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Article
Publication date: 20 May 2024

Berihun Bizuneh, Abrham Destaw and Fasika Hailu

This paper aims to investigate fit problems with some ready-to-wear garments, analyse the body measurements of Ethiopian young female consumers and draw implications for the…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to investigate fit problems with some ready-to-wear garments, analyse the body measurements of Ethiopian young female consumers and draw implications for the improvement of ready-to-wear garment fit.

Design/methodology/approach

A random sample of 970 university students aged 18–35 years were interviewed, and their 35 body dimensions were measured manually according to the procedures in ISO 8559: 2017. The fit problems and body measurements were examined with the body mass index (BMI) and ethnicity of the subjects. Moreover, 15 body dimensions were compared with that of Chinese and US females of similar age.

Findings

The results showed that fit problems are frequent in lower garments for underweight consumers. Nearly consistent and smaller differences in body measurements were observed with BMIs and ethnicity of the subjects, while inconsistent and larger differences were found among the subjects from the three countries. The Ethiopian subjects were smaller than the Chinese in height and weight, between the Chinese and US females in most body measurements, and larger than the US subjects in across shoulder and arm and shoulder lengths. The results alarm the need for the development of Ethiopian national garment size standards.

Originality/value

The paper relates ready-to-wear garment fit issues to demographic factors and demographic factors to body measurements. Moreover, it considers young female consumers in Ethiopia, an African country with less explored consumer needs for clothing.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 March 2024

Arzu Şen Kılıç, Can Ünal and Ziynet Ondogan

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement…

Abstract

Purpose

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers’ patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method.

Findings

According to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production.

Originality/value

In the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 21 May 2024

Paula Wren

Online fashion retailers offer body measurement guidance, alongside their target consumer body size charts and fit information, to help consumers select the right size garment as…

Abstract

Purpose

Online fashion retailers offer body measurement guidance, alongside their target consumer body size charts and fit information, to help consumers select the right size garment as the garment cannot be tried on. Its use by retailers suggests it can act as a means of mitigating garment returns as there has been a noted increase in returns due to incorrect size selection even though body measurement instructions are provided online. The purpose of this research is to determine how consumers interact with body measurement guidance, how they interpret it and use it, thereby interrogating its efficacy.

Design/methodology/approach

An exploratory investigation was undertaken. Thirty participants were recruited and given a choice of fashion retailers' body measurement guidance and a tape measure. They took their body measurements over their clothes. A technician repeated the task, thereby providing two sets of body measurements. A paired t-test determined if there was a significant difference in both values in terms of their mean. Technicians also documented their observations of how the participants interacted with the task. The content of the fashion retailer measurement guidance was then compared to that of published anthropometric guidance for surveys.

Findings

Participants were familiar with the guidance and tape-measure; they were able to self-measure. The fashion retailer measurement guidance, however, lacked detail/clarity in visuals and written content when compared to anthropometric guidance. Interpretation of the guidance differed between participant and technician. This resulted in a significant difference in circumference measurements for the bust/chest and hips, yet no significant difference in waist and inside-leg measurements. For measurements that were difficult to take unaided, participants devised novel practices which resulted in little divergence from the technician taken body measurements. The results question the guidance efficacy in its current form.

Originality/value

There has been no study which addresses how consumers interpret and interact with fashion retailers' online measurement guidance. This is important as this can mitigate garment returns. This research provides insight to influence fashion retailers' measurement guidance policy. It also adds to the existing body of knowledge surrounding anthropometric practice for clothing.

Research limitations/implications

The findings indicated that fashion retailers need to revise their body measurement guidance content. The content needs to be more comprehensive but still use accessible language and visuals. The broader implications of this study highlight that traditional anthropometrics for self-taken body measurement needs developing as an emerging concept through clothing-related academic study.

Practical implications

Fashion retailers' measurement guidance needs to be more comprehensive but still use accessible language and visuals. The broader implications of this study highlight that traditional anthropometrics for self-taken body measurement needs further investigation and documentation as an emerging concept through clothing-related academic study.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 6 June 2024

Reannan Boisvert, Meredith McQuerry and Sheryl Schofield

Clothing fit, including garment ease and drape, impacts the volume of air between clothing layers and the body, directly affecting the amount of heat that can be transferred…

Abstract

Purpose

Clothing fit, including garment ease and drape, impacts the volume of air between clothing layers and the body, directly affecting the amount of heat that can be transferred through a multi-layer clothing system. As most acute firefighting fatalities are caused by overexertion and heat strain, the purpose of this research was to determine the impact of ease allowances on air gaps in structural firefighting turnout suits and their subsequent effect on total heat loss (THL) when worn on a three-dimensional form.

Design/methodology/approach

Four turnout suits with chest ease allowances of 6″, 8″, 10″ and 12″ were evaluated using an ANDI dynamic sweating thermal manikin. The average predicted manikin THL of each ensemble was calculated from the thermal and evaporative resistance measurements. A three-dimensional (3D) body scanner was utilized to calculate the distance and volume of clothing air gaps between the base layer and each turnout suit.

Findings

Results demonstrate that reductions in upper body ease measurements trend towards statistically significant increases in THL, to a point, with fit limitations being reached before benefits can be significantly realized. An increase in standard chest ease measurements significantly decreased heat loss, even when forced convection from movement was considered.

Originality/value

This is the first article of its kind to explore the relationship between garment ease and predicted manikin THL, especially for fire service protective clothing. Findings indicate a valid recommendation for turnout gear designers and manufacturers to optimize clothing fit to improve breathability and potentially reduce incidents of heat strain in the fire service.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 24 July 2024

Jennifer Lee

The purpose of this study was to address a gap in the current literature by examining the integration of 3D digital prototyping technology in the co-creation process of new…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study was to address a gap in the current literature by examining the integration of 3D digital prototyping technology in the co-creation process of new sustainable and multi-functional healthcare PPE clothing design in collaboration with real users.

Design/methodology/approach

Within the user-centered design framework, 35 participants from major hospitals, along with fashion college students in New York City, actively engaged in the co-creation innovation process for this research. Data collection and analysis were conducted through interview-based qualitative analysis, using the content analysis method.

Findings

The results highlight the effectiveness of integrating 3D digital prototyping technologies in the co-creation innovation process in achieving all research objectives, including fulfilling users’ health care PPE clothing needs.

Originality/value

This case study presents an example of co-creation innovation in collaboration with actual industry users, exploring the effectiveness of 3D digital prototyping for the co-creation process. The findings of this study can be used to formulate future research studies.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 11 April 2024

Youngsook Kim and Fatma Baytar

The research evaluated the feasibility of 3D dynamic fit utilizing female compression tops by comparatively analyzing the virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Abstract

Purpose

The research evaluated the feasibility of 3D dynamic fit utilizing female compression tops by comparatively analyzing the virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Design/methodology/approach

Six female participants were 3D body-scanned and photographed in compression tops in four types of athletic movements (pull-up, kettlebell swing, circle-crunch and sit-up). Fit measurements, waist cross-sectional areas, waist width, waist depth, numerical simulation of clothing pressure (kPa) and objective pressure measurements (kPa) were collected from 3D virtual animation, 3D fit scan data and actual photos with the four types of athletic motions. The data were comparatively investigated between virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Findings

The 3D-animated body was not reflected with human body deformation because only bone structure was changed while maintaining the constant forms of muscle and body surface in athletic movements. Due to this consistency of virtual dynamic fit, there were significant differences with the actual dynamic fit at the top length, shoulder width and waist cross-sectional areas. Also, the virtual dynamic pressure indicated significantly higher levels than the objective dynamic pressure while presenting no significant correlations at the front neckline, breast, lateral waist, upper back, back armhole and back waist.

Originality/value

This study is the first to verify multiple aspects of virtual dynamic fit using 3D digital technology. This study provided useful information about which aspects of the current virtual animation need to be improved to apply in the dynamic fit evaluation.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 September 2022

Suranjan Lahiri, Anannya Deb Roy and Prabir Jana

This study aims to conduct an exploratory research to find out the evolving constructs and variables of digital literacy, as seen by researchers since its inception. This research…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to conduct an exploratory research to find out the evolving constructs and variables of digital literacy, as seen by researchers since its inception. This research also includes an empirical study to identify and further analyze the digital literacy dimensions of university students studying fashion design program in Kolkata, India.

Design/methodology/approach

The exploratory study is based on a review of extant literature, whereas the empirical study is carried out through a self-assessment survey based on UNESCOs Digital Literacy Global Framework competences after validating their relevance with respect to the fashion and apparel industry. A total of 120 university students studying four years Bachelor of Design (Fashion Design) program were asked to rate their digital literacy competences on a five-point Likert scale, with a self-reported truth response against each statement. The results were analyzed using multivariate statistical tools.

Findings

Based on UNESCO competences, it came out that there are eight digital literacy dimensions. ANOVA further confirms that the dimensions requiring higher-order cognition, such as “software management competence” and “digital citizenship competence,” increase with progress in the graduate program. However, lower-order competence dimensions remained unchanged over time.

Originality/value

The research instrument used for this empirical study, its identified dimensions and the fact that higher-order competence dimensions are enhanced with progression in university education may be helpful for similar research in other fashion-related programs.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 July 2024

Hyo Jung (Julie) Chang, Mohammad Abu Nasir Rakib, Md Kamrul Hasan Foysal and Jo Woon Chong

The comfort of apparel is not only a feeling of perception but also a tangible measure. The fit and fabric of clothing can exert a perception of comfort for the wearer, whereas…

Abstract

Purpose

The comfort of apparel is not only a feeling of perception but also a tangible measure. The fit and fabric of clothing can exert a perception of comfort for the wearer, whereas actual comfort largely depends on physiological and emotional soothing. However, there is still no solid work on connecting the bridge between physiological and emotional feelings to the comfort of clothing. In this study, we have conceptualized, formulated and proven the relation between physiological and emotional parameters with clothing fit and fabric to find the true comfort of the wearer.

Design/methodology/approach

A mixed-method research design using physiological and emotional parameters for different fabric and fit combinations were used for this study. The physiological comfort parameters (i.e. heart rate and respiration rate) are extracted from the subjects using gold-standard clinical devices for various fit and fabric combinations. For the emotional response, a survey was conducted for the same subjects wearing all the fit and fabric combinations. Statistical analysis and modeling were performed to obtain the results.

Findings

Physiological indicators such as heart rate are closely linked with user comfort. Due to the limitations in environmental control, the physiological changes obtained did not significantly vary for different fabric and fit combinations of the clothing. However, a significant change in emotional response indicated a definite relationship between different fabric and fit types. Based on the participants’ responses, weather conditions, size of the clothing item, types of fabrics and style also influence the participants’ choice of clothing.

Originality/value

The research was conducted to discover the relation between true comfort (physiological and emotional parameters) and clothing (fit and fabric), which is unique to the field. This study closes the gap and builds up the relationship, which can help introduce clothing comfort to users in the future. The findings of this study help us understand how fabric types (natural or synthetic) and clothing fit types (loose or fitted) can affect physiological and emotional responses, which can provide the consumer with satisfactory clothing with the suitable properties needed.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 22 September 2023

Chanmi Hwang, Byoungho Jin, Linfeng Song and Jing Feng

The purpose of this paper is to examine the factors that influence older adults' intention to use virtual fitting room technology during the COVID-19 pandemic based on the…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to examine the factors that influence older adults' intention to use virtual fitting room technology during the COVID-19 pandemic based on the extended technology acceptance model (TAM).

Design/methodology/approach

An online survey was conducted with a sample of older adults from 60 to 90 years old (n = 819). A structural equation modeling was conducted to test a proposed research model.

Findings

The results revealed that older adults' behavioral intentions were positively influenced by perceived usefulness and ease of use, and fear of infection during the pandemic was significantly related to the perceived usefulness. Fit concern was not significantly related to perceived usefulness of virtual fitting room technology.

Originality

This research extends the TAM by adding antecedents to perceived usefulness in explaining older adults' adoption of virtual fitting technology.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 28 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 May 2024

Yijie Zhang, Ziyi Guo, Jiangang Wei and Yijun Li

The aim of this paper is to achieve a reasonable microclimate between clothing and the human body and optimize the custom dress pattern.

Abstract

Purpose

The aim of this paper is to achieve a reasonable microclimate between clothing and the human body and optimize the custom dress pattern.

Design/methodology/approach

An interactive design method of 3D modeling, virtual try-on and heat transfer simulation are used. First, a 3D dress is designed with nonuniform rational B-splines curves and tried on virtually. After that, the heat transfer in the body-air-clothing microclimate and temperature distributions on the clothing surface are obtained. Based on the heat transfer in the body-air-clothing system, we design a method to improve the thermal comfort by optimizing the garment pattern digitally. Then, this paper utilized two heat transfer validating indexes to quantify the improvement of thermal comfort, and evaluate the modified model of dress.

Findings

The microclimate under the clothing is varied with the air gap distance, and the heat transfer on the area of the clavicle, bust point and front abandon are higher than other parts due to the narrow air gaps. In view of thermal comfort, the pattern optimization changes the distance ease and reforms the air circulating efficiency. The mean heat transfer and its standard variance are changing by about 10% and more than 20%. Thus, the heat transfer evaluation indexes are suitable to represent the heat transfer and thermal comfort in the microclimate system.

Research limitations/implications

It can be concluded that the methodology proposed in this paper has the advantage of interactive design, 3D visualization and local heat transfer simulation. This technology meets the need of personalized customization and well-considered garment and has broad application prospects.

Originality/value

This study demonstrates that modifying the distance ease on body key girths based on heat transfer is a reliable way to improve thermal comfort. This method meets the consumers’ demand of the comfort of body-fit clothing under the condition of daily activities.

Highlights

  • 3D air gap distributions.

  • Heat transfer varies with air gap distance.

  • Thermal comfort can be improved by optimizing garment pattern.

3D air gap distributions.

Heat transfer varies with air gap distance.

Thermal comfort can be improved by optimizing garment pattern.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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