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The purpose of this study is to develop an easy-to-use CAD software for fashion flat sketch that can create new sketches by combining the flat sketch modules.

A sample fashion flat module database was constructed by performing a sketch modularization process as well as a morphological analysis. In addition, an automatic module assembling algorithm was developed to create new sketches using the database.

The module assembling algorithm enabled the users to make new fashion flat sketches by the combination of design modules in the database. The example database constructed in this study was composed of bodice, sleeve, collar, cuffs and pocket modules chosen based on the results of a morphological analysis.

A CAD program has been developed that might improve the efficiency of design work by helping the users to make fashion flat sketches more easily.

The automatic module assembling algorithm developed in this study has not been implemented in any existing commercial systems. It is expected that users who do not have expertise in fashion design could be able to participate from the clothing design stage as a mass customization prosumer by using the software.

The purpose of this paper is to study the problem of fashion flat sketches classification and proposed an integrated approach. It aims to propose a fast, reliable method to handle multi-class fashion flat sketches classification problems and lay the foundation for the garment style query in the next step.

The proposed integrated approach adopts wavelet Fourier descriptor (WFD), linear discriminant analysis (LDA) and extreme learning machine (ELM). First, the discrete wavelet and Fourier transform are adopted to extract the shape features of fashion flat sketches. Then, LDA is employed for multi-class classification to reduce dimensionality. Finally, ELM is used as the classifier.

The experimental results show that the classification accuracy of the integrated approach is obtained at about 100 percent. Contrary to the traditional approaches, efficiency and accuracy are the advantages of the present approach.

Fashion concept is conveyed often in the form of the fashion illustration or sketch. This type of sketch is useful to imply the style and overall feel of the design. However, this sketch gives no clue about the parts or sections that make up each garment. For this reason, this paper only studies the classification of flat sketches.

A new shape descriptor named WFD is proposed. The WFD acquires high classification accuracy comparing with Fourier descriptor (FD) and multiscale Fourier descriptor (MFD) without dimensionality reduction and nearly the same classification accuracy comparing with FD while MFD easily causes small sample size problem with dimensionality reduction using LDA. In addition, ELM is first used as the classifier in the textiles field related to the classification problem.

The main purpose is to construct the mapping relationship between garment flat and pattern. Particle swarm optimization–least-squares support vector machine (PSO-LSSVM), the data-driven model, is proposed for predicting the pattern design dimensions based on small sample sizes by digitizing the experience of the patternmakers.

For this purpose, the sleeve components were automatically localized and segmented from the garment flat by the Mask R-CNN. The sleeve flat measurements were extracted by the Douglas–Peucker algorithm. Then, the PSO algorithm was used to optimize the LSSVM parameters. PSO-LSSVM was trained by utilizing the experience of patternmakers.

The experimental results demonstrated that the PSO-LSSVM model can effectively improve the generation ability and prediction accuracy in pattern design dimensions, even with small sample sizes. The mean square error could reach 1.057 ± 0.06. The fluctuation range of absolute error was smaller than the others such as pure LSSVM, backpropagation and radial basis function prediction models.

By constructing the mapping relationship between sleeve flat and pattern, the problems of the garment flat objective recognition and pattern design dimensions accurate prediction were solved. Meanwhile, the proposed method overcomes the problem that the parameters are determined by PSO rather than empirically. This framework could be extended to other garment components.

To better respond to today’s volatile and changing fashion market, the purpose of this paper is to develop a web-based design support system that enables users to design realistic and interesting skirts in the form of technical sketches over the internet.

The proposed system mainly consists of a sketch representation and composing method (SRCM), a graphic user interface (GUI) and a controller. The SRCM is implemented at the server end that generates technical sketches according to user defined parameters and features via the web-based GUI at the client side. The controller manages the workflows between the server and the clients.

To evaluate the effectiveness of the proposed system, a survey was conducted by inviting 30 subjects (professional designers or undergraduate students studying fashion design) to have trial run of the system in Hong Kong and in the USA. Positive comments and feedbacks were received, and valuable suggestions were also obtained in regard to the prototype system.

Compared with traditional computer-aided design (CAD) systems, the proposed system is more effective and easier to operate as users can create technical sketches in accurate proportions with simple computer operations in a few mouse clicks. Besides, the output sketches are fully compatible with most commercial CAD software. The system is developed based on web technologies, thus fashion sketches can be easily designed using any computer connected to the internet; it can be implemented on Android or iOS platform in the future.

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and interaction to design 3D garments and 2D patterns. The proposed scheme has the potential to satisfy the individual needs of fashion industry, such as precise fit evaluation of the garment, interactive style editing with ease allowance and constrained contour lines in fashion design.

The authors first construct a parametric pattern-making model for flat pattern design corresponding to the body dimensions. Then, the designing 2D patterns are stitched on a virtual 3D mannequin by performing a virtual try-on. If the customer is unsatisfied after the virtual try-on, the adjustable parameters (appearance parameters and fit parameters) can be adjusted using the 2D–3D linkage editing with hierarchical constrained contour lines, and the fit evaluation tool interactively provides the feedback.

The authors observed that the usability and efficiency of the existing garment pattern-making method simplifies the garment pattern-making process. The authors utilize an interactive garment parametric flat pattern-making model to generate an individualized garment flat pattern that effectively adjust and realize the local editing of the garment pattern-making. The 2D–3D linkage editing is then employed, which alters the size and shape of garment pattern for a precise human model fit of the 3D garment using hierarchical constrained contour lines. Various instances have validated the effectiveness of the proposed scheme, which can increase the reusability of the existing garment styles and improve the efficiency of fashion design.

First, the authors do not consider the garment pattern-making design of sophisticated styles. Second, the authors do not directly consider complex garment shapes such as wrinkles, folds, multi-layer models and fabric physical properties.

The authors propose a pattern adjustment scheme that uses the 3D virtual try-on technology to avoid repetitions of reality-based fit tests and garment sample making in the designing process of clothing products. The proposed scheme provides interactive selections of garment patterns and sizes and renders modification tools for 3D garment designing and 2D garment pattern-making. The authors present the 2D–3D interactive linkage editing scheme for a custom-fit garment pattern based on the hierarchical constraint contour lines. The spatial relationship among the human body, pattern pieces and 3D garment model is adequately expressed, and the final design result of the garment pattern is obtained by constraint solving. Meanwhile, the tightness tension of different parts of the 3D garment is analyzed, and the fit and comfort of the garment are quantitatively evaluated.

States that there has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment. Although the use of such technology is commonplace in many industries, the problems associated with the development of a suitable system for garment design have yet to be fully resolved. Envisages that such a system would provide the tools to develop a 3D simulation of a prototype garment which can be viewed from any angle prior to making a physical sample. This combined with the facility to develop the corresponding 2D pattern shapes and evaluate the fit of the virtual garment make the prospect of such a system extremely enticing. Considers the need for 3D working methods in garment design and the research issues involved in the development of a 3D computer aided design (CAD) system for garment design. The potential features of such a system are introduced in the context of a hypothetical system. Discusses the approach of a number of researchers in the field and considers future developments.

The purpose of this paper is to combine patterns from different garment sets and preview garment styles in 3D apparel design by giving sewing names to patterns and sewing edges.

A new rule for 3D garment sewing is made. Unlike conventional vertex number‐based method, patterns and their edges are given specific names. If two edges have a same edge name, they make a sewing line. Thus, patterns from different garments can be combined and draped with this method. Numbers of boundary mesh nodes were controlled using B‐Spline to combine sewing edges of different lengths.

It is found that by only assigning names to patterns and sewing edges, garment style can be previewed by substituting patterns.

Styles and details of garments can be previewed in 3D by mixing patterns of different garment sets like in 2D technical flat sketching. Even patterns with different edge lengths can be combined by controlling the pattern meshes using B‐Spline.

The purpose of this paper is to challenge Cold War binaries, seeking a more nuanced understanding of popular experience of change in the Soviet Union’s last decades. This was a period of intensive modernization and rapid transformation in Soviet citizens’ everyday material environment, marked by the mass move to newly constructed housing and by changing relations with goods.

To probe popular experience and changing meanings, the paper turns to qualitative, subjective sources, drawing on oral history interviews (Everyday Aesthetics in the Modern Soviet Flat, 2004-2007).

The paper finds that qualitative changes took place in Soviet popular consumer culture during the 1960s-1970s, as millions of people made home in new housing amid the widespread media circulation of authoritative images representing a desirable modern lifestyle and modernist aesthetic. Soviet people began to make aesthetic or semiotic distinctions between functionally identical goods and were concerned to find the right furniture to fit a desired lifestyle, aesthetic ideal and sense of self.

The problem is how to conceptualize the trajectory of change in ways that do justice to historical subjects’ experience and narratives, while avoiding uncritically reproducing Cold War binaries or perpetuating the normative status claimed by the postwar West in defining modernity and consumer culture.

The paper challenges dominant Cold War narratives, according to which Soviet popular relations with goods were encompassed by shortage and necessity. It advances understanding of the specific form of modern consumer culture, which, it argues, took shape in the USSR after Stalin.

A striking feature of Jaques' work is his “no nonsense” attitude to the “manager‐subordinate” relationship. His blunt account of the origins of this relationship seems at first sight to place him in the legalistic “principles of management” camp rather than in the ranks of the subtler “people centred” schools. We shall see before long how misleading such first impressions can be, for Jaques is not making simplistic assumptions about the human psyche. But he certainly sees no point in agonising over the mechanism of association which brings organisations and work‐groups into being when the facts of life are perfectly straightforward and there is no need to be squeamish about them.