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Article
Publication date: 27 July 2020

Xuan Luo, Gaoming Jiang and Honglian Cong

The purpose of this paper is to develop the relationship among the three-dimensional-shaped (3D) knitwear on the flat knitting machine in a three-dimensional (3D) design model and…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to develop the relationship among the three-dimensional-shaped (3D) knitwear on the flat knitting machine in a three-dimensional (3D) design model and the corresponding knitting in a two-dimensional (2D) pattern.

Design/methodology/approach

To do this, map functions are defined to convert the expression of the 3D-shaped knitwear to the horizontal and the vertical knitting. When the inverse functions of the map functions exist, one type is knitting in the 2D pattern can be determined with the aid of the knitwear expression in the 3D design model, when another type of knitting is in the 2D pattern.

Findings

The simulations indicate that the proposed scheme can implement the conversion from the 3D-shaped knitwear in the 3D design model to the corresponding knitting in the 2D pattern. In addition, the generated knitting by the proposed method can meet the technological requirements, which means that the knitting in the 2D pattern, converted by the proposed scheme, can be implemented in reality and the differences between the real knitwear can also be obtained as same as the map functions.

Practical implications

The generated 2D pattern can facilitate accelerating the design development of the 3D-shaped knitwear. Meanwhile, after accomplishing the 3D design, the relationship between 2D patterns in the two knitting directions is established through map functions.

Originality/value

Map functions proposed in this paper can be used in the 3D design model of the 3D-shaped knitwear so as to obtain the relatively accurate 2D paper appropriate for machine-knitting direction, which omits the process of designer's single 2D pattern after accomplishing the 3D design and saves the developing time.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 6 September 2021

Jingying Xu, Zimin Jin, Jing Jin, Lei Lei and Jianwei Tao

People have always been invaded by mosquitoes, and the development of new anti-mosquito fabrics has attracted much attention. The purpose of this paper is to study the effect of…

Abstract

Purpose

People have always been invaded by mosquitoes, and the development of new anti-mosquito fabrics has attracted much attention. The purpose of this paper is to study the effect of knitting process on the performance of anti-mosquito seamless fabrics and provide a basis for obtaining anti-mosquito seamless knitted fabrics with excellent comprehensive performance.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper uses bamboo–polyester mosquito repellent yarn containing wormwood extract as the face of seamless knitted fabric. The test factors include ordinary material in the face yarn, ground yarn material, seamless knitted structure and arrangement ratio of ordinary yarn and anti-mosquito yarn in face yarn. According to the quasi-level additional orthogonal test, 12 knitting plans are determined, and the mosquito repellent test and durability test are performed on the fabric.

Findings

The experimental results show that the optimal fabric for anti-mosquito performance is 12#, and the average repellent rate after washing 15 times is 58.57%. The corresponding process is that the face yarn is fully anti-mosquito yarn, the fabric is a single-sided mesh structure and the ground yarn is made of 4.4tex moisture-absorbing nylon/2.2tex spandex wrapped yarn.

Research limitations/implications

In this paper, there is still a lack of diversity in the selection of yarn materials and fabrics. In the follow-up research, the authors will use more fabrics and yarn materials for combination and experimentation and simulate and predict the mosquito resistance rate of knitted fabrics with different materials and structures.

Practical implications

The development of anti-mosquito seamless knitted fabrics with good comprehensive performance and the use of environmentally friendly wormwood repellents not only conform to the current people's healthy and environmentally friendly life philosophy, but also promote the development of the functional seamless knitted fabric market.

Social implications

In addition, seamless knitted fabrics have a huge market prospect, and many of their fabrics are used for sports underwear and outdoor wear. Therefore, the research and development of functional knitted fabrics will attract consumers to buy. While improving the wearing comfort, it can increase profits for the company.

Originality/value

The mosquito-proof functional seamless knitted fabric developed in this research has a high mosquito-proof rate after 15 times and can be used as underwear fabric or outdoor sports fabric.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 29 June 2018

Jiajia Peng, Gaoming Jiang, Honglian Cong, Xuan Luo and Yan Zhao

The whole garment technology offers a solution for the production efficiency by directly knitting a seamless tubular garment. Due to its complexity, high requirements and few…

Abstract

Purpose

The whole garment technology offers a solution for the production efficiency by directly knitting a seamless tubular garment. Due to its complexity, high requirements and few references, the technology has not been widely applied in mass production. Therefore, the purpose of this paper is to show garment technology’s detailed design method, the technique calculation process and its merits compared than common technology.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper first analyzes the knitting principle of the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine from its configuration. After that, the design method is putted forward as well as the technique calculation process. To reveal the advantages of the whole garment technology, this paper builds a comprehensive evaluation system by comparing the knitting time, labor cost and the yarn consumption.

Findings

With the evaluation system, the whole garment technology is proved to be more productive, cost-saving and less materials-consuming. Moreover, this advantage stands more out when the machine gage is higher.

Research limitations/implications

Due to limited research time and references, this paper only presents the whole garment technology for knitting common and traditional styles. More complicated and fashioned garments can be studied in the future research.

Practical implications

The design method and technology presented in this paper can be used as a reference for both the designers in the manufacture industry and the scholars for academic research works.

Originality/value

This paper has presented the whole garment technology and a specific method for technique calculation with consideration of garment structures. It also builds a evaluation system to show the advantages in terms of knitting efficiency, labor cost and yarn consumption.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 21 July 2020

Haisang Liu, Gaoming Jiang, Zhijia Dong, Fenglin Xia and Honglian Cong

The size prediction of garment is an important part in the process of the garment design and production, and it is also one of the most important features in warp-knitted

Abstract

Purpose

The size prediction of garment is an important part in the process of the garment design and production, and it is also one of the most important features in warp-knitted computer-aided design system. The purpose of this paper is to realize the auto-generation of the garment templates using JavaScript and WebGL technologies, based on the prediction of the size of warp-knitted seamless sportswear.

Design/methodology/approach

The warp-knitted jacquard technology is used to produce the warp-knitted seamless sportswear, which is divided into suits and tights. In order to achieve the purpose of this study, the dimensions of four kinds of jacquard patterns knitted under different knitting conditions are measured and the crosswise and longitudinal size shrinkage percentages are also calculated. Then, the relationship between the yarn count and the drawing density as well as the size shrinkage percentage is studied and a size prediction model for warp-knitted jacquard fabric is established. Next, according to the results of the size calculation, the point positions of the garment boundary in the mathematical coordinate system is determined. The color formula is built by the two-dimensional mathematical matrix. Finally, combined with the coordinate position and color information, the template can be drawn automatically.

Findings

Based on the size prediction model of warp-knitted garment, the template generation of warp-knitted full-form sportswear on WebGL-enabled web browser is realized, which is proven to be an effective computer-aided design method for warp-knitted garments.

Research limitations/implications

Because of limited researches, only two groups of yarns and four kinds of jacquard patterns were studied. A vaster database should be built and smooth curve, accurate coordinate needs to be optimized in the further research.

Practical implications

The size prediction model for warp-knitted jacquard garment and garment template auto-generation of warp-knitted computer-aided design system will simplify the fabric technical design process, shorten design time and improve the efficiency of new product development.

Social implications

The size prediction model for warp-knitted jacquard garment and garment template auto-generation of warp-knitted computer-aided design system will provide the industries a guidance for new sample development and it also can shorten the development time and lower cost.

Originality/value

This author analyzes the relationship between the size characteristics and knitting technology of warp-knitted jacquard patterns, proposes a model of size prediction and realizes the auto-drawing of the garment template in the warp-knitted CAD system, which provides a reference for the new product design and development of warp-knitted seamless sportswear.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 11 June 2018

Zhijia Dong, Gaoming Jiang, Guoming Huang and Honglian Cong

The virtual display of 3D garment is one of the most important features in a computer-aided garment design system. The purpose of this paper is to present a novel web-based 3D…

Abstract

Purpose

The virtual display of 3D garment is one of the most important features in a computer-aided garment design system. The purpose of this paper is to present a novel web-based 3D virtual display framework for the online design of warp-knitted seamless garment using the latest WebGL and HTML5 technologies.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on the feature-based parametric 3D human body model, the 3D model of skin-tight warp-knitted seamless garment is established using the geometric modeling method. By applying plane parameterization technology, the 3D garment model is then projected into corresponding 2D prototype pattern and a texture-mapping relationship is obtained. Finally, an online 3D virtual display application framework for warp-knitted seamless garment is implemented on modern WebGL-enabled web browsers using the latest WebGL and HTML5 technologies, which allow garment designers to globally access without installing any additional software or plugin.

Findings

Based on the 2D/3D model of warp-knitted seamless garment, an online 3D virtual display application running on modern WebGL-enabled web browser is implemented using the latest Javascript, WebGL and HTML5 technologies, which is proven to be an effective way for building the web-based 3D garment CAD systems.

Originality/value

This paper provides a parametric design method for warp-knitted seamless garment 2D/3D model, and web-based online virtual display of 3D warp-knitted seamless garment is implemented for the first time, which establishes the foundation for the web-based online computer-aided warp-knitted seamless garment design system.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 2015

Anna Paola Codini

This paper aims to investigate how the relationships among the different actors within the business networks affect the evolution of innovation along the different steps of…

1571

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to investigate how the relationships among the different actors within the business networks affect the evolution of innovation along the different steps of technology life cycle.

Design/methodology/approach

The study is supported by a longitudinal case study referred to a mechanical company operating in the knitting machineries industry. A triangulation method integrating multiple data sources in a multiple method design was used to gather data.

Findings

The longitudinal study supports the idea that interactions among the actors within the business networks heavily influence the technology evolution.

Research limitations/implications

Although the longitudinal case study reported in this paper refers to a period of time of about 10 years, our findings refer only to a single case study in a specific sector and so they cannot be generalized.

Practical implications

This paper provides important guidelines on how to manage the relationships emerging within a business network to influence the new technologies development.

Originality/value

The paper contributes to business networks literature, filling the gaps about how the relationships among the actors involved in a network can evolve over time and influence the evolution of technology in itself.

Details

Journal of Business & Industrial Marketing, vol. 30 no. 3/4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0885-8624

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 3 August 2015

Zhijia Dong, Gaoming Jiang, Zhiming Wu and Honglian Cong

The purpose of this paper is to develop a parametric design method for 3D human bodies to be used in computer-aided style design and the 3D presentations of warp-knitted seamless

1725

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to develop a parametric design method for 3D human bodies to be used in computer-aided style design and the 3D presentations of warp-knitted seamless garment.

Design/methodology/approach

In order to obtain 3D human bodies of different sizes, all of which have been based on anthropometric measurement, a human body model template was constructed by importing vertices and facets information in an OBJ model file which had been exported from POSER. A parametric model was then established by extracting feature information from the template model using a method combining 3D geometry analysis and human semantic analysis; this information included the template model’s feature points and measurements. By applying a mesh deformation method, based on the radius basis function interpolation, to the template model, different size human bodies were then generated according to user-specific anthropometric measurements.

Findings

The test results validated the method presented in this paper as a useful and effective approach to generate diffident size human models from a template model by modifying anthropometric measurements, which establishes a foundation for the style design and 3D presentations of warp-knitted seamless garments.

Originality/value

This paper provides parametric design methods for generating bodies of varying size according to different anthropometric measurements in the 3D domain, which is the basis of style design and 3D presentation for warp-knitted seamless garments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 September 2022

Fei Sun, Haisang Liu, Yuqin Din, Honglian Cong and Zhijia Dong

The purpose of this research is to propose a flexible sensor with a weft-knitted float stitch structure and to explore knitting techniques that allow conductive yarns to be…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this research is to propose a flexible sensor with a weft-knitted float stitch structure and to explore knitting techniques that allow conductive yarns to be skin-tight and less exposed, reducing production processes and increasing productivity. Study its electrical conductivity in different yarn materials, knit processes and deformation ranges. The analysis is compared to provide some basis for the design of the electrodes.

Design/methodology/approach

The method includes five operations: (1) Analysis of the morphological appearance, tensile variation, fiber material properties and electrical conductivity of high-elastic and filament silver-plated conductive yarns. (2) Based on the knitting process of the floating yarn structure, three-dimensional modeling of the flexible sensor was carried out to explore the influence of knitting process changes on appearance characteristics. (3) The fabric samples are knitted by different silver-plated conductive yarns with different structures. Processing of experimental samples to finished size by advance shrinkage. (4) Measure the resistance of the experimental sample after the machine has been lowered and after pre-shrinking. Use the stretching machine to simulate a wearing experiment and measure the change in resistance of the sample in the 0–15% stretching range. (5) Analyze the influence factors on the conductive performance of the flexible sensor to determine whether it is suitable for textile flexible sensors.

Findings

For the float knitted flexible sensors, the floating wire projection is influenced by the elasticity of the fabric and the length of the floating wire. Compared to the plain knitted flexible sensors, it has less resistance variation and better electrical properties, making it suitable for making electrodes for textile structures. In addition, the knitting method is integrated with the intelligent monitoring clothing, which saves the process for the integration of the flexible sensor, realizes positioning and fixed-point knitting.

Practical implications

The sensor technology of the designed weft-knitted float structure is varied and can be freely combined and designed in a wide range. Within the good electrical conductivity, the flexible sensor can realize integrated knitting, positioning monitoring, integrating into the appearance of clothing. It can also focus on the wearing experience of wearable products so that the appearance of the monitoring clothing is close to the clothes we wear in our daily life.

Originality/value

In this paper, an integrated positioning knitting flexible sensor based on the weft knitting float structure is studied. The improved knitting process allows the sensing contact surface to be close to the skin and reduces the integration process. The relationship between the exposure of the silver-plated yarn on the clothing surface and the electrical conductivity is analyzed. Within a certain conductive performance, reduces the exposed area of the conductive yarn on the clothing surface and proposes a design reference for the flexible sensor appearance.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 August 2022

Wei Yin

Zoning design of pressure comfort of women's shaping pants is studied in this paper based on the new material made by the LRJ40/1F warp-knitting machine.

Abstract

Purpose

Zoning design of pressure comfort of women's shaping pants is studied in this paper based on the new material made by the LRJ40/1F warp-knitting machine.

Design/methodology/approach

According to the distribution of body fat and the pressure comfort range of the shaping pants, zoning design is carried out. The pressure comfort of the women's shaping pants is tested by the objective pressure test and the subjective evaluation method.

Findings

The result is that using the method of zoning design can satisfy the comfort of the lower limbs while improving the mobility and plasticity.

Originality/value

Pressure comfort has become an important index to evaluate the comfort of elastic shaping pants. However, there were very few studies on the relationship between the pressure comfort of warp-knitted elastic pants and the design of jacquard organization in China and abroad.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 November 2021

Biqin Zhan, Xian Huang, Chenyuan Cai and Honglian Cong

Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new…

Abstract

Purpose

Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new development mode of fully formed knitted apparel with double-layer structure and fake two-piece knitwear is proposed.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on the upper body structure feature points of human body characteristics and single-layer knitted garment prototype, a double-layer structure knitted garment pattern was established by pattern expansion method. The model was introduced into SDS-APPEX3 design system for process design, including three aspects consists: the inner vest, the outer blouse and double-layer joint part, analysis of the process and forming principle. Weaving on four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine of MACH-2XS, through the setting of the machine parameters. Finally, a full-shaped fake two-piece knitted blouse was formed.

Findings

On the basis of single-layer knitted garment pattern, a double-layer garment pattern is constructed, and the design and weaving are completed on the four-needle bed computerized knitting machine of MACH-2XS and its supporting SDS-APPEX3 design system through the fake two-piece double-layer garment style design. The double-layer joint model is an effective reference for the construction of this kind of fake two-piece fully formed knitted clothing.

Originality/value

In this paper, a design and knitting method of fully formed double-layer structure fake two-piece knitted garment is proposed. The integrated knitting of fully formed double-layer structure sweater is realized for the first time, which provides ideas for the development of fully formed double-layer structure knitted clothing style and enriches the fully formed clothing style.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

1 – 10 of 256