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The purpose of this paper is to use a systematic model for detecting misfit between the garment and the target group.

Using an empirical–analytical methodology, the systematic model was tested. The input data were run through the model to generate the output data, which were analysed, including basic statistics. The purpose of the analysis was to detect misfit and improve the garment measurement chart. This procedure was repeated until a clear result was reached.

The result of this study is an optimised garment measurement chart, which considers the garment’s ease, different sizes/proportions in relation to a target group. The results show that it is possible to use a systematic model to define the shortcomings of a garment´s range of sizes and proportions.

Further studies are needed to verify the results of the theoretical garment fit and their values in relation to real garment fit.

If the systematic model is implemented to improve the theoretical garment fit, this may have effects on the available garment sizes and its proportions, resulting in increased theoretical garment fit for the target group.

The paper presents a systematic model for detecting and eliminating theoretical fitting; the model includes both garment ease allowance and defined points of misfit.

The purpose of this paper is to illustrate the generation of basic garment pattern using three‐dimensional body measurement data.

A pre‐defined garment model is deformed using free‐form deformation method and the model is flattened to generate flat patterns.

The paper finds that individual basic garment patterns are automatically generated and verified to be well fit on human subjects.

The current approach is to focus on the generation of basic bodice patterns; however, other patterns can also be generated by this method by preparing more garment models.

This method can reduce the time required to design basic patterns as well as enhance their fitness.

The automatic generation of individually fitted garment pattern is one of the most important steps in future garment production process.

The research is made in view of the anthropometry information obtaining problem in garment MTM on the network mode. The purpose of this paper is to obtain anthropometry information in a convenient and detailed way in garment MTM on the network mode.

First of all, 24 main measurement sizes of 427 young females are collected to constitute the measurement database. The database is used as background data support of the system. The images are captured to simplify the way of inputting the anthropometry information to the system. Through the 2D feature sizes extracted from body image and the basic dimensions provided by customer input to the system, so that to gain the body sample which is closest to the customer body type through query matching in the database. The detailed anthropometry information of the closest sample is used to describe the customer. The human body measurement database and the technology of body image acquisition are used to extract the feature sizes to achieve obtaining the anthropometry information in a convenient and detailed way.

Through query matching to the customer in a test, the body sample closest to the customer is gained, and the matching error rate is 0.0132. In the end, some customer samples are input to test the system, in order to verify the effectiveness of system functions. The matching error rates of five body types are gained all less than 0.006. The error is small, and the matching result is ideal.

The size of database established in the paper can be increased constantly in the future to obtain the more accurately matching result.

The research of anthropometry information obtaining system in garment MTM on the network mode is the basis to achieve gaining the anthropometry information in a convenient and detailed way.

Applying the established system of human body measurement information acquisition in this paper, it can achieve to obtain the detailed measurement information of customer through a convenient way, combining the method of human body parameter model establishment in the existing research, it can achieve the complete network tailored mode with detailed measurement information acquisition and 3D virtual fitting functions. And it can provide the most convenient experience and the most ideal garment MTM effect to the customer. This mode can be forecast to be an ideal form of garment MTM on the network in the future.

The anthropometry information obtaining system is the important part of garment MTM system on the network mode. It should be applied to the network mode and can obtain the detailed measurements for garment MTM. In this paper, the human body measurement database and the technology of body image acquisition are used in order to extract the feature size to obtain the anthropometry information in a convenient and detailed way.

Prior to implementing computerised pattern alterations for figuration on a commercial CAD system, a large database with reference to the standard graded patterns, the alteration movements and relevant information needs to be generated. There are many difficulties in creating grade rules and alteration movements, especially for the bust suppression and the shaped sleeve. In order to obtain sophisticated patterns with a good fit for MTM (made‐to‐measure) clothing, the authors' pattern alteration technique is a combination of pattern design construction and grading. The procedure is divided into ten stages and the practical verification was carried out in the form of seven case studies. In addition, drafting rules on the MicroFit system for automatic pattern generation are demonstrated by converting the numerical grade rules created on the GGT AccuMark system into body‐related formulae.

Following the investigations of sizing systems and size codes in the first part of this study (published in JFMM 4/1), comparative analysis of three systems of pattern design construction is carried out. The relevant pattern dimensions are then formulated so as to implement computerised made‐to‐measure (MTM) pattern generation for the construction of the bodice and sleeve blocks. Based on these new formulations, the establishment of the proposed size charts is simplified and a construction plan is presented to illustrate the new pattern construction system. This is developed to be both logical and flexible for application to different female figure types. In addition, a grade plan is recommended for advanced pattern grading.

The purpose of this paper is to develop a multi‐purpose body form that could be used to develop different types of garments by putting body skins with ease on the standard body form.

Free form deformation method was used to generate a virtual model upon the basis of the averaged wire frame. The virtual model was made into a real‐life model by a rapid prototyping (RP) process, and then, the standard body form was made by molding the RP. The 3D polygon shell for a body skin got flattened down to 2D patterns and made by a urethane material.

The standard body form developed by using 3D body scan data better represented the characteristics of the body shapes than the previously hand‐made ones. In addition, by standardizing the production of the body form itself, it is now possible to make body forms into the standards and be consistent in their qualities.

This paper presents the methodology of utilizing 3D body scan data in a garment design, which is possible by incorporating advanced 3D modeling technologies and 3D data of a human body in making body forms. For the mass production of a body skin, it is necessary to develop various special materials simulating soft tissues.

The apparel industry can enjoy cost cutting effects by using this multi‐purpose body form. A company does not have to spend money in purchasing different sizes and shapes of body forms, let alone saving the spaces to store them once purchased.

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and interaction to design 3D garments and 2D patterns. The proposed scheme has the potential to satisfy the individual needs of fashion industry, such as precise fit evaluation of the garment, interactive style editing with ease allowance and constrained contour lines in fashion design.

The authors first construct a parametric pattern-making model for flat pattern design corresponding to the body dimensions. Then, the designing 2D patterns are stitched on a virtual 3D mannequin by performing a virtual try-on. If the customer is unsatisfied after the virtual try-on, the adjustable parameters (appearance parameters and fit parameters) can be adjusted using the 2D–3D linkage editing with hierarchical constrained contour lines, and the fit evaluation tool interactively provides the feedback.

The authors observed that the usability and efficiency of the existing garment pattern-making method simplifies the garment pattern-making process. The authors utilize an interactive garment parametric flat pattern-making model to generate an individualized garment flat pattern that effectively adjust and realize the local editing of the garment pattern-making. The 2D–3D linkage editing is then employed, which alters the size and shape of garment pattern for a precise human model fit of the 3D garment using hierarchical constrained contour lines. Various instances have validated the effectiveness of the proposed scheme, which can increase the reusability of the existing garment styles and improve the efficiency of fashion design.

First, the authors do not consider the garment pattern-making design of sophisticated styles. Second, the authors do not directly consider complex garment shapes such as wrinkles, folds, multi-layer models and fabric physical properties.

The authors propose a pattern adjustment scheme that uses the 3D virtual try-on technology to avoid repetitions of reality-based fit tests and garment sample making in the designing process of clothing products. The proposed scheme provides interactive selections of garment patterns and sizes and renders modification tools for 3D garment designing and 2D garment pattern-making. The authors present the 2D–3D interactive linkage editing scheme for a custom-fit garment pattern based on the hierarchical constraint contour lines. The spatial relationship among the human body, pattern pieces and 3D garment model is adequately expressed, and the final design result of the garment pattern is obtained by constraint solving. Meanwhile, the tightness tension of different parts of the 3D garment is analyzed, and the fit and comfort of the garment are quantitatively evaluated.

The purpose of this paper is to concentrate on the development of individualized prototype of apparel patterns for young females from 3D body scanning data.

The authors presented a new pattern-making approach that is composed of three major steps: to establish the relationships between body features and corresponding elements in a prototype (e.g. curve or a point); to classify the relationship into grades that provide alternatives to fit a variety of bodies; and to assemble each individual element into a personalized prototype.

The experiment demonstrated that this method could be used for customized prototype development from 3D body scanning in a relatively easy way.

Currently, the subjects of this study included only Chinese young females, and the regression models were just suitable for the similar body types though, the research method could be extended to other somatotypes and age groups.

This approach can be used in the field of made-to-measure, mass customization, and the quick response for apparel pattern making. The technology in this paper facilitates to generate an individualized pattern prototype from 3D body scanning data.

Originated from the relationship between the features of a human body and the elements of a pattern prototype, the authors presented a new approach to develop an individualized pattern prototype by classifying the features into grades.

Describes a PC‐based CAD system for producing made‐to‐measure garment patterns which has been developed and implemented in the commercial environment of a bridalwear manufacturer. The software simulates the hand drafting methods of the company while automating pattern production with the following benefits: first, very rapid production of made‐to measure patterns; second, production of patterns which require minimal alteration at first fitting; third, a user friendly interface with very short training period; fourth, the de‐skilling of the pattern cutting procedure so that problems of staff turnover and training are minimal; and fifth, the elimination of human error in pattern cutting. Initial software development concentrated on bodice patterns. Further enhancements included sleeves and skirts and the mixing and matching of these three components of a dress. Cutting layouts were produced using automatic layout algorithms so that the whole procedure from order and measurements entry through pattern drafting and lay‐planning to the final full scale plotting could be carried out automatically. Furthermore, a queuing system allowed several orders previously entered on the computer to be processed in succession without any intervention by an operator. All the company’s styles are now held by the computer, which is in constant use, to the exclusion of the previously used skilled and lengthy hand drafting methods.

Considering two-dimensional features in the body shape classification system cannot fully reflect the three-dimensional (3D) morphological characteristics of human body. The purpose of this paper is to propose a 3D feature based method to characterize and classify the upper body shape of women, and then obtained the corresponding garment block and improved the fitness of clothing.

In this study, the [TC]² 3D scanner was used to obtain human data, and 15 layers of cross-sections of young females’ upper body were extracted. In total, 240 space vectors were obtained with the center of the bust cross-section as the original point. By using the principal component analysis and K-means clustering analysis, the body shape classification based on the space vectors length was realized. The garment block corresponding to three body types was obtained using the 3D scanning data and the cross-section convex hull, and compared with existing garment block and evaluated fitness of the blocks.

In total, 11 main components used to characterize the 3D morphological features of young women were obtained, which could explain 95.28 percent features of young women’s upper body. By cluster analysis, the body shape of women was divided into three categories. The block of three body types was obtained by the construction of the convex hull model.

This paper investigates a classification method of the body shape based on space vector length, which can effectively reflect the difference of surface shape of human body and further improve the matching degree of human body and clothing.