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The purpose of this paper is to investigate basic block pattern modification according to fabric used and the mismatch between 2D and 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths when ease allowance is changed uniformly.

For the investigation, virtual try-on software Modaris 3D Fit (CAD Lectra) was used. The straight shape dress fitting was done using seven cotton and cotton blended plain weave fabrics. After virtual try-on, the mismatch d (d_bust, d_waist, d_hip) between 2D and 3D measure lines was measured in order to determine base pattern adjustments using different fabrics.

It was found that the position and length of 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths does not match the position and length of corresponding lines in 2D base patterns after virtual try-on due to fabrics deformation, which is related to mechanical properties. It was proved that derived linear equations presenting a relation between mismatch and ease allowance values could be used for basic block pattern modification that 3D and 2D measure lines would coincide during clothing try-on.

This research is limited to cotton/cotton blended woven fabrics and straight dress; therefore, other fabric types and other clothing could be investigated in the future to expand data basis.

The main practical point of the proposed method is that in order to obtain particular 3D ease value in a garment, it can be calculated from 2D ease allowance value and the fabric’s tensile properties using linear equations. The basic block patterns could be modified using this method not only for tested fabrics but also for other fabrics with similar composition, structural and mechanical properties. 3D ease values in garment can be easily checked by using virtual try-on technology without production of real prototypes. The method is applicable for making ready-to-wear or individually tailored clothing.

The proposed method in this paper presented opportunity to modify the basic block patterns of the dress according to the fabric’s tensile properties and 2D ease allowance. The basic block patterns could be modified according to presented linear functions for each tested fabric. The application of this method can fully ensure the interaction between the garment 2D patterns to 3D garment so that a desired 3D garment fitting effect to the body can easily be satisfied by the adjustment of particular fabric characteristics. It offers further possibilities, especially with developing virtual try-on technologies.

This paper presents an investigation on the development of different pattern placement strategies in robotic palletisation of box packages in the packaging industry with practical implementations for one, two, four and five block patterns with the aim of improving the operational efficiency in robotic palletisation.

The work involves considering the gripper design and maximum number of picks and various process parameters that affect the robotic implementation of pallet patterns and develops a methodology to form different patterns for a given pallet size.

The proposed methodology represents an efficient approach for pallet pattern implementation and results in reduced number of placements required for a given number of boxes per layer and reduced time for palletisation.

The paper introduces a novel technique for pallet loading problem (PLP) considering the physical aspects and restrictions encountered when using the robot and the gripper size to generate the pattern on the pallet. Traditional solutions of PLP do not consider these aspects in pattern placements.

The purpose of this paper is to provide a theoretical model for considering ease numerically in the clothing pattern. Classifying the pattern as a geometric Cartesian coordinate system, this model proposes the need to quantify the partly coincident variables of ease, which will enable greater control over garment fit and function, using traditional or CAD/CAM methods.

The principles of pattern/garment dimensions are considered with support from analysis of literature and contributing factors to the variables of ease are categorised. These principles support a proposed theoretical model for considering pattern/garment dimensions, in the numeric format that they exist within the context of pattern construction.

Pattern construction occurs in a 2D Cartesian coordinate system, guided by body dimensions and ease. This can be modelled in the form of an algorithm relating to the placement of cardinal points defining the pattern outline. Recognition of the numerical nature of the pattern, suggests the need to quantify the coincident variables of ease, to achieve greater control over garment fit and function.

Few sources exist enabling the recognition of ease requirements in the pattern/garment and when guidance on ease is presented, there is little rationale as to how it has been established, or what contributes to its definition.

The paper shows how current methods of pattern construction can be modelled more effectively, recognising the geometric nature on which they are based. Modelling these relationships highlights where quantification can be provided, by existing knowledge or future research.

Virtual design of contemporary and historical clothes is a very intensive and developing area of science that can be considered as a bridge between costume heritage and modern way of its presentation by means of CAD. The purpose of this paper is to apply 2D and 3D existing CAD for virtual reconstruction of the very specific kind of women’s clothes such as a side-saddle riding habit (RH) used in 1875–1915.

The construction of RH was adapted to the aesthetic rules of the mentioned time, ergonomic posture of a woman sitting on a horse, surface of the horse’s body which the woman is sitting on. For the new method, the huge databases were obtained after analyzing the historical pattern manuals and features of pattern blocks used, possible postures of riding, construction of RH and converting it into virtual system “avatar – RH.” To reconstruct the side-saddle RH in virtual reality, the images dated 1887 and authentic pattern blocks were used. Special attention has been given to the topology of contacting areas existing between the sitting woman and “shaped” riding skirt and to the method of presenting it by means of special points combination.

The authors have developed a new method of virtual reconstruction of an RH that is based on automatic consideration of all joining elements such as “shaped” riding skirt, avatar and its ergonomic posture. The new approach allows reconstruction of the clothes in virtual reality in three ways: by using the real skirts, the historical pattern blocks or pictures.

The results obtained allow increased possibilities of virtual reconstruction and include in the list new objects of engineering achievements of the nineteenth century such as the side-saddle RH. This study should help researchers and practical specialists to recreate and save the historical treasure in a digital way.

The development of an educational CAD system for the design of flat patterns for female apparel is described. The philosophy used in the development of the system is explained, together with the structure of the system which includes on‐line help files, demonstration programs and tutorials with assignments to assist the novice user.

The introduction of clothing pattern cutting systems represented a significant technological and economic breakthrough for the garment designer, as they noticeably reduced the amount of time and skill required to cut a fashionable garment offering an acceptable fit. Many different types of pattern system are currently in use across the world, each being appropriate for specific measurement systems, tailoring methods and for particular types of figure. These pattern-cutting systems have developed to accommodate cultural predilections and diverse preferences in respect of fashion silhouettes. Modern clothing pattern design work is increasingly performed using computer-based pattern-drafting systems. This commonly results in conformance with international designs, with its attendant loss of traditional design cues. An examination has been made of the distinctions between the shapes of clothes created using the English block pattern system and those that result from using the Chinese Proportion Assigned Cutting Method. The analysis shows that English patterns are more closely tailored to the body whilst Chinese patterns offer more freedom of movement. This knowledge should inform the clothing pattern designer, so that appropriate features may be incorporated into drafted patterns in order to facilitate the tailoring of clothing with apposite design characteristics.

The purpose of this study is to evaluate fit of the basic garments made for Taiwanese female students with various figure characteristics. The basic garments are produced according to patterns derived from the PDS 2000 and APDS‐3D systems.

This study recruited ten Taiwanese female subjects who represented various figure characteristics. After scanning each subject, the body measurements with additional functional ease were manually entered into the APDS‐3D system accompanied with the PDS 2000 system to generate the block patterns. These patterns were used to make basic garments worn on the subjects for fit evaluations. T‐test and one‐way ANOVA were employed to investigate if any statistically significant differences between figure characteristics of subjects exist.

After statistical analysis, results showed that the percentage of tolerance allowed by the system in preventing incorrect measurements has to be revised and more measurements have to be included into the APDS‐3D system. Furthermore, female students who exhibit multiple figure variations complicate fitting problems. For example, sloped‐shoulder subjects with narrow shoulders and forward stance generate the problem of extra fabric gathering at the shoulder tips as well as looseness at the upper chest. Therefore, figure variations have to be analyzed in a future study.

The convenient sample with limited size does not allow generalization of figure variations associated with fit problems in all colleges or universities located in Taiwan.

Few researchers have analyzed fit problems on garments made for females with figure variations, but none of them use 3D body scanners in combination with computer‐aided design systems to test fit on basic garments for females with various physical characteristics.

The paper seeks to evaluate and present the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of garment fit.

This study focuses on the use of 3D technology in the testing of garment fit. It examines the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of fit and presents primary data from experiments on the provision and testing of garment fit of specified size patterns for a jacket and skirt. Findings on virtual and human fit trials and an evaluation of the 3D technology are presented.

The study found that 3D software for fit provision and testing is still in its infancy, although advancements are currently being made in this area. It establishes that while fit can be virtually tested with 3D technology, its usability is not yet fine‐tuned. It evaluates procedures and presents problematic features of the 3D software. It underscores that although some issues concerning efficient provision and testing of fit still exist, 3D technology overall provides adequate evaluation of fit.

This study highlights areas for fine tuning and provides a basis for further research. While discussing usability of one pattern technology, this paper presents a platform for comparative evaluation of other technology.

Describes a PC‐based CAD system for producing made‐to‐measure garment patterns which has been developed and implemented in the commercial environment of a bridalwear manufacturer. The software simulates the hand drafting methods of the company while automating pattern production with the following benefits: first, very rapid production of made‐to measure patterns; second, production of patterns which require minimal alteration at first fitting; third, a user friendly interface with very short training period; fourth, the de‐skilling of the pattern cutting procedure so that problems of staff turnover and training are minimal; and fifth, the elimination of human error in pattern cutting. Initial software development concentrated on bodice patterns. Further enhancements included sleeves and skirts and the mixing and matching of these three components of a dress. Cutting layouts were produced using automatic layout algorithms so that the whole procedure from order and measurements entry through pattern drafting and lay‐planning to the final full scale plotting could be carried out automatically. Furthermore, a queuing system allowed several orders previously entered on the computer to be processed in succession without any intervention by an operator. All the company’s styles are now held by the computer, which is in constant use, to the exclusion of the previously used skilled and lengthy hand drafting methods.

This paper focuses on the morphological transformations of Cairo's historic cemeteries that currently form a significant part of historic Cairo designated by the UNESCO as a world heritage site. Cairo's historic cemetery continues to be a main burial ground for the city reflecting layers of funeral epochs. Besides offering burial grounds, Cairo's city of the dead had always hosted living functions including residential and crafts among other activities.

Adopting a historico-geographical approach, this study traces morphological transformations of the eastern necropolis of Cairo. Using analysis of archival documents, cartographic and photographic analysis of the eastern necropolis, the study detects changes on three major aspects: (1) impacts of the ever-growing urban city core; (2) transformation of the cemetery's internal urban fabric and (3) change of the size of the residential urban block inside the cemetery.

Findings highlight alarming transformations on the said aspects, threatening the historic value and the urban integrity of Cairo's eastern necropolis. This calls for rising necessities of documentation projects for Cairo's necropolis, as well as urgent necessity of strict applications of local laws of urban conservation.

Despite their rich urban variety, cemeteries have been rarely investigated within the scope of urban morphology. This paper is among the few works that investigate cemeteries using tools and approaches of urban morphology. It also calls for further applications of morphological investigations and wider adoption of morphological approaches for the study of historic cemeteries in order to support their preservation.