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Open Access
Article
Publication date: 12 February 2024

Sumith Gopura and Ayesha Wickramasinghe

This paper examines the socio-emotional identities of handloom artisans in Sri Lanka as a novel technique for new product development.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper examines the socio-emotional identities of handloom artisans in Sri Lanka as a novel technique for new product development.

Design/methodology/approach

Qualitative research methods, including observational research and semi-structured interviews with 27 artisans from different handloom communities in Sri Lanka were conducted and analyzed in thematic approach.

Findings

By highlighting the maker of the craft through their socio-emotional identities in an artisan-oriented approach, this paper provides insight into new product development for handloom in alignment with up-and-coming trends. Ultimately, this can increase the demand for handloom and sustain the sector in both local and international fashion markets.

Originality/value

This research study is one of the first of its kind to propose a novel approach for artisan-oriented product development through the application of artisans’ socio-emotional identities.

Details

Journal of Humanities and Applied Social Sciences, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2632-279X

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 25 July 2023

M.K.P. Naik, Prabhas Bhardwaj and Vinaytosh Mishra

This paper aims to identify and analyze the challenges for the Varanasi handloom industry after the COVID pandemic by considering their impact on different sections of the weavers…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to identify and analyze the challenges for the Varanasi handloom industry after the COVID pandemic by considering their impact on different sections of the weavers and subsequently suggest the best possible solution for the same.

Design/methodology/approach

A combined approach of expert opinion and in-depth literature reviews are used to identify the challenges, and a multicriteria decision-making tool is used to rank the challenges for the type of weaver.

Findings

This research provides an elaborated view of the problems faced by the handloom industry after the COVID pandemic and suggests that the success of the handloom business is subjected to the eradication of a wide number of challenges according to the type of weaver.

Practical implications

The findings of this research will help the policymakers to make and align their policies and strategies for the upliftment of the Varanasi handloom industry efficiently and effectively.

Originality/value

To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first kind of study that focuses on identifying and prioritizing the barriers affecting the success of the Varanasi handloom industry after the COVID pandemic. Furthermore, the uniqueness of this research lies in its ability to study all three independent sections of the handloom industry, having different capabilities and limitations.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 May 2023

Bijoy Kumar Dey, Ujjwal Kanti Paul and Gurudas Das

Although handloom is a significant source of livelihood for millions of people in India, it performs poorly compared to other sectors of the economy, which may be the root of…

Abstract

Purpose

Although handloom is a significant source of livelihood for millions of people in India, it performs poorly compared to other sectors of the economy, which may be the root of technical inefficiency. Until now, to measure technical efficiency, no studies have been carried out; therefore, the purpose of this study is to estimate the technical efficiency in the handloom micro-enterprises in India.

Design/methodology/approach

This study includes 427 handloom micro-entrepreneurs from the Indian state of Assam. Using bootstrap truncated regression, the data envelopment analysis (DEA) was used to calculate the technical efficiency and identify the factors responsible for inefficiency.

Findings

The findings of this study reveal that handloom enterprises are 75% pure technically efficient, suggesting room for input reduction. The bootstrap truncated regression results show that education, prior experience, modern technology, ICT, bank loan, training, gender and location significantly influence the technical efficiency of handloom enterprises.

Research limitations/implications

Despite recent advances in the DEA method, this study used a traditional form of DEA. This study used only one output and a limited set of inputs. Better results could have been obtained by expanding the number of inputs and output. Finally, the data for this study has been obtained from a very narrow geographic area. The production practices of the handloom enterprises in other parts of the region and other states might vary considerably.

Practical implications

Technical efficiency measurement has management implications for businesses because it allows entrepreneurs to determine how much less input is required to produce the same output. A meticulous analysis can pinpoint the causes of inefficiency.

Originality/value

This paper aims to make two significant contributions to the extant literature. First, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, no published document has analyzed the technical efficiency of handloom micro-enterprises anywhere in the world. The authors fill this void by systematically analyzing the technical efficiency of the handloom industry in Assam.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 May 2020

Thushari Wanniarachchi, Kanchana Dissanayake and Carolyn Downs

The purpose of this study is to assess sustainability across the handloom industry in Sri Lanka and identify opportunities for sustainable innovations supporting new markets…

1910

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to assess sustainability across the handloom industry in Sri Lanka and identify opportunities for sustainable innovations supporting new markets, development of small-and-medium enterprises (SMEs) and growth in the Sri Lankan craft sector.

Design/methodology/approach

Using a multiple case studies methodology, 10 case studies and 37 semi-structured interviews were analysed along with the triple-layered business model canvas.

Findings

The study reveals the handloom industry to be fundamentally sustainable but with structural barriers that hinder both innovation and growth. The environmentally conscious production process and social inclusion within weaving communities are the key driving forces of sustainability in the sector; however, the structure of the industry and lack of access to markets and information act as barriers to both innovation and growth. The incorporation of design interventions, closed-loop manufacturing strategies and the encouragement of community-based entrepreneurship would support sustainability-orientated business innovation in the handloom industry.

Originality/value

The rapidly increasing market share for high-quality, hand-made goods indicates the potential of the creative industries to accelerate socio-economic growth. Handloom textiles is attracting growing interest in fashion markets because of increasing concern about exploitation in production, thus encouraging interest in the economic benefits of fairly traded, high quality materials and the potential contribution of handloom to sustainability in the fashion industry. The results of this study will support the handloom industry and policy-makers in developing support for sustainable innovation in the handloom industry.

Article
Publication date: 29 September 2021

Sabiha Khatoon and Ayesha Iffat

The study aims to analyse the challenges faced by the Indian Handloom Sector with a special focus on the state of Uttar Pradesh before and during the COVID-19 pandemic. This study…

Abstract

Purpose

The study aims to analyse the challenges faced by the Indian Handloom Sector with a special focus on the state of Uttar Pradesh before and during the COVID-19 pandemic. This study further explores the benefits of AatmaNirbhar Bharat Abhiyan for the betterment of the livelihood of the COVID-19–hit handloom weavers and allied workers.

Design/methodology/approach

A total of 400 handloom weavers and allied workers from ten cities of Uttar Pradesh were contacted through telephone. Descriptive statistics were applied to measure the awareness about the government welfare schemes and the benefits of these schemes. Furthermore, satisfaction and opinion of the handloom weavers and allied workers regarding the benefits and sufficiency of the funds received under these schemes have also been measured.

Findings

Based on the results, the least awareness has been noted about government welfare schemes. However, a small number of weavers and allied workers were found beneficiaries of the schemes. Additionally, the majority of the respondents were found dissatisfied with the benefits. The COVID-19 pandemic is an addendum to the plight of handloom weavers and allied workers. The measures of AatmaNirbhar Bharat Abhiyan could be used to aid weavers and allied workers to restore their lost revenue.

Research limitations/implications

This study has limitations. Firstly, the research is limited to the handloom industry of Uttar Pradesh. Future researchers could consider the handloom sector of other states like Maharashtra and Andhra Pradesh, known for hand-woven clothes. Secondly, this study aims to analyse the role of AatmaNirbhar Bharat Abhiyan in improving the living conditions of handloom weavers and allied workers and not to measure the impact of the Abhiyan on handloom weavers or the handloom sector. Researchers could measure the impact in future studies. Thirdly, the authors have not applied any behavioural theory or marketing models such as the Theory of Reasoned Action or the Blackwell model, which may be applied to study the attitude of handloom weavers towards welfare schemes. This may prove to be a potential direction for future research. Additionally, master weavers and handloom cooperatives societies were excluded while collecting the data. Future researchers could consider them to examine the role of the government’s welfare schemes for uplifting the socio-economic condition of the handloom weavers, allied workers, master weavers and the business of cooperative societies. Finally, due to lockdown and travel ban, the authors were forced to limit their survey to telephone only because of which they could not get the qualitative information in full. Researchers for future studies could visit the handloom concentrated areas personally or take the help of an enumerator for data collection.

Practical implications

The research holds significance for the young and competent designers, handloom weavers and allied workers. Designers could work with and hire handloom weavers of Uttar Pradesh. If designers and weavers work together, it will help them restore their business and generate revenue that they have lost due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Furthermore, policymakers can collaborate with designers, which will help enhance the socio-economic condition of handloom weavers and allied workers, which has deteriorated due to the COVID-19 crisis.

Originality/value

The research holds significance from the point of view of exploring the challenges faced by handloom weavers and allied workers of the state of UP before and during the COVID-19 period while examining the role of AatmaNirbhar Bharat Abhiyan in setting off these challenges.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 26 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 30 August 2021

Mst Tania Parvin, Regina Birner and Ashrafun Nahar

The purpose of this study is to empirically estimate the impact of a government microcredit program on the handloom weavers to promote small and medium enterprises (SMEs) in…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to empirically estimate the impact of a government microcredit program on the handloom weavers to promote small and medium enterprises (SMEs) in Bangladesh.

Design/methodology/approach

The data were collected from 311 handloom weavers from the Sirajganj District of Bangladesh from July to December 2015 using a multistage sampling technique. The analysis was conducted using a two-stage least squares regression model incorporating instrumental variables to control for the probable endogeneity problem associated with the study.

Findings

This study finds that government microcredit had no significant impact on borrowers' investment in their business, whereas credit received from multiple sources other than government credit had a significant negative impact. Additionally, literacy level, household assets and the number of operational handloom units positively affected investment, while the number of non-operational handloom units and distance negatively affected the investment.

Research limitations/implications

This study's findings are more specific for the selected case and may not be generalizable to all kinds of SMEs.

Practical implications

The policy implications are targeted at increasing loan size based on the number of operational handloom units to improve the performance of government and other microcredit programs to facilitate the growth of SMEs in Bangladesh.

Originality/value

This study specifically focuses on estimating the financial performance of government microcredit programs for SME development within the handloom industry, which has not been sufficiently explored in the literature.

Details

South Asian Journal of Business Studies, vol. 12 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2398-628X

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 20 November 2020

Sangeetha K. Prathap and Sreelaksmi C.C.

Consumers often face a dilemma regarding the purchase decisions of traditional handloom apparel because of the non-availability of information cues that would enable them to…

5120

Abstract

Purpose

Consumers often face a dilemma regarding the purchase decisions of traditional handloom apparel because of the non-availability of information cues that would enable them to assess the quality of the product. The spread of counterfeit products in the market adds to information asymmetry. The study aims to examine factors influencing purchase intention of traditional handloom apparel that have Geographical Indication (GI) certification, which follows the certification procedure specified by the World Intellectual Property Organisation (WIPO).

Design/methodology/approach

A survey was conducted among 202 traditional handloom apparel consumers in India and the data was analysed using structural equation modelling. The purchase intention of GI certified handloom apparels was examined as the dependent variable, whereas quality consciousness, product diagnosticity, perceived information asymmetry were placed as independent variables. The mediating role of perceived quality and product trust in the relation between perceived information asymmetry and purchase intention was also looked into.

Findings

Results reveal that quality consciousness positively influences product diagnosticity (facilitated by the GI label certification) which in turn reduces perceived information asymmetry. Further, a reduction in perceived information asymmetry was found to increase the purchase intention of traditional handloom apparel, fully mediated by the perceived quality and product trust.

Research limitations/implications

The customers who are facing a dearth of information while making purchase of traditional handlooms will be benefitted from the GI certification label which provides authenticity regarding product attributes confirming quality. Further, the study adds to the theory by establishing the relation between quality consciousness and perceived information asymmetry.

Practical implications

The findings imply that GI handloom apparel sellers should design marketing strategies that would project GI certification labels for traditional handloom apparel to effectively communicate product quality attributes, thus enhance product diagnosticity reducing information asymmetry. While organic certification for agricultural products is done at the individual producer’s level, GI certification is done under the producer’s collective label. Further, studies may be extended to agricultural products (Darjeeling tea, Alphonso mangoes, etc.), food items (rasgulla, Thirupathi laddoo, etc.) and handicrafts (Aranmula Mirror, Payyannur pavithra ring) that have acquired GI label in India. GI certification is adopted worldwide and studies may be extended to such products also [example Parma ham (Italy), Hessian wine (Germany)].

Originality/value

Empirical research on determinants of consumer purchase intentions of GI certified traditional handloom apparel is a novel attempt done in the context of a developing country such as India. The study brings out the importance of the GI certification label envisaged by the WIPO, which can serve as a tool for reducing uncertainties faced by consumer in framing purchasing intentions. This can be extended to any product type such as agricultural, food products and handicrafts that has acquired GI certifications in different countries. The study revealed that product diagnosticity (through GI certification) could reduce perceived information asymmetry that leads the consumer to the perception of quality and product trust which results in the purchase intention of traditional handloom apparel. The outcomes of the study can be instrumental in designing marketing strategies for capturing market share.

Details

Journal of Humanities and Applied Social Sciences, vol. 4 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN:

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 October 2013

Alin Borah Bortamuly, Kishor Goswami and Bhabesh Hazarika

The purpose of this paper is to focus on the determinants of occupational choice of workers in the handloom industry in Assam and to examine the variables that influence the…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to focus on the determinants of occupational choice of workers in the handloom industry in Assam and to examine the variables that influence the occupational choice of the workers.

Design/methodology/approach

Primary data were collected from nine handloom concentrated districts in Assam. Multinomial and binary logistic regression models are used to analyse the data of three mutually exclusive occupations of workers namely owners, weavers, and reelers.

Findings

The results from the tested empirical model show that annual income, education, access to modern technology, and family size are the significant variables that help in transforming the reelers to owners. Similarly, annual income, education, and access to formal credit are the important variables that help in transforming the reelers to weavers. Access to modern technology appears as the most important factor in the occupational shift from weavers to handloom owners.

Research limitations/implications

Present study has some limitations. It considers only a few variables related to economic and socio-demographic issues. There is further scope of research incorporating more variables such as personal savings, healthcare facilities, availability of hank yarn, marketing facilities, etc. Limitation of data in the worker category helper is another finding constraint.

Practical implications

Such studies in the handloom sector in Assam are limited and thus the present study greatly extends the understanding of the occupational choice of the workers in Assam's handloom industry.

Originality/value

Previous studies on handloom industry concentrated predominantly on the economic condition of the workers using mostly multiple regression technique. The present study deviates from normal research by using multinomial and binomial logistic regressions, which analyse the likelihood of occupational shift of the workers. The findings can be generalized to other handicraft-based small industry.

Details

International Journal of Social Economics, vol. 40 no. 12
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0306-8293

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 November 2023

Sayana Basu

In light of the COVID-19 pandemic's economic effects, this paper focuses on how home-based women artisans running their family businesses plan their operations to function in the…

Abstract

Purpose

In light of the COVID-19 pandemic's economic effects, this paper focuses on how home-based women artisans running their family businesses plan their operations to function in the “new normal” environment. The paper emphasises the adaptability and reorientation of business strategies displayed by women entrepreneurs in response to the changing work environment. The paper argues that the women's sense of agency after years of running the family business enables them to bargain and offer passive resistance to the family's power, with the latter aiming to curtail their entrepreneurial gains as the men return to their homes after losing their jobs with the onset of the pandemic.

Design/methodology/approach

The research draws from a qualitative study that was conducted employing field surveys and in-depth interviews with the women entrepreneurs in four important handloom clusters in Nadia, West Bengal (India) in 2022. The empirical evidence is gathered from five months of extensive ethnographic study with 66 home-based women entrepreneurs belonging to 26 handloom family enterprises. Semi-structured, in-depth interviews and the following narrative analysis have been used to comprehend the complex and dynamic conception of female entrepreneurship and women's agency to pivot business strategies during the economic turmoil of the COVID-19 pandemic.

Findings

As a result of the abrupt suspension of the textile industry and the partial or total closure of the traditional and contemporary markets due to the COVID-19 pandemic, women from family handloom enterprises are taking steps to strengthen their entrepreneurial resistance. Although women entrepreneurs had spent years running the family business in the absence of their husbands, the pandemic exacerbated the deep-seated gender disparities within the family when social norms threatened to undo the hard-won progress made by them. However, their sense of agency enables them to plan well and resist the patriarchal onslaught with a variety of potentials, utilising tools of active and/or passive resistance within an environment of concrete limits and oppressions.

Originality/value

The paper contributes to the literature on women's entrepreneurial capacity by focusing on how the COVID-19 crisis and changing market demands enable gendered reactions in family enterprises. While men, back home after losing their jobs, choose to strengthen their individual identities and power positions by trying to retain control over the family business, women contribute to collective actions for enhancing the resilience of the community by pivoting their business strategies and implementing new ideas to suit new market conditions. Women thus play a central role in fostering social cohesion, helping build and maintain relationships, promoting empathy, and creating a sense of belonging, which strengthen community bonds and cooperation. The paper shows how women's entrepreneurial resilience and responsibility provide an important basis for organizing sustainable collective action for the survival of the artisanal community during crisis situations.

Details

International Journal of Gender and Entrepreneurship, vol. 15 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1756-6266

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 May 2023

Bijoy Kumar Dey and Ujjwal Kanti Paul

This study aims to extend the discussion on firm profitability to include handloom enterprises in India.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to extend the discussion on firm profitability to include handloom enterprises in India.

Design/methodology/approach

This study uses a random sample of 427 handloom microentrepreneurs from the Indian state of Assam. The seemingly unrelated regression model is used to determine the profitability drivers in India’s handloom enterprises.

Findings

The empirical results revealed that human, financial and social capital, along with their control variables such as information and communication technology, firm size and sales distribution, are the main drivers of profitability of Indian handloom enterprises.

Originality/value

To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this study is the first to offer an in-depth insight into what makes profitability in the handloom enterprises in India, the world’s second-largest reservoir of the handloom industry.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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