Search results

The purpose of this study is to propose the parametric sleeve patternmaking method that enables mass customization.

To propose the parametric sleeve patternmaking method, the required components for parametrization were identified, and required elements for the application of mass customization were extracted as an objective sleeve pattern.

Overall drafting processes, the formulas for lines and points, the values of notches, and the value of the ease of ESMOD method, the angles and the formulas for darts of Müller’s method, and the size of Sleeve Opening and the way of pattern control of Secoli’s method were combined in the new method proposed.

Further study requires a comprehensive analysis of the proposed sleeve patternmaking method and developing the parametric sleeve pattern CAD for mass customization to utilize and commercialize the parametric sleeve patternmaking method.

The parametric sleeve patternmaking method is suitable for mass customization. Especially, even beginners would apply the parametric sleeve patternmaking method proposed in this study to any type of bodice pattern without confusion.

The parametric sleeve patternmaking method proposed is simple and delivers the lines and the calculated values for the sleeve patternmaking clearly and objectively rather than the patterner’s intuition does.

The purpose of this study was to explore participants’ fit perceptions of customized garments and investigate the factors that affected the customized fit.

Because different patternmaking methods generate varied fit results, eight customized dresses were developed for four fit models aged 18–25 using two different made-to-measure (MTM) systems (Gerber AccuMark and Telestia Creator). The authors designed a questionnaire to assess the fit of the final garments on each of the four models. A total of 12 participants (four fit models and eight experts) attended a live evaluation meeting and completed the questionnaire. The quantitative and qualitative data of the participants’ fit perceptions were collected and analyzed.

The authors compared the fit outputs of the two MTM systems and determined the fit issues from the participants’ perceptions. The results showed that the participants evaluated the customized fit mainly according to the ease, seam placement and wrinkle occurrence. The majority of fit models and experts preferred Dress B created using Telestia Creator to Dress A developed using Gerber AccuMark. The participants’ fit perceptions also revealed that many factors, such as the MTM systems, participants’ fit preferences, models’ body characteristics, fabric and ease, impacted the fit results. In addition, the experts perceived more fit issues than the models.

The fit output comparison of the two MTM systems could be valuable for pattern makers to use the systems. The research results would also be useful for apparel companies to conduct a fit evaluation and improve their customization processes.

A suitable dress form is necessary for patternmaking when manufacturing a garment for the global market. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the similarities and differences in visual impressions and preferences of dress forms between Japanese and British female university students.

The authors carried out sensory evaluations of the visual impressions of dress forms using images of four forms made in Japan, France, the UK and the USA. The participants (18 Japanese and 11 British female university students in their 20s) assessed them using the semantic differential method. In total, 22 adjective pairs concerning style, image and preference factors were used. The authors performed a principal component analysis on the results for style and image. For preference factors, one-way analysis of variance was used to analyze whether there was a difference in preference between the dress forms.

The Japanese students evaluated dress forms by considering balance and cool (fashionable) as the first principal component, and frailty and delicacy as the second. A large bust-to-waist ratio strengthens the impression of the latter component. The Japanese preferred dress forms of the kind worn by fashion models. Their preference was heavily influenced by the first principal component, but this preference decreased when the dress form evinced a weak impression. The British students assessed dress forms using healthy and cool (fashionable) as the first principal component, and frail and thin body as the second. A ratio of the width of the shoulder to that of the waist (at the front) of 1.6:1 and a rounded back shape from the side view were considered healthy.

These results can help understand the Japanese and British customers’ impressions and preferences on the dress form. Moreover, apparel manufacturers choose a suitable dress form to manufacture garments for the global market, by considering similarities and differences in people’s preferences.

The purpose of this paper is to propose the swimsuit patternmaking method suitable for the body shapes of middle-aged women and to propose the swimsuit pattern development procedures that enable automated swimsuit patternmaking.

To propose the patternmaking method of the swimsuit, which is suitable for the body shape of middle-aged women, the swimsuit patterns were developed in three stages in this study. The measurements of the middle-aged woman body model were compared with the size of the developed pattern in each stage, and the optimal stretch rate of the fabric was defined. In total, 22 items were used for size analysis of developed patterns in each stage.

The swimsuit patternmaking method proposed in this study was derived by considering the body shapes of middle-aged women, desired design and fabric characteristics. Also, a series of processes, including obtaining a raw pattern from the surface of the three-dimensional (3D) human body, designing patterns by the expert, evaluating patterns, drafting the final pattern and the final patternmaking method, was presented.

This study has great significance to provide a manual of swimsuit patternmaking for middle-aged women, which has high tightness and movement compatibility.

The swimsuit patternmaking method proposed in this study is relatively simple because it is based on the human body measurements and delivers the lines and the calculated values clearly and objectively rather than the patterner's intuition does so that it is suitable for the automation of the swimsuit patternmaking for the middle-aged women.

The authors investigate the effects of four basic bodice pattern shapes and developing methods on the appearances of ladies' fitted bodice design. The authors also clarify the preferred appearance among the four ladies' fitted bodice design as reported by Japanese university students and propose a pattern developing method of the preferred bodice design using the four basic bodices.

Targeting a ladies' fitted bodice design with designated dimensions, four ladies' fitted bodices were manufactured using four types of basic bodice pattern and their development methods: BUNKA from Japan, ESMOD from France, ARMSTRONG from the United States, and ALDRICH from the United Kingdom. The appearances of the four fitted bodices were observed and explained in terms of ease and darts. The authors also conducted a sensory test regarding the preferred shirt appearance adopting a semantical difference method, for 15 female Japanese university students in their twenties. The authors propose a pattern developing method to design the preferred fitted bodice shape using different basic bodices considering the amount and allocation of ease and size and allocation of darts to front and back of the bodice.

The appearances of the bodices were different even for the same fitted bodice design depending on the type of basic bodice pattern and its developing method. BUNKA had a slightly constricted silhouette at the waist and ESMOD had a straight silhouette and less constriction. ARMSTRONG had the most constricted silhouette and rounded hips and ALDRICH had a slightly constricted curve from the bust to the hips. The shape differences were strongly related to the amount of ease and the difference in waist darts between front and back of the bodice. The Japanese participants preferred fitted bodices that have a constricted silhouette from front and back views. From the side view, a straight line at the front and a constricted shape and emphasized hip at the back silhouette were preferred. By adjusting the allocations of ease and waist darts to front and back of the bodice, it was possible to design the preferred fitted bodice shape even with different basic pattern.

It was found that the basic bodice pattern and developing method affect the final clothing. It is necessary to adjust the allocation of ease and darts to front and back of the bodice to construct clothing using different patternmaking methods. It was shown that it is more important to consider the patternmaking method than to select a suitable basic bodice pattern. It is necessary to understand the characteristics of allocation and amount of ease and the allocation and size of waist darts in both the basic patternmaking method and developing method. This approach is also useful in making an article of clothing with a shape required in other countries.

The purpose of this paper is to focus on how to automatically generate the individualized patterns for women’s suits based on the 3D body point-cloud images.

With the software Imageware, the point-cloud data of the female body were measured according to the female body feature to obtain the heights, widths, depths and girths at various landmarks. Then the relationship between the height of each landmark and the body height was analyzed to build the height calculation rules by software SPSS, and the prediction models of body girths were established from the body widths and depths using regression analysis for pattern generation.

The pattern generation rules were built with the relationships between a human body and the garment patterns using the graphic flattening method. Based on the above rules, the final patterns were drafted automatically by using these dimensions to fit the subjects. The try-on experiment also showed that the individualized suits could fit the subjects’ body well at some feature landmarks.

In order to realize tailor-made and meet the consumers’ demands for individualized clothes, the development of garment CAD system has become inevitable in the garment industry. This paper could provide the foundation for automatic pattern generation, and technical support for tailor-made.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate a suitable position for the bustline of the upper garment and its effect on appearance for various body types. It also provides an appropriate balance between the bustline and the waistline.

The authors manufactured five upper garments using a patternmaking method that allows for the distance between the side neck point and the bust point (BL) to be altered. The appearance of the garments on four dress forms with different values of BL was compared using Scheffe’s paired comparison (Nakaya’s variation) of seven scales. In total, 20 Japanese subjects in their 20s evaluated the garments. Six evaluation items – wrinkle amount, fit, attractiveness, beauty, youthfulness and slimness – were used. The vertical ratios of the garments on each dress form, a (projected distance between the horizontal line of the shoulder points and the bustline) and b (projected distance between the bustline and waistline), were measured using 3D scanned data. The relationship between the ratios and the results of the sensory test was investigated.

It was found that changing the values of the BL influenced the appearance of the upper garments. The upper garment for which the BL was adjusted according to dress form was determined to not be well-fitting, attractive and beautiful. The garment with an a:b ratio of close to 1 was evaluated as beautiful, attractive and better fitting than all others.

The results of this study will help designers and patternmakers create more beautiful, attractive and fitting upper garments.

Manufacturers have been struggling to meet the wants and needs of their customers without sacrificing the efficiencies and profits gained through mass production. Fortunately, developments in information technology have increased the probability of mass customization being adopted as an acceptable business paradigm. Almost every CAD system used in apparel patternmaking has some method that would enable mass customization through automatic alteration of patterns based on individual measurements. Although each has created an interface somewhat differently from all of the others, most have a number of preparatory activities in common that will allow “automatic” alterations to occur. This article outlines the activities involved in setting up CAD systems to automatically customize garments for fit.

Explores the geometric nature of the upper female torso using photographic data, physical measurements, and computer technology to develop bodice patterns. Body measurements, in addition to front and side view photographs, provided data for 12 female subjects participating in the study. These data were used to develop the experimental methodology and a computer program was written to generate sloper patterns for the upper female torso. A conventional pattern drafting method was used to develop hand‐drafted bodice patterns. An evaluation scale, which included 25 fitting criteria, was developed to compare the fit between the experimental and hand‐drafted bodices. For 12 of the 25 items on the scale, the experimental bodices were judged to have a better fit than those produced by the hand‐drafted method; for two items on the scale, the hand‐drafted bodices fit better. No statistically significant differences were found for the remaining items on the fit scale. This methodology shows potential for providing accurate, quickly‐generated bodice patterns.

The purpose of this paper is to develop a multi‐purpose body form that could be used to develop different types of garments by putting body skins with ease on the standard body form.

Free form deformation method was used to generate a virtual model upon the basis of the averaged wire frame. The virtual model was made into a real‐life model by a rapid prototyping (RP) process, and then, the standard body form was made by molding the RP. The 3D polygon shell for a body skin got flattened down to 2D patterns and made by a urethane material.

The standard body form developed by using 3D body scan data better represented the characteristics of the body shapes than the previously hand‐made ones. In addition, by standardizing the production of the body form itself, it is now possible to make body forms into the standards and be consistent in their qualities.

This paper presents the methodology of utilizing 3D body scan data in a garment design, which is possible by incorporating advanced 3D modeling technologies and 3D data of a human body in making body forms. For the mass production of a body skin, it is necessary to develop various special materials simulating soft tissues.

The apparel industry can enjoy cost cutting effects by using this multi‐purpose body form. A company does not have to spend money in purchasing different sizes and shapes of body forms, let alone saving the spaces to store them once purchased.