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1 – 10 of over 3000The main issue in the mass customization of apparel products is how to efficiently produce products of various sizes. A parametric pattern-making system is one of the notable ways…
Abstract
Purpose
The main issue in the mass customization of apparel products is how to efficiently produce products of various sizes. A parametric pattern-making system is one of the notable ways to rectify this issue, but there is a lack of information on the parametric design itself and its application to the apparel industry. This study compares and analyzes three types of parametric clothing pattern CAD (P-CAD) software currently in use to identify the characteristics of each, and suggest a basic guideline for efficient and adaptable P-CAD software in the apparel industry.
Design/methodology/approach
This study compared three different types of P-CAD software with different characteristics: SuperALPHA: PLUS(as known as YUKA), GRAFIS and Seamly2D. The authors analyzed the types and management methodologies of each software, according to the three essential components that refer to previous studies about parametric design systems: entities, constraints and parameters.
Findings
The results demonstrated the advantages and disadvantages of methodology in terms of three essential components of each software. Based on the results, the authors proposed five strategies for P-CAD development that can be applied to the mass customization of clothing.
Originality/value
This study is meaningful in that it consolidates and organizes information about P-CAD software that has previously been scattered. The framework used in this study has an academic value suggesting guidelines to analyze P-CAD systems.
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Fabiola Bertolotti and Maria Rita Tagliaventi
The paper's aim is twofold: to display how the application of social network analysis techniques to observational data provides researchers with a unique set of data to make sense…
Abstract
Purpose
The paper's aim is twofold: to display how the application of social network analysis techniques to observational data provides researchers with a unique set of data to make sense of the dynamics of organizational settings; to contribute to knowledge on group design, self‐managing teams, and processes of technology diffusion.
Design/methodology/approach
The paper focuses on the findings of qualitative research, recently published, that were conducted in a major Italian clothing company producing garments for the top‐end market. Observation, ethnographic interviews and analysis of documents for data collection were employed. Coding procedures and social network analysis techniques were used to analyse data.
Findings
The long presence in the field allowed for the building of two grounded theories. One deals with the process of Computer Aided Design technology diffusion into a small group and it connects a number of variables usually studied separately in the literature. The second accounts for the enactment of spontaneous self‐managing practices in a group formally designed as a manager‐led team.
Research limitation/implications
The grounded theories are formulated for specific social settings and future research could benefit from replications in different contexts to capture other phenomena leading to different categories to be integrated into the theories or to corroborate them.
Originality/value
The paper derived enacted network data from the direct and prolonged observation of actors as opposed to self‐reported network data. This allowed clarification of the actual content and the quality of the interactions among actors, and to move beyond their quantification, thus enhancing the comprehension of the impact of network relationships upon organizational behaviour.
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In order to present a significant usage of the computer-aided design (CAD)/computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) systems in the apparel and textile industry, the current literature…
Abstract
Purpose
In order to present a significant usage of the computer-aided design (CAD)/computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) systems in the apparel and textile industry, the current literature has been observed. Although the CAD/CAM systems have also been increasingly applied to all fields apparel and textile manufacturing for the last few decades, improving the precision, productivity and the organization of the information flow, they have not been fully utilized in these industrial fields. The paper aims to discuss these issues.
Design/methodology/approach
The paper is structured in three main sections showing the vast applicability of the CAD/CAM systems, the benefits provided by them and the future trend in their development.
Findings
Although the initial development of the CAD/CAM systems strived to completely eliminate manual and time-consuming operations, they have not been accepted in practice due to their inflexibility at making changes and the time needed for regenerating a complex parametric model. The textile and apparel industries show slow progress in acquiring the CAD/CAM systems.
Originality/value
This CAD/CAM technology enabled the customization in the design process according to individual needs and directed the textile and the apparel industry to moving into new directions such as the mass customization to personalization. The paper makes clear that although this technological concept is rather old, the use of the CAD/CAM systems will inevitably broaden in terms of applicability to new production stages.
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Yunchu Yang, Weiyuan Zhang and Cong Shan
The paper aims to provide an overview of the area of digital pattern developing for customized apparel.
Abstract
Purpose
The paper aims to provide an overview of the area of digital pattern developing for customized apparel.
Design/methodology/approach
The paper outlines several methods of digital pattern developing for customized apparel, and discusses the principles, characters and applications. Digital pattern developing process has two paths. One path develops apparel according to traditional 2D pattern‐making technology. There are three methods: parametric design, traditional grading technique, and pattern generating based on artificial intelligence (AI). Another path develops pattern through surface flattening directly from individual 3D apparel model.
Findings
For parametric method, it can improve greatly the efficiency of pattern design or pattern alteration. However, the development and application of parametric Computer‐Aided‐Design (CAD) systems in apparel industry are difficult, because apparel pattern has fewer laws in graphical structure. For grading technique, it is the most practical method because of its simple theory, with which pattern masters are familiar. But these methods require users with higher experience. Creating expert pattern system based on AI can reduce the experience requirements. Meanwhile, a great deal of experiments should be conducted for each garment with different style to create their knowledge databases. For 3D CAD technology, two methods of surface flattening have been outlined, namely geometry flattening and physical flattening. But many improvements should be done if the 3D CAD systems are applied in apparel mass customization.
Originality/value
The paper provides information of value to the future research on developing a practical made‐to‐measure apparel pattern system.
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A comprehensive apparel CAD system was developed to perform automatic garment pattern drafting and the prediction of the final drape shape of designed garment putting on the human…
Abstract
A comprehensive apparel CAD system was developed to perform automatic garment pattern drafting and the prediction of the final drape shape of designed garment putting on the human body. Three dimensional apparel CAD system starts with a flat garment pattern drafting system. A computerized pattern design script language has been created based on the traditional patterner’s principles to develop an automatic draft system of performing basic garment pattern drafting as well as grading rule generation. A pattern modification system was also developed considering functions required in apparel CAD such as auxiliary pattern generation, seam line creation, and dart manipulation to generate engineering patterns which can be used in the three dimensional garment shape prediction system presented later in part II of this paper.
C.H.M. Hardaker and G.J.W. Fozzard
States that there has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment. Although…
Abstract
States that there has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment. Although the use of such technology is commonplace in many industries, the problems associated with the development of a suitable system for garment design have yet to be fully resolved. Envisages that such a system would provide the tools to develop a 3D simulation of a prototype garment which can be viewed from any angle prior to making a physical sample. This combined with the facility to develop the corresponding 2D pattern shapes and evaluate the fit of the virtual garment make the prospect of such a system extremely enticing. Considers the need for 3D working methods in garment design and the research issues involved in the development of a 3D computer aided design (CAD) system for garment design. The potential features of such a system are introduced in the context of a hypothetical system. Discusses the approach of a number of researchers in the field and considers future developments.
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Manufacturers have been struggling to meet the wants and needs of their customers without sacrificing the efficiencies and profits gained through mass production. Fortunately…
Abstract
Manufacturers have been struggling to meet the wants and needs of their customers without sacrificing the efficiencies and profits gained through mass production. Fortunately, developments in information technology have increased the probability of mass customization being adopted as an acceptable business paradigm. Almost every CAD system used in apparel patternmaking has some method that would enable mass customization through automatic alteration of patterns based on individual measurements. Although each has created an interface somewhat differently from all of the others, most have a number of preparatory activities in common that will allow “automatic” alterations to occur. This article outlines the activities involved in setting up CAD systems to automatically customize garments for fit.
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Pawel Trzewik and Piotr Skawinski
This paper aims to create an application to support spiral bevel gear contact pattern verification in the computer aided design (CAD) system to speed up the selection of…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to create an application to support spiral bevel gear contact pattern verification in the computer aided design (CAD) system to speed up the selection of technological setups for the cutting machine by finding these in the virtual environment at the design level.
Design/methodology/approach
This paper presents an application which has been created to simulate a pattern check on spiral bevel gears in the virtual environment. The pattern check is conducted on the CAD models obtained from the cutting simulation in the CAD system using technological settings calculated by the KONTEPS system. Check of the contact pattern in the virtual environment works in the same way as in the real production process. The application has been written in C# programming language and run in the NX open environment in the UG NX.
Findings
This paper shows the possibilities of how the CAD system can be used at the design level of spiral bevel gears to verify an unloaded tooth contact pattern position for applied technological setups for dedicated cutting machine.
Practical implications
This paper describes an application that has the possibility to be implemented in small companies which produce small lots of gear sets and help to decrease the time for setting a cutting machine.
Originality/value
This paper addresses the needs to find new technologies to improve the design process of the spiral bevel gears.
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Jialu Liang, Honglian Cong, Zhe Gao, Aijun Zhang and Zhijia Dong
The weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric has the characteristics of complicated design principle and hard technical design. The purpose of this paper is to realize the…
Abstract
Purpose
The weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric has the characteristics of complicated design principle and hard technical design. The purpose of this paper is to realize the computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric, and provide a certain reference for the development of this type of fabric.
Design/methodology/approach
The weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is divided into weft-knitted two-side similar pattern jacquard fabric and weft-knitted two-side independent pattern jacquard fabric. In order to achieve the purpose of this study, firstly, the structural characteristic of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is analyzed. Then, the design principle of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is studied. Next, the technical model of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is established. Finally, the CAD flow chart of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is proposed to realize the rapid product development.
Findings
Based on the above method, through the development example of weft two-side similar pattern jacquard fabric and weft two-side independent pattern jacquard fabric, the computer-aided design of the weft two-side jacquard fabric is verified.
Research limitations/implications
Because of limited research studies, three-dimensional computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric loop structure will be studied in the further research, and the technical design speed needs to be improved to meet the needs of large patterns and positioning patterns.
Practical implications
The computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric will offer a certain reference for product development, technical principles, performance research and computer simulation for the in-depth study of the fabric.
Social implications
The computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric will simplify the fabric design process and improve the efficiency of new fabric development, and provide the industries a time-saving and cost-saving approach for new fabrics development.
Originality/value
The author analyzes the structural characteristic of the fabric by the physical fabric, summarizes design principle of the fabric through production process, uses mathematical methods to establish a three-dimensional technical model of the fabric, and proposes the CAD flow chart of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric, which has good theoretical significance and practice of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric.
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J.S. Jo and S.C. Harlock
The development of an educational CAD system for the design of flat patterns for female apparel is described. The philosophy used in the development of the system is explained…
Abstract
The development of an educational CAD system for the design of flat patterns for female apparel is described. The philosophy used in the development of the system is explained, together with the structure of the system which includes on‐line help files, demonstration programs and tutorials with assignments to assist the novice user.
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