the study clearly showed that the types of finishing and elastane fiber in the fabric structure had a significant influence on mechanical and comfort properties of denim fabrics.

Originality/value

As a result of the literature review, it was seen that there were limited studies concerning mechanical, functional and comfort properties of denim fabrics together. In this study, the effects of finishing processes on the tear strength, stiffness, drape, mechanical and thermal comfort characteristics were deeply evaluated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 3 September 2019

Selin Hanife Eryuruk

The liquid water and water vapour transfer properties of fabrics play an important and decisive role in determining thermal comfort properties of clothing systems. The…

Abstract

Purpose

The liquid water and water vapour transfer properties of fabrics play an important and decisive role in determining thermal comfort properties of clothing systems. The purpose of this paper is to analyse the effects of fabric composition (98 percent cotton–2 percent elastane and 100 percent cotton) and finishing treatments (rigid, resin, bleaching and softening) on the wicking, drying and water vapour permeability (WVP) properties of denim fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

The research design for this study consists of experimental study. Two fabric compositions (98 percent cotton–2 percent elastane and 100 percent cotton) and four finishing treatments (rigid, resin, bleaching and softening) were evaluated to see the effects of elastane and finishing treatments on wicking, drying and WVP properties of woven denim fabrics. Results were analysed statistically.

Findings

Experimental results showed that the transfer wicking, drying and WVP values of denim fabrics were significantly influenced by fabric weight, fibre composition and finishing treatments.

Practical implications

The wicking ability of sweat from the skin to the outer environment of a skin contact fabric layer is the primary requirement.

Originality/value

As a result of the literature review, it was seen that there are some studies in the literature about comfort properties of denim fabrics, but there is no study concerning the water vapour transmission, wicking and drying properties of denim fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 January 2006

Ayanna Card, Mary Ann Moore and Mary Ankeny

This paper reports on the effects of laundering on physical properties (pilling and edge abrasion) of washed denim fabrics.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper reports on the effects of laundering on physical properties (pilling and edge abrasion) of washed denim fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

Garment washed denim blue jeans were subjected to repeated launderings; the effects of the cycles on pilling and edge abrasion were determined. Data were collected by means of a laboratory experimental factorial design. Analysis of variance was used to determine significant differences in the three garment washed treatments; pre‐washed, stone washed and enzyme treated blue jeans. Duncan's test of multiple range determined the source of significance.

Findings

The pre‐washed jeans were more prone to pilling than the enzyme and stone washed jeans. On the other hand, the pre‐washed jeans experienced the least amount of edge abrasion while the stone washed experienced the most.

Practical implications

The results can be used by the denim garment manufacturers to design and engineer their products to suit the customer demands.

Originality/value

Jeans are an important part of a consumer's wardrobe and a large portion of denim garments are manufactured with some type of garment wash treatment. Results of this study will provide denim garment manufacturers with pilling and abrasion information regarding garment washing treatments to allow them to utilize the garment treatment that best meets their needs.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 18 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 5 June 2017

Ahmed Hala, Gozde Yurdabak Karaca, Esin Eren, Lutfi Oksuz, Ferhat Bozduman, Melek Kiristi, Ali Ihsan Komur, Ali Gulec and Aysegul Uygun Oksuz

The purpose of this paper was to investigate the effects of hydrochloric acid (HCl), hydrazine, methyl methacrylate, styrene and hexamethyldisiloxane by radio-frequency…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper was to investigate the effects of hydrochloric acid (HCl), hydrazine, methyl methacrylate, styrene and hexamethyldisiloxane by radio-frequency (rf) plasma graftings on surface properties of wool and denim fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

During plasma treatments, processing time was varied under optimized plasma conditions (50 W, rf: 13.56 MHz). All fabrics were comprehensively investigated by means of scanning electron microscopy-energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy and contact angle measurements.

Findings

The experimental data shows that the rf-plasma processing has important effect on the wettability properties of wool and denim fabrics. The results indicated that HCl plasma treatment significantly improves the hydrophilicity of wool and denim fabrics.

Originality/value

The research on wool and denim fabric treatment by plasma is original.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 21 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 1 May 1997

B.K. Behera, S. Chand, T.G. Singh and P. Rathee

Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread …

Abstract

Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread ‐ with all possible ticket numbers, to examine the interaction of various fabric‐thread combinations. The sewing thread performance in terms of seam efficiency, pucker, slippage and needle cutting index was determined and the results were analysed in the light of the dimensional and mechanical properties of the fabric, thread and seam itself. Corespun threads were found to be most suitable from a seam efficiency point of view. However, other sewing parameters such as pucker, slippage and damage were adversely affected by sewing with corespun threads. Tensile properties of fabrics and threads were found to be the most important factors for sewability. Breaking strength and elongation of the fabric and sewing thread had an excellent correlation with seam efficiency. Cotton threads were found to be most suitable for sewing denim from a seam puckering point of view. On the other hand, polyester threads were more prone to develop seam pucker. Corespun thread was the greatest yarn damager compared to cotton and polyester threads. Fabric cover factor and sewing thread diameter were highly correlated with the needle cutting index.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 9 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 2 November 2015

Mouna Gazzah, Boubaker Jaouachi and Faouzi Sakli

The purpose of this paper is to optimize the frictional input parameters related to the yarn and woven fabric samples. Indeed, using metaheuristic techniques for…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to optimize the frictional input parameters related to the yarn and woven fabric samples. Indeed, using metaheuristic techniques for optimization, it helps to attempt the best quality appearance of garment, by analysing their effects and relationships with the bagging behaviour of tested fabrics before and after bagging test. Using metaheuristic techniques allows us to select widely the minimal residual bagging properties and the optimized inputs to adjust them for this goal.

Design/methodology/approach

The metaheuristic methods were applied and discussed. Hence, the genetic algorithms (GA) and ant colony optimization (ACO) technique results are compared to select the best residual bagging behaviour and their correspondent parameters. The statistical analysis steps were implemented using Taguchi experimental design thanks to Minitab 14 software. The modelling methodology analysed in this paper deals with the linear regression method application and analysis to prepare to the optimization steps.

Findings

The regression results are essential for evaluate the effectiveness of the relationships founded between inputs and outputs parameters and for their optimizations in the design of interest.

Practical implications

This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. Undoubtedly, the denim garments remained the largely used and consumed, hence, this particularity proves the necessity to study it in order to optimize the bagging phenomenon which occurs as function of number of uses. Although it is fashionable to have bagging, the denim fabric remains, in contrast with the worsted ones, the most popular fabric to produce garments. Moreover, regarding this characteristic, the large uses and the acceptable value of denim fabrics, their aesthetic appearance behaviour due to bagging phenomenon can be analysed and optimized accurately because compared to worsted fabrics, they have a high value and the repetitive tests to investigate widely bagged zones can fall the industrial. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. This can help to understand why residual bagging behaviour remained after garment uses due to the internal stress and excessive extensions.

Originality/value

Until now, there is no work dealing with the optimization of bagging behaviour using metaheuristic techniques. Indeed, all investigations are focused on the evaluation and theoretical modelling based on the multi linear regression analysis. It is notable that the metaheuristic techniques such as ACO and GA are used to optimize some difficult problems but not yet in the textile field excepting some studies using the GA. Besides, there is no sufficiently information to evaluate, predict and optimize the effect of the yarn-to-yarn friction as well as metal-to-yarn one on the residual bagging behaviour. Several and different denim fabrics within their different characteristics are investigated to widen the experimental analysis and thus to generalize the results in the experimental design of interest.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 6 July 2012

Kavisha Jegethesan, Joanne N. Sneddon and Geoffrey N. Soutar

The purpose of this paper is to explore the importance of functional, hedonistic and ethical attributes of denim jeans attributes and the trade‐offs young adult Australian…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to explore the importance of functional, hedonistic and ethical attributes of denim jeans attributes and the trade‐offs young adult Australian consumers made within these attributes when making a purchase decision.

Design/methodology/approach

A two‐stage mixed‐method approach was used to explore the importance of denim jeans attributes and the trade‐offs made within these attributes. First, focus groups were used to identify attributes that were important to young Australian adult consumers. In the second stage, conjoint analysis was used to estimate the relative importance of the product and ethical attributes that were identified in the focus groups and the trade‐offs made within this attribute set.

Findings

Focus group participants identified style, price, brand, country of origin and ethics as attributes that they used to evaluate denim jeans. In the conjoint analysis respondents identified price as having the highest relative importance, followed by brand, country of origin, style and ethical attributes. It was clear multiple attributes were valued and, although the ethical attributes that were included were not as important as garment attributes, respondents appeared to make trade‐offs between garment and ethical attributes when purchasing denim jeans.

Originality/value

The paper identifies attributes of denim jeans that are valued by young Australian adult consumers. That product attributes were more important than ethical attributes suggests a focus on ethical credentials may not be effective. Denim jeans are more likely to be purchased by young Australian adults if they are reasonably priced, made in Italy and have a designer brand.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 16 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

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