Search results

Following the investigations of sizing systems and size codes in the first part of this study (published in JFMM 4/1), comparative analysis of three systems of pattern design construction is carried out. The relevant pattern dimensions are then formulated so as to implement computerised made‐to‐measure (MTM) pattern generation for the construction of the bodice and sleeve blocks. Based on these new formulations, the establishment of the proposed size charts is simplified and a construction plan is presented to illustrate the new pattern construction system. This is developed to be both logical and flexible for application to different female figure types. In addition, a grade plan is recommended for advanced pattern grading.

This study was initiated in order to develop a system for made‐to‐measure (MTM) pattern generation with special reference to computer‐aided design (CAD) applications. Recognition of the relationship between body figuration and pattern construction is essential for the production of MTM clothing with good fit. By linking theory and practice, a methodology has been developed for research in this field from female figure typing through sizing, pattern design construction and grading to pattern alteration. The study is divided into three parts. In the first part, the background to women's sizing systems and categorisation of female figure types is discussed, and a new system of size codes and size charts is proposed.

Describes a PC‐based CAD system for producing made‐to‐measure garment patterns which has been developed and implemented in the commercial environment of a bridalwear manufacturer. The software simulates the hand drafting methods of the company while automating pattern production with the following benefits: first, very rapid production of made‐to measure patterns; second, production of patterns which require minimal alteration at first fitting; third, a user friendly interface with very short training period; fourth, the de‐skilling of the pattern cutting procedure so that problems of staff turnover and training are minimal; and fifth, the elimination of human error in pattern cutting. Initial software development concentrated on bodice patterns. Further enhancements included sleeves and skirts and the mixing and matching of these three components of a dress. Cutting layouts were produced using automatic layout algorithms so that the whole procedure from order and measurements entry through pattern drafting and lay‐planning to the final full scale plotting could be carried out automatically. Furthermore, a queuing system allowed several orders previously entered on the computer to be processed in succession without any intervention by an operator. All the company’s styles are now held by the computer, which is in constant use, to the exclusion of the previously used skilled and lengthy hand drafting methods.

Prior to implementing computerised pattern alterations for figuration on a commercial CAD system, a large database with reference to the standard graded patterns, the alteration movements and relevant information needs to be generated. There are many difficulties in creating grade rules and alteration movements, especially for the bust suppression and the shaped sleeve. In order to obtain sophisticated patterns with a good fit for MTM (made‐to‐measure) clothing, the authors' pattern alteration technique is a combination of pattern design construction and grading. The procedure is divided into ten stages and the practical verification was carried out in the form of seven case studies. In addition, drafting rules on the MicroFit system for automatic pattern generation are demonstrated by converting the numerical grade rules created on the GGT AccuMark system into body‐related formulae.

A computer system for made‐to‐measure pattern production should have the capability of determining default measurements for sets of customer measurements input to the system where one or more of these measurements are missing. This paper recommends the use of default formulae rather than mathematical interpolation of size charts. These default formulae, when applied to a given size chart set, enable measurements to be determined efficiently over wide ranging customer sizes in both stature and girth. The specific default formulae for the German DOB charts are derived for Regular and Outsize charts and also for the full range of Height categories and Bust to Hip relationships, so that all sizes and shapes of customers are catered for. Default formulae have been applied in the MicroFit made‐to‐measure system from Garment Micro Systems and also implemented on this system for checking the validity of measurements entered into the system for each individual customer.

WovenTechnology is the main element for attaining excellence in manufacturing areas in the field of fashion. In recent years, integration of advanced technologies has been the main aspect for revitalizing the entire Italian manufacturing system. Starting from CAD software, then hardware, and finally, the use of communication technology for business facilities, this paper shows the most interesting cases in which fashion has benefited from advanced technologies to design innovative products and new business strategies. Digital technologies effectiveness is the new frontier that propels the manufacturing system and defines new ways of doing things and new marketing scenarios able to support companies in customer loyalty and market diversification. From these, it can be said that innovation is the result of several factors and the rapid spread of technologies, which clearly represent opportunities for the industry system to combine advanced manufacturing and traditional processes, ensure flexibility, and achieve new ways of producing, designing and selling.

Identification of human body shapes has been a key issue to develop sizing standards for ready‐to‐wear and to develop made‐to‐measure applications. Current methods to identify the body shapes are mostly based on subjective/visual determination approaches. The purpose of this paper is to look for numerical evaluation parameters for an objective method in order to classify the body shapes and to build up an automated process link.

Female subjects were chosen for the experimental design. 3D body scanning technology was integrated in the process for measurement taking and body silhouette detection of the sample group. Based on this sample data set, body shape identification was realized by referees as visual analyses, and additionally, an objective method was tried out by using body dimensions as numerical evaluation parameters. Obtained results with the sample group were inserted in a database and a body shape calculation tool was developed.

Statistical analyses showed that there is mostly a good agreement between the pairs of the evaluations including the objective calculation methods and the subjective assessments of the referees. The calculation tool was designed as web‐based software in order to integrate with further developments and automation purposes.

A new automatic tool was developed to make the body shape classification objective and repeatable. By integrating this tool to the product development chain, a continuous process link can be provided for the companies through the way for better fitting clothing.

Identifies a set of manufacturing data interfaces that could be standardized for the effective computer integration of the information required to operate an apparel manufacturing enterprise. The interfaces are called Application Protocols. Describes a method using pieces of information, referred to as Units of Functionality, as building blocks for designing Application Protocols.

The increasingly international character of modern business, together with the entry of the UK into the European Economic Community, have made it virtually imperative for senior managers to command at least one language other than their own. This is true not only for companies “going into Europe” but also for firms in the UK in which European capital has been invested.