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Article
Publication date: 17 September 2024

Sirisha Deepthi Sornapudi, Meenu Srivastava, Srinivas Manchikatla, Samuel Thavaraj H. and Senthil Kumar B.

Natural extracts produced with Annona squamosa and Moringa oleifera leaves through the methanol-based solvent were coated on 100% cotton and 80%:20% polyester/cotton blends to…

Abstract

Purpose

Natural extracts produced with Annona squamosa and Moringa oleifera leaves through the methanol-based solvent were coated on 100% cotton and 80%:20% polyester/cotton blends to improve the functional properties such as antimicrobial activity, wicking, stiffness and crease recovery of the fabric using an eco-friendly 1,2,3,4-butane tetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) crosslinking agent.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, 100% cotton and 80:20% Polyester/Cotton fabrics with surface densities of 113.5 g/m2 and 101 g/m2 were treated BTCA. Eight different samples were produced by padding through the natural extracts. The FTIR investigation was performed on all the fabric samples. These coated fabrics were studied for their antimicrobial activity, wicking, stiffness and crease recovery properties.

Findings

It was found that the BTCA cross-linked fabrics showed higher antimicrobial activity against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. Similarly, the percentage crease recovery angle was higher for the Annona squamosa coated sample than for Moringa Oleifera leaf extract in both cotton and polyester cotton blend samples. Furthermore, no significant variation in stiffness values was discovered between the control samples of cotton and polyester cotton blend and its treatment one. It was interesting to note that treating the fabrics with cross-linker showed improved vertical wicking properties, which were closer to control fabric values. The study confirms that crosslinking the fabrics with BTCA has improved the functional properties of the fabrics. The zone of inhibition values of BTCA cross-linked moringa methanolic leaves extract coated cotton and polyester cotton blend were 6 to 6.5 cm, which was more than 50% higher than non-BTCA cross-linked fabric, and BTCA cross-linker has improved the vertical wicking properties.

Research limitations/implications

The outcome of this study will help to gain a better understanding of BTCA cross-linkers for improving the functional coating on textile substrates.

Originality/value

This study was conducted to improve the natural extract coating on textile material with eco-friendly aspects, enhancing the commercial utility of these finished fabrics

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 July 2024

Hyo Jung (Julie) Chang, Mohammad Abu Nasir Rakib, Md Kamrul Hasan Foysal and Jo Woon Chong

The comfort of apparel is not only a feeling of perception but also a tangible measure. The fit and fabric of clothing can exert a perception of comfort for the wearer, whereas…

Abstract

Purpose

The comfort of apparel is not only a feeling of perception but also a tangible measure. The fit and fabric of clothing can exert a perception of comfort for the wearer, whereas actual comfort largely depends on physiological and emotional soothing. However, there is still no solid work on connecting the bridge between physiological and emotional feelings to the comfort of clothing. In this study, we have conceptualized, formulated and proven the relation between physiological and emotional parameters with clothing fit and fabric to find the true comfort of the wearer.

Design/methodology/approach

A mixed-method research design using physiological and emotional parameters for different fabric and fit combinations were used for this study. The physiological comfort parameters (i.e. heart rate and respiration rate) are extracted from the subjects using gold-standard clinical devices for various fit and fabric combinations. For the emotional response, a survey was conducted for the same subjects wearing all the fit and fabric combinations. Statistical analysis and modeling were performed to obtain the results.

Findings

Physiological indicators such as heart rate are closely linked with user comfort. Due to the limitations in environmental control, the physiological changes obtained did not significantly vary for different fabric and fit combinations of the clothing. However, a significant change in emotional response indicated a definite relationship between different fabric and fit types. Based on the participants’ responses, weather conditions, size of the clothing item, types of fabrics and style also influence the participants’ choice of clothing.

Originality/value

The research was conducted to discover the relation between true comfort (physiological and emotional parameters) and clothing (fit and fabric), which is unique to the field. This study closes the gap and builds up the relationship, which can help introduce clothing comfort to users in the future. The findings of this study help us understand how fabric types (natural or synthetic) and clothing fit types (loose or fitted) can affect physiological and emotional responses, which can provide the consumer with satisfactory clothing with the suitable properties needed.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 19 September 2024

Chen Liu and Huafeng Feng

To investigate whether the actual effects of eight drape characteristics of virtual fabrics can be manifested in the Style 3D software.

Abstract

Purpose

To investigate whether the actual effects of eight drape characteristics of virtual fabrics can be manifested in the Style 3D software.

Design/methodology/approach

Image analysis was conducted using MATLAB software to obtain the drape characteristics of virtual fabrics. Pair the drape characteristics of the real and virtual fabrics for difference. The S-W method was used to conduct a normality test to obtain the correlation of paired samples. A paired sample t-test was performed to obtain the significance values.

Findings

The simulation restoration performance of the drape coefficient, number of undulations, maximum undulation angle, minimum undulation angle and undulation angle uniformity was good. However, there are differences in the simulation performance of the other three indicators: maximum undulation amplitude, minimum undulation amplitude and undulation amplitude uniformity compared to the drape characteristics of real fabrics.

Originality/value

Provides reference value for the improvement of Style3D software in virtual fabric simulation and finds the main influential parameters and their impact levels that contribute to the realistic representation of virtual fabrics in software. It provides a theoretical basis for course teaching in digital fashion.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 June 2024

Meghana Kammeta and N.K. Palaniswamy

In everyday life, people generally wear two layers of clothes (a knitted vest and a knitted t-shirt) during the summer. It is essential to understand which types of innerwear and…

Abstract

Purpose

In everyday life, people generally wear two layers of clothes (a knitted vest and a knitted t-shirt) during the summer. It is essential to understand which types of innerwear and outerwear maximize comfort. The primary objective of this research is to investigate the influence of layering outerwear on innerwear, as well as the air gap between two layers, on thermal comfort properties.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, a total of 12 combinations were created from four vest fabrics and three T-shirt fabrics. The thermal properties (thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity, thermal diffusion and peak heat flow) were evaluated for the individual inner and outer layers. Each inner layer was layered with an outer layer to observe the effect of layering on the thermal properties. An air gap of 2 mm was introduced between the inner and outer layers to study the effect of air gap on thermal properties.

Findings

Tencel fibre exhibits higher thermal conductivity and absorptivity than cotton and polyester. Upon layering an outer layer on an inner layer, the thermal conductivity and thermal absorptivity increase to a slight extent, thermal resistance and diffusion increase drastically and the peak heat flow reduces. With an air gap between the two layers, the thermal conductivity did not improve, the difference in thermal resistance among all the combinations reduced, the thermal absorptivity of the combination textiles was lower than that of the innerwear alone, the thermal diffusion increased and the peak heat flow diminished for all the combinations.

Practical implications

In practice, this comprehensive thermal comfort analysis provides specific combinations of inner and outer articles of clothing that are most appropriate for enhancing comfort during the summer season.

Originality/value

Though there are many studies on the effect of multilayer fabrics on thermal properties, no extensive research analyses the influence of innerwear and outerwear combinations on thermal comfort properties.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 September 2024

Liberato Venant Haule

A review of sustainability challenges of flame retardants (FRs) for textiles has been conducted. Specifically, the purpose of this paper is to identify and recommend solutions to…

Abstract

Purpose

A review of sustainability challenges of flame retardants (FRs) for textiles has been conducted. Specifically, the purpose of this paper is to identify and recommend solutions to sustainability challenges emanating from the raw material, processing technology and performance of the FRs used for textiles.

Design/methodology/approach

The approach used in preparing this paper was based on the review of various scholarly databases about the subject matter. The review approach is designed to inform the readers about the sustainability challenges of FRs for textiles. The science of burning and FRs for synthetic and cellulosic fibres were reviewed. Both synthetic and natural biodegradable FRs for textiles has been identified. The obtained literature was then synthesised to get information about sustainable challenges of non-halogenated FRs both synthetic and natural biodegradable. Finally, possible approaches for mitigating the identified challenges have been recommended.

Findings

The sustainability challenges of the FRs in terms of raw material, processing, affordability and performance have been identified. Synthetic FRs suffer from sustainability challenges in terms of raw materials, processing and non-renewability. Despite the environmental friendliness and sustainability in terms of being renewability, processability and biodegradability, natural biodegradable FRs have poor performance compared to synthetic ones. Moreover, natural biodegradable FRs depend on geographical condition and lack economic variability data. Potentially, the challenges of FRs can be mitigated through eco-friendly synthesis, chemical modification and sustainable methods of applications. Because of its renewability and environmental friendliness, biodegradable FRs have a potential to becoming sustainable if researched more.

Originality/value

In this review, a collection of literature about sustainability challenges of FRs and the approaches to overcome the challenges has been provided. The collected information was analysed and synthesised to bring understanding of the science of burning, types and application of FRs for textiles and biodegradable FRs. Sustainability challenges have been identified, and mitigation approaches are provided.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 12 September 2024

Wanxin Li, Fangfang An, Dawu Shu, Zengshuai Lian, Bo Han and Shaolei Cao

This study aims to elucidate the dyeing kinetics and thermodynamic relationships of CI Reactive Red 24 (RR24) on cotton fabrics, achieve the recycling of inorganic salts and water…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to elucidate the dyeing kinetics and thermodynamic relationships of CI Reactive Red 24 (RR24) on cotton fabrics, achieve the recycling of inorganic salts and water resources and obtain comprehensive data on color parameters, fastness and other characteristics of fabrics dyed with the recycled dyeing residual wastewater.

Design/methodology/approach

The dyeing wastewater obtained through advanced oxidation technology was used as a medium for dyeing cotton fabrics with RR24. The absorbance value of the dyeing residue served as an evaluation index, and the relevant kinetic and thermodynamic parameters were calculated based on this absorbance. The color parameters and fastness of the fabric samples were measured to compare the performance of different dyeing media.

Findings

Dyeing cotton with RR24 in both media follows pseudo-second-order kinetics. When dyeing with wastewater media, the dye adsorption in the first 45 min increased by 0.082–1.29 g/kg compared with conventional dyeing. Furthermore, the half-dyeing time was shortened by 4.19–11.99 min and the equilibrium adsorption amount was reduced by 0.277–0.302 g/kg. The adsorption of RR24 on cotton fabrics conformed to the Freundlich model. Fabrics dyed using recycled wastewater exhibit a deeper color, with reduced red light and enhanced blue light, resulting in an overall deeper apparent color.

Originality/value

These dyeing kinetics and thermodynamic properties are beneficial for comprehending and interpreting the dyeing performance and behavior of reactive dyes in dyeing wastewater. They lay a theoretical foundation for the treatment and recycling of dyeing wastewater.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 3 June 2024

Duygu Yavuzkasap Ayakta, Şule Altun Kurtoğlu and Demet Yilmaz

Wool fiber is accepted as one of the natural and renewable sources and has been used in the apparel and textile industry since ancient times. However, wool fiber has the highest…

Abstract

Purpose

Wool fiber is accepted as one of the natural and renewable sources and has been used in the apparel and textile industry since ancient times. However, wool fiber has the highest global warming potential value among conventional fibres due to its high land use and high methane gas generation. This study aimed to recycle the wool fabric wastes and also to create a mini eco-collection by using the produced yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

This manuscript aimed to evaluate the fabric wastes of a woolen fabric producer company. Fabric wastes were opened with two different opening systems and fiber properties were determined. First, conventional ring yarns were produced in the company’s own spinning mill by mixing the opened fibres with the long fiber wastes of the company. In addition, opening wastes were mixed with different fibres (polyester, long wool waste, and Tencel fibres) between 25% and 70% in the short-staple yarn spinning mill and used in the production of conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns. Most of the yarns contained waste fibres at 50%. Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained and fabric properties were examined. Also, a fabric collection was created. A life cycle assessment (LCA) was made for one of the selected yarns.

Findings

At the end of the study, it was determined that it was possible to produce yarn and fabric samples from fiber blends containing high waste fiber ratios beyond 50%. All the woven fabric samples produced from conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns gave higher breaking, tearing and stitch slip strength values in the weft and warp direction than limit quality values of the company. In addition, abrasion resistance and WIRA steam stability properties of the fabric samples were also sufficient. Environmental analysis of the recycling of the wastes showed a possible decrease of about 9940034.3 kg CO2e per year in the global warming potential. In addition, fiber raw material expenses reduced yarn production cost about 50% in case of opened fabric waste usage. However, due to insufficient pilling resistance results, it was decided to evaluate the woven fabrics for the product groups such as shawls and blankets, where pilling resistance is less sought.

Originality/value

The original aspects of the article can be summarized under two headings. First, there are limited studies on the evaluation of wool wastes compared to cotton and polyester fibres and the number of samples examined was limited. However, this study was quite comprehensive in terms of opening type (rag and tearing), spinning systems (long and short spinning processes), fiber blends (waste 100% and blends with polyester, long wool waste and Tencel fibres) and yarn counts (coarser and finer). Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained using different colour combinations and weave types. All processes from fabric waste to product production were followed and evaluated. Life cycle assessment (LCA) and cost analysis was also done. The second unique aspect is that the problem of a real wool company was handled by taking the waste of the woolen company and a collection was created for the customer group of the company. Production was made under real production conditions. Therefore, this study will provide important findings to the research field about recycling, sustainability etc.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 September 2024

Faouzi Khedher and Boubaker Jaouachi

The purpose of this work is to study the relationship between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (TS), breaking strength (BS) and cloth’s dimensional…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this work is to study the relationship between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (TS), breaking strength (BS) and cloth’s dimensional stability (Sh), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Hence, we select the most interrelationships using the principal component analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the treatments of finishing garments during washing are the important parameters influencing the cloth’s dimensional and the fabric’s mechanical properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their influence on shrinkage. The polynomial regression model relating the tear strength and the shrinkage of denim fabric proves the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.

Design/methodology/approach

To investigate the matter, the type of washing, and their contributions to shrinkage, four types of fabrics manufactured into pants were used. These fabrics differ not only by their basis weights (medium and heavy weight fabrics) but, also by their compositions (within and without elastane) and their thread count (warp and weft yarn count, twist and density. To evaluate significant results, a factorial design analysis based on an experimental design was established. The choice of these treatments, as well as their design mode, led us to make a complete factorial experimental design.

Findings

According to the results, the prediction of shrinkage behavior as a function of the process washing input parameters seems significant and useful in our experimental design of interest. As a consequence, it was also concluded that after these input parameters, we can find the relationship between the shrinkage (Shwarp and Shweft) and the mechanical properties such as tear strength (TSwarp and TSweft) and breaking strength (BSwarp and BSweft). Thanks to the PCA, it is very easy to reduce the number of the influent output parameters, and knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of mechanical properties knowing the shrinkage of denim garment, during the process of washing seems successful and can undoubtedly help industrial to minimize the poor workmanship of the finishing quality.

Practical implications

This study is very interesting for finishing denim garments. The shrinkage is very important for correcting measures in sewing, considering that a high shrinkage may cause the cancellation of the fit from the client. This type of defect cannot be repaired in the major part of the cases and causes a big loss for the company, moreover the mechanical properties. For this reason, analyzing the value of shrinkage before starting the production cycle is of great importance to apply the right balance to the pattern. The model of predicting the mechanical properties behaviors as a function of the shrinkage denim garment leads manufacturers to eliminate the test of mechanical properties that remain as destructive tests. Moreover, according to the results obtained, it may be concluded that prediction is still accurate through the shrinkage test which is an inevitable test. Even though, these results can bring a huge gain for the garment wash industries.

Originality/value

This work presents the first study predicting a relationship between the mechanical properties and denim garment shrinkage, applying the PCA technique to minimize the all-output parameters that are not significant or correlated with each other. Besides, it deals with the relationship developed between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (TS), breaking strength (BS) and cloth’s dimensional stability (Sh), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Moreover, it is notable to mention that the originality of this study is to let to the garment wash industries to save in production time of orders and also in quality.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 27 August 2024

Wanwan Wang and Mengmeng Zhao

The purpose of this paper is to determine the effect of clothing fabrics, sizes and air ventilation rate on the volume and thickness of the air gap under the air ventilation…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to determine the effect of clothing fabrics, sizes and air ventilation rate on the volume and thickness of the air gap under the air ventilation garments (AVGs).

Design/methodology/approach

The geometric models of the human body and clothing were obtained by using a 3D body scanner. Then the distribution of the volume and thickness of the air gap for four clothing fabrics and three air ventilation rates (0L/S, 12L/S and 20L/S) were calculated by Geomagic software. Finally, a more suitable fabric was selected from the analysis to compare the distribution of the air gap entrapped for four clothing sizes (S, M, L and XL) and the three air ventilation rates.

Findings

The results show that the influence of air ventilation rate on the air gap volume and thickness is more obvious than that of the clothing fabrics and sizes. The higher is the air ventilation rate, the thicker is the air gap entrapped, and more evenly distributed is the air gap. It can be seen that the thickness of the air gap in the chest does not change significantly with the changes of the air ventilation rates, clothing fabrics and sizes, while the air gap in the waist is affected significantly.

Originality/value

This research provides a better understanding of the distribution of the air gap entrapped in ventilated garments, which can help in designing the optimal air gap dimensions and thus provide a basis and a reference for the design of the AVGs.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2024

Qing Li, Chulin Li, Dongdong Dong, Huimin Han, Guangwu Sun, Xiaona Chen, Hongyan Hu, Wenfeng Hu, Hong Xie and Yanmei Li

This study aims to evaluate how the structure of medical compression stockings, including three compression levels and five cross-sections from the ankle to the thigh part, will…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to evaluate how the structure of medical compression stockings, including three compression levels and five cross-sections from the ankle to the thigh part, will be changed after washing in different conditions and further investigate the effect of the washing parameters on the medical compression stockings.

Design/methodology/approach

By washing medical compression stockings in different conditions and measuring the structures (including the density, the girth, the transversal and lengthwise dimension, the weight per unit area and the thickness) of medical compression stockings from the knee to the thigh part.

Findings

It was concluded that the density, the weight per unit and the thickness increase and the girth, the transversal and lengthwise dimension, the weight per unit and the thickness decrease. The change degree of Class one and Class two is greater than Class 3. Moreover, the washing temperature is the most significant factor affecting all the structures of medical compression stockings. Meanwhile, the mechanical actions of the washing machine, like drum speed and washing time, also influence different medical compression stockings structures to different degrees.

Research limitations/implications

The washing parameter not only includes the temperature and washing cycles but also has other factors, such as the drum speed and washing time. In addition, different kinds of factors will be influenced by each other.

Originality/value

This study can provide consumers advices on the washing of medical compression stockings, and attribute to the optimization of materials and structures to maintain its properties for manufacturers.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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