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Article

Chen Bao, Yongwei Miao, Bingfei Gu, Kaixuan Liu and Zhen Liu

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and interaction to design 3D garments and 2D patterns. The proposed scheme has the potential to satisfy the individual needs of fashion industry, such as precise fit evaluation of the garment, interactive style editing with ease allowance and constrained contour lines in fashion design.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors first construct a parametric pattern-making model for flat pattern design corresponding to the body dimensions. Then, the designing 2D patterns are stitched on a virtual 3D mannequin by performing a virtual try-on. If the customer is unsatisfied after the virtual try-on, the adjustable parameters (appearance parameters and fit parameters) can be adjusted using the 2D–3D linkage editing with hierarchical constrained contour lines, and the fit evaluation tool interactively provides the feedback.

Findings

The authors observed that the usability and efficiency of the existing garment pattern-making method simplifies the garment pattern-making process. The authors utilize an interactive garment parametric flat pattern-making model to generate an individualized garment flat pattern that effectively adjust and realize the local editing of the garment pattern-making. The 2D–3D linkage editing is then employed, which alters the size and shape of garment pattern for a precise human model fit of the 3D garment using hierarchical constrained contour lines. Various instances have validated the effectiveness of the proposed scheme, which can increase the reusability of the existing garment styles and improve the efficiency of fashion design.

Research limitations/implications

First, the authors do not consider the garment pattern-making design of sophisticated styles. Second, the authors do not directly consider complex garment shapes such as wrinkles, folds, multi-layer models and fabric physical properties.

Originality/value

The authors propose a pattern adjustment scheme that uses the 3D virtual try-on technology to avoid repetitions of reality-based fit tests and garment sample making in the designing process of clothing products. The proposed scheme provides interactive selections of garment patterns and sizes and renders modification tools for 3D garment designing and 2D garment pattern-making. The authors present the 2D–3D interactive linkage editing scheme for a custom-fit garment pattern based on the hierarchical constraint contour lines. The spatial relationship among the human body, pattern pieces and 3D garment model is adequately expressed, and the final design result of the garment pattern is obtained by constraint solving. Meanwhile, the tightness tension of different parts of the 3D garment is analyzed, and the fit and comfort of the garment are quantitatively evaluated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article

Sungmin Kim

The purpose of this paper is to explore the simulation of garments with various combinations of shape and size using a parametric pattern design method.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to explore the simulation of garments with various combinations of shape and size using a parametric pattern design method.

Design/methodology/approach

The approach of this study is to design garment patterns using a text‐based script language and assemble them on a deformable virtual body model to evaluate the appearance and fit of the resulting garment to facilitate the garment design process.

Findings

In this study, various garment patterns are designed parametrically by an expandable script language and simulated directly on a deformable body model.

Research limitations/implications

The size and shape of parametrically generated garment patterns are all different for each garment and therefore a full‐texture mapping technique cannot be applied.

Practical implications

This method may reduce the time required to evaluate the appearance and fit of bespoke garments by replacing the trial‐and‐error based traditional procedures.

Originality/value

The integration of a script‐based parametric pattern design method into the garment drape simulation system is one of the most useful applications for the practical garment design process.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 24 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article

Jing‐Jing Fang and Chang‐Kai Liao

This ongoing research revolute the conventional clothing design process by garment constructions in truly three dimensions rather than in two dimensions by ways of pattern…

Abstract

Purpose

This ongoing research revolute the conventional clothing design process by garment constructions in truly three dimensions rather than in two dimensions by ways of pattern design. The aim of the research is to develop a computer‐assisted clothing design tool in complete three dimensions. It would provide the garment designers the capabilities of 3D basal garment creation, restyling, and static fitting analysis when wearing on a digital mannequin. The kernel of the design environment and the mathematical formulas used in garment creation are described, results and implementations will be presented later in part II of this paper.

Design/methodology/approach

In this paper, a mannequin‐based garment design and restyling tools in three dimensions is proposed. The tools are based on mathematical formulas which provide an intuitive way of computer‐aided garment design.

Findings

Free style creation on clothes is performed by the provided tools and its formulas behind. Feature‐based mannequin model is initially constructed by its features interpolation. The crucial girths on garment, for instances, collar girth and sleeve girth are generated from the neck girth and the armhole girth, respectively. Based on the feature girths on the mannequin, garment surface is “radial grown” from the digital mannequin. B‐spline surface, loft surface, and sweep surface are used to build blouse, sleeve, and collar for creation and restyling.

Research limitations/implications

Basal garment is initially “grown” from the computer mannequin model, which means, size grading no longer becomes extra work. 3D restyling tool is then invoked to conduct versatile designs by exhibiting designers' imagination space. Static fitting analysis is easily performed by the corresponding features on the mannequin.

Originality/value

In this paper, a new three dimensions method in clothing design for clothes style creation and restyling in three dimensions on a digital mannequin model is proposed. In this research, a truly 3D garment design tool is developed in order to break through currently paper draft design concept.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 17 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article

Yan Hong, Pascal Bruniaux, Xianyi Zeng, Kaixuan Liu, Yan Chen and Min Dong

The purpose of this paper is to present a new collaborative design-based method for designing customized garments, aimed at the physically disabled people with scoliosis.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to present a new collaborative design-based method for designing customized garments, aimed at the physically disabled people with scoliosis.

Design/methodology/approach

The proposed method is based on the virtual human model created using a 3D body scanner, permitting to simulate the consumer’s morphological shape with atypical physical deformations. Next, customized 2D and 3D virtual garment prototyping tools will be used to create products through interactions between the consumer, designer and pattern maker. The general principle of the proposed design method is based on the following sequence: design-display-evaluation-adjustment. After running the sequence for a number of times, the final design solution, which will be approved by both the designer and consumer, can be easily identified.

Findings

Design knowledge, which is already applied to normal body shapes successfully can be applied to 3D garment design using the concept which is based on collaborative design. Through this process, the classical 2D garment design knowledge, especially 2D patterns and design rules, can be modified and applied according to a normalized virtual garment sensory evaluation procedure quantitatively. This evaluation procedure, interactively performed by the designer and consumer, can permit to adapt the finished product to disabled people afflicted with severe scoliosis. The proposed method is also validated to be more advanced compared to 2D-to-3D virtual CAD design method, especially for atypical morphologies.

Originality/value

As a co-design method, 3D virtual draping and sensory evaluation can fully satisfy the interaction between the garment design technical space and perceptual space of the finished garments ensuring desired 3D garment fit effect by adjustment of technical parameters. 3D scanning technology is used to generate a complete digitalized 3D human model, permitting to extract the main features of body shapes without accurate measurements. As a knowledge-based design process, both the fashion design knowledge and the pattern making knowledge will be extracted to provide inspirations and references. Successful design solutions will be incorporated into the fashion design knowledge base in order to generate new design rules and enhance professional design knowledge.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article

George Stylios

Discusses the 6th ITCRR, its breadth of textile and clothing research activity, plus the encouragement given to workers in this field and its related areas. States that…

Abstract

Discusses the 6th ITCRR, its breadth of textile and clothing research activity, plus the encouragement given to workers in this field and its related areas. States that, within the newer research areas under the microscope of the community involved, technical textiles focuses on new, ‘smart’ garments and the initiatives in this field in both the UK and the international community at large. Covers this subject at length.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 13 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article

George K. Stylios

Looks at the eighth published year of the ITCRR and the research, from far and near, involved in this. Muses on the fact that, though all the usual processes are to the…

Abstract

Looks at the eighth published year of the ITCRR and the research, from far and near, involved in this. Muses on the fact that, though all the usual processes are to the fore, the downside part of the industry is garment making which is the least developed side. Posits that the manufacture of clothing needs to become more technologically advanced as does retailing. Closes by emphasising support for the community in all its efforts.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 14 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article

Janice Huck, Oprah Maganga and Younghee Kim

Protective clothing should ideally provide maximum comfort and protection for the wearer. The design and fit of a garment are factors which can affect both the protective…

Abstract

Protective clothing should ideally provide maximum comfort and protection for the wearer. The design and fit of a garment are factors which can affect both the protective aspects of a garment as well as its comfort. Proper garment fit depends on the relationship of the size of the garment compared with the size of the wearer. Garment ease (where the garment is larger than the wearer) should allow for comfort and mobility; both too much or too little ease can result in a garment that is uncomfortable and restrictive to movement. The purpose of this study was to explore a research technique to isolate the effects of garment ease in one area of a garment while ease in all other garment areas was controlled, and to determine a design that would maximize wearer mobility. Using five male subjects, protective overalls with differing amounts and garment location of crotch ease were evaluated for their effects on mobility and wearer acceptance. Range of motion measurements for selected joints were evaluated using a Leighton Flexometer. Subjects completed a subjective evaluation scale after performing an exercise protocol while wearing the overalls. Results indicated that a specific amount of ease in the crotch length of overalls may be appropriate. Additionally, an overall design that had all needed crotch ease in the back waist area of the garment may be desirable over the more conventional method of adding ease evenly between the front and back sections of the garment. The methodology used in this study provides a means of evaluating not only the potential for design variations in protective clothing, but provides a means to evaluate the dynamic aspects of fit of clothing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 9 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article

Sahar Ejeimi, Diane Sparks and Ruoh-Nan Yan

The purpose of this study was to collaboratively design eight professional dress ensembles incorporating Hejazi tribal embroidery and to evaluate Saudi female academics…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study was to collaboratively design eight professional dress ensembles incorporating Hejazi tribal embroidery and to evaluate Saudi female academics’ perceptions about those ensembles as appropriate for professional attire. The concept aimed to offer the potential for increased cultural identity by wearing modernized ethnic dress as everyday workplace attire that was relatively practical, affordable and expressive of Saudi cultural identity.

Design/methodology/approach

The goal in this research was to engage Saudi female academic professionals in designing clothing that integrated Saudi textile and costume traditions into contemporary styles appropriate for the academic work environment. Two models guided the research. The FEA model (Lamb and Kallal, 1992) was used to organize the questions in the survey questionnaire around an integration of culture with functional, aesthetic and expressive aspects of apparel. The second model guiding the research was an adaptation of the USAP participatory co-design model (Demirbilek and Demirkan, 2004). This model was used to engage study participants in the design process.

Findings

Qualitative results showed that participants were willing to wear the garments in this study, as the garments represented heritage, looked contemporary in terms of style lines, had comfort and interchangeable garment components, embroidery and printed fabric, fabric used in garment designs and color. Quantitative results showed that the ratings for the final garments were generally higher than the first sketches in the first phase. Results of the eight designs in the collection revealed that the aesthetic aspect was the most referenced by the participants among the FEA aspects. Results also indicated that silver waves design received the highest rating among the designs in terms of FEA aspects.

Originality/value

This research provides greater understanding of the ethnic culture of the Western region of Saudi Arabia for Western scholars. Previous research has indicated an interest in having garment manufacturing take place in Saudi Arabia (Turkustani, 1995). Findings from this research may lead to future study on the state of apparel production in Saudi Arabia and the potential feasibility of establishing a center for training in digital technology to support small business opportunities for Saudi women who are trained for work in the apparel industry.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 22 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

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Article

George K. Stylios

Examines the tenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…

Abstract

Examines the tenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 16 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article

Fangfang Zhang and Trevor John Little

3D garment design technology is developing rapidly thereby creating a need for different approaches to developing the patterns. The purpose of this paper is to evaluate…

Abstract

Purpose

3D garment design technology is developing rapidly thereby creating a need for different approaches to developing the patterns. The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the 3D dynamic ease distribution for a 3D garment design.

Design/methodology/approach

Standard garments were created from Size 2 to Size 14 for ten human subjects. Landmarks location on both human body and the standard garment under dynamic postures are recorded, and he fit and comfort evaluation of the standard garment were collected from the ten human subjects. Finally, these data were used to evaluate the 3D dynamic ease distribution for a 3D garment design.

Findings

3D dynamic ease evaluation is challenging and the findings showed that the upper-arm design is a core element of the whole 3D garment design. The upper arm is not only a connecting part for both front and back pieces of the garment, but is also the main active part of the body, so it is the essential element to affect the comfort and fit of the garment under dynamic postures.

Originality/value

This research provides a novel 3D ease evaluation by analyzing the landmarks location of both human body and standard garment, and fit and comfort evaluation of the standard garment, which are all carried under dynamic postures.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 22 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

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