Search results

A survey of 100 young women's body measurements was undertaken during 1992/93. The findings are the basis of Part 3, which aims to explain how size charts are developed for garments; to evaluate the measuring equipment used and to compare the size chart body measurements with those proportionally derived by traditional formulae. A size chart is the artificial dividing of a range of measurements which are concise and consistent. There are different types of size charts. Some are of body measurement for specific proportion and shape. Others are for garments including ease allowances which vary according to the garment style and type of fabric. Size charts can be developed in three stages commencing with the raw survey data, which is then rounded to the nearest 1.0 cm or 0.5 cm and finally ease allowance is added for the finished garment. During the survey some measurements were repeated using different measuring equipment so that a comparison could be made to select the most suitable for pattern construction. The use of the anthropometer is limited as it can only take linear measurements. However, it is helpful when analysing body proportion, whereas the tape measures attached to the harness and a metal tape measure can record the contour surface of the body, which is more appropriate for clothing. The adjustable square and angle were a little difficult to position correctly but were useful to check the formulae used for pattern construction. A comparison is made between the survey body measurements and traditional formula to derive body measurements which are difficult to take. The dividing of the height by eight heads is useful for length proportions. The derived neck shape and survey measurements were comparable. Head measurements suitable for hoods were similar for all bust and neck sizes. Only the height showed any progression in size. This concludes the three articles which explain the taking of body measurements, methods of analysing the data and applying it to clothing pattern construction. It is hoped that this will aid those in industry and education who wish to undertake research and to develop new technology.

The purpose of this paper is to provide a theoretical model for considering ease numerically in the clothing pattern. Classifying the pattern as a geometric Cartesian coordinate system, this model proposes the need to quantify the partly coincident variables of ease, which will enable greater control over garment fit and function, using traditional or CAD/CAM methods.

The principles of pattern/garment dimensions are considered with support from analysis of literature and contributing factors to the variables of ease are categorised. These principles support a proposed theoretical model for considering pattern/garment dimensions, in the numeric format that they exist within the context of pattern construction.

Pattern construction occurs in a 2D Cartesian coordinate system, guided by body dimensions and ease. This can be modelled in the form of an algorithm relating to the placement of cardinal points defining the pattern outline. Recognition of the numerical nature of the pattern, suggests the need to quantify the coincident variables of ease, to achieve greater control over garment fit and function.

Few sources exist enabling the recognition of ease requirements in the pattern/garment and when guidance on ease is presented, there is little rationale as to how it has been established, or what contributes to its definition.

The paper shows how current methods of pattern construction can be modelled more effectively, recognising the geometric nature on which they are based. Modelling these relationships highlights where quantification can be provided, by existing knowledge or future research.

This ongoing research revolute the conventional clothing design process by garment constructions in truly three dimensions rather than in two dimensions by ways of pattern design. The aim of the research is to develop a computer‐assisted clothing design tool in complete three dimensions. It would provide the garment designers the capabilities of 3D basal garment creation, restyling, and static fitting analysis when wearing on a digital mannequin. The kernel of the design environment and the mathematical formulas used in garment creation are described, results and implementations will be presented later in part II of this paper.

In this paper, a mannequin‐based garment design and restyling tools in three dimensions is proposed. The tools are based on mathematical formulas which provide an intuitive way of computer‐aided garment design.

Free style creation on clothes is performed by the provided tools and its formulas behind. Feature‐based mannequin model is initially constructed by its features interpolation. The crucial girths on garment, for instances, collar girth and sleeve girth are generated from the neck girth and the armhole girth, respectively. Based on the feature girths on the mannequin, garment surface is “radial grown” from the digital mannequin. B‐spline surface, loft surface, and sweep surface are used to build blouse, sleeve, and collar for creation and restyling.

Basal garment is initially “grown” from the computer mannequin model, which means, size grading no longer becomes extra work. 3D restyling tool is then invoked to conduct versatile designs by exhibiting designers' imagination space. Static fitting analysis is easily performed by the corresponding features on the mannequin.

In this paper, a new three dimensions method in clothing design for clothes style creation and restyling in three dimensions on a digital mannequin model is proposed. In this research, a truly 3D garment design tool is developed in order to break through currently paper draft design concept.

Prior to implementing computerised pattern alterations for figuration on a commercial CAD system, a large database with reference to the standard graded patterns, the alteration movements and relevant information needs to be generated. There are many difficulties in creating grade rules and alteration movements, especially for the bust suppression and the shaped sleeve. In order to obtain sophisticated patterns with a good fit for MTM (made‐to‐measure) clothing, the authors' pattern alteration technique is a combination of pattern design construction and grading. The procedure is divided into ten stages and the practical verification was carried out in the form of seven case studies. In addition, drafting rules on the MicroFit system for automatic pattern generation are demonstrated by converting the numerical grade rules created on the GGT AccuMark system into body‐related formulae.

Examines the fifthteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

The study in this article aims to focus on a novel design concept of virtual 3D garment which is realized with the help of traditional patternmaking methodology and the CAD softwares in order to directly conceive the virtual clothing on a mannequin morphotype in cyberspace in consideration of the ease allowance between the body shape and the garment.

The method of acquisition of 3D human body was explained at first. Then the process of creation of garment 3D model associated with the draping technique was presented. The superposition of patterns from the 3D modeling and the traditional method used in industries was done in order to visualize the right results. At last, the dynamic validation of the garment was carried out in order to analyze the fitting results of try‐on simulation.

The 3D modeling technique method based on the draping technique shows that the garment fits perfectly to the body shape of the wearer.

For the ready‐to‐wear manufacture, this method can be also involved on the parametric mannequin in order to reduce the lifetime of development by eliminating the process of pattern grading in the future.

The originality of this article comes from the combination of the traditional draping technique with the advanced CAD softwares in consideration of the fitting and draping of the garment. This concept is used not only in the context of mass customized product but also in mass production for the ready‐to‐wear apparel industries. The patterns are directly adjusted in 3D and can immediately be tried on in 3D simulation. As a result, the process in 2D patternmaking design can be eliminated.

A significant garment restyling tool was developed to perform garment design in three dimensions. It provides the professional designers the abilities of 3D garment creation, restyling, omni‐angle visualization, and fitting evaluation on a digital mannequin model. According to the body tape‐measurements defined in ISO 8559:1999(E) and ASTM D5219‐99 (1999), the extracted feature lines on computer mannequin dominate the shape of the apparel and also its associated fitting results. In this paper, the garment creation by the provided interfaces and its outcomes based on the developed system kernel and its formulas described in part I of the paper is demonstrated.

In part II of this paper, a three‐dimensional garment creation and restyling software based on the kernel infrastructure and formulas is implemented.

Currently, three fundamental dresses, two basic collars, and sleeve are successfully implemented in the creation of free style mannequin‐made apparels. Fitting results in static status are easily performed by detecting the allowances along the body feature lines and its near by. The base of an intuitive 3D computer‐aided garment design and manufacture is gradually formed starting from here.

In this paper, it is proved that garment creation and restyling can be achieved in three dimensions. This work provides a solution to how to manipulate a modifiable geometry in three dimensions and provide a friendly tool for reshaping.

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and interaction to design 3D garments and 2D patterns. The proposed scheme has the potential to satisfy the individual needs of fashion industry, such as precise fit evaluation of the garment, interactive style editing with ease allowance and constrained contour lines in fashion design.

The authors first construct a parametric pattern-making model for flat pattern design corresponding to the body dimensions. Then, the designing 2D patterns are stitched on a virtual 3D mannequin by performing a virtual try-on. If the customer is unsatisfied after the virtual try-on, the adjustable parameters (appearance parameters and fit parameters) can be adjusted using the 2D–3D linkage editing with hierarchical constrained contour lines, and the fit evaluation tool interactively provides the feedback.

The authors observed that the usability and efficiency of the existing garment pattern-making method simplifies the garment pattern-making process. The authors utilize an interactive garment parametric flat pattern-making model to generate an individualized garment flat pattern that effectively adjust and realize the local editing of the garment pattern-making. The 2D–3D linkage editing is then employed, which alters the size and shape of garment pattern for a precise human model fit of the 3D garment using hierarchical constrained contour lines. Various instances have validated the effectiveness of the proposed scheme, which can increase the reusability of the existing garment styles and improve the efficiency of fashion design.

First, the authors do not consider the garment pattern-making design of sophisticated styles. Second, the authors do not directly consider complex garment shapes such as wrinkles, folds, multi-layer models and fabric physical properties.

The authors propose a pattern adjustment scheme that uses the 3D virtual try-on technology to avoid repetitions of reality-based fit tests and garment sample making in the designing process of clothing products. The proposed scheme provides interactive selections of garment patterns and sizes and renders modification tools for 3D garment designing and 2D garment pattern-making. The authors present the 2D–3D interactive linkage editing scheme for a custom-fit garment pattern based on the hierarchical constraint contour lines. The spatial relationship among the human body, pattern pieces and 3D garment model is adequately expressed, and the final design result of the garment pattern is obtained by constraint solving. Meanwhile, the tightness tension of different parts of the 3D garment is analyzed, and the fit and comfort of the garment are quantitatively evaluated.

The purpose of this paper is to build a mathematical model of men’s wear prototype, so that the computer can draw men’s wear prototype automatically.

First, the bust line, front and back center line, waist line, side seam, front chest width and back width line in the coordinate system are expressed by equations. Then, a parabola is used to establish a neckline curve, a linear equation is used to establish a shoulder oblique line, and a double ellipse is superposed to construct the armhole arc. Finally, all the garment prototype curves are built mathematical models.

The result shows that every curve of garment prototype can be expressed approximately by mathematical model.

This research lays the foundation for the automation and intelligence of garment pattern-making.

Examines the fourteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.