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Article
Publication date: 1 February 2008

Kavita Mathur, Abdel-Fattah M. Seyam, David Hinks and R. Alan Donaldson

Today, Jacquard woven fabric producers are able to digitally control each warp yarn individually, pre-program the variable pick density and speed for each filling yarn, and…

Abstract

Today, Jacquard woven fabric producers are able to digitally control each warp yarn individually, pre-program the variable pick density and speed for each filling yarn, and automatically change a pattern without stopping the weaving process. Jacquard CAD systems dramatically reduce the time to produce fabric from the artwork or target design The process of weave/color selection for each area of the pattern is, however, still highly dependent on the CAD system operator who works from a particular color gamut. Multiple weaving trials are required to get a sample that matches the original artwork since the process requires the designer‘s subjective evaluation. The lack of automatic selection of weaves/color matching prompts this research.

This paper addresses the development of a geometric model for predicting the color contribution of each warp and filling yarn on the fabric surface in terms of construction parameters. The combination of geometric modeling and existing color mixing equations enables the prediction of the final color of different areas of a Jacquard pattern. The model was verified experimentally and a close agreement was found between a color mixing equation and the experimental measurements.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 12 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Case study
Publication date: 20 August 2012

M. S. Sriram and Ankur Sarin

The case explores the growth of Dastkar Andhra Marketing Association (DAMA) and its relationship with its sister organizations, as it works to articulate an alternate model of…

Abstract

The case explores the growth of Dastkar Andhra Marketing Association (DAMA) and its relationship with its sister organizations, as it works to articulate an alternate model of production, distribution and retailing. The case attempts to highlight issues around appropriate interventions in a traditional sector providing livelihood to millions, but confronting the challenges of a modern economy and society. The case would be beneficial in emphasizing the role of market and state failures and the role played by social enterprises in addressing them.

Details

Indian Institute of Management Ahmedabad, vol. no.
Type: Case Study
ISSN: 2633-3260
Published by: Indian Institute of Management Ahmedabad

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 November 2010

I. Sayed, J. Berzowska and M. Skorobogatiy

We present an overview of photonic textile displays woven on a Jacquard loom, using newly discovered polymer photonic bandgap (PBG) fibers that have the ability to change color…

Abstract

We present an overview of photonic textile displays woven on a Jacquard loom, using newly discovered polymer photonic bandgap (PBG) fibers that have the ability to change color and appearance when illuminated with ambient or transmitted light. The photonic fiber can be thin (smaller than 300 microns in diameter) and highly flexible, which makes it possible to weave in the weft on a computerized Jacquard loom and develop intricate double weave structures together with a secondary weft yarn. We demonstrate how PBG fibers enable a variety of color and structural patterns on the textile, and how dynamic imagery can be created by balancing the reflected ambient light and emitted light. Finally, a possible application in security wear for low visibility conditions is described as an example.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 14 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 November 2006

George K. Stylios

Examines the twelfth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects…

1097

Abstract

Examines the twelfth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 18 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 November 2007

George K. Stylios

Examines the thirteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…

1551

Abstract

Examines the thirteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 19 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 1993

Huang Gu

Discusses parameters which would affect the quality of imitation woollen goods made from polyester filaments. Analyses major factors such as raw materials, fabric structure…

Abstract

Discusses parameters which would affect the quality of imitation woollen goods made from polyester filaments. Analyses major factors such as raw materials, fabric structure, dyeing and finishing, etc. which are responsible for the final imitation effects. Includes examples of several typical fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 5 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 November 2005

K. Mathur, A. Donaldson, D. Hinks and A.M. Seyam

Jacquard weaving provides the opportunity for designing an enormous number of complex pictorial and other patterning effects using combinations of warp colors, filling colors and…

Abstract

Jacquard weaving provides the opportunity for designing an enormous number of complex pictorial and other patterning effects using combinations of warp colors, filling colors and integrated weaves. Traditionally, in the fabric design process, the resultant visual perception of the design using different colored yarns can be attained only through the production of actual fabric samples. This is a very time consuming and costly process. In Jacquard woven fabrics, the use of graphical imaging in the creation of the weave structure is very useful, but the accuracy of color rendering is a far more critical attribute. Multiple trials might be required for successful color reproduction in textiles in order to match the desired artwork. In this paper, the problem of achieving accurate color fidelity in the color reproduction of woven fabrics has been addressed, and our attempt to achieve the highest possible color matching accuracy in Jacquard woven fabrics is described. So far, we are quite successful in creating a database of color/weave structures for the quality color reproduction of Jacquard fabrics. Our research places emphasis on synthesizing computer generated color images that are perceptually close to the actual woven samples, with a high degree of color accuracy.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 9 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 29 February 2008

Mithat Zeydan

Jacquard woven fabrics are widely used in various sections of upholstery industry, where mattress cover is one of them. Strength of jacquard woven mattress fabric depends on…

1055

Abstract

Purpose

Jacquard woven fabrics are widely used in various sections of upholstery industry, where mattress cover is one of them. Strength of jacquard woven mattress fabric depends on several factors. The objective of this study is to model the multi‐linear relationship between fibre, yarn and fabric parameters on the strength of fabric using artificial neural network (ANN) and Taguchi design of experiment (TDOE) methodologies.

Design/methodology/approach

TDOE was applied to determine the optimum design values and the contribution of each parameter. Robustness (performance) of models is measured by root mean squared error (RMSE). These tools will enable the user to predict the fabric strength from number of given inputs. It also provides the knowledge related to the contribution of fibre, yarn and fabric parameters on fabric strength. Fabrics tested in this study made from different fibre types and max/min level for several fabric and yarn‐related parameters. The models generated with TDOE and ANN methodologies were compared with the actual experimental data.

Findings

It was found that ANN model gives better approximation with the minimum RMSE.

Research limitations/implications

The data taken from factory are related with jacquard woven fabric.

Practical implications

This study has many practical implications that brings up a general approach for textile industry. During manufacturing, waste or scrap ratio can be reduced and production planning become more efficient.

Originality/value

Firstly, before starting manufacturing in factory, we can easily predict the strength of woven fabric using the defined factors. This makes the model usable at the planning stage of the fabric. Secondly, the contribution of factors affecting fabric strength was determined. The ANN model generated in this study helps the engineers of planning department at the company easy to plan the manufacturing of fabric with a good estimation of fabric strength before the production order.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 March 2015

Inese Parkova, Ivars Parkovs and Ausma Vilumsone

Flexible light-emitting textile display is designed with floats for electronic elements covering and electronic contacts insulation what at the same time provides an opportunity…

1084

Abstract

Purpose

Flexible light-emitting textile display is designed with floats for electronic elements covering and electronic contacts insulation what at the same time provides an opportunity to develop aesthetic design of the display in the single piece construction of material. The paper aims to discuss these issues.

Design/methodology/approach

Display consists of interwoven electrically conductive yarns, non-conductive yarns and SMD LEDs connected to conductive yarns. Industrial jacquard weaving machine have been used, weave patterns were designed in PC-Edit software.

Findings

Weave can be used as a tool to build and evolve electrotextile. Exploring weaving techniques and perceiving electronic circuit as a weave pattern, new approaches can be developed in electrotextile design field.

Research limitations/implications

Connections of electronic elements and conductive textile materials still is actual problem what should be explored in further research.

Practical implications

Flexible light emitting textile display can be used as output interface integrated into communication clothing by representing different animated images directly on clothing. Display also can be used for accessories, room and auto interior etc. applications.

Originality/value

Paper describes method of light source integration directly into textile structure, combining functional and visual design of textile display.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 July 2020

Jialu Liang, Honglian Cong, Zhe Gao, Aijun Zhang and Zhijia Dong

The weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric has the characteristics of complicated design principle and hard technical design. The purpose of this paper is to realize the…

Abstract

Purpose

The weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric has the characteristics of complicated design principle and hard technical design. The purpose of this paper is to realize the computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric, and provide a certain reference for the development of this type of fabric.

Design/methodology/approach

The weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is divided into weft-knitted two-side similar pattern jacquard fabric and weft-knitted two-side independent pattern jacquard fabric. In order to achieve the purpose of this study, firstly, the structural characteristic of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is analyzed. Then, the design principle of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is studied. Next, the technical model of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is established. Finally, the CAD flow chart of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is proposed to realize the rapid product development.

Findings

Based on the above method, through the development example of weft two-side similar pattern jacquard fabric and weft two-side independent pattern jacquard fabric, the computer-aided design of the weft two-side jacquard fabric is verified.

Research limitations/implications

Because of limited research studies, three-dimensional computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric loop structure will be studied in the further research, and the technical design speed needs to be improved to meet the needs of large patterns and positioning patterns.

Practical implications

The computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric will offer a certain reference for product development, technical principles, performance research and computer simulation for the in-depth study of the fabric.

Social implications

The computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric will simplify the fabric design process and improve the efficiency of new fabric development, and provide the industries a time-saving and cost-saving approach for new fabrics development.

Originality/value

The author analyzes the structural characteristic of the fabric by the physical fabric, summarizes design principle of the fabric through production process, uses mathematical methods to establish a three-dimensional technical model of the fabric, and proposes the CAD flow chart of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric, which has good theoretical significance and practice of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

1 – 10 of 85