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Article
Publication date: 3 June 2024

Duygu Yavuzkasap Ayakta, Şule Altun Kurtoğlu and Demet Yilmaz

Wool fiber is accepted as one of the natural and renewable sources and has been used in the apparel and textile industry since ancient times. However, wool fiber has the highest…

Abstract

Purpose

Wool fiber is accepted as one of the natural and renewable sources and has been used in the apparel and textile industry since ancient times. However, wool fiber has the highest global warming potential value among conventional fibres due to its high land use and high methane gas generation. This study aimed to recycle the wool fabric wastes and also to create a mini eco-collection by using the produced yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

This manuscript aimed to evaluate the fabric wastes of a woolen fabric producer company. Fabric wastes were opened with two different opening systems and fiber properties were determined. First, conventional ring yarns were produced in the company’s own spinning mill by mixing the opened fibres with the long fiber wastes of the company. In addition, opening wastes were mixed with different fibres (polyester, long wool waste, and Tencel fibres) between 25% and 70% in the short-staple yarn spinning mill and used in the production of conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns. Most of the yarns contained waste fibres at 50%. Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained and fabric properties were examined. Also, a fabric collection was created. A life cycle assessment (LCA) was made for one of the selected yarns.

Findings

At the end of the study, it was determined that it was possible to produce yarn and fabric samples from fiber blends containing high waste fiber ratios beyond 50%. All the woven fabric samples produced from conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns gave higher breaking, tearing and stitch slip strength values in the weft and warp direction than limit quality values of the company. In addition, abrasion resistance and WIRA steam stability properties of the fabric samples were also sufficient. Environmental analysis of the recycling of the wastes showed a possible decrease of about 9940034.3 kg CO2e per year in the global warming potential. In addition, fiber raw material expenses reduced yarn production cost about 50% in case of opened fabric waste usage. However, due to insufficient pilling resistance results, it was decided to evaluate the woven fabrics for the product groups such as shawls and blankets, where pilling resistance is less sought.

Originality/value

The original aspects of the article can be summarized under two headings. First, there are limited studies on the evaluation of wool wastes compared to cotton and polyester fibres and the number of samples examined was limited. However, this study was quite comprehensive in terms of opening type (rag and tearing), spinning systems (long and short spinning processes), fiber blends (waste 100% and blends with polyester, long wool waste and Tencel fibres) and yarn counts (coarser and finer). Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained using different colour combinations and weave types. All processes from fabric waste to product production were followed and evaluated. Life cycle assessment (LCA) and cost analysis was also done. The second unique aspect is that the problem of a real wool company was handled by taking the waste of the woolen company and a collection was created for the customer group of the company. Production was made under real production conditions. Therefore, this study will provide important findings to the research field about recycling, sustainability etc.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 June 2024

Meghana Kammeta and N.K. Palaniswamy

In everyday life, people generally wear two layers of clothes (a knitted vest and a knitted t-shirt) during the summer. It is essential to understand which types of innerwear and…

Abstract

Purpose

In everyday life, people generally wear two layers of clothes (a knitted vest and a knitted t-shirt) during the summer. It is essential to understand which types of innerwear and outerwear maximize comfort. The primary objective of this research is to investigate the influence of layering outerwear on innerwear, as well as the air gap between two layers, on thermal comfort properties.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, a total of 12 combinations were created from four vest fabrics and three T-shirt fabrics. The thermal properties (thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity, thermal diffusion and peak heat flow) were evaluated for the individual inner and outer layers. Each inner layer was layered with an outer layer to observe the effect of layering on the thermal properties. An air gap of 2 mm was introduced between the inner and outer layers to study the effect of air gap on thermal properties.

Findings

Tencel fibre exhibits higher thermal conductivity and absorptivity than cotton and polyester. Upon layering an outer layer on an inner layer, the thermal conductivity and thermal absorptivity increase to a slight extent, thermal resistance and diffusion increase drastically and the peak heat flow reduces. With an air gap between the two layers, the thermal conductivity did not improve, the difference in thermal resistance among all the combinations reduced, the thermal absorptivity of the combination textiles was lower than that of the innerwear alone, the thermal diffusion increased and the peak heat flow diminished for all the combinations.

Practical implications

In practice, this comprehensive thermal comfort analysis provides specific combinations of inner and outer articles of clothing that are most appropriate for enhancing comfort during the summer season.

Originality/value

Though there are many studies on the effect of multilayer fabrics on thermal properties, no extensive research analyses the influence of innerwear and outerwear combinations on thermal comfort properties.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 May 2024

Gizem Karakan Günaydın, Erhan Kenan Çeven and Nejla Çeven

The paper aims to provide an investigation about the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to provide an investigation about the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper evaluates the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics. Twill drapery fabrics with 18 Tex linen warp yarn where two types of weft yarns were utilized respectively with the order of “A” yarn and “B” yarn. 58 Tex Lyocell Linen blended first weft yarn (A yarn) was kept constant and the second weft yarn (B yarn) varied in different yarn structures and yarn count. Thermal comfort properties such as thermal conductivity, thermal resistivity, thermal absorptivity, fabric thickness were measured by means of Alambeta device. Correlation matrix between the thermal properties was also displayed. Air permeability results were obtained by using SDL Atlas Digital Air Permeability Tester Model M 021 A. One way analysis of variance (ANOVA) test was performed in order to investigate the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Findings

In this paper, weft yarn type was found as a significant factor on some of the thermal comfort properties such as thermal conductivity, thermal resistivity, thermal absorptivity, fabric thickness and on the air permeability properties.

Originality/value

There are limited works related to evaluation of some thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 July 2024

Heba Raslan, Khaled El-Nemr, Magdy Ali and Medhat Hassan

This study aims to investigate the influences of polyester fabric layers on the mechanical properties of SBR and devulcanized waste rubber composite materials, as well as the…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to investigate the influences of polyester fabric layers on the mechanical properties of SBR and devulcanized waste rubber composite materials, as well as the effect of gamma irradiation dose.

Design/methodology/approach

The devulcanized waste rubbers (DWR) were carried out by different methods. First, chemically, by two different reclaiming agents such as tetramethylthiuram disulfide (TMTD) and 2-mercapto benzothiazole disulfide (MBTS). Secondary by a physical method like microwave (MW). The devulcanized rubbers were mixed with virgin styrene butadiene rubber (SBR) in different ratios, as follows: SBR-DWR (TMTD) 50 / 50, SBR-DWR (MBTS) 80 / 20 and SBR-DWR (MW) 80 / 20. A series of sandwich polyester tire cord fabrics were used as reinforcement for making SBR and devulcanized waste rubber composite materials and molded on a hot press into rubber sheet films, then subjected to gamma radiation at different doses ranging from 100 up to 200 kGy.

Findings

The experimental results indicate that increasing the layer number improves the mechanical properties of composites. The tensile strength, tearing, hardness and elastic modulus of the rubber composites increased with the rise of the fiber layers and by increasing the irradiation dose up to 200 kGy. The reclaiming agent TMTD gave the best results for mechanical properties, followed by MW and then MBTS.

Originality/value

This phenomenon can be detailed based on the fact that when the fiber-reinforced composites are subjected to loading, the fibers act as load carriers, depending on the population and orientation of the fibers. Also, scanning electron microscopy (SEM) reveals that adhesion was caused by tire cord fabrics and rubber blend matrix.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 July 2024

Hyo Jung (Julie) Chang, Mohammad Abu Nasir Rakib, Md Kamrul Hasan Foysal and Jo Woon Chong

The comfort of apparel is not only a feeling of perception but also a tangible measure. The fit and fabric of clothing can exert a perception of comfort for the wearer, whereas…

Abstract

Purpose

The comfort of apparel is not only a feeling of perception but also a tangible measure. The fit and fabric of clothing can exert a perception of comfort for the wearer, whereas actual comfort largely depends on physiological and emotional soothing. However, there is still no solid work on connecting the bridge between physiological and emotional feelings to the comfort of clothing. In this study, we have conceptualized, formulated and proven the relation between physiological and emotional parameters with clothing fit and fabric to find the true comfort of the wearer.

Design/methodology/approach

A mixed-method research design using physiological and emotional parameters for different fabric and fit combinations were used for this study. The physiological comfort parameters (i.e. heart rate and respiration rate) are extracted from the subjects using gold-standard clinical devices for various fit and fabric combinations. For the emotional response, a survey was conducted for the same subjects wearing all the fit and fabric combinations. Statistical analysis and modeling were performed to obtain the results.

Findings

Physiological indicators such as heart rate are closely linked with user comfort. Due to the limitations in environmental control, the physiological changes obtained did not significantly vary for different fabric and fit combinations of the clothing. However, a significant change in emotional response indicated a definite relationship between different fabric and fit types. Based on the participants’ responses, weather conditions, size of the clothing item, types of fabrics and style also influence the participants’ choice of clothing.

Originality/value

The research was conducted to discover the relation between true comfort (physiological and emotional parameters) and clothing (fit and fabric), which is unique to the field. This study closes the gap and builds up the relationship, which can help introduce clothing comfort to users in the future. The findings of this study help us understand how fabric types (natural or synthetic) and clothing fit types (loose or fitted) can affect physiological and emotional responses, which can provide the consumer with satisfactory clothing with the suitable properties needed.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 February 2024

Saba Sareminia, Zahra Ghayoumian and Fatemeh Haghighat

The textile industry holds immense significance in the economy of any nation, particularly in the production of synthetic yarn and fabrics. Consequently, the pursuit of acquiring…

Abstract

Purpose

The textile industry holds immense significance in the economy of any nation, particularly in the production of synthetic yarn and fabrics. Consequently, the pursuit of acquiring high-quality products at a reduced cost has become a significant concern for countries. The primary objective of this research is to leverage data mining and data intelligence techniques to enhance and refine the production process of texturized yarn by developing an intelligent operating guide that enables the adjustment of production process parameters in the texturized yarn manufacturing process, based on the specifications of raw materials.

Design/methodology/approach

This research undertook a systematic literature review to explore the various factors that influence yarn quality. Data mining techniques, including deep learning, K-nearest neighbor (KNN), decision tree, Naïve Bayes, support vector machine and VOTE, were employed to identify the most crucial factors. Subsequently, an executive and dynamic guide was developed utilizing data intelligence tools such as Power BI (Business Intelligence). The proposed model was then applied to the production process of a textile company in Iran 2020 to 2021.

Findings

The results of this research highlight that the production process parameters exert a more significant influence on texturized yarn quality than the characteristics of raw materials. The executive production guide was designed by selecting the optimal combination of production process parameters, namely draw ratio, D/Y and primary temperature, with the incorporation of limiting indexes derived from the raw material characteristics to predict tenacity and elongation.

Originality/value

This paper contributes by introducing a novel method for creating a dynamic guide. An intelligent and dynamic guide for tenacity and elongation in texturized yarn production was proposed, boasting an approximate accuracy rate of 80%. This developed guide is dynamic and seamlessly integrated with the production database. It undergoes regular updates every three months, incorporating the selected features of the process and raw materials, their respective thresholds, and the predicted levels of elongation and tenacity.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 13 August 2024

Sofien Benltoufa, Hind Algamdy, Adel Ghith, Faten Fayala and Lubos Hes

The paper aims to investigate the dynamic measurement of the water vapour resistance. The water vapour diffusion kinetics depends on the fibre’s material. So, water vapour…

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to investigate the dynamic measurement of the water vapour resistance. The water vapour diffusion kinetics depends on the fibre’s material. So, water vapour resistance measurement times till the equilibrium steady state can vary in the case of natural fibres compared to synthetic fibres. Devices for determining water vapour resistance according to the ISO 11092 standard allow static values to be measured.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study to investigate the dynamic of the water vapour resistance, a new parameter named “holding period” was introduced and defined as the time from sample placement on the measuring head until the measuring process begins. The holding period was varied as 0, 30, 60, 90, 120, 180, 240 and 300 s. Wool and cotton knitted fabrics were tested as natural fibres and compared to 100% polyester and 90% polyester/10% elastane as synthetic fibres. Measurements were conducted under both air velocities of 1 and 2 m/s. The experimental test data were statistically analysed based on ANOVA and four-in-one residual plots.

Findings

Statistical analysis of experimental tests shows that the holding period affects water vapour resistance in both air velocities of 1 and 2 m/s and on the measured values in the case of hydrophilic fibres.

Research limitations/implications

The study of the dynamic relative water vapour permeability of natural and synthetic is an important area of interest for future research.

Practical implications

It is recommended to hold the samples on the top of the head measurement before starting the test.

Originality/value

Following the ISO 11092 standard, the static values of the water vapour resistance were measured without considering the dynamic behaviour of the water vapour diffusion through the textile fabrics. This paper fulfils an experimental dynamic measurement of the water vapour resistance.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 27 February 2023

Ali A. Ali, H. Abd El-Wahab, Moustafa S. Abusaif, Ahmed Ragab, Omar A. Abdel-Jaid, E.A. Eldeeb and Yousry A. Ammar

The paper aims to the preparation of novel disperse dye based on azo salicylaldehyde derivatives TF-A [2-hydroxy-5-((3-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl)diazenyl)benzaldehyde] and full…

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to the preparation of novel disperse dye based on azo salicylaldehyde derivatives TF-A [2-hydroxy-5-((3-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl)diazenyl)benzaldehyde] and full evaluation of their use as disperse dye TF-ASC [bis 2-hydroxy-5-((3-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl)diazenyl)benzaldehyde Schiff base with 4,4'-methylenedianiline] for dyeing polyester fabric at various conditions.

Design/methodology/approach

The dispersed dye was synthesized via Schiff base condensation in the presence of ceric ammonium nitrate cerium ammonium nitrate 10 mmole% as an eco-friendly catalyst at room temperature. The chemical structure of the prepared dye was characterized via elemental analysis, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, 1H- and 13 C-NMR spectroscopic analysis tools. This study thoroughly examined the dyeing of disperse dye TF-ASC on polyester at various conditions. The characteristics of dyed polyester fabric were measured by colour measurements, as well as light, washing, crock fastness and finally, colour strength. The discrete fourier transform (DFT) theoretical studies, including EHOMO, ELUMO and optimized geometrical structure, were assumed and discussed in detail.

Findings

The results showed that the synthesized organic dye TF-ASC was highly functional and appropriate for this kind of dyeing method. The dyeing fabrics obtained from disperse dye TF-ASC, properties possess high colour strength as well as good overall fastness properties. These dyes had a high affinity for polyester fabric, with just a tiny change in dye affinity when the pH was changed, even under alkaline circumstances. The dye levelness and shade depth of the colour results were good, and there were a variety of hues from light brownish yellow to deep brownish yellow. The results obtained from DFT computational studies such as EHOMO, ELUMO, optimized structure, diploe moment µ and electrophilicity index deduced that prepared organic dye TF-ASC is more applicable as a dispersed dye.

Originality/value

This research is significant because it provides a new dye for dyeing polyethylene terephthalate fibres with exceptional brightness and levelness; the method of preparation is a useful pathway due to its being known as a green chemistry method.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 53 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 November 2022

Ali A. Ali, Malek Alshukur, Ashraf M. Ashmawy, Ammar M. Mahmoud, Ahmed Saleh, Hesham S. Nassar and Bo Yao

This study aims to show the dyeing behaviour of polyester fabrics using four novel heterocyclic disperse dyes.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to show the dyeing behaviour of polyester fabrics using four novel heterocyclic disperse dyes.

Design/methodology/approach

The four dyes were synthesized based on 5, 5'-(1, 4-phenylene) bis (1, 3, 4-thiadiazol-2-amine) as a diazonium compound. The UV/Vis absorption spectroscopic data of these disperse dyes while dyeing polyester fabrics were investigated. Following this, the dyeing properties of these dyes on polyester fabrics were investigated under acid condition.

Findings

The results showed that increasing the dyeing temperature from 80°C to 100°C led to an increase in dye uptake for all dyes, but further increases of the temperature to 130°C led to higher dye uptake for dye 3 as the dye exhaustion increased by about 50% from 55.9% to 91.4%.

Originality/value

This study is important as it introduces new dyes for the dyeing of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibres with colours that range from yellowish orange to bluish yellow and scarlet red and all with excellent brightness, levelness and depth of shade.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 17 September 2024

Sirisha Deepthi Sornapudi, Meenu Srivastava, Srinivas Manchikatla, Samuel Thavaraj H. and Senthil Kumar B.

Natural extracts produced with Annona squamosa and Moringa oleifera leaves through the methanol-based solvent were coated on 100% cotton and 80%:20% polyester/cotton blends to…

Abstract

Purpose

Natural extracts produced with Annona squamosa and Moringa oleifera leaves through the methanol-based solvent were coated on 100% cotton and 80%:20% polyester/cotton blends to improve the functional properties such as antimicrobial activity, wicking, stiffness and crease recovery of the fabric using an eco-friendly 1,2,3,4-butane tetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) crosslinking agent.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, 100% cotton and 80:20% Polyester/Cotton fabrics with surface densities of 113.5 g/m2 and 101 g/m2 were treated BTCA. Eight different samples were produced by padding through the natural extracts. The FTIR investigation was performed on all the fabric samples. These coated fabrics were studied for their antimicrobial activity, wicking, stiffness and crease recovery properties.

Findings

It was found that the BTCA cross-linked fabrics showed higher antimicrobial activity against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. Similarly, the percentage crease recovery angle was higher for the Annona squamosa coated sample than for Moringa Oleifera leaf extract in both cotton and polyester cotton blend samples. Furthermore, no significant variation in stiffness values was discovered between the control samples of cotton and polyester cotton blend and its treatment one. It was interesting to note that treating the fabrics with cross-linker showed improved vertical wicking properties, which were closer to control fabric values. The study confirms that crosslinking the fabrics with BTCA has improved the functional properties of the fabrics. The zone of inhibition values of BTCA cross-linked moringa methanolic leaves extract coated cotton and polyester cotton blend were 6 to 6.5 cm, which was more than 50% higher than non-BTCA cross-linked fabric, and BTCA cross-linker has improved the vertical wicking properties.

Research limitations/implications

The outcome of this study will help to gain a better understanding of BTCA cross-linkers for improving the functional coating on textile substrates.

Originality/value

This study was conducted to improve the natural extract coating on textile material with eco-friendly aspects, enhancing the commercial utility of these finished fabrics

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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