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Article
Publication date: 28 February 2023

Chaitali Brahma, Bhaskar Saha and Anirban Chowdhury

The purpose of this study is to understand the perception of the local weavers amongst the Bodos, a tribe of the North-east (NE) India. Towards this a concept of a service…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to understand the perception of the local weavers amongst the Bodos, a tribe of the North-east (NE) India. Towards this a concept of a service pipeline process in the field of heritage attire preservation of Bodo Dokhona was focused that would endorse the local weavers' community for its wellbeing and sustainability.

Design/methodology/approach

The design approaches have been framed after interactions with the local weavers through a survey conducted for understanding the issues pertaining to weavers. Towards sustaining the Bodo heritage attire Dokhona, a service design pipeline for better management system was developed in three phases. Interactions with the local weavers through survey and validation for its feasibility were undertaken.

Findings

This research paper focuses on publishing innovative survey research and practice related to cultural heritage management of the Bodo traditional wear Dokhona and sustainability conservation of the pipeline process. Therefore, developing both skill and knowledge for the weavers' community of the region.

Social implications

The design pipeline approach in this paper has been shared with the local weavers' for easy understanding of the step-by-step process of weaving a Dokhona made of eri silk. A progressive Bodo weaver will gain skill training which would lead to weavers' empowerment.

Originality/value

Developing and documenting an innovative service design approach. In this context, an insight for women empowerment leading to preservation of Bodo heritage is valued.

Details

Journal of Cultural Heritage Management and Sustainable Development, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2044-1266

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 26 March 2024

Achuthy Kottangal and Deepika Purohit

This study aims to analyze how conventional Bedouin weaving techniques have changed through the history of Israel, offering knowledge on the craft’s cultural relevance and…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to analyze how conventional Bedouin weaving techniques have changed through the history of Israel, offering knowledge on the craft’s cultural relevance and historical development among the Bedouin people and how their weaving and embroidery differ based on the three main geographic characteristics. It tries to comprehend the causes of the transition from organic to synthetic materials and the part played by the Lakiya Negev Bedouin Weaving women’s cooperative in maintaining this legacy.

Design/methodology/approach

The main goal of this study is to trace the emergence of Bedouin weaving traditions in the Negev Desert using a qualitative research methodology that combines historical analysis and ethnographic investigation. A thorough grasp of the subject’s significance is provided through the data gathering, which consists of interviews, archival research and field observations.

Findings

Through the years, Bedouin weaving techniques have significantly shifted away from using traditional organic materials in favor of synthetic replacements, according to the research. It emphasizes the crucial part played by the Lakiya Negev Bedouin Weaving women’s organization in safeguarding this traditional legacy and giving Bedouin women access to economic prospects.

Research limitations/implications

The limitation of the study includes its emphasis on the Negev region and the Israeli Bedouin community, which may not accurately reflect all Bedouin weaving techniques. Greater regional settings may be explored in future studies.

Practical implications

The investigation emphasizes the value of investing in initiatives for cultural preservation and the empowerment of underprivileged groups through economic possibilities.

Social implications

By preserving ancient weaving techniques, this research enables Bedouin women in the Negev Desert to maintain their cultural identity and socioeconomic well-being.

Originality/value

By emphasizing the socio-cultural dimensions and the organization’s role in preserving traditional craftsmanship in a changing socio-economic environment, this research presents a unique investigation of the evolution of Bedouin weaving techniques in Israel.

Details

Journal of Cultural Heritage Management and Sustainable Development, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2044-1266

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 April 2024

George Kwame Fobiri, Ebenezer Kofi Howard, Solomon Marfo Ayesu, Ama Kour Timpabi and Diana Oppong

The purpose of this study is to investigate the value of Ghanaian weaving art tradition to humanity from socio-cultural and economic points of view. This study sought to answer…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to investigate the value of Ghanaian weaving art tradition to humanity from socio-cultural and economic points of view. This study sought to answer questions such as “What is the interest of researchers regarding Ghanaian textile weaving art tradition?”, “To what extent has weaving art tradition projected the Ghanaian culture?” and “What is the socio-economic value of Ghanaian weaving art tradition?”

Design/methodology/approach

The systematic literature review approach was used to analyse data obtained from the Scopus online database. The PRISMA framework was adopted to select 22 relevant studies for analysis and conclusions. Also, the VOSviewer software was used to analyse and understand the co-occurrence of keywords.

Findings

It was revealed that Ghanaian weaving art tradition stands as a major craft that projects Ghana globally. Researchers around the world keep adding knowledge on Ghanaian traditional weaving and its value to humanity, resulting in a significant rise recently in the publication trend. Also, the rich cloth from the art is celebrated annually to invite people around the globe to learn the Ghanaian culture for social development. This study again found that traditional weaving serves as a major source of income for weavers and marketers of indigenous Ghanaian woven fabrics.

Practical implications

The findings of this study serve as a wake-up call to the Government of Ghana, institutional actors and national leaders to practically engage in the projection of the local art by playing individual roles such as financially supporting the craftsmen, initiating and implementing appropriate policies and displaying the local cloth on international occasions. This will make the local art more attractive for effective marketing and cultural preservation.

Originality/value

With reliable information extracted from the Scopus online database, this study presents original results and makes appropriate suggestions worth adopting for the improvement of the Ghanaian weaving art tradition.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 3 January 2023

Atcharee Chantamool, Choopug Suttisa, Thom Gatewongsa, Apiradee Jansaeng, Narongsak Rawarin and Hanvedes Daovisan

This study aims to explore how indigenous knowledge, cultural heritage preservation and ethnic identity influence the production of traditional ikat textiles in northeast Thailand.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to explore how indigenous knowledge, cultural heritage preservation and ethnic identity influence the production of traditional ikat textiles in northeast Thailand.

Design/methodology/approach

A qualitative research method used an ethnographic perspective with a realistic design. Purposive sampling was used to conduct 30 in-depth ethnographic interviews with members of Phu Thai ikat textile groups in Kalasin province. Interview transcripts were studied using thick descriptive analysis (themes, categorisation, coding and keywords).

Findings

The ethnographic study shows that natural dyeing, traditional crafts, materials, designs and patterns are used in Phu Thai ikat textile weaving. The results reveal that indigenous knowledge, cultural heritage preservation and ethnic identity are relevant to traditional ikat textiles.

Originality/value

To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this study uniquely focuses on a deeper theoretical understanding of indigenous knowledge and cultural heritage preservation, to sustain traditional ikat textiles.

Details

Global Knowledge, Memory and Communication, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2514-9342

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 25 May 2022

Rudith Sylvan King, Eric Kwame Simpeh, Henry Mensah and Elfreda Nerquaye-Tetteh

Kente weaving business is increasingly seen as a promising investment and enhances sustainable livelihood in Ghana. However, it has not received the needed attention from scholars…

Abstract

Purpose

Kente weaving business is increasingly seen as a promising investment and enhances sustainable livelihood in Ghana. However, it has not received the needed attention from scholars and government in recent times. The purpose of this study is to examine the factors influencing the kente weaving industry with the aim of evolving effective promotional strategies to encourage the weaving and use of kente in Ghana.

Design/methodology/approach

Using a quantitative inquiry approach, primary data were collected from 70 respondents in Bonwire within the Ejisu-Juabeng Municipal Assembly in Ghana. The mean ranking technique, the Mann–Whitney U test and exploratory factor analysis (EFA) were the statistical tools that aided the data analysis.

Findings

The EFA revealed that the underlying threats affecting the weaving of kente were limited demand and supply of kente, data and motivation management system, lack of export promotion and obsolete production techniques. Furthermore, this study revealed that the kente weaving industry can be promoted through kente festivals and the efforts of the association of weavers and government.

Originality/value

The findings provide a valuable reference for the government, stakeholders and textile industrialists to institute a mechanism for evaluating performance periodically to identify threats associated with the textile industry at large.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 9 June 2011

Dilek Hattatoglu

Purpose – This chapter aims to explore and discuss how women paid and unpaid labor in weaving is positioned in the flexible production chain in the context of local…

Abstract

Purpose – This chapter aims to explore and discuss how women paid and unpaid labor in weaving is positioned in the flexible production chain in the context of local development.

Methodology/approach – It is based on a research11Report on Effects and Results of the Relationships between Manufacturers and Local Weavers on the Local Social Structure: Cases of Mugla/Yesilyurt, Istanbul/Sile and Kastamonu in collaboration with Asuman Turkun-Erendil and supported by Mugla University Research Projects Unit, 2006 (unpublished project report). study, using mainly oral history methods, of three weaving centers in Anatolia in their attempts to achieve local development through the restructuring of their traditional craft.

Findings – This study shows how a flexible production process is organized in ways in which women's labor is almost always positioned as cheap and insecure. In this process, through production of hegemonic discourses, symbolic capital of secure women's work is drastically decreased and that of the production activity itself (weaving) is increased. It also discusses how the state as the main carrier of symbolic violence, plays an important role in expansion of flexible production and informality directly (with its policies applied in its own enterprises) or indirectly (with its policies in general).

Originality/value of paper – By focusing on the mechanisms through women's labor is kept cheap or unpaid in the organization of the entire production process and also on the relationships between women's labor and the state in local development context, critical points for future discussion and policy-making are raised.

Details

Analyzing Gender, Intersectionality, and Multiple Inequalities: Global, Transnational and Local Contexts
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-0-85724-743-8

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 17 February 2022

Anggraeni Permatasari, Wawan Dhewanto and Dina Dellyana

Indonesian woven craft small- and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) have encountered several difficulties in sustaining their success in the digital era. The performance of the…

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Abstract

Purpose

Indonesian woven craft small- and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) have encountered several difficulties in sustaining their success in the digital era. The performance of the business is contingent upon its ability to gain competitive advantage through traditional knowledge capabilities. The purpose of this research is to study the role of traditional knowledge management processes towards competitive advantage and sustainable performance for woven craft SMEs.

Design/methodology/approach

This research used a quantitative approach with a survey strategy. Confirmatory research was conducted to test five hypotheses to determine the causal relationship of four variables, namely, traditional knowledge management, dynamic capabilities, competitive advantage and sustainable performance. This study used a purposive sampling strategy and gathered data from 385 respondents. The sample was selected based on predetermined criteria, including operation for more than five years and entrepreneurial activity using traditional knowledge as a resource to manage product innovation. The analytical technique used was structural equation modelling with the support of the AMOS programme.

Findings

The findings indicated that traditional knowledge management processes directly affect dynamic capabilities and sustainable performance. This study also found traditional knowledge management processes play a significant role in enhancing competitive advantage mediated by dynamic capabilities. However, traditional knowledge management processes have no significant effect on competitive advantage. Hence, there is a significant effect contributed by the relationship between traditional knowledge management processes and sustainable performance. Therefore, in the context of craft woven SMEs, the higher the traditional knowledge-based capabilities, the higher their sustainable performance.

Originality/value

The novelty shows a direct relationship between traditional knowledge management processes and sustainable performance. This study also found traditional knowledge management processes meditated by dynamic capabilities have a relationship with competitive advantage. Traditional knowledge management processes will trigger an increase in dynamic capability which is a source of business development; those conditions will increase sustainable performance. Traditional knowledge-based capability is an antecedent of sustainable performance. The benefits of this research can be used as scientific literature regarding the link between traditional knowledge management processes, competitive advantage and sustainable performance. The results of this study can also be used as a basis for empowering traditional woven craft SMEs in Indonesia.

Details

Journal of Enterprising Communities: People and Places in the Global Economy, vol. 17 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1750-6204

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 March 2014

Preeya Patichol, Winai Wongsurawat and Lalit M. Johri

– The purpose of this paper is to substantiate Porter's ideas through multiple case studies of firms in one of Thailand's potential niches – Thai silk.

1602

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to substantiate Porter's ideas through multiple case studies of firms in one of Thailand's potential niches – Thai silk.

Design/methodology/approach

This study examined upgrading strategies adopted by six companies involved in the production and distribution of silk and silk products in Thailand. Information was gathered from company documents and interview statements given by company executives and government policy makers. Standard approaches to organizing and analyzing qualitative case study data, including description, pattern identification, concept categorization and generalization were utilized.

Findings

The companies have implemented upgrading strategies in the following four main areas: first, balancing efficiency and old customs in production; second, innovating new products while preserving unique traditional features; third, developing modern marketing and distribution techniques with a cultural flare; and fourth, building linkages and clusters.

Practical implications

Stakeholders of traditional- or cultural-related industries may increase their chances of successfully renewing their businesses’ competitive advantage by carefully balancing the needs to both preserve and modernize key processes in their industries’ value chains.

Originality/value

The paper's findings and recommendations may to be useful to other traditional industries that share similar challenges both in Thailand and in other Southeast Asian countries.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, vol. 18 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 June 1988

John Black and Peter Ackers

This article reports on a new strategy for labour control in a British carpet factory, brought about under the pressure of the recession. The key characteristics of this approach…

Abstract

This article reports on a new strategy for labour control in a British carpet factory, brought about under the pressure of the recession. The key characteristics of this approach have a number of similarities with the Japanese model of labour relations. Quality circles are the only overtly Japanese feature at the company, although the new economic and political conditions within Britain may have created the conditions for the absorption of Japanese values and ideas.

Details

Employee Relations, vol. 10 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0142-5455

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 1997

S.V. Lomov, B.M. Primachenko and N.N. Truevtzev

Presents general properties and examples of weaves for two‐component multilayered woven fabrics. Such fabrics have a combination of properties which it is difficult to achieve in…

Abstract

Presents general properties and examples of weaves for two‐component multilayered woven fabrics. Such fabrics have a combination of properties which it is difficult to achieve in traditional fabrics (bulk combined with good tenacity, high cover level with porosity), can be used in liningless garments and can cope with ergonomical restrictions when using fibres with special protective properties. Describes a CAD system which can be used as an aid for a technologist to choose yarns for warp and weft, fabric weave and picks/ends count to meet demands specified by a particular fabric usage. It employs a new method of coding of multilayered fabric structure; mathematical methods used are based on the mechanical model of yarns interaction in a fabric. This describes the spatial disposition of yarns which allows production of any desired images of fabric geometry, i.e. surface smoothness or shape of pores. Discusses the complex nature of porosity of multilayered fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 9 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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