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Article
Publication date: 14 May 2024

Gizem Karakan Günaydın, Erhan Kenan Çeven and Nejla Çeven

The paper aims to provide an investigation about the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to provide an investigation about the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper evaluates the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics. Twill drapery fabrics with 18 Tex linen warp yarn where two types of weft yarns were utilized respectively with the order of “A” yarn and “B” yarn. 58 Tex Lyocell Linen blended first weft yarn (A yarn) was kept constant and the second weft yarn (B yarn) varied in different yarn structures and yarn count. Thermal comfort properties such as thermal conductivity, thermal resistivity, thermal absorptivity, fabric thickness were measured by means of Alambeta device. Correlation matrix between the thermal properties was also displayed. Air permeability results were obtained by using SDL Atlas Digital Air Permeability Tester Model M 021 A. One way analysis of variance (ANOVA) test was performed in order to investigate the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Findings

In this paper, weft yarn type was found as a significant factor on some of the thermal comfort properties such as thermal conductivity, thermal resistivity, thermal absorptivity, fabric thickness and on the air permeability properties.

Originality/value

There are limited works related to evaluation of some thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 February 2024

Saba Sareminia, Zahra Ghayoumian and Fatemeh Haghighat

The textile industry holds immense significance in the economy of any nation, particularly in the production of synthetic yarn and fabrics. Consequently, the pursuit of acquiring…

Abstract

Purpose

The textile industry holds immense significance in the economy of any nation, particularly in the production of synthetic yarn and fabrics. Consequently, the pursuit of acquiring high-quality products at a reduced cost has become a significant concern for countries. The primary objective of this research is to leverage data mining and data intelligence techniques to enhance and refine the production process of texturized yarn by developing an intelligent operating guide that enables the adjustment of production process parameters in the texturized yarn manufacturing process, based on the specifications of raw materials.

Design/methodology/approach

This research undertook a systematic literature review to explore the various factors that influence yarn quality. Data mining techniques, including deep learning, K-nearest neighbor (KNN), decision tree, Naïve Bayes, support vector machine and VOTE, were employed to identify the most crucial factors. Subsequently, an executive and dynamic guide was developed utilizing data intelligence tools such as Power BI (Business Intelligence). The proposed model was then applied to the production process of a textile company in Iran 2020 to 2021.

Findings

The results of this research highlight that the production process parameters exert a more significant influence on texturized yarn quality than the characteristics of raw materials. The executive production guide was designed by selecting the optimal combination of production process parameters, namely draw ratio, D/Y and primary temperature, with the incorporation of limiting indexes derived from the raw material characteristics to predict tenacity and elongation.

Originality/value

This paper contributes by introducing a novel method for creating a dynamic guide. An intelligent and dynamic guide for tenacity and elongation in texturized yarn production was proposed, boasting an approximate accuracy rate of 80%. This developed guide is dynamic and seamlessly integrated with the production database. It undergoes regular updates every three months, incorporating the selected features of the process and raw materials, their respective thresholds, and the predicted levels of elongation and tenacity.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 March 2024

Georgy Sunny and T. Palani Rajan

The purpose of the study is to optimize the blending ratio of Arecanut and cotton fibers to create yarn with the best quality for various applications, particularly home…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of the study is to optimize the blending ratio of Arecanut and cotton fibers to create yarn with the best quality for various applications, particularly home furnishings. The study aims to determine the effect of different blend ratios on the physical and mechanical properties of the yarn.

Design/methodology/approach

The study involves blending Arecanut and cotton fibers in various ratios (90:10, 75:25, 50:50, 25:75 and 10:90) at two different yarn counts (10/1 and 5/1). Various physical and mechanical properties of the blended yarn are analyzed, including unevenness, coefficient of mass variation (cvm%), imperfection, hairiness, breaking strength, elongation, tenacity and breaking work.

Findings

The research findings suggest that the blend ratio of 10:90 (10% cotton and 90% Arecanut fiber) produced the best results in terms of physical and mechanical properties for both yarn counts. This blend ratio resulted in reduced unevenness, cvm% and imperfection, while also exhibiting good mechanical properties such as breaking strength, elongation, tenacity and breaking work. The blend with a higher concentration of cotton generally showed better properties due to the coarseness of Arecanut fiber. As the goal of the study was to determine the best blend ratio that included the most Arecanut fiber based on its physical and mechanical properties, which is suitable for home furnishing applications, 75:25 Areca cotton blend ratio of yarn count 5/1 proved to be the best.

Research limitations/implications

The study acknowledges that Arecanut fiber must be blended with other commercially used fibers like cotton due to its coarseness. While the study provides insights into optimizing blend ratios for home furnishings and packaging, further research may be needed to make the material suitable for clothing applications.

Practical implications

The research has practical implications for industries interested in utilizing Arecanut and cotton blends for various applications, such as home furnishings and packaging materials. It suggests that specific blend ratios can result in yarn with desirable properties for these purposes.

Social implications

The study mentions that the increased use of Arecanut fibers can benefit the growers of Arecanut, potentially providing economic opportunities for communities engaged in Arecanut farming.

Originality/value

The research explores the utilization of Arecanut fibers, an underutilized resource, in combination with cotton to create sustainable yarn. It assesses various blend ratios and their impact on yarn properties, contributing to the understanding of eco-friendly textile materials.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 March 2022

Abenezer Fikre Hailemariam and Nuredin Muhammed

The purpose of this study is to investigate the mechanical properties of denim fabrics constructed from ring-spun and open-end rotor spun yarns.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to investigate the mechanical properties of denim fabrics constructed from ring-spun and open-end rotor spun yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

Yarns of 10s Ne count using cotton fibers were spun using the ring and open-end rotor spinning technologies. The yarns were used to produce a denim fabric on an air-jet loom with a 3/1 twill weave structure. Mechanical tests – tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance and pilling resistance – of denim fabrics were evaluated. The test results were analyzed using analysis of variance with the help of Software Package for Social Sciences.

Findings

Denim fabrics made by using ring-spun yarns exhibited better tensile and tear strength properties than denim fabrics made by using open-end rotor spun yarns. On the contrary, denim produced using open-end rotor yarns have better abrasion resistance, pilling resistance and air permeability than those produced using ring-spun yarns.

Originality/value

Both spinning techniques have a significant influence on the properties of denim fabrics. Whenever better tensile and tear strength is required, it is better to use ring-spun yarns, while if the requirement is better abrasion resistance and pilling resistance with high air permeability, then open-end rotor spun yarns shall be used.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 July 2022

Ashis Mitra

Cotton fibre lots are graded and selected for yarn spinning based on their quality value which is a function of certain fibre properties. Cotton grading and selection has created…

Abstract

Purpose

Cotton fibre lots are graded and selected for yarn spinning based on their quality value which is a function of certain fibre properties. Cotton grading and selection has created a domain of emerging interest among the researchers. Several researchers have addressed the said issue using a few exponents of multi-criteria decision-making (MCDM) technique. The purpose of this study is to demonstrate a cotton selection problem using a recently developed measurement of alternatives and ranking according to compromise solution (MARCOS) method which can handle almost any decision problem involving a finite number of alternatives and multiple conflicting decision criteria.

Design/methodology/approach

The MARCOS method of the MCDM technique was deployed in this study to rank 17 cotton fibre lots based on their quality values. Six apposite fibre properties, namely, fibre bundle strength, elongation, fineness, upper half mean length, uniformity index and short fibre content are considered as the six decision criteria assigning weights previously determined by an earlier researcher using analytic hierarchy process.

Findings

Among the 17 alternatives, C9 secured rank 1 (the best lot) with the highest utility function (0.704) and C7 occupied rank 17 (the worst lot) with the lowest utility function (0.596). Ranking given by MARCOS method showed high degree of congruence with the earlier approaches, as evidenced by high rank correlation coefficients (Rs > 0.814). During sensitivity analyses, no occurrence of rank reversal is observed. The correlations between the quality value-based ranking and the yarn tenacity-based rankings are better than many of the traditional methods. The results can be improved further by adopting other efficient method of weighting the criteria.

Practical implications

The properties of raw cotton have significant impact on the quality of final yarn. Compared to the traditional methods, MCDM is reported as the most viable solution in which fibre parameters are given their due importance while formulating a single index known as quality value. The present study demonstrates the application of a recently developed exponent of MCDM in the name of MARCOS for the first time to address a cotton fibre selection problem for textile spinning mills. The same approach can also be extended to solve other decision problems of the textile industry, in general.

Originality/value

Novelty of the present study lies in the fact that the MARCOS is a very recently developed MCDM method, and this is a maiden application of the MARCOS method in the domain of textile, in general, and cotton industry, in particular. The approach is very simple, highly effective and quite flexible in terms of number of alternatives and decision criteria, although highly robust and stable.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 August 2022

Ngan Yi Kitty Lam, Jeanne Tan, Anne Toomey and Ka Chun Jimmy Cheuk

This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).

158

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).

Design/methodology/approach

Knit prototypes were constructed using a 7-gauge industrial hand flat knitting machine. The textile prototype swatches developed in this study tested POF illumination in three types of knitting structures: intervallic knit and float stitch structures; POF inlaid into double plain and full cardigan structures; and double plain and partial knitting structures. The illuminative effects of the POFs in seven prototype swatches were analysed and compared.

Findings

It is possible to use an industrial hand flat knitting machine to knit POFs. Longer floats expose more POFs, which boosts illumination but limits the textile’s horizontal stretchability. The openness of the full cardigan structure maximises POF exposure and contributes to even illumination. The partial knitting in different sections achieves the most complete physical integration of POFs into the knitted textiles but constrains the horizontal stretchability of the textiles.

Practical implications

The integration of POFs into knitted textiles provides a functional illuminative effect. Applications include but are not limited to fashion, architecture and interior design.

Originality/value

This study is novel, as it investigates new POF knitted textiles with different loop structures. This study examines how knit stitches affect POFs in intervallic knit and float stitch, inlaid POF double knit, double plain and partial knit and the illuminative effects of the knitted textile.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 March 2024

Azita Asayesh and Fatemeh Kolahi Mahmoodi

Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the…

Abstract

Purpose

Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the case of knitted fabrics. Since, these fabric features are affected by fabric structure the aim of present research is to investigate how utilizing miss stitches and tuck stitches in the fabric structure for design purposes will influence the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock weft-knitted fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, interlock fabrics with different number of miss or tuck stitches on successive Wales were produced and pilling performance and abrasion resistance of the fabrics were investigated.

Findings

The results revealed that increasing the number of miss/tuck stitches on successive Wales decreases the abrasion resistance and enhances the pilling tendency of the fabric. The presence of miss/tuck stitches on both sides of the fabric improves the abrasion resistance and pilling performance of the fabric compared to fabrics containing these stitches on one side of the fabric. Furthermore, the fabric resistance against abrasion and pilling is higher in fabrics consisting of miss stitches compared to fabrics consisting of tuck stitches.

Originality/value

The use of tuck and miss stitches in designing the weft-knitted fabrics is a common method for producing fabrics with variety of knit patterns. Since pilling and abrasion resistance of the fabric influence on its appearance and performance, and none of the previous research studied the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock-knitted fabrics from the point of presence of tuck and miss stitches on successive Wales of the fabric, this subject has been surveyed in the present research.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 12 April 2022

Monica Puri Sikka, Alok Sarkar and Samridhi Garg

With the help of basic physics, the application of computer algorithms in the form of recent advances such as machine learning and neural networking in textile Industry has been…

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Abstract

Purpose

With the help of basic physics, the application of computer algorithms in the form of recent advances such as machine learning and neural networking in textile Industry has been discussed in this review. Scientists have linked the underlying structural or chemical science of textile materials and discovered several strategies for completing some of the most time-consuming tasks with ease and precision. Since the 1980s, computer algorithms and machine learning have been used to aid the majority of the textile testing process. With the rise in demand for automation, deep learning, and neural networks, these two now handle the majority of testing and quality control operations in the form of image processing.

Design/methodology/approach

The state-of-the-art of artificial intelligence (AI) applications in the textile sector is reviewed in this paper. Based on several research problems and AI-based methods, the current literature is evaluated. The research issues are categorized into three categories based on the operation processes of the textile industry, including yarn manufacturing, fabric manufacture and coloration.

Findings

AI-assisted automation has improved not only machine efficiency but also overall industry operations. AI's fundamental concepts have been examined for real-world challenges. Several scientists conducted the majority of the case studies, and they confirmed that image analysis, backpropagation and neural networking may be specifically used as testing techniques in textile material testing. AI can be used to automate processes in various circumstances.

Originality/value

This research conducts a thorough analysis of artificial neural network applications in the textile sector.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 May 2024

Fang Haifeng, Jun Zhang, Hanlin Sun and Lihua Cai

As a new type of spinning machine, the jet spinning machine absorbs the carding system of the rotating cup spinning series and the nozzle part of the jet spinning. This paper aims…

Abstract

Purpose

As a new type of spinning machine, the jet spinning machine absorbs the carding system of the rotating cup spinning series and the nozzle part of the jet spinning. This paper aims to intends to introduce the double carding structure currently studied by the rotating cup spinning into the jet spinning machine, and analyze the influence of the nozzle characteristic number on the flow field in the double carding structure to verify the advantages of the double carding structure.

Design/methodology/approach

The simulation is used to evaluate the performance of single/double split jet spinning and nozzle feature number, verify the technical advantages of double split jet spinning and evaluate the influence of nozzle feature number on flow field. The influence of the nozzle characteristic number on the flow pattern in the four models is compared. The advantages and disadvantages of a conventional single comb and a double comb with a bypass channel on the longer side of the transport channel as an additional air supply channel are also evaluated.

Findings

At present, the double comb technology of rotary cup spinning is being studied at home and abroad to improve the spinning quality and improve the difficult problem of mixed yarn with large difference in processing fiber properties. At present, the jet spinning machine combines the advantages of rotary cup spinning and jet spinning, absorbing the comb system of rotary cup spinning series and the nozzle part of jet spinning. Therefore, it is found that the introduction of the double-split structure into the wool jet spinning has research value to improve the spinning quality.

Originality/value

The purpose of this paper is to refer to the previous research on the double comb structure in rotary spinning, and to apply the double comb structure in the new jet spinning machine to improve the spinning quality. The simulation is used to evaluate the performance of single/double split jet spinning and nozzle feature number, verify the technical advantages of double split jet spinning and evaluate the influence of nozzle feature number on flow field.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 April 2024

Zhe Liu, Yichen Yang and Xiuchen Wang

Stainless-steel electromagnetic shielding (EMS) fabrics are widely applied as protective materials against electromagnetic interference (EMI). However, these fabrics primarily…

Abstract

Purpose

Stainless-steel electromagnetic shielding (EMS) fabrics are widely applied as protective materials against electromagnetic interference (EMI). However, these fabrics primarily shield electromagnetic waves through reflection, which can lead to the formation of resonance effects that severely compromise their protective capabilities and potentially cause secondary electromagnetic pollution in the external environment.

Design/methodology/approach

In this paper, carbon nanotube fibers are added via spacing method to replace some stainless-steel fibers to impart absorbing properties to stainless-steel EMS fabric. The shielding effectiveness (SE) of the EMS fabrics across various polarization directions is analyzed. Additionally, a spacing arrangement for the carbon nanotube fibers is designed. The EMS fabric with carbon nanotube fibers is manufactured using a semi-automatic sample loom, and its SE is tested using a small window method test box in both vertical and horizontal polarization directions.

Findings

According to the experimental data and electromagnetic theory analysis, it is determined that when the spacing between the carbon nanotube fibers is less than a specific distance, the SE of the stainless-steel EMS fabric significantly improves. The fabric exhibits stable absorbing properties within the tested frequency range, effectively addressing the issue of secondary damage that arises from relying solely on reflective shielding. Conversely, as the spacing between the carbon nanotube fibers exceeds this distance, the SE diminishes. Notably, the SE in the vertical polarization direction is substantially higher than that in the horizontal polarization direction at the same frequency.

Originality/value

This study provides a new path for the development of high-performance EMS fabrics with good wave-absorption characteristics and SE.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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