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The purpose of this study is to identify the most influential factors affecting the printing properties and print quality of digitally printed silk fabrics in terms of colour strength and fixation percentage.

In this study, five factors (concentration of thickener, concentration of urea, concentration of alkali, pH of pretreatment liquor and steaming duration) were investigated using a blocked 2⁵⁻¹ fractional factorial experiment. The type of thickeners [polyacrylic acid and polyacrylamide (PAM)] were considered as a block.

Linear models were obtained and statistically tested using both analysis of variance and coefficient of determination (R²), and they were found to be accurate at 90 per cent confidence level. It was revealed that concentration of alkali, concentrations of urea and pH of the pretreatment liquor had an increasing effect on colour strength, whereas concentration of thickener and steaming duration showed decreasing effect on colour strength of digitally printed silk fabrics. Furthermore, concentration of alkali, concentrations of urea had increasing effect on dye fixation percentage, whereas steaming duration showed decreasing effect on dye fixation percentage of digitally printed silk fabrics. In addition, PAM thickener based pretreatment recipe exhibited better printing properties for the digitally printing of silk fabrics.

The main influences and significant two-factor interactions were discussed in detail to gain a better understanding of the printing properties of digitally printed silk fabrics. The findings of this study are useful for further optimisation of pre- and post-treatment processes for digital printing of silk fabrics.

The purpose of this study was to optimise the dyeing conditions to achieve right-first-time dyeing in hard water. Owing to the persistent water scarcity for more than two decades now, the textile industry in Pakistan is forced to rely on high-mineral-content ground water for use in textile wet processing. Furthermore, the limited amount of municipal water that is at the disposal of the textile industry is also high in mineral content. Thus, on the large scale, water hardness has become an acute problem for the textile processor. In particular, in the dyeing process, water hardness is known to have crucial effects. However, to-date, no systematic study has been conducted on this aspect of textile dyeing.

In this study, 3² full factorial design was used to optimise the dyeing conditions to achieve right-first-time dyeing in hard water. Thus, cotton fabric was dyed with Red Reactive dye (of dyebath concentration at 5, 10 and 15 g/L) in prepared hard water (of hardness at 10, 40 and 70°dH), respectively. Analysis of variance, coefficient of determination (R²) and p-values for the models were used to evaluate the adequacy of the predictive models. The surface plots of the effects were studied to further examine the interactions of two independent variables. Derringer’s desirability function was used to determine the optimum levels of each variable.

Three levels for both independent variables generate second-order polynomial models to predict the colour strength, lightness, red/green, yellow/blue and total colour difference values of dyed cotton. The obtained predictive models point out the considerable influence of both water hardness and dye concentration on right-first-time dyeing.

Such a finding enabled the dye-mill to produce the correct shade at water hardness of 10°dH and 15 g/L dye concentration, without the need for corrective reprocessing.