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1 – 10 of over 1000Puspita Ayu Permatasari, Faruq Ibnul Haqi, Fitri Utami Ningrum and Triana Rosalina Dewi
From Batik cities to woven textile regions, Indonesia possesses several fashion destinations with remarkable textile heritage. The rise of fashion heritage destinations is…
Abstract
From Batik cities to woven textile regions, Indonesia possesses several fashion destinations with remarkable textile heritage. The rise of fashion heritage destinations is characterized by avid textile lovers and fashion followers that promote the regions. Several diversifications of tourism alternatives are analyzed, such as rural tourism with experiential textile-making workshops, urban destinations connected to contemporary fashion heritage, architectural works inspired from/to textile heritage, as well as fashion week cities that spark the interests of global fashion designers to visit the country. This chapter evaluates the current state, its rising challenges, and to what extent it may be promoted through digital technologies, based on local practitioners and the governmental perspectives.
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Atcharee Chantamool, Choopug Suttisa, Thom Gatewongsa, Apiradee Jansaeng, Narongsak Rawarin and Hanvedes Daovisan
This study aims to explore how indigenous knowledge, cultural heritage preservation and ethnic identity influence the production of traditional ikat textiles in northeast Thailand.
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to explore how indigenous knowledge, cultural heritage preservation and ethnic identity influence the production of traditional ikat textiles in northeast Thailand.
Design/methodology/approach
A qualitative research method used an ethnographic perspective with a realistic design. Purposive sampling was used to conduct 30 in-depth ethnographic interviews with members of Phu Thai ikat textile groups in Kalasin province. Interview transcripts were studied using thick descriptive analysis (themes, categorisation, coding and keywords).
Findings
The ethnographic study shows that natural dyeing, traditional crafts, materials, designs and patterns are used in Phu Thai ikat textile weaving. The results reveal that indigenous knowledge, cultural heritage preservation and ethnic identity are relevant to traditional ikat textiles.
Originality/value
To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this study uniquely focuses on a deeper theoretical understanding of indigenous knowledge and cultural heritage preservation, to sustain traditional ikat textiles.
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Marnie Collins and Marcia Weiss
The purpose of this paper is to analyse the role that provenance holds within the luxury textiles market. It defines similarities and differences in the perception and acceptance…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to analyse the role that provenance holds within the luxury textiles market. It defines similarities and differences in the perception and acceptance of provenance as a key strategy for luxury textile brands in the USA and the UK. Its purpose is to establish a framework of identifiable communication strategies for future growth of the luxury brand sector.
Design/methodology/approach
The study consisted of adopting an ethnographic approach to define the role of provenance within luxury brands in the USA and the UK. Attention was focused on textile heritage labels in the USA and in Scotland, to gain insight into how historic artisanship impacts the perception of luxury and authenticity by the consumer. Interviews with key strategists were conducted, and a comparison of the discussions disseminated.
Findings
The narrative behind a product, its authenticity and provenance, are key drivers in luxury textile brands, with the perception of quality of utmost importance. Long-standing companies have interwoven provenances with their spiritual birthplaces, people and environment which can be leveraged in product introductions and branding.
Practical implications
The paper provides a framework of key features of provenance to inform practitioners on dilemmas such as de-localization, re-localization and transcendence within the luxury brand sector.
Originality/value
The paper furthers academic research by investigating contemporary issues in luxury consumer behaviour; specifically in relation to the perception of provenance. While research focuses on Western luxury textile brands and consumers, it provides reference criteria and recommendations to luxury brand strategists that can be adopted and adapted for different fields and geographic locations.
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Examines the fifthteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…
Abstract
Examines the fifthteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.
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Examines the thirteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…
Abstract
Examines the thirteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.
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Examines the fourteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…
Abstract
Examines the fourteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.
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The term luxury and sustainability, within the fashion and textile industries are seldom seen as natural bedfellows. Recently however, the perception of luxury has begun to…
Abstract
Purpose
The term luxury and sustainability, within the fashion and textile industries are seldom seen as natural bedfellows. Recently however, the perception of luxury has begun to include a definition left behind in the twentieth century; beautifully hand crafted artefacts valued for the time, skill and design invested in them. It is possible though, for the concept of luxury textiles to embrace this definition and that of the sustainable credentials of a “Cradle to Cradle” (McDonough and Braungart, 2002) mindset (that of a life beyond original creation) and be fashionable. The paper aims to discuss these issues.
Design/methodology/approach
Utilising a variety of methodologies including case studies, reflective practice and a practice-based approach; this paper examines the use of pre-consumer waste in the creation of new luxury textiles. Several projects are cited, offering examples of collaboration between textile mills and designers in the creation of new fabrics made from luxury by-products. This luxury waste is routinely shredded for automobile seat filling or landfill, however current sustainable thinking encourages a more creative solution to this circumstance. Designers have a crucial role to play in converting an unwanted by-product to one that is highly desirable.
Findings
Traditional values of what constitutes a luxury item include the concept of time invested in making a unique handmade artefact. More recently, this premise has been overlooked in favour of branded goods. The slow fashion movement advocates the inherent value of craftsmanship coupled with the ethical use of sustainable and or local materials and processes. The traditional techniques of felting, weave and stitch are utilised to create beautiful, original textiles from discarded waste. By collaborating with local mills, designers provide solutions to something that could be perceived as a problem.
Originality/value
The embedded narrative within these layered textiles provides an original quality and added value, building on their Scottish heritage. The resulting textiles reflect their provenance; the landscape they come from and the people who created them. As a result of purchase, the story continues with the new custodian, adding to the ongoing history of the textile. The design work and collaboration that this paper outlines embodies a transferable model for sustainable upcycled luxury textiles.
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Francesco Mazzarella, Andrew May and Val Mitchell
This paper discusses how service design can be used to activate a transition of textile artisan communities towards a sustainable future.
Abstract
Purpose
This paper discusses how service design can be used to activate a transition of textile artisan communities towards a sustainable future.
Design/methodology/approach
Two participatory case studies were undertaken with textile artisans in the UK and South Africa. These led to the development of an original methodological framework for “crafting situated services” – services designed to be meaningful to the local communities within which they are embedded. An evaluation study assessed the originality of the framework, its relevance for tackling real-world problems, its extensibility and the rigour of the research process.
Findings
The framework brings together a variety of roles, methods and tools that designers can adopt in order to enter communities, make sense of sustainable futures, facilitate the co-design of situated services and activate legacies within communities. Building on emerging anthropological approaches, the framework makes a bridge between service management and service design for social innovation, advancing the field towards design for social entrepreneurship.
Originality/value
Arguing against the idea of the designer “parachuting” into communities to create services regardless of the local context, the concept of “situated services” is proposed in this paper, alongside a process for “crafting” meaningful social innovations. This requires the service designer to adopt a more situated and embedded approach to designing with communities in order to align with their needs and aspirations, interweave places, time, people and practices within the process, and co-design contextually better services.
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Achuthy Kottangal and Deepika Purohit
This study aims to analyze how conventional Bedouin weaving techniques have changed through the history of Israel, offering knowledge on the craft’s cultural relevance and…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to analyze how conventional Bedouin weaving techniques have changed through the history of Israel, offering knowledge on the craft’s cultural relevance and historical development among the Bedouin people and how their weaving and embroidery differ based on the three main geographic characteristics. It tries to comprehend the causes of the transition from organic to synthetic materials and the part played by the Lakiya Negev Bedouin Weaving women’s cooperative in maintaining this legacy.
Design/methodology/approach
The main goal of this study is to trace the emergence of Bedouin weaving traditions in the Negev Desert using a qualitative research methodology that combines historical analysis and ethnographic investigation. A thorough grasp of the subject’s significance is provided through the data gathering, which consists of interviews, archival research and field observations.
Findings
Through the years, Bedouin weaving techniques have significantly shifted away from using traditional organic materials in favor of synthetic replacements, according to the research. It emphasizes the crucial part played by the Lakiya Negev Bedouin Weaving women’s organization in safeguarding this traditional legacy and giving Bedouin women access to economic prospects.
Research limitations/implications
The limitation of the study includes its emphasis on the Negev region and the Israeli Bedouin community, which may not accurately reflect all Bedouin weaving techniques. Greater regional settings may be explored in future studies.
Practical implications
The investigation emphasizes the value of investing in initiatives for cultural preservation and the empowerment of underprivileged groups through economic possibilities.
Social implications
By preserving ancient weaving techniques, this research enables Bedouin women in the Negev Desert to maintain their cultural identity and socioeconomic well-being.
Originality/value
By emphasizing the socio-cultural dimensions and the organization’s role in preserving traditional craftsmanship in a changing socio-economic environment, this research presents a unique investigation of the evolution of Bedouin weaving techniques in Israel.
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