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By controlling the value of influencing factors of raglan sleeves, the authors can balance the comfort and aesthetics of raglan sleeves and get the best parameter value.

Under the condition that the slope of sleeve midline is 45 and the height of sleeve mountain is 15.00 cm, different armhole depth and connection point between the body and the sleeve are combined, and the influence of these two on the comfort and aesthetics of clothing is studied by CLO software.

The relationship between sleeve fat (Y), armhole depth drop (X₁) and the distance (X₂) between the connection point between the body and the sleeve and the center line is Y = 12.985 + 1.240·X₁ + 0.895·X₂. When the armhole drop is 5.00 cm and the connection point is 1 cm closer to the center line, the comfort and aesthetics can be better balanced.

These data can provide reference for future research on raglan sleeves.

Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new development mode of fully formed knitted apparel with double-layer structure and fake two-piece knitwear is proposed.

Based on the upper body structure feature points of human body characteristics and single-layer knitted garment prototype, a double-layer structure knitted garment pattern was established by pattern expansion method. The model was introduced into SDS-APPEX3 design system for process design, including three aspects consists: the inner vest, the outer blouse and double-layer joint part, analysis of the process and forming principle. Weaving on four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine of MACH-2XS, through the setting of the machine parameters. Finally, a full-shaped fake two-piece knitted blouse was formed.

On the basis of single-layer knitted garment pattern, a double-layer garment pattern is constructed, and the design and weaving are completed on the four-needle bed computerized knitting machine of MACH-2XS and its supporting SDS-APPEX3 design system through the fake two-piece double-layer garment style design. The double-layer joint model is an effective reference for the construction of this kind of fake two-piece fully formed knitted clothing.

In this paper, a design and knitting method of fully formed double-layer structure fake two-piece knitted garment is proposed. The integrated knitting of fully formed double-layer structure sweater is realized for the first time, which provides ideas for the development of fully formed double-layer structure knitted clothing style and enriches the fully formed clothing style.

Prefabricated columns connected by grouted sleeves are increasingly used in practical projects. However, seismic fragility analyses of such structures are rarely conducted. Seismic fragility analysis has an important role in seismic hazard evaluation. In this paper, the seismic fragility of sleeve connected prefabricated column is analyzed.

A model for predicting the seismic demand on sleeve connected prefabricated columns has been created by incorporating engineering demand parameters (EDP) and probabilities of seismic failure. The incremental dynamics analysis (IDA) curve clusters of this type of column were obtained using finite element analysis. The seismic fragility curve is obtained by regression of Exponential and Logical Function Model.

The IDA curve cluster gradually increased the dispersion after a peak ground acceleration (PGA) of 0.3 g was reached. For both columns, the relative displacement of the top of the column significantly changed after reaching 50 mm. The seismic fragility of the prefabricated column with the sleeve placed in the cap (SPCA) was inadequate.

The sleeve was placed in the column to overcome the seismic fragility of prefabricated columns effectively. In practical engineering, it is advisable to utilize these columns in regions susceptible to earthquakes and characterized by high seismic intensity levels in order to mitigate the risk of structural damage resulting from ground motion.

The purpose of this study is to propose the parametric sleeve patternmaking method that enables mass customization.

To propose the parametric sleeve patternmaking method, the required components for parametrization were identified, and required elements for the application of mass customization were extracted as an objective sleeve pattern.

Overall drafting processes, the formulas for lines and points, the values of notches, and the value of the ease of ESMOD method, the angles and the formulas for darts of Müller’s method, and the size of Sleeve Opening and the way of pattern control of Secoli’s method were combined in the new method proposed.

Further study requires a comprehensive analysis of the proposed sleeve patternmaking method and developing the parametric sleeve pattern CAD for mass customization to utilize and commercialize the parametric sleeve patternmaking method.

The parametric sleeve patternmaking method is suitable for mass customization. Especially, even beginners would apply the parametric sleeve patternmaking method proposed in this study to any type of bodice pattern without confusion.

The parametric sleeve patternmaking method proposed is simple and delivers the lines and the calculated values for the sleeve patternmaking clearly and objectively rather than the patterner’s intuition does.

In combination with an aeroplane having a wing with an aileron hinged to the rear portion thereof to swing up or down from a neutral position to either an ordinary or extreme deflected position and back again, a control for the aileron comprising an actuating element in the pilot's compartment of the aeroplane, a sleeve connected pivotally to the front portion of the aileron and adapted in response to axial shift thereof to swing said aileron, a plunger having one end thereof fitting within the sleeve and its other end mounted in the wing so that said plunger is rotatable without axial displacement, means between the actuating element and said other end of the plunger for effecting rotation of the plunger in response to control movement of said element, and a roller and cam slot motion imparting connection between the plunger and sleeve operative in response to rotation of said plunger to shift the sleeve axially and thus effect swinging of the aileron, the slot of said connection being of helical design and formed in the sleeve and having the intermediate part thereof adapted to receive the roller when the aileron is in or near its neutral position and arranged so that when the roller is disposed therein the aileron is locked against swinging movement except by rotation of the plunger, and also having one end part thereof adapted to receive the roller when said plunger is rotated in one direction in order to swing upwards the aileron into its ordinary or extreme deflected position and curved and of such pitch that when the roller is therein the aileron is free so that it tends in response to flow of air there‐against during flight of the aeroplane to return downwards to its neutral position, and its other end adapted to receive the roller when the plunger is rotated in the reverse direction in order to swing the aileron downwards into an ordinary or extreme deflected position and curved and of such pitch that when the roller is therein the aileron is free so that it tends in response to flow of air there‐against during flight of the aeroplane to return upwards to its neutral position.

Following the investigations of sizing systems and size codes in the first part of this study (published in JFMM 4/1), comparative analysis of three systems of pattern design construction is carried out. The relevant pattern dimensions are then formulated so as to implement computerised made‐to‐measure (MTM) pattern generation for the construction of the bodice and sleeve blocks. Based on these new formulations, the establishment of the proposed size charts is simplified and a construction plan is presented to illustrate the new pattern construction system. This is developed to be both logical and flexible for application to different female figure types. In addition, a grade plan is recommended for advanced pattern grading.

The purpose of this paper is to present a method of digital twins of female bodies and the optimization of wetsuit patterns with the help of virtual technologies.

First, the new anthropometrical grouping of female torsos has been developed with 3D body scanning technology. Second, soft tissue deformation under the influence of typical diving postures and hydraulic pressure has been explored. Through real experiments, the relationship between textile material strain and body measurement changing has been applied to establish deformed digital twins of female bodies. Finally, during the evaluation of the virtual wetsuit test on digital twins through material strain and pressure values in CLO 3D, the optimized pattern of the wetsuit has been designed.

The experimental results show that the digital twins based on real data transformation are feasible and practical, and the process of establishing digital twins with 3D body scanning technology is valid and accurate.

The researches on the wetsuit of structure and body dynamic measurements still have many gaps existing in the real and virtual experiments. Thus the manuscript addresses these issues and provides the deformed digital twin for wetsuit pattern design for the first time. This study can be used for designing and optimizing the wetsuit and further improving the efficiency of manufacture and evaluation.

To make individualized men's basic upper garment patterns without sleeves, the authors developed a measuring garment that measures necessary body dimensions and angles all together. Additionally, the authors proposed a method for making individualized basic body block patterns using the obtained dimensions and angles.

The authors decided on the locations of the dimensions of the body required for making the individualized garments. The authors then sewed multiple stretchable capacitance sensors to corresponding locations on a stretchable T-shirt. To obtain the dimensions with sensors of short length, the authors indirectly obtained each length from the relationship between the actual body length and the capacitance of the sensor. Beforehand, the authors obtained linear-approximation equations for the relationship between actual body dimensions and the capacitance of sensors for five participants and a dummy. The authors then used the measuring garment and the equations to obtain the body dimensions of another six participants. The authors compared the obtained and actual body dimensions to verify the equations. The authors made individualized upper-garment patterns without sleeves and garments for the 11 participants with the obtained dimensions and angles. The authors verified the proposed method in wearing tests comparing garments designed using the proposed method with conventionally designed garments.

Using the measuring garment, the authors obtained body dimensions close to actual body dimensions. A pattern of the individualized basic upper garment using the obtained dimensions and angles could be drawn. Compared with the conventional patterns, the individualized patterns had notable differences in the locations of the shoulder point and side neck point and directions of the shoulder line, which relate to the shoulder shape (i.e. square, sloping, forward, or backward). In wearing tests, all participants declared that the individualized garment better fitted their shoulders than the conventional garment without tightness around the shoulders, neck, and armpits. The proposed method with the developed measuring garment was thus found to be effective in designing individualized garments.

This paper presents the possibility of not only measuring body dimensions but also designing individualized basic upper garments using the proposed measuring garment. The proposed measuring garment will assist the efficient manufacture of individualized upper garments without a three-dimensional scanner or special skills.

The purpose of this paper is to achieve one garment with multiple uses, reduce waste and increase the fun of clothing design.

Through the comparison of the structural design of windbreaker with the structural design of suit and other coats, find out the similarities and differences between them in the structure then provide a reliable theoretical basis for the combination and transformation of the two; and then start with the structural theory of men's windbreaker, from the detail structure and the structure. The optimization design of the overall structure, the application of mathematical theory to establish a regular structure design method, so that it can be split through the zipper combination into men's suits or other coats. Finally, from the perspective of technology, the functional transformation from men's windbreaker to men's casual suit and other coats is completed in terms of style, structure and technology.

Through reasonable clothing structure design and invisible zipper layout, one type of clothing can be used as multiple types of clothing.

A new fashion design method is proposed to minimize the waste of fashion design process.

In years past, when life seemed simpler and the Law much less complicated, jurists were fond of quoting the age‐old saying: “All men are equal before the Law.” It was never completely true; there were important exemptions when strict legal enforcement would have been against the public interests. A classic example was Crown immunity, evolved from the historical principle that “The King can do no wrong”. With the growth of government, the multiplicity of government agencies and the enormous amount of secondary legislation, the statutes being merely enabling Acts, this immunity revealed itself as being used largely against public interests. Statutory instruments were being drafted within Ministerial departments largely by as many as 300 officers of those departments authorized to sign such measures, affecting the rights of the people without any real Parliamentary control. Those who suffered and lost in their enforcement had no remedy; Crown immunity protected all those acting as servants of the Crown and the principle came to be an officials' charter with no connection whatever with the Crown. Parliament, custodian of the national conscience, removed much of this socially unacceptable privilege in the Crown Proceedings Act, 1947, which enabled injured parties within limit to sue central departments and their officers. The more recent system of Commissioners—Parliamentary, Local Authority, Health Service—with power to enquire into allegations of injustice, maladministration, malpractice to individuals extra‐legally, has extended the rights of the suffering citizen.