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Wool fiber is accepted as one of the natural and renewable sources and has been used in the apparel and textile industry since ancient times. However, wool fiber has the highest global warming potential value among conventional fibres due to its high land use and high methane gas generation. This study aimed to recycle the wool fabric wastes and also to create a mini eco-collection by using the produced yarns.

This manuscript aimed to evaluate the fabric wastes of a woolen fabric producer company. Fabric wastes were opened with two different opening systems and fiber properties were determined. First, conventional ring yarns were produced in the company’s own spinning mill by mixing the opened fibres with the long fiber wastes of the company. In addition, opening wastes were mixed with different fibres (polyester, long wool waste, and Tencel fibres) between 25% and 70% in the short-staple yarn spinning mill and used in the production of conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns. Most of the yarns contained waste fibres at 50%. Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained and fabric properties were examined. Also, a fabric collection was created. A life cycle assessment (LCA) was made for one of the selected yarns.

At the end of the study, it was determined that it was possible to produce yarn and fabric samples from fiber blends containing high waste fiber ratios beyond 50%. All the woven fabric samples produced from conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns gave higher breaking, tearing and stitch slip strength values in the weft and warp direction than limit quality values of the company. In addition, abrasion resistance and WIRA steam stability properties of the fabric samples were also sufficient. Environmental analysis of the recycling of the wastes showed a possible decrease of about 9940034.3 kg CO2e per year in the global warming potential. In addition, fiber raw material expenses reduced yarn production cost about 50% in case of opened fabric waste usage. However, due to insufficient pilling resistance results, it was decided to evaluate the woven fabrics for the product groups such as shawls and blankets, where pilling resistance is less sought.

The original aspects of the article can be summarized under two headings. First, there are limited studies on the evaluation of wool wastes compared to cotton and polyester fibres and the number of samples examined was limited. However, this study was quite comprehensive in terms of opening type (rag and tearing), spinning systems (long and short spinning processes), fiber blends (waste 100% and blends with polyester, long wool waste and Tencel fibres) and yarn counts (coarser and finer). Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained using different colour combinations and weave types. All processes from fabric waste to product production were followed and evaluated. Life cycle assessment (LCA) and cost analysis was also done. The second unique aspect is that the problem of a real wool company was handled by taking the waste of the woolen company and a collection was created for the customer group of the company. Production was made under real production conditions. Therefore, this study will provide important findings to the research field about recycling, sustainability etc.

In everyday life, people generally wear two layers of clothes (a knitted vest and a knitted t-shirt) during the summer. It is essential to understand which types of innerwear and outerwear maximize comfort. The primary objective of this research is to investigate the influence of layering outerwear on innerwear, as well as the air gap between two layers, on thermal comfort properties.

In this study, a total of 12 combinations were created from four vest fabrics and three T-shirt fabrics. The thermal properties (thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity, thermal diffusion and peak heat flow) were evaluated for the individual inner and outer layers. Each inner layer was layered with an outer layer to observe the effect of layering on the thermal properties. An air gap of 2 mm was introduced between the inner and outer layers to study the effect of air gap on thermal properties.

Tencel fibre exhibits higher thermal conductivity and absorptivity than cotton and polyester. Upon layering an outer layer on an inner layer, the thermal conductivity and thermal absorptivity increase to a slight extent, thermal resistance and diffusion increase drastically and the peak heat flow reduces. With an air gap between the two layers, the thermal conductivity did not improve, the difference in thermal resistance among all the combinations reduced, the thermal absorptivity of the combination textiles was lower than that of the innerwear alone, the thermal diffusion increased and the peak heat flow diminished for all the combinations.

In practice, this comprehensive thermal comfort analysis provides specific combinations of inner and outer articles of clothing that are most appropriate for enhancing comfort during the summer season.

Though there are many studies on the effect of multilayer fabrics on thermal properties, no extensive research analyses the influence of innerwear and outerwear combinations on thermal comfort properties.

This research aims to investigate how organisational and contextual factors affect supply chain collaboration and how that, in turn, influences firms' competitive advantage in the garment industry in the context of Vietnam, a developing country.

Following a qualitative research design, in-depth interviews were conducted with senior managers who are involved in supply chain collaboration in twelve garment companies in Vietnam. The data were recorded, transcribed and analysed using NVivo 12. Based on the literature and interview findings, a research model underpinned by the relational view (RV) and institutional theories, with organisational and contextual factors being the antecedents and competitive advantage as the outcome of supply chain collaboration, was proposed.

The findings showed that organisational and contextual factors induce both internal, supplier and customer supply chain collaboration. There is also a positive relationship between supply chain collaboration and competitive advantage. Based on these findings, a strategy matrix for supply chain collaboration is also put forward.

This is one of the first empirical attempts to investigate the role of organisational and contextual factors as potential antecedents of supply chain collaboration and its effects on competitive advantage in the garment industry. The research is expected to enrich both the literature and management practices on supply chain collaboration in the context of developing countries.

The comfort of apparel is not only a feeling of perception but also a tangible measure. The fit and fabric of clothing can exert a perception of comfort for the wearer, whereas actual comfort largely depends on physiological and emotional soothing. However, there is still no solid work on connecting the bridge between physiological and emotional feelings to the comfort of clothing. In this study, we have conceptualized, formulated and proven the relation between physiological and emotional parameters with clothing fit and fabric to find the true comfort of the wearer.

A mixed-method research design using physiological and emotional parameters for different fabric and fit combinations were used for this study. The physiological comfort parameters (i.e. heart rate and respiration rate) are extracted from the subjects using gold-standard clinical devices for various fit and fabric combinations. For the emotional response, a survey was conducted for the same subjects wearing all the fit and fabric combinations. Statistical analysis and modeling were performed to obtain the results.

Physiological indicators such as heart rate are closely linked with user comfort. Due to the limitations in environmental control, the physiological changes obtained did not significantly vary for different fabric and fit combinations of the clothing. However, a significant change in emotional response indicated a definite relationship between different fabric and fit types. Based on the participants’ responses, weather conditions, size of the clothing item, types of fabrics and style also influence the participants’ choice of clothing.

The research was conducted to discover the relation between true comfort (physiological and emotional parameters) and clothing (fit and fabric), which is unique to the field. This study closes the gap and builds up the relationship, which can help introduce clothing comfort to users in the future. The findings of this study help us understand how fabric types (natural or synthetic) and clothing fit types (loose or fitted) can affect physiological and emotional responses, which can provide the consumer with satisfactory clothing with the suitable properties needed.

Natural extracts produced with Annona squamosa and Moringa oleifera leaves through the methanol-based solvent were coated on 100% cotton and 80%:20% polyester/cotton blends to improve the functional properties such as antimicrobial activity, wicking, stiffness and crease recovery of the fabric using an eco-friendly 1,2,3,4-butane tetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) crosslinking agent.

In this study, 100% cotton and 80:20% Polyester/Cotton fabrics with surface densities of 113.5 g/m2 and 101 g/m2 were treated BTCA. Eight different samples were produced by padding through the natural extracts. The FTIR investigation was performed on all the fabric samples. These coated fabrics were studied for their antimicrobial activity, wicking, stiffness and crease recovery properties.

It was found that the BTCA cross-linked fabrics showed higher antimicrobial activity against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. Similarly, the percentage crease recovery angle was higher for the Annona squamosa coated sample than for Moringa Oleifera leaf extract in both cotton and polyester cotton blend samples. Furthermore, no significant variation in stiffness values was discovered between the control samples of cotton and polyester cotton blend and its treatment one. It was interesting to note that treating the fabrics with cross-linker showed improved vertical wicking properties, which were closer to control fabric values. The study confirms that crosslinking the fabrics with BTCA has improved the functional properties of the fabrics. The zone of inhibition values of BTCA cross-linked moringa methanolic leaves extract coated cotton and polyester cotton blend were 6 to 6.5 cm, which was more than 50% higher than non-BTCA cross-linked fabric, and BTCA cross-linker has improved the vertical wicking properties.

The outcome of this study will help to gain a better understanding of BTCA cross-linkers for improving the functional coating on textile substrates.

This study was conducted to improve the natural extract coating on textile material with eco-friendly aspects, enhancing the commercial utility of these finished fabrics

The purpose of this study is to explore the antecedents of uncaptured sustainable value and strategies to generate opportunities to capture it in the circular supply chain of post-consumer used clothing.

This study is based on an inductive analysis of 21 semi-structured interviews conducted with various stakeholders in the circular clothing supply chain (for-profit and not-for-profit) using the value mapping approach, as previously applied in the literature on sustainable business models.

Fifteen antecedents of uncaptured sustainable value, and thirteen value opportunity strategies were revealed that hinder or generate multi-dimensional value types. Economic value is impacted the most, while there is lack of explicit understanding of the impact of these antecedents and strategies on environmental and social value capture. From a multi-stakeholder perspective, the ecosystem is emerging as new for-profit actors are developing novel process technologies, while not-for-profit actors are consolidating their positions by offering new service options. There is also an emerging “coopetition” between the different stakeholders.

More granularity in the different types of uncaptured value could be considered, and external supply chain stakeholders, such as the government, could be included, leading to more detailed value mapping.

This research provides practitioners with a value-mapping tool in circular clothing supply chains, thus providing a structured approach to explore, analyse and understand uncaptured value and value opportunities.

This extended value perspective draws upon the value-mapping approach from the sustainable business model literature and applies it in the context of the circular clothing supply chain. In doing so, this research illustrates circular clothing supply chains in a new way that facilitates an improved understanding of multi-dimensional and multi-stakeholder value for embedded actors.

The purpose of this research is to ascertain the feasibility of fabricating polymer optical fibers (POFs) based textile structures by knitting with Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) based optical fibers for textile sensor application. It has long been established that by using the principles of physics, POFs have the capability to function as sensors, detecting strain, temperature and other variables. However, POF applications such as strain and pressure sensing using knitting techniques has since not been very successful due to a number of reasons. Commercially available PMMA-based optical fibers tend to be fragile and susceptible to breakages when subjected to stress during the knitting processes. Also light transmitted within these fibers is prone to leakage due to the curvature that results when optical fibers are interlaced or interlooped within fabric structures.

Using Stoll’s multi-gauge CMS 350 HP knitting machine, five fabric structures namely, 1 × 4 float knit structure, tunnel inlay knit structure, 3:1 fleece fabric and 2:1 fleece fabric structure respectively were used to knit sensor samples. The samples were subsequently tested for length of illumination and sensitivity relative to applied pressure.

The results of this preliminary study establish that embedding plastic optical fibers into a knitted structure during the fabric formation process for soft strain sensor application possible. The best illumination performance was recorded for tunnel inlay structure which had an average of 94 cm course length of POF being illuminated. Sensor sensitivity experiments also establish that the relative spectral intensity of the fiber is sensitive to both light and pressure. Problems encountered and recommendations for further research have also been discussed and proffered.

Due to resource limitations, an innovative technique (use of precision weight set) was used to apply pressure to the sensors. Consequently, information regarding the extent of corresponding sensor deformation has not been used in this initial analysis.

Because the fundamental step toward finding a solution to any engineering problem is the acquisition of reliable data, and considering the fact that most of the popular technologies used for soft textile sensors are still bedeviled with the problem of signal instability and noise, the success of this application thus has the tendency to promote the wide spread adoption of POF sensors for smart apparel applications.

As far as research on soft strain sensors is concerned, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first study to have attempted to knit deformable sensors using commercially available POFs.

As environmental protection and sustainable development become more widely recognized, greater emphasis has been placed on the significance of green supplier selection (GSS), which can support businesses both upstream and downstream in enhancing their environmental performance while preserving their strategic competitiveness. Therefore, this paper aims to propose a new framework to study GSS.

Firstly, this paper establishes a GSS evaluation criteria system including product competitiveness, green performance, quality of service and enterprise social responsibility. Secondly, based on the spherical fuzzy sets (SFSs), the Average Induction Ordered Weighted Averaging Operator-Criteria Importance Through Inter Criteria Correlation (AIOWA-CRITIC) method is used to determine the subjective and objective weights and the combination of weights are determined by game theory. In addition, the GSS framework is constructed by the Cumulative Prospect Theory-Technique for Order Preference by Similarity to Ideal Solution (CPT-TOPSIS) method. Finally, the validity and robustness of the framework is verified through sensitivity comparative and ablation analysis.

The results show that Y3 is the most promising green supplier in China. This study provides a feasible guidance for GSS, which is important for the greening process of the whole supply chain.

Under spherical fuzzy sets, AIOWA and CRITIC are used to determine weights of indicators. CPT and TOPSIS are combined to construct a decision model, considering the ambiguity and uncertainty of information and the risk attitudes of decision-makers.

The primary aim of this study is to identify and analyze the key digital transformation areas and determine their impact on technological unemployment in the textile sector. In addition, this study explores whether digital transformation contributes to neo-Luddism or Robot Breaking.

The advent of digital transformation has raised significant concerns, particularly concerning technological unemployment. This study focuses on conducting an analytical hierarchical process (AHP) analysis to determine the impact of different disciplines within digital transformation on technological unemployment. The investigation specifically delves into the ongoing transition to Industry 4.0 within the textile industry. This study uses a mixed-method approach, consisting of a literature review, bibliometric analysis, eight expert phenomenological interviews, and AHP.

This study revealed that artificial intelligence, machine learning and deep learning are the most crucial disciplines that will affect the concept of neo-Luddism. The fact that technological unemployment in the textile sector is examined with AHP Analysis makes this study unique.

This study contributes to Industry 4.0 literature by examining the nexus of technological unemployment in textile manufacturing and the emergence of neo-Luddism.

This research focuses on the development and characterization of oil-wetted spun-bonded polypropylene (PP) non-woven filters for improved air intake systems in automobiles. The study aims to enhance engine performance, durability, fuel economy and emission reduction by addressing key aspects such as contaminants filtration efficiency, loading capacity, pressure drop, temperature performance and longevity.

The research methodology involves the utilization of textile fabrics, particularly oil-wetted spun-bonded PP non-woven filters, renowned for their effective particle collection capability from intake air. Experiments were conducted using a Box–Behnken design with three variables – oil concentration, areal density and dust quantity – each at three different levels to establish correlations with the filter’s dust holding capacity (DHC) and pressure drop.

The findings indicate that immersing particles in oil-coated medium significantly enhances the filter’s DHC. Notably, castor oil as a coating demonstrates remarkable results, with a 97.53% increase in DHC and a high particulate matter filtration efficiency of 94.12%.

This study contributes to the originality of research by emphasizing the importance of oil density in determining the filter’s DHC and filtration efficiency. Furthermore, it highlights the superiority of castor oil over coconut oil-coated filter media, advancing air intake and/or filter systems for automotive engines.