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1 – 10 of over 11000Ayumi Isaji, KyoungOk Kim and Masayuki Takatera
The authors investigate the effects of four basic bodice pattern shapes and developing methods on the appearances of ladies' fitted bodice design. The authors also clarify the…
Abstract
Purpose
The authors investigate the effects of four basic bodice pattern shapes and developing methods on the appearances of ladies' fitted bodice design. The authors also clarify the preferred appearance among the four ladies' fitted bodice design as reported by Japanese university students and propose a pattern developing method of the preferred bodice design using the four basic bodices.
Design/methodology/approach
Targeting a ladies' fitted bodice design with designated dimensions, four ladies' fitted bodices were manufactured using four types of basic bodice pattern and their development methods: BUNKA from Japan, ESMOD from France, ARMSTRONG from the United States, and ALDRICH from the United Kingdom. The appearances of the four fitted bodices were observed and explained in terms of ease and darts. The authors also conducted a sensory test regarding the preferred shirt appearance adopting a semantical difference method, for 15 female Japanese university students in their twenties. The authors propose a pattern developing method to design the preferred fitted bodice shape using different basic bodices considering the amount and allocation of ease and size and allocation of darts to front and back of the bodice.
Findings
The appearances of the bodices were different even for the same fitted bodice design depending on the type of basic bodice pattern and its developing method. BUNKA had a slightly constricted silhouette at the waist and ESMOD had a straight silhouette and less constriction. ARMSTRONG had the most constricted silhouette and rounded hips and ALDRICH had a slightly constricted curve from the bust to the hips. The shape differences were strongly related to the amount of ease and the difference in waist darts between front and back of the bodice. The Japanese participants preferred fitted bodices that have a constricted silhouette from front and back views. From the side view, a straight line at the front and a constricted shape and emphasized hip at the back silhouette were preferred. By adjusting the allocations of ease and waist darts to front and back of the bodice, it was possible to design the preferred fitted bodice shape even with different basic pattern.
Originality/value
It was found that the basic bodice pattern and developing method affect the final clothing. It is necessary to adjust the allocation of ease and darts to front and back of the bodice to construct clothing using different patternmaking methods. It was shown that it is more important to consider the patternmaking method than to select a suitable basic bodice pattern. It is necessary to understand the characteristics of allocation and amount of ease and the allocation and size of waist darts in both the basic patternmaking method and developing method. This approach is also useful in making an article of clothing with a shape required in other countries.
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This paper gives a review of the finite element techniques (FE)applied in the area of material processing. The latest trends in metalforming, non‐metal forming and powder…
Abstract
This paper gives a review of the finite element techniques (FE) applied in the area of material processing. The latest trends in metal forming, non‐metal forming and powder metallurgy are briefly discussed. The range of applications of finite elements on the subjects is extremely wide and cannot be presented in a single paper; therefore the aim of the paper is to give FE users only an encyclopaedic view of the different possibilities that exist today in the various fields mentioned above. An appendix included at the end of the paper presents a bibliography on finite element applications in material processing for the last five years, and more than 1100 references are listed.
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This paper gives a review of the finite element techniques (FE) applied in the area of material processing. The latest trends in metal forming, non‐metal forming, powder…
Abstract
This paper gives a review of the finite element techniques (FE) applied in the area of material processing. The latest trends in metal forming, non‐metal forming, powder metallurgy and composite material processing are briefly discussed. The range of applications of finite elements on these subjects is extremely wide and cannot be presented in a single paper; therefore the aim of the paper is to give FE researchers/users only an encyclopaedic view of the different possibilities that exist today in the various fields mentioned above. An appendix included at the end of the paper presents a bibliography on finite element applications in material processing for 1994‐1996, where 1,370 references are listed. This bibliography is an updating of the paper written by Brannberg and Mackerle which has been published in Engineering Computations, Vol. 11 No. 5, 1994, pp. 413‐55.
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William Schroeder and Thomas H. Hazlett
THE modern aeroplane is constructed largely from sheet metal. As such, the most important production problems are those of sheet metal forming, and assembling. Production is here…
Abstract
THE modern aeroplane is constructed largely from sheet metal. As such, the most important production problems are those of sheet metal forming, and assembling. Production is here considered as not only the act of forming and assembling the required number of parts, but also the making of forming tools, and all processing of parts such as heat‐treating. Only that phase of the above concept of production which deals with the tooling for production and the forming and heat‐treating will be considered here. The design of the aircraft parts will also be discussed somewhat, for it is obvious that the design of the part (designed shape and materials used) frequently determines whether the part can or cannot be readily made.
Whereas the Minister of Labour (hereafter in this Order referred to as the “Minister”) has received from the Brush and Broom Wages Council (Great Britain) the wages regulation…
Abstract
Whereas the Minister of Labour (hereafter in this Order referred to as the “Minister”) has received from the Brush and Broom Wages Council (Great Britain) the wages regulation proposals set out in Schedules 1 and 2 hereof;
Diana Popescu, Aurelian Zapciu, Cristian Tarba and Dan Laptoiu
This paper aims to propose a new solution for producing customized three-dimensional (3D)-printed flat-shaped splints, which are then thermoformed to fit the patient’s hand. The…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to propose a new solution for producing customized three-dimensional (3D)-printed flat-shaped splints, which are then thermoformed to fit the patient’s hand. The splint design process is automated and is available to clinicians through an online application.
Design/methodology/approach
Patient anthropometric data measured by clinicians are associated with variables of parametric 3D splint models. Once these variables are input by clinicians in the online app, customized stereo lithography (STL) files for both splint and half mold, in the case of the bi-material splint, are automatically generated and become available for download. Bi-materials splints are produced by a hybrid manufacturing process involving 3D printing and overmolding.
Findings
This approach eliminates the need for 3D CAD-proficient clinicians, allows fast generation of customized splints, generates two-dimensional (2D) drawings of splints for verifying shape and dimensions before 3D printing and generates the STL files. Automation reduces splint design time and cost, while manufacturing time is diminished by 3D printing the splint in a flat position.
Practical implications
The app could be used in clinical practice. It meets the demands of mass customization using 3D printing in a field where individualization is mandatory. The solution is scalable – it can be extended to other splint designs or to other limbs. 3D-printed tailored splints can offer improved wearing comfort and aesthetic appearance, while maintaining hand immobilization, allowing visually controlled follow-up for edema and rapidly observing the need for revision if necessary.
Originality/value
An online application was developed for uploading patient measurements and downloading 2D drawings and STL files of customized splints. Different models of splints can be designed and included in the database as alternative variants. A method for producing bi-materials flat splints combining soft and rigid polymers represents another novelty of the research.
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The designing and initial alignments of 2D garment patterns in 3D space are the key procedures in 3D apparel design. This paper presents a new methodology to prepare and edit…
Abstract
Purpose
The designing and initial alignments of 2D garment patterns in 3D space are the key procedures in 3D apparel design. This paper presents a new methodology to prepare and edit initial pattern shape in 3D space by simulating virtual cloth scissoring.
Design/methodology/approach
In conventional apparel CAD tools, flat 2D patterns are drawn and sewn in 3D space. Thus, the final appearance of 3D garment cannot be easily predictable for non‐specialized personnel from the flat patterns. This paper adopts the real pattern designing method of “draping”, incorporating it into computer‐based designing so that the user can realistically cut, sew and add the cloth by only using a mouse. 2D and 3D meshes are edited simultaneously and thus a flattening process is not needed.
Findings
Several mesh‐based operations such as cutting, sewing, adding, and fixing are devised and have been successfully applied to virtual garment cutting.
Practical implications
Our new pattern drawing method has an advantage that designer can look and feel the garment appearance interactively during the design process. Virtual cutting is identical to the real pattern draping technique and is easy to adopt for designers.
Originality/value
With current computer hardware speed and through using the drape simulation technique, it was possible to drape and cut cloth in real‐time. In addition, both the 3D pattern and 2D flat pattern could be simultaneously acquired.
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Mahmood Khalid and Khalid A. Juhany
The purpose of this paper is to obtain close form expressions for the dynamic stability of conical wave riders with flat surfaces which could be equipped with lifting surfaces on…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to obtain close form expressions for the dynamic stability of conical wave riders with flat surfaces which could be equipped with lifting surfaces on its plain flat surface. Numerical simulation would require very large meshes to resolve flows at subscale level and the experimental evaluations would be equally difficult, requiring expensive measurement facilities with challenging procedures to secure such vehicles in confined test sections to obtain satisfactory wind on and wind off oscillations.
Design/methodology/approach
The design method uses appropriate pressure fields using small disturbance theory, which, in turn, is perturbed using the unsteady shock expansion theory to recover suitable expressions for the dynamic stability behaviour.
Findings
It was observed that the dynamic stability of the standard half-cone-type wave riders with flat upper surfaces deteriorates with the axis position measured from the pointed apex reaching a minimum at around x/co = 0.666. The half-cone wave rider with flat upper surfaces is dynamically less stable than a pure cone.
Research limitations/implications
The method is typically less accurate when the similarity parameter M∞θ ≤ 1 = 1 or if the angle of attack is not small.
Practical implications
With renewed interest in hypersonic, future hypersonically would be designed as fast lifting bodies whose shapes would be close to the configurations of hypersonic wave riders, especially if they are designed to operate at upper atmosphere altitudes.
Originality/value
The analytic approach outlined in this paper for the evaluation of dynamic and static stability derivatives is original, drawing from the strengths of the small disturbance theory and shock expansion techniques. The method is particularly important, as there are no reported theoretical, numerical or experimental results in the literature.
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Ian Campbell, Jacques Combrinck, Deon de Beer and Ludrick Barnard
Not all the inventors and designers have access to computer‐aided design (CAD) software to transform their design or invention into a 3D solid model. Therefore, they cannot submit…
Abstract
Purpose
Not all the inventors and designers have access to computer‐aided design (CAD) software to transform their design or invention into a 3D solid model. Therefore, they cannot submit an STL file to a rapid prototyping (RP) service bureau for a quotation but perhaps only a 2D sketch or drawing. This paper proposes an alternative approach to build time estimation that will enable cost quotations to be issued before 3D CAD has been used.
Design/methodology/approach
The study presents a method of calculating build time estimations within a target error limit of 10 per cent of the actual build time of a prototype. This is achieved by using basic volumetric shapes, such as cylinders and cones, added together to represent the model in the 2D sketch. By using this information the build time of the product is then calculated with the aid of models created in a mathematical solving software package.
Findings
The development of the build time estimator and its application to several build platforms are described together with an analysis of its performance in comparison with the benchmark software. The estimator was found to meet its target 10 per cent error limit in 80 per cent of the stereolithography builds that were analysed.
Research limitations/implications
The estimator method was not able to handle multi‐component complex parts builds in a timely manner. There is a trade‐off between accuracy and processing time.
Practical implications
The output from the estimator can be fed directly into cost quotations to be sent to RP bureau customers at a very early stage in the design process.
Originality/value
Unlike all the other build estimators that were encountered, this method works directly from a 2D sketch or drawing rather than a 3D CAD file.
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To provide a selective bibliography for researchers working with bulk material forming (specifically the forging, rolling, extrusion and drawing processes) with sources which can…
Abstract
Purpose
To provide a selective bibliography for researchers working with bulk material forming (specifically the forging, rolling, extrusion and drawing processes) with sources which can help them to be up‐to‐date.
Design/methodology/approach
A range of published (1996‐2005) works, which aims to provide theoretical as well as practical information on the material processing namely bulk material forming. Bulk deformation processes used in practice change the shape of the workpiece by plastic deformations under forces applied by tools and dies.
Findings
Provides information about each source, indicating what can be found there. Listed references contain journal papers, conference proceedings and theses/dissertations on the subject.
Research limitations/implications
It is an exhaustive list of papers (1,693 references are listed) but some papers may be omitted. The emphasis is to present papers written in English language. Sheet material forming processes are not included.
Practical implications
A very useful source of information for theoretical and practical researchers in computational material forming as well as in academia or for those who have recently obtained a position in this field.
Originality/value
There are not many bibliographies published in this field of engineering. This paper offers help to experts and individuals interested in computational analyses and simulations of material forming processes.
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