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A test method and instrumentation have been developed to facilitate the identification of potential appearance problems and for the development of improved fabric pressing performance. The method determines the fabric pressing performance with a greater degree of certainty than using a steam press. The weft “pressing performance” crease angle, as measured by the test method developed by CSIRO, in cooperation with IWS (Biella Technical Centre) and the Italian industries, combined with warp formability, as measured by SIROFAST, were found to be the two fabric properties most important for the prediction of the acceptability and appearance of a range of high quality men’s suits. It also appears that a good pressing performance can partly compensate for the seam pucker symptoms of low formability.

Describes the FAST system, developed by CSIRO for quality control and assurance of fabrics. FAST, or Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing, consists of a series of instruments and test methods which are inexpensive, robust and simple to use. It measures properties which are closely related to the ease of garment making‐up and the durability of worsted finishing. FAST‐1 gives a direct reading of fabric thickness over a range of loads with micrometre resolution. FAST‐2 measures the fabric bending length and its bending rigidity. FAST‐3 measures fabric extensibility at low loads as well as its shear rigidity. FAST‐4 is a quick test for measuring fabric dimensional stability, including both the relaxation shrinkage and the hygral expansion.

Creases are marks that are created and left in a fabric during garment wear. Pressing is a process to flatten garment panels and sharpen garment edges and pleats. To minimize crease, the fabric should recover after pressing without creating a creased edge. Whereas, good pressing performance means the creased edge stays sharp after pressing. Good crease recovery and pressing performance appear contradictory. However, crease recovery and pressing performance are different as creases are formed during wear and pressing is carried out using pressing equipment such as iron, pressing machines, etc. The condition, i.e. temperature and humidity, under which the creases are formed in wear and pressing are very different. The latter has much higher temperature, pressure and humidity. This paper reports on an experimental investigation on the relationship between the crease recovery and pressing performance of wool and other fabrics. It was found that there are only generally weak to moderate relationships between the crease recovery as measured by the Shirley Crease Recovery Tester and the pressing performance as measured by the Siro‐Press Tester. The characteristics of wool fabrics, which have both good crease recovery and pressing performance, are identified. This study is a step towards fabric engineering.

The press performance of a range of wool and wool blend fabrics has been investigated with the aid of a temperature adjustable hand steam iron, a domestic ironing board and a thermocouple digital temperature display.It was found that for a press duration of 10 seconds, the fabric crease angle is reduced with the increasing press temperature. The sharpest reduction in crease angle was found in the temperature range of 80°C to 120°C for all fabrics tested.At 100°C iron temperature, the fabric crease angle was reduced with increasing press duration until 20 seconds for wool fabrics and until 30 seconds for wool blend fabrics.The initial regain, or in other words, the relative humidity of the ambient atmosphere used to precondition the samples, has an important influence on the press performance. It was also found that the fabric crease recovery was greater for increasing ambient relative humidity.The fabric regain was greatly reduced during the first 10 seconds pressing time with further very slow reduction in fabric regain until 80 seconds pressing time. The regain in the upper layer of the fabric specimen was always lower than that in the lower layer.

A simple measurement of fabric pressing performance as indicated by crease angle has been developed and applied to the prediction of appearance of wool and wool blend tailored jackets. Industrial and laboratory trials have measured by the FAST system to give an assessment of garment appearance of lightweight fabrics after they are pressed.

This paper investigates the relationships between the fabric crease performance, seam retention and the low stress mechanical and constructional properties for a series of thirty-one suiting and trousering materials. A newly developed test method (IWTO draft test method) and instrumentation for evaluating the fabric crease performance was used to compare with the commercial steam pressing (Hoffman pressing). This newly test method was further modified for examining the seam retention properties. It has been shown that seam retention properties are significantly related to the fabric crease performance and are not affected by the different testing methods used and grain direction. In fact, the low stress mechanical properties of fabrics were not significantly related to either fabric crease performance and seam retention properties.

In this paper, microbial transglutaminase (MTG) was applied to process silk fabric for improving its crease resistance under the prerequisite of maintaining other performances. Not only was the effect of MTG on silk fabric investigated through the Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FR), but analysis was also undertaken in the microcosmic structure of fibroin through the scanning electron microscope (SEM). Solo MTG treatment as well as compound treatments of MTG followed by hydrogen peroxide, protease and ultrasonic, all showed that MTG can improve the crease resistance of silk fabric. It also enhanced its tensile breaking strength or amended damage in the tensile breaking strength caused by pretreatments.

Simultaneously, comparison with other treatments showed that compound treatment of MTG followed by ultrasonic exerted a better coordinated effect and conferred better performances, which made the wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) increase by 17.4% and tensile breaking strength improve by 11.2% respectively. At the same time, other performances were still maintained well.

Reviews previous research on the effects of CEO compensation structure, outlines the criteria for relative performance evaluation (RPE) and notes the paucity of empirical evidence to support it. Reports a study of the use of RPE for US bank CEO compensation 1976‐1988; and its relationship to shareholder, market and industry returns. Explains the methodology and presents the results, which suggest that CEO pay is positively linked to firm performance, but negatively linked to market/industry performance; and that performance is positively linked to CEO option wealth. Adds that both the pay/performance link and the use of RPE increased after bank deregulation in the early 1980s. Considers consistency with other research and concludes that the reduction in compensation risk offered by RPE should reduce compensation cost and thus provide a good reason for the banking industry to increase its use.

Identifies three approaches to controlling the agent‐principal conflict for CEOs (market discipline, compensation structure and monitoring mechanisms) and reviews previous relevant research. Develops a mathematical model of the relationship between pay‐for‐performance sensitivity and external monitoring; and tests it on 1971‐1993 US data. Presents the results, which suggest that the sensitivity is significantly affected by monitors, growth opportunities and CEO share ownership. Considers consistency with other research and the implications of the findings.

Cellulose crosslinking is a very important textile chemical process, and is the basis for a vast array of durable press and crease-resistant finished textile products. Formaldehydecontaining N-methylol crosslinkers give fabrics desirable properties of mechanical stability (e.g., crease resistance, anti-curl, shrinkage resistance, durable-press), but also impart a loss of strength and the potential to release formaldehyde, a known human carcinogen. Other systems, such as polycarboxylic acids, have been tested with varying degrees of success. We have developed methods of forming ionic crosslinks that provide outstanding performance in crease angle recovery while completely retaining the strength of treated goods, without the potential to release any reactive materials of low molecular weight, such as formaldehyde.

Our work is based on the reactions of cellulose with materials that impart an ionic character to the cellulose; e.g., chloroacetic acid for negative charges or 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride for positive charges. These reactions produce ionic celluloses that can then absorb a polyionic material of opposite charge to form crosslinks.

Cellulose treated with cationized chitosan after carboxymethylation showed significant increases in crease recovery angles without a loss of strength.