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The purpose of this paper is to quantitatively evaluate the effect of adhesive interlining on the appearance of tailored jackets with different rigidity.

Four tailored jackets having the same pattern and fabric and three different adhesive interlinings or no adhesive interlining were prepared as experimental samples. Criteria and characteristics for assessing jacket appearance were investigated in sensory tests. A paired comparison of the jacket appearance was conducted using a ranking method. Smoothness and constriction values were proposed and obtained using three-dimensional shape data. The smoothness value refers to the degree of wrinkling on the jacket surface and the constriction value refers to the degree of constriction of the waistline. A quantitative assessment model of jacket appearance was proposed using multiple regression analysis.

The sensory test reveals that the number of wrinkles, acceptability of wrinkling and degree of constriction of the waist are important criteria in the assessment of jacket appearance. The smoothness value for the front body and the constriction value of the waist partially agreed with the normal scores of sensory test results. Sensory evaluation values for the entire jacket appearance were estimated employing multiple regression analysis with the constriction and smoothness values. The values of jacket appearance estimated using multiple regression analysis were in good agreement with the sensory test results.

Criteria and characteristics to be used in the assessment of the appearance of a jacket with adhesive interlining were clarified. Employing the proposed methodology, it is possible to predict jacket appearance for different adhesive interlinings, quantitatively.

The purpose of this paper is to compare a set of product specifications to evaluate appearance and performance characteristics of denim jeans at three price categories, and identify any relationships between price and product quality.

This research is as a quasi-experimental laboratory study. The product specifications of jeans are identified. Next, the appearance and performance characteristics of jeans are examined initially and after one and five repeated laundering cycles. The data are analyzed within and between each price category to identify any possible relationship between price and product quality.

The price category of jeans does not necessarily reflect different dimensions of product quality. Although higher priced jeans had superior product specifications and visual appearance, they did not show superior performance with respect to all elements of fit, durability, and color performance when these three factors were measured through laboratory testing.

The limitations of this study from a research perspective include a small sample size, gender-focused sample selection. and the focus on only three retail categories. These limitations impact the generalizability of the results but could serve as a basis for similar studies. The evaluated product quality attributes were limited to intrinsic/measurable characteristics. Future studies should consider the extrinsic attributes of quality, especially as they are related to consumer’s purchasing decision.

Retailers in moderate and budget price categories can benefit from educating consumers about the quality attributes of jeans that would ultimately influence their post-purchase experience and are not necessarily related to the product’s price category. Educators can use this information to assist in teaching students about the multiple dimensions of materials and assembly choices, and how this will impact their final products as they are learning the apparel product development process.

The focus of this study on the quantification of intrinsic product attributes is unique and provides measurable data for product evaluation by consumer researchers and industry. The results of this research identify the strengths and weaknesses in the appearance and performance characteristics of jeans in different price categories, and how those may affect consumers’ purchase intention.

The purpose of this paper is to develop an efficient termination control strategy of air-vented dryer in term of energy saving, improving smoothness and reducing microscopic damage of fiber.

A simple, low cost termination control strategy is developed by testing the instantaneous humidity of exhaust air and then deducing the drying degree of fabric in process. The practicability evaluation of this novel strategy was investigated by using both experimental and mathematical approaches. The effect of termination control strategy on drying efficiency and fabric apparent properties were also discussed.

Termination control strategy significantly affects drying time, energy consumption, smoothness and microscopic of fiber. Specially, a novel termination control strategy that the combination of equilibrium moisture content of fabric in ambient environment and relative humidity of exhaust air in exhaust duct is workable and can save 25.2 percent of energy consumption, 26.7 percent of the drying time and improve 0.7 grade of the appearance smoothness, as well as significantly reduce the microscopic damage of fiber compare to the original control strategy of dryer. This indicates possible ways to minimize drying energy consumption and dryer damage by reducing unnecessary migrate out of the water from the clothes.

The paper is helpful in not only the development of new drying product but also the optimization of appearance smoothness of fabric after drying and reduce the microscopic damage of fiber.

A novel termination control strategy of dryer is applied to improve drying efficiency of dryer and reduce fabric damage.

Cellulosic fabric and plain weave are the most commonly used material in home textiles. The poor wrinkling, dimensional stability and pilling are some of the problems faced during usage. The textile industries apply resin finish to improve these characteristics. The purpose of this study is to improve pilling resistance, dimensional stability and smoothness appearance (SA) of rayon and rayon/cotton plain fabrics using different concentrations of dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU) and acrylic copolymer. The finish was fixed using two different fixation methods.

Three concentrations, 40, 100 and 150 g/l of Arkofix NF (DMDHE based) and Appretan N9211 (acrylic copolymer), were taken. The finish was applied at normal and shock cure. The effects of finish on pilling resistance, dimensional stability, smoothness, tear strength, light fastness, Berger whiteness and yellowness index of plain fabrics were investigated.

The changes in the characteristics of the finished fabrics were compared with unfinished fabrics. This study revealed that at 40 g/l of Arkofix NF and Appretan N9211 using a normal cure would improve the pilling resistance, dimensional stability and SA of the plain fabrics. Whereas, there was no adverse effect observed on tear strength, light fastness, Berger whiteness and yellowness index of plain fabrics at these conditions.

Unlike the previous studies, this paper proposed the single finish formulation where the functional characteristics of the plain rayon and rayon cotton fabrics meet the general requirement of a customer.

Low pilling and wrinkle-free appearance of cellulosic fabrics are always demanded. Resin finishes are applied to improve these properties, but there is an adverse effect of the resin finish as it tends to reduce the strength of the fabrics. Therefore, the effect of the two most important finishes; anti-pilling and resin finish, on the strength characteristics of 100% viscose and 50:50 Viscose/cotton plain and satin fabrics were investigated in this paper. The purpose of this study is to identify significant factors affecting the strength of fabrics finished with crosslinking agents [non-ionic acrylate copolymer and (dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea)].

A statistical model of 2³ 3² mixed level factorial design was used for the study. Appratan N9211 (A) and Arkofix NF (B) were tested at three concentrations, whereas three factors fabric; weave (C), blend ratio (D) and curing method (E) were tested at two levels. The performance of the finish was evaluated by two response variables, which were tensile and tear strength.

The various conditions of high strength values of the fabrics were presented in this paper. It was found that the tear strength of the fabrics increased after finishing except for 50:50 viscose/cotton plain fabric, whereas the tensile strength of plain fabrics is better at shock cure and for a satin normal cure is better. The model adequacy plots exhibit that the assumptions of normality and independence are not desecrated. Moreover, the values of “predicted R²” are in reasonable agreement with the “adjusted R²,” which confirms that models have been accounted for most of the inconsistency.

This paper is a part of my PhD dissertation. Unlike the previous studies, this paper investigated the effect of two crosslinking agents, Appretan N9211 as anti-pilling and Arkofix NF as wrinkle resistant agents on 100% viscose and 50:50 viscose/cotton plain and satin. Three different concentrations of both the crosslinking agents were used. Also, fixation of the finishes was carried out at a normal cure and shock cure.

Background In the language of the steel industry, the term coated steel means, for all practical purposes, mild steel sheet or strip which is coated before it leaves the steel mill. Various coatings are employed depending upon product end use but basically they divide up into metallic coatings such as tin, zinc or aluminium; and organic coatings which are essentially paints or plastic films. Organic coatings are very often applied on top of metallic coatings, so that in the most advanced coated products there may be as many as five separate layers of material between the underlying steel and the exposed outer surface.

Presents the mechanical models of ring, rotor and air‐jet staple yarn formation. The analysis of formation peculiarities has enabled the establishment of differences among them in micro‐ and macrostructure as well as in their mechanical and physical properties. The comparison of yarn and fabric quality parameters will be very valuable for weavers, knitters, garment manufacturers, finishers and designers. Gives productivity, spinability and economic factors for ring spinning, OE‐rotor and air‐jet spinning processes.

The purpose of this paper was to develop a loaf bread enriched with naranjilla (lulo) fruit (shells, seeds and pulp) and determine the technical quality, sensory acceptability and bioavailability (by in vitro digestion) of antioxidant components.

Loaf bread was prepared by using a no-time bread-making process. The crumb moisture, specific volume, crust and crumb color, texture profile analysis, analysis of the crumbs' alveoli, sensory evaluation, in vitro simulation of gastrointestinal digestion and antioxidant capacity were determined. Data were analyzed with one-way ANOVA (α = 0.05).

The specific volume was reduced by 21% (4.62 cm3/g, p < 0.0001), and the hardness was increased by 70% (2.9 N, p < 0.0001). Enrichment of the bread with naranjilla fruit (NF) contributes a yellowish coloration to the bread, which was very well accepted by the consumers and could be considered a natural colorant alternative. Moreover, the sensory evaluation indicated that the analyzed attributes (appearance, color, odor, taste, firmness and overall quality) of the naranjilla bread presented scores higher than 6.5 of 9 points hedonic scale. Naranjilla in the bread formulation had good acceptability by consumers. Naranjilla-enriched bread had an increase in total phenolic (TP)compounds and total carotenoids. In the product without digestion, naranjilla bread increased 1.7 times for TP, 50 times for CT and 1.3 times for TEAC, compared to the control bread (p < 0.0001). The percentage of bioaccessibility for fresh bread without digestion was 39.2 and 53.9% for the control and naranjilla bread, respectively. The addition of NF contributes to a higher TP compounds content and favors its bioavailability.

For bread production, fruits that do not meet the quality standards to be consumed as a natural fruit can be used. In this way, these fruits can contribute as a potential use to reduce agro-industrial waste and as a natural colorant.

Naranjilla is a native fruit from the subtropical Andean regions, which has high ascorbic acid concentrations, making it a fruit rich in antioxidants. Naranjilla-enriched bread contributes with beneficial compounds for the consumer.

Purpose – The goal of my study is to investigate women's tattooing in a phenomenological way, and to go in-depth into a “handful” of cases with the purpose of discussing tattooed women's daily lives and experiences. The main purpose of this study is to contribute to the scholarly literature on the sociology of the body, and particularly to women and tattoos.

Methodology/approach – Open-ended conversational interviews and feminist phenomenological methods together shed light on the possible connection between gendered attitudes about women's bodies and tattoos and tattooed women's personal feelings of beauty and femininity.

Findings – In this particular chapter, I describe the connections between women's tattoos: (1) personal or individual beauty and (2) femininity. Findings show that although women tend to think that tattooing goes against current societal beauty norms and ideas of femininity, many women feel that their tattoos make them more beautiful.

Originality/value of chapter – This study offers important insights into the social experiences of extensively tattooed women and, therefore, contributes to a more sociological and gender-specific glimpse of women's lives and tattooing. My discussion of and findings on tattooed women's lived experiences, however partial, should promote wider conceptualizations of the tattooing phenomenon, allow a wealth of tattoo meanings and experiences to come into the spotlight, and point to new ways to study tattoos and gendered bodies in the future.

The study of fabric behaviour during its transformation from a two‐dimensional (2D) product into a three‐dimensional (3D) article of clothing is presented in this paper. Actual fabric transformation into a 3D article of clothing occurs in sewing processes, where the fabric is exposed to different mechanical loads and behaves accordingly. Fabric behaviour responses as an outcome of the mechanical loads to which it has been exposed, as well as their correlation with the parameters of the analysed fabric mechanical properties are investigated from this point of view. The system was designed for fabric behaviour prediction in garment manufacturing processes, based on wide fabric behaviour study. The ORANGE software tool used incorporates a lot of machine learning methods. On the basis of the input data (the parameters of mechanical properties) and input knowledge (fabric behaviour responses), it offers the prediction of fabric behaviour in garment manufacturing processes for the fabric selected.