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In recent years, the textile industry has been required to develop new methods and technologies through introduction of some new materials in various processes rather than employing the same conventional chemicals. The aim of this research was to investigate the changes induced on the cotton fibre by the nanoclay treatment using a pre‐treatment method.

The fibres were dyed with basic and direct dyes after the nanoclay pre‐treatment. Technical measurements were studied including Fourier‐transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), UV‐visible spectrophotometer, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), thermal degradation analysis (TGA), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), moisture regain measurement (MRM), tensile strength test (TST), reflectance spectroscopy (RS) and fastnesses evaluation.

The intensity of the major peaks in FTIR spectra of the nanoclay treated sample is in favour of the chemical changes of the cellulose functional groups. Basic dyes showed a higher dyeability on the clay pre‐treated samples compared to raw materials. The results of the colour measurements showed that the more concentration of the clay mineral was used, the darker the colour of the dyed sample was. Some interesting results were obtained in the research.

The nanoclay and a dispersing agent used in the present context were used as received. Besides, the type of the dispersing agent is important for preparation of a colloidal dispersion of nanoclay.

The method developed in this research provides a simple and practical solution for improving the dyeability of cotton with direct and basic dyes.

The method for enhancing the dyeability of cotton is novel and can be used in cotton processing with new properties.