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1 – 10 of 51A. Ayed Amara, J.Y. Drean, M. Nardin and et R. Frydrych
People involved in the cotton industry, from growers to spinners, have been concerned about the problem of stickiness encountered during cotton processing from fibres to yarn…
Abstract
People involved in the cotton industry, from growers to spinners, have been concerned about the problem of stickiness encountered during cotton processing from fibres to yarn. Many methods have been successfully developed to identify and measure stickiness and also to reduce the effect of these contaminations. Yet due to the poor fundamental scientific knowledge regarding the mechanisms of sugar adhesion on fibres, the major part of these methods is empirically based. Today, gaining knowledge about stickiness seems impossible without the help of a fundamental study on the accurate composition of honeydew and on the mechanisms of honeydew adhesion. This paper introduces a new quantitative analysis method for honeydew adhesion behaviour measurement. Adhesion measurement has been carried out on both individual sugar and sugar mixture and it reveals a strong influence of moisture content on adhesion energy and a weak influence of the type of metallic surface on adhesion energy.
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Varadaraju Ramakrishnan and Srinivasan Jagannathan
The purpose of this paper is to optimize the linear densities of polyester yarn and filament for inner layer and elastane for middle layer with cotton yarn outer layer in plain…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to optimize the linear densities of polyester yarn and filament for inner layer and elastane for middle layer with cotton yarn outer layer in plain knitted plated structure for hot and dry environment clothing.
Design/methodology/approach
Three levels of polyester yarn linear densities (11.1, 8.4 and 5.6 Tex), filament linear densities (0.8, 1.55 and 2.3 Decitex) and elastane (0, 4 and 8 percent) with 14.75 Tex cotton yarn have been used to knit 15 single jersey plated fabrics based on Box and Benhens experimental design with same loop length. Three cotton–elastane core-spun fabrics were also produced. All the fabrics were analyzed for moisture and ergonomic comfort properties and wet fabric coefficient of friction.
Findings
The increase in elastane content and yarn linear density decreases water vapor and air permeability; the increase in filament linear density decreases wicking rate and water absorbency. The optimum solution is 5.55 Tex polyester yarn of 0.8 Decitex filament as inner layer and 14.75 Tex cotton yarn as outer layer which gives good heat and moisture transfer without stickiness.
Research limitations/implications
The implication of this paper is to study thinner polyester, polypropylene and polyethylene fabrics with more micro pores as skin contact layer for quicker heat and moisture transfer.
Practical implications
Outward wickability of sweat from the skin is the prime requirement of all skin contact layer fabrics.
Social implications
It shifts the social attitude of most comfortable fabric to polyester–cotton plated for hot and dry climate.
Originality/value
This paper employs a more practical method for the selection of fabric.
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Sachiko Sukigara and Masako Niwa
Describes an investigation into the sensation of wetness and dampness by both subjective and objective measurements. When fabric has a high water content, the subject felt a…
Abstract
Describes an investigation into the sensation of wetness and dampness by both subjective and objective measurements. When fabric has a high water content, the subject felt a strong feeling of stickiness. This stickiness was evaluated objectively by measurement of the friction between the wet fabric and artificial skin. The speed of moisture transmission measured by the simulation test is one of the parameters used to evaluate the clammy feeling.
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Julia Wilfling, George Havenith, Margherita Raccuglia and Simon Hodder
Sports garments play an important role in the well-being of an athlete by protecting the wearer from changing environmental conditions and providing a comfortable feel. Clothing…
Abstract
Purpose
Sports garments play an important role in the well-being of an athlete by protecting the wearer from changing environmental conditions and providing a comfortable feel. Clothing requirements have changed in recent years and demand for apparel with a higher comfort performance has been rising. Hence, the purpose of this study is to explore consumers’ expectations and perception of comfort and to examine how different textiles are perceived by consumers to provide useful knowledge that allows to engineer comfort into fabrics and sports garments.
Design/methodology/approach
This online survey comprised 292 respondents, classified by sex, age, nationality and physical activity. The respondents were asked a total of 18 questions through the Bristol Online Survey tool to explore expectation, perception and preference of clothing comfort, specifically of sportswear.
Findings
Fit and comfort are closely linked together, both forming part of the clothing comfort concept. When purchasing garments online, the haptics of fabrics were identified as a crucial missing parameter. However, priorities of attributes within the concept varied according to the person’s sex and nationality. Women put more emphasis on garment fit and showed a higher need for tactile input, whereas men prioritised physiological comfort descriptors, i.e. properties which facilitate thermoregulation. Furthermore, there is an increased importance of physiological comfort parameters for people exercising for 10 or more hours per week. Finally, it was possible to identify common associations and preferences for textile materials (cotton, polyester, cotton/polyester blend and wool). However, consideration should be taken concerning sex and nationality.
Originality/value
Sex and nationality are parameters modulating the clothing comfort concept and the conceptualised feel of materials. Therefore, the sex and nationality of the end-consumer should be considered during the development phase of sports garments and particular attention should be given to the targeted market in which these will be sold.
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Many old coal‐mining corporations in East China were previously flatlands and farmlands in a dominant position. After mining, the agricultural ecosystem deteriorated severely, and…
Abstract
Many old coal‐mining corporations in East China were previously flatlands and farmlands in a dominant position. After mining, the agricultural ecosystem deteriorated severely, and problems such as farmlands subsiding, bridges and culverts breaking, farmhouses damaged by crevices and so on, can be observed everywhere. Agricultural ecosystem rehabilitation (AER) becomes an important issue for sustainable development in this area because land subsidence impacts on agricultural production, and farmers who lose prime lands become an unstable factor with regard to social stability. In this paper the Xuzhou coal mine area is analyzed as an example. This paper poses the engineering reclamation measures and reclaimed land use forms. Non‐filling methods, supplemented with filling methods, are main engineering measures for AER. Reclaimed land use types include planting vegetable, wheat, rice, cotton, soybean, and treating the foundations used for new village sites. This paper introduces the experimental effect of drainage, construction methods and planting in the Tongshan reclaimed area.
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IN the October number of THE BRITISH FOOD JOURNAL, while disclaiming any intention of supporting or opposing any political party or any section of politicians, we stated our…
Abstract
IN the October number of THE BRITISH FOOD JOURNAL, while disclaiming any intention of supporting or opposing any political party or any section of politicians, we stated our opinion that the fiscal policy which has been outlined before the country by Mr. CHAMBERLAIN is eminently one which requires to be put to the test of experiment and which cannot be profitably argued about upon theoretical bases. In connection with the allegation that by following the policy of leaving our doors open to those who shut their own doors in our faces, we are able to obtain goods at less expense than would be the case under other conditions, we pointed out that it would be well for the public to consider whether that which is so cheap may not also, to a great extent, be particularly nasty. The desirability of considering the nature and quality of so‐called “ cheap ” foods, supplied to us by various countriies without restriction, does not, as yet, appear to have entered the heads of those who have made matter for political controversy out of what is, in reality, a scientific question. The facts are not sufficiently known, or, in consequence of the proverbial carelessness of our generation, are not clearly appreciated. And yet, as it seems to us, some of those facts are of paramount importance to those who desire to study the subject in a calm and scientific manner and outside the region of political turmoil. What do we get from the various countries whose producers and merchants are free to “dump” their goods in this country without the restrictive influence of duty payments? Great Britain has made it known to all the world that “Rubbish may be Shot Here,” and we venture to say that the fullest advantage has been taken, and is taken, of the permission. From America, France, Germany, Italy, Holland, and Belgium, in fact from every producing country—including now even Russia and Siberia, we get inferior or scientifically‐adulterated articles which are sold to the public “ cheap.” Milk and butter scientifically adulterated, or produced under improper conditions in such a way that their composition becomes the same as physically‐adulterated products, condensed “milk” minus cream, cheese practically devoid of fat, or “ filled ” (as it is called) with margarine, all reach us in enormous quantities from most of our near and dear neighbours. Butter and certain wines and beers, loaded with injurious ‘ preservative” chemicals and the sale of which is prohibited in the country of production, are sent to the easily‐entered British “dumping‐ground” for the delectation of its confiding inhabitants. “Tinned” foods prepared from raw materials of inferior character or of more than questionable origin, are copiously unloaded on our shores to feed our complaisant population,—instead of being consigned to the refuse destructors which should be their proper destination; while, every now and then, when something worse than usual has been supplied, representative specimens of this delectable class of preparation are proved to have caused outbreaks of violent illness—those so‐called ptomaine poisonings which, of late years, have increased in number and in virulence to so distinctly alarming an extent. Flour made from diseased or damaged grain, or itself “ sick ” or damaged, and so “ processed ” as to mask its real condition; flour, again, adulterated with other and inferior meals, are “ goods ” supplied to us in ample amount for the benefit of those whose mainstay is some form of bread or flour‐food. The list might be continued literally ad nauseam.
Sleep quality, a crucial parameter for health and life performance, is affected by mattress components; particularly mechanical and thermal comfort management ability of the upper…
Abstract
Purpose
Sleep quality, a crucial parameter for health and life performance, is affected by mattress components; particularly mechanical and thermal comfort management ability of the upper layers. The aim of this study is to investigate effects of quilted mattress ticking fabric material (polyester, polypropylene, viscose, lyocell and their blends) on thermal comfort of the bedding system by objective and subjective measurements.
Design/methodology/approach
The permeability (air and water vapour), heat transfer, water absorption, transfer and drying behaviours of knitted quilted fabrics which influence the thermal comfort of the bedding system were investigated. Subjective coolness and dampness evaluations were gathered by forearm and hand-palm tests to provide more realistic discussion in light of fabric characteristics.
Findings
According to the results, polypropylene can be suggested for winter use with its higher air and water vapour permeabilities, lower thermal absorption and conductivities and warmer evaluation results. Lyocell can be suggested for summer use with also high permeabilities, higher thermal absorption and conductivities and cooler evaluation results. Polyester and viscose may also be considered for winter and summer in turn as a result of thermal feelings they create.
Originality/value
In addition to fabric thermal, permeability, liquid absorption and transfer properties, this study also includes subjective coolness and dampness evaluations which can provide realistic results regarding the coolness-to-touch and liquid transfer performances of mattress ticking fabrics. The relationships among objective and subjective data were investigated and the proposed subjective evaluation techniques can be used for different products.
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Sukhvir Singh, Niranjan Bhowmick and Anand Vaz
The present work is a systematic study to understand the cause of poor quality of sliver, roving and yarn due to defective sliver storage can-spring at finisher drawframe machine…
Abstract
Purpose
The present work is a systematic study to understand the cause of poor quality of sliver, roving and yarn due to defective sliver storage can-spring at finisher drawframe machine in spinning preparatory. This study aims to investigate the influence of can-spring stiffness factor, sliver deposition rate and sliver coils position on yarn unevenness and thin places considering two cases of sliver storage time.
Design/methodology/approach
Combed ring spun yarn samples were produced by varying finisher drawframe variables, which were can-spring stiffness, delivery speed and sliver coils position in storage can. For research design, three-factor three levels of Box-Behnken experimental design was adopted. To investigate the effect of sliver storage time on combed yarn unevenness and thin places, yarn samples were produced at 8 h sliver storage time and without allowing any storage time. Sliver storage time is the time for which combed drawn sliver kept idle in storage cans before feeding to speedframe machine. The 8 h sliver storage time was considered for present study after consulting industrial experts. Adequate numbers of the samples were tested for yarn quality parameters such as yarn unevenness and thin places 50 per cent/km on standard instruments. Finally, the test results were analyzed using statistical software to check the statistical significance of all the independent variables on observed response through analysis of variance.
Findings
The experimental results showed that the yarn samples produced from older can-springs and bottom position sliver coils stored at 8 h storage time were showing higher yarn unevenness and thin places compared to other yarn samples. The results also showed that the effect of delivery speed is not significant on yarn unevenness for samples produced without allowing any sliver storage time.
Research limitations/implications
The present study is an outcome of a practical problem experienced at the finisher drawframe machine in a spinning industry. For this purpose, only scrutinized finisher drawframe variables were considered for the evaluation. There are many equally important other factors, which were not considered due to research work feasibility.
Social implications
This paper investigates the effect of some imperative factors at the finisher drawframe stage on combed yarn quality. The present study will boost existing knowledge of the spinner’s community regarding the effect of can-spring stiffness, sliver coils position and storage time on resultant combed yarn quality parameters.
Originality/value
The work is original and only a few references are available. The study reveals that storage can-spring stiffness should be chosen carefully for better sliver handling. It is observed that finisher drawframe can-spring stiffness, sliver storage time and sliver coils position play a vital role in deciding quality characteristics of stored sliver and ultimately affect yarn quality.
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The people of this country are frequently described, more or less correctly, as “long suffering,” and there is possibly no question in regard to which they have suffered so much…
Abstract
The people of this country are frequently described, more or less correctly, as “long suffering,” and there is possibly no question in regard to which they have suffered so much and so long as that of the national food supply. Now and again some more thoughtful member of the Legislature addresses a question on the subject to some responsible Minister of the Crown, possibly on the sufficiency, or sometimes even on the purity of some article of food, and receives an answer which, as a general rule, is a mere feeble evasion of the particular point on which information is desired.
Kashif Munir and Maryam Sultan
The purpose of this study is to analyze the export competitiveness of Pakistan with border-sharing countries, i.e. Afghanistan, China, India and Iran for the year 2014.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to analyze the export competitiveness of Pakistan with border-sharing countries, i.e. Afghanistan, China, India and Iran for the year 2014.
Design/methodology/approach
The study uses revealed symmetric comparative advantage (RSCA) index to measure export competitiveness with border-sharing countries. The study has split the results into highest and marginal comparative advantage and disadvantage according to the rank.
Findings
Pakistan is exporting 160, 155, 133 and 60 commodities at three-digit level of Standard International Trade Code (Rev 3) classification to Afghanistan, China, India and Iran, respectively. The results suggest that Pakistan has highest and marginal comparative disadvantage in more than half of these commodities exported to border-sharing countries. Pakistan can improve its market share for rice in Afghanistan, China and Iran. Special measures and productive efforts are required to improve the export competitiveness of cotton, textile yarn and cotton fabric in border-sharing countries.
Practical implications
Pakistan has to adopt special strategies to improve the competitiveness of those commodities that fall in marginal comparative advantage and disadvantage. To increase the volume of cross-border trading, political and diplomatic channels are required among the countries especially the border-sharing countries.
Originality/value
Export competitiveness of Pakistan is analyzed for all the commodities exported to border-sharing countries and categorized into highest and marginal comparative advantage and disadvantage. To avoid the problem of asymmetry in Balassa index revealed comparative advantage, RSCA index is used.
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