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Article
Publication date: 13 February 2023

Shahzad Uddin, Md Shoaib Ahmed and Khandakar Shahadat

This study aims to contribute to the debate on the efficacy of softer regulations to prevent violations of workers’ rights in the global clothing supply chain.

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Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to contribute to the debate on the efficacy of softer regulations to prevent violations of workers’ rights in the global clothing supply chain.

Design/methodology/approach

This study draws on value trap and adverse incorporations as a theoretical lens to understand the reasons behind the continued violations of workers’ rights. The empirical findings are based on an analysis of 24 semi-structured interviews with workers and owners. Extensive documentary evidence to track the plight of workers in Bangladeshi clothing factories during the pandemic.

Findings

The study demonstrates how imbalances in supply chain relationships allow retailers to take advantage of the pandemic. The authors find that some retailers worsened the working conditions by cancelling orders, demanding discounts on old orders and forcing suppliers to agree to a lower price for new orders. Large brands and retailers’ responses to the COVID-19 pandemic remind us that softer regulations, such as third-party audits, are likely to be ineffective given the power imbalance at the heart of the supply chain.

Practical implications

The study presents a case for regulatory frameworks and intense stakeholder activism to encourage large retailers and brands to behave responsibly. This is especially important when a supply chain is value-trapped and workers are adversely incorporated and unprotected.

Originality/value

Drawing on studies on adverse incorporations, value-trapped supply chains and the plight of workers during the COVID-19 pandemic, the study offers a broader understanding of the continued violation of workers’ rights and the efficacy of softer regulations.

Article
Publication date: 26 July 2013

Ruchi K. Tyagi and Nijolė Vasiljevienė

The purpose of this paper is to analyse how the government, Lelija management and society realized the fact that being a global organization unethical labor practices will reflect…

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Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to analyse how the government, Lelija management and society realized the fact that being a global organization unethical labor practices will reflect badly on human resources management, the company, and the reputation of the country as a whole.

Design/methodology/approach

In the analysis of social facts, knowledge also consists of already existing ethical norms and values derived from practice, definitely designated, explicitly articulated and unambiguously evaluated. It especially applies to business, professional, and organizational practice. In case analyses, the authors usually deal with events that are presented from a certain viewpoint. However, it is essential to follow the objectivized knowledge and articulated standards. As it will be discussed later, the major parts of information sources for the Lelija's case are competing daily newspapers of Lithuania, their web sites.

Findings

Social realities associated with employment are relations between employers and employees, a labor agreement, working conditions, tasks and compensation for its fulfilment. Irrespective of contradictions of the subjective interests and opinions that accompanied the reality of poor working conditions at Lelija, media outlets have provided a verifiable information about violations of labor laws and payment of fines as restitution.

Originality/value

The present case is prepared for classroom teaching since resort to the journalist material is not very suitable for investigative analysis of cases. It is important to distinguish between facts, evaluation and real circumstances where the facts emerged. This factor is well taken care by the authors while preparing the case.

Details

Competitiveness Review: An International Business Journal, vol. 23 no. 4/5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1059-5422

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 17 April 2018

Yousuf Kamal

This chapter investigates the perceptions of social audit within the context of the garment companies of Bangladesh. The chapter highlights two recent incidents that claimed the…

Abstract

Purpose

This chapter investigates the perceptions of social audit within the context of the garment companies of Bangladesh. The chapter highlights two recent incidents that claimed the lives of about 1,300 garment workers in Bangladesh. Based on the fact that Western clothing brands use social audits before sourcing their products from Bangladesh, this chapter investigates if any real change happens as a result of the information provided in the social audit reports.

Methodology/approach

The insights were gathered through conducting personal interviews with managers of social audit firms, corporate managers and various stakeholders of the textile and garment companies of Bangladesh. This chapter used the accountability theory to understand the perceptions of social audit.

Findings

The chapter finds that different stakeholders have different perspectives regarding social audits. The high-profile catastrophes within the supply chain garment factories of Bangladesh provided evidence that social audits did not help prevent such catastrophes in a different socio-economic context. The results have revealed stakeholder dissatisfaction with the procedures and content of social audits. It also finds that there is an expectation gap between the preparers and users of social audit reports.

Practical implications

The insights provided in this chapter would benefit garment manufacturers of developing countries and relevant stakeholders to demonstrate more accountability while conducting a social audit.

Originality/value

This is the first known chapter investigating stakeholders’ perceptions of social audit within the context of a developing country. More importantly, it focuses on responsible corporate behaviour in a socially sensitive industry.

Book part
Publication date: 9 May 2023

Semra Ay and Kübra Canlı

This study aims at investigating creative labor and its production process in late capitalism. With technological convergence and digitalization, there emerged an information…

Abstract

This study aims at investigating creative labor and its production process in late capitalism. With technological convergence and digitalization, there emerged an information society and information economy. In the processes and procedures of this era, conditions and climate of working areas and labor processes directly based on innovation and creativity have undergone radical transformations. Also, it has become indispensable to scrutinize the concepts such as immaterial labor, autonomy, and subjectivity. So, this study focuses on Turkish freelance illustrators to highlight their production, autonomy, and value in transformed time and space. It aims to establish a better understanding of the Turkish freelancer illustrators’ valorization of labor and economic insecurity in the digital era of creative industries by using the techniques of open-ended questions and online semi-structured interviews with 12 freelance illustrators. Therefore, this study traces the question of how the working processes and work ethos of digital career fields in the creative industry are evaluated from the perspective of illustrators. It cannot be overlooked that this new working ethos allows them to work as self-employed, offering through non-contractual relationships, and non-standard contracts with the clients which give them more flexibility and autonomy as an artist to plan their own creative production processes. It is also clear that illustrators who adapted themselves to produce in a transformed time–space are aware of the difficulty in measuring and valorizing the value of the creative and emotional labor they put to work. In such a case, it can be said that illustrators, who see themselves as both an employer and employee at the same time, position themselves beyond the distinctions of blue collar and gray collar and blur the boundaries in organizational hierarchies.

Details

Management and Organizational Studies on Blue- and Gray-collar Workers: Diversity of Collars
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-80455-754-9

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 November 2023

Shobod Deba Nath, Gabriel Eweje and Suborna Barua

The purpose of this paper is to investigate why multi-tier apparel suppliers integrate social sustainability practices into their supply chains and what barriers these suppliers…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate why multi-tier apparel suppliers integrate social sustainability practices into their supply chains and what barriers these suppliers encounter while embedding social sustainability practices.

Design/methodology/approach

This study employs a qualitative research design, drawing on data from semi-structured interviews with 46 owners and managers from 33 multi-tier apparel suppliers in Bangladesh, an important outsourcing hub for the global apparel industry. To corroborate research findings, the views of owners and managers were triangulated by further interviewing 11 key representatives of institutional actors such as third-party auditors, a donor agency, industry associations, regulatory agencies and a non-governmental organisation (NGO).

Findings

The authors' findings suggest a range of divergent institutional drivers and barriers – coercive, mimetic and normative – that determine the implementation of multi-tier suppliers' social sustainability practices. The key reported drivers were buyers' requirements, external stakeholders' expectations, top management commitment and competition. Conversely, cost and resource concerns and gaps in the regulatory framework were identified as key social sustainability implementation barriers. In particular, owners and managers of second-tier and third-tier supplier firms experienced more internal barriers such as cost and resource concerns than external barriers such as gaps in values, learning and commitment (i.e. compromise for mutual benefit and non-disclosure of non-compliance) that impeded effective social sustainability implementation.

Research limitations/implications

Social sustainability in supply chain management has received significant attention from academics, business practitioners, governments, NGOs and supranational organisations. However, limited attention has been paid to investigating the drivers and barriers for social sustainability implementation from a developing country's multi-tier supplier perspective. The authors' research has addressed this knowledge gap.

Practical implications

The evidence from the authors' study provides robust support for key assumptions of institutional theory and has useful implications for both managers and policy-makers.

Originality/value

The authors' study contributes to the embryonic research stream of socially sustainable multi-tier supply chain management by connecting it to the application of institutional theory in a challenging institutional context.

Details

The International Journal of Logistics Management, vol. 35 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0957-4093

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 31 October 2008

Ulf Elg, Pervez N. Ghauri and Veronika Tarnovskaya

The purpose is to investigate how a retailer identifies critical network actors and gains their support when entering an emerging market. and to examine the role of a firm's…

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Abstract

Purpose

The purpose is to investigate how a retailer identifies critical network actors and gains their support when entering an emerging market. and to examine the role of a firm's relationships with different types of actors on the new market.

Design/methodology/approach

The study is of an exploratory nature, and based on an inductive and qualitative research method. A case study of IKEA's entry into Russia and China was conducted.

Findings

It is argued that IKEA's entry into China and Russia was successful because of its dynamic utilization of matching and networking capabilities. The study explains how the support of relationships with, for example, political actors, interest groups and media supported the entry and the development of a positive consumer image.

Research limitations/implications

This is a qualitative, in depth study and future research is needed in order to test the generalizability of the proposed framework and models.

Practical implications

The paper shows how retail managers can generate the support of different types of actors and relationships when entering new markets.

Originality/value

Traditionally consumer product firms' entry to new markets is regarded as a function of dealing with environmental, cultural and legal differences, and adapting products and strategies accordingly. This paper extends understanding by showing that matching and networking capabilities to mobilize resources, actors and activities on global, macro and micro levels are also critical components. It also relates the firm's business relationships with relationships to socio‐political actors on the new market.

Details

International Marketing Review, vol. 25 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0265-1335

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 June 2021

Stephen Brammer, Giulio Nardella and Irina Surdu

This paper aims to put forward a definition of corporate social irresponsibility (CSI) which is relevant to the study of complex organizations and in particular, the multinational…

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Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to put forward a definition of corporate social irresponsibility (CSI) which is relevant to the study of complex organizations and in particular, the multinational enterprise (MNE). This paper then offers a framework as a foundation to discuss the institutional complexity of CSI to aid international business (IB) scholars, practitioners and policymakers achieve a clearer understanding of the mechanisms that may penalize and subsequently deter MNE irresponsibility.

Design/methodology/approach

In presenting the approaches taken by social regulation researchers and IB policy scholars to understand MNE irresponsibility, this paper proposes a definition of CSI and explicates the various mechanisms associated with deterring MNEs from behaving irresponsibly.

Findings

Therefore, how can MNEs be deterred from behaving irresponsibly? To further the research agenda concerning CSI in IB, far less common are a definition of CSI relevant to the complex IB context; and a framework that explicates both the legal and social components of CSI, particularly as they unfold in a complex, diverse and often divergent institutional landscape. Overcoming these two primary obstacles is important because when complexities associated with CSI emerge, researchers need to be able to ascertain and expound upon what they are observing so that comparisons can be made and more MNE CSI research can be accrued over time.

Research limitations/implications

To help the development of future research, we offered a more precise definition of CSI, one which is more relevant to the study of the MNE and the complex contemporary IB environment. By embracing complexities, this paper also outlines an institutional complexity approach, one which highlights both the role of formal and informal regulatory institutions. Though IB has traditionally focused on the role of formal regulation, there is much more to be unearthed by exploring the additional and concurrent influence of social regulatory institutions.

Practical implications

There is a high level of heterogeneity in the motivations and modes used by MNEs to enter international markets, which likely influence efforts made by these firms to adapt to different types of formal and social institutional pressures. When firms invest significantly in a market, they have a greater economic dependence in that market and institutions have a greater opportunity to exert pressures. For instance, foreign direct investment requires a higher level of (longer-term) commitment, transfer of capital, exchange of expertise and learning, meaning that firms depend much more on local authorities to perform in the market and accomplish their goals.

Social implications

Enabled by new technologies and, particularly, social media platforms, stakeholders can now engage in organized forms of regulatory activities, as is evident in the lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, queer, black lives matter and gender equality social activist movements. Through prominent collective actions, the impacts of globally organized social movements may be increasingly non-location bound, placing MNE managers at the heart of new challenges and opportunities to engage with global stakeholders. Infomediaries such as the press, have always been of historical importance, due to their role in shaping stakeholder expectations and opinions of the firm and thus, the reputation and legitimacy of that firm.

Originality/value

This study enriches the understanding of what CSI is, why we are likely to observe it in practice and how it affects MNEs. This paper offers a definition of CSI that is sufficiently nuanced to capture the complexity of the contemporary IB environment, as well as a framework that, this paper proposes, presents a clearer understanding of the institutional mechanisms that may deter MNEs from behaving irresponsibly. By encouraging scholars to examine the institutional complexity of MNE CSI, the paper hopes to contribute toward building a bridge which connects the IB policy and social regulation research streams.

Article
Publication date: 14 March 2016

Alessandro Da Giau, Laura Macchion, Federico Caniato, Maria Caridi, Pamela Danese, Rinaldo Rinaldi and Andrea Vinelli

The purpose of this paper is to examine which environmental and social sustainability practices companies in the Italian fashion industry adopt and how these companies communicate…

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Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to examine which environmental and social sustainability practices companies in the Italian fashion industry adopt and how these companies communicate their sustainability commitment through their corporate websites.

Design/methodology/approach

The multiple case studies approach was selected and the practices of 12 companies in the Italian fashion industry were investigated.

Findings

The findings showed that four different approaches in the field of sustainability practices and web-based communication are available within the Italian fashion industry (i.e. low commitment, high commitment, low disclosure, high marketing) by highlighting the alignment (i.e. fit or misfit) among these dimensions and by discussing the practices as well as the drivers/barriers of each approach.

Originality/value

The paper contributes to the literature by deepening the understanding of both the environmental and social dimensions of the sustainability issue. Moreover, the work investigates the relationship between sustainability practices and web-based sustainability communication, a topic that has not yet been addressed in the current literature.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, vol. 20 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 24 August 2022

Fabian Maximilian Johannes Teichmann and Chiara Wittmann

Through the lens of ethical appreciation, this paper aims to discuss what it means for a company to claim taking responsibility for its supply chain and whether this is a…

Abstract

Purpose

Through the lens of ethical appreciation, this paper aims to discuss what it means for a company to claim taking responsibility for its supply chain and whether this is a reasonable demand to make by corporations.

Design/methodology/approach

The place of ethics in economic and legislation is not selfevident. The intersection of ethics and economics through the topic of supply chains is approached by breaking down, respectively, the integral features of supply chains and the ethical considerations in compliance regulations.

Findings

The transnational nature of global supply chains, the depth of manufacturing tiers and the power asymmetries between buyer and seller are some of the fundamental sticking points in dissecting corporate social responsibility.

Originality/value

This paper uses a unique parallel perspective of the broad ethical concerns, which have developed under the umbrella term of responsibility, as well as the finer ethical details which are integral to supply chains as international structures of dependency.

Details

Journal of Financial Crime, vol. 30 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1359-0790

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 April 1993

Mike Parker and Jane Slaughter

Total quality management (TQM) is usually presented as a proven “win‐win” solution to the problems of private and public sector organizations. However, actual TQM programmes…

Abstract

Total quality management (TQM) is usually presented as a proven “win‐win” solution to the problems of private and public sector organizations. However, actual TQM programmes (under a variety of names) have a poor track record in their own terms and a strong faddish appearance. Despite the record and the sharp disagreements among quality gurus, unions are frequently presented with finished programmes requiring major union and employee concessions. Further, despite TQM’s claimed concern for the welfare, dignity, and creative input of employees, the reality of TQM is a model which places most employees last. Beneath the rhetoric of many TQM programmes is a system of management control and unappealing work organization best described as “Management‐by‐stress”. Unions need to understand the basic TQM themes, examine their impact on employees and their unions, and propose alternatives which start with basic social needs.

Details

Journal of Organizational Change Management, vol. 6 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0953-4814

Keywords

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