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Article
Publication date: 21 October 2019

Rui Dan and Zhen Shi

The area shrinkage of the body under pressure is very important to evaluate the comfort of pressure sense, and it is an important index that appraises compression garment. The…

Abstract

Purpose

The area shrinkage of the body under pressure is very important to evaluate the comfort of pressure sense, and it is an important index that appraises compression garment. The purpose of this paper is to obtain the area shrinkage mass of the waist cross section by using the finite-element method (FEM), and the waist of women’s pantyhose could be designed with a different degree of elasticity during the course of design based on clothing pressure comfort.

Design/methodology/approach

This study aimed at the problems existing in the wearing of women’s elastic pantyhose, took the waist of pantyhose as the research object, and the contact between human body and pantyhose as elastic contact. The finite-element model of the waist cross section and elastic pantyhose fabric was acquired through CT scan and Mimics software. After simulating on the corresponding displacement distribution of the waist of sample elastic pantyhose during the process of dressing by using ANSYS, the authors divided the waist cross section into 24 equal regions according to angle (every 15 degrees as a region), and then the area shrinkage mass of each region was obtained by area calculation formula. According to the tendency of area shrinkage distribution, the waist of women’s elastic pantyhose could be designed for different regions of tension considering the pressure comfort, so as to guarantee that the wearing comfort can be maintained on the premise of ensuring the functionality of the elastic pantyhose.

Findings

In this paper, the authors obtained the area shrinkage mass of elastic pantyhose at waist cross section, and this area shrinkage distribution could be used as an objective evaluation index for pressure comfort. All these solutions are of great significance to the optimization design of pantyhose and can provide theoretical basis for the structural improvement of functional pantyhose and the prediction of clothing pressure.

Originality/value

This paper simulated the area shrinkage mass for the waist of elastic pantyhose by using FEM, and the waist of women’s elastic pantyhose could be designed for different regions of tension considering the pressure comfort according to the area shrinkage distribution tendency, so as to guarantee the wearing comfort during the wearing process.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 31 August 2020

Rui Dan and Zhen Shi

Objective appraisal of pressure comfort is the key point of optimal designing of clothing. The purpose of this paper is to study a new method to provide pressure comfort for the…

Abstract

Purpose

Objective appraisal of pressure comfort is the key point of optimal designing of clothing. The purpose of this paper is to study a new method to provide pressure comfort for the waist of elastic pantyhose through the relationship between pressure and displacement using the finite element method (FEM).

Design/methodology/approach

This paper presented a simulation model of the waist cross section consisting of three parts, namely skin, soft tissue and lumbar vertebrae, respectively, according to CT scan. The finite element the model of waist cross-section was established using Mimics software. The pressure–displacement quadratic equation can be obtained using ANSYS software and fitting curves. Meanwhile, we divide the waist cross-section into 12 equal regions according to angle, and then the area shrinkage mass of the waist cross-section can be calculated, respectively.

Findings

In this research work, we got the displacement distribution trend of elastic pantyhose at the waist cross section according to the area shrinkage mass of 12 regions, and this displacement could be used as an objective evaluation index for pressure comfort. All these solutions supply a theoretical reference for optimal design of the women's elastic pantyhose.

Originality/value

The paper analyzed the relationship between pressure and displacement for the waist of elastic pantyhose using FEM, and then got the displacement distribution trend of elastic pantyhose at the waist cross section according to the area shrinkage mass of different regions. It can supply a new method to appraise pressure comfort.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 April 2020

Xin Ying, Zheng Liu, Guang Chen and Fengyuan Zou

The comfort and fit of clothes are affected by fabric properties, dressed ease and environmental conditions, in which dressed ease is influenced by the interaction among complex…

Abstract

Purpose

The comfort and fit of clothes are affected by fabric properties, dressed ease and environmental conditions, in which dressed ease is influenced by the interaction among complex shapes of human body, style design and fabric mechanical properties.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, the dressed ease distribution at waist section, which is related to body surface convex angle, was investigated using 3D scanning. A series of surface convex angles on bust and back were formed after adjusting the mannequin. The mannequin was scanned by TC2 separately in garments with eight different ease allowances. Then the dressed ease distributions at waist under different convex angles of body surface have been acquired by calculating the distance between waist points and dressed surfaces along normal directions.

Findings

The results showed that the body surface convex angle was weakly related to the dressed ease when the garments’ bust ease allowance was below 4 cm. When the garments’ bust ease allowance was within 6–12 cm, the body convex angle had a great impact on the dressed waist ease distribution in the condition of 26º–33º bust convex angle and 13.96º–17.96º back slope angle. For slack garments with more than 16 cm ease allowance, the dressed waist ease distribution did not relate to the bust convex angle, while it strongly related to the bust convex angle between 13.96º and 17.96º. The regression model was statistically significant between the dressed ease value and the body surface convex angle.

Originality/value

According to the dressed waist ease distribution of different body surface convex angles, this paper gives an application of pattern modification in order to optimize the waist fit. The results can provide guidance for the optimization of different body shapes. At the same time, the application of gap data to 3D virtual fitting can greatly improve the authenticity of virtual simulation effect.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 August 2023

Rui Dan, Yujie Zheng, ZhiQin Liu and Zhen Shi

The inward displacement perpendicular to the body surface produced by compression garment is an important index to evaluate pressure comfort and optimal design of tight clothing…

Abstract

Purpose

The inward displacement perpendicular to the body surface produced by compression garment is an important index to evaluate pressure comfort and optimal design of tight clothing products. The purpose of this study is to explore the pressure distribution state at waist position of elastic legwear and then to solve the common problem of excessive pressure or easy slippage for waist of elastic legwear.

Design/methodology/approach

In this paper, the authors obtained the waist cross-section model of human body using CT scanning and mimics modeling and then simulated the pressure and displacement distribution after wearing sample four elastic legwear using finite element method. The dressing process of elastic legwear was divided into six periods (instantaneous, 1, 2, 4, 8 and 12 h) in this study, and the finite element software ANSYS was used to simulate the displacement and deformation of the waist cross section. The authors finally obtained the functional relationship between pressure/displacement ratio and angle using curve fitting.

Findings

In this paper, the authors obtained the functional relationship between pressure/displacement ratio and angle using curve fitting. Comparison found that the “pressure/displacement–angle” function curve showed an almost consistent trend at any time. That was to say, when the human body was in the state of clothing pressure, the corresponding displacement value of the human body can be calculated by the curve equation under the premise of known pressure value.

Originality/value

This study solves the difficult problem which hard to measure displacement values by conventional methods due to the small deformation of the human body after dressing the compression garment. Conclusions also provide a theoretical reference for evaluating pressure comfort and optimizing clothing structure for the elastic legwear, and this method is also applicable to other types of compression garment.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 July 2023

Yijie Zhang, Ling Ma, Ziyi Guo, Tao Li and Fengyuan Zou

Considering only two-dimensional (2D) ease allowance cannot fully reflect the three-dimensional (3D) relationship between the position of clothing and the human body. The purpose…

Abstract

Purpose

Considering only two-dimensional (2D) ease allowance cannot fully reflect the three-dimensional (3D) relationship between the position of clothing and the human body. The purpose of this paper is to propose a method with a 3D space vector and corresponding distance ease to characterize fitting garments and then used to construct personalized clothing for similar shape body.

Design/methodology/approach

Firstly, a 3D scanner was used to obtain mannequin and fitted garment data, and 17 layers of cross-sections of the upper body were extracted. Then, 37 space vectors and corresponding space angles on each cross-section were obtained with the original point. Secondly, the detailed distance ease between the mannequin and garment was constructed due to the difference between garment vectors and body vectors. Thirdly, the distance ease mathematical models were achieved and used to calculate distance ease on a similar shape body. Additionally, the fit garment is constructed, and the garment pattern is altered by the geometric pattern alteration method.

Findings

The results show that 3D space vectors can explain the relationship between body skin and garment surface of the upper body properly. The distance ease is modeled by mathematic expressions and successfully used to make a new garment to fit a similar shape body.

Originality/value

The proposed method of constructing garments based on distance ease and 3D space vectors can create a fitted garment for a similar shape body effectively and accurately. It is useful for the personalized garment design and suitable for the manufacturing process.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 December 2018

Jie Sun, Qianyun Cai, Tao Li, Lei Du and Fengyuan Zou

Considering two-dimensional features in the body shape classification system cannot fully reflect the three-dimensional (3D) morphological characteristics of human body. The…

Abstract

Purpose

Considering two-dimensional features in the body shape classification system cannot fully reflect the three-dimensional (3D) morphological characteristics of human body. The purpose of this paper is to propose a 3D feature based method to characterize and classify the upper body shape of women, and then obtained the corresponding garment block and improved the fitness of clothing.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, the [TC]2 3D scanner was used to obtain human data, and 15 layers of cross-sections of young females’ upper body were extracted. In total, 240 space vectors were obtained with the center of the bust cross-section as the original point. By using the principal component analysis and K-means clustering analysis, the body shape classification based on the space vectors length was realized. The garment block corresponding to three body types was obtained using the 3D scanning data and the cross-section convex hull, and compared with existing garment block and evaluated fitness of the blocks.

Findings

In total, 11 main components used to characterize the 3D morphological features of young women were obtained, which could explain 95.28 percent features of young women’s upper body. By cluster analysis, the body shape of women was divided into three categories. The block of three body types was obtained by the construction of the convex hull model.

Originality/value

This paper investigates a classification method of the body shape based on space vector length, which can effectively reflect the difference of surface shape of human body and further improve the matching degree of human body and clothing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 3 January 2020

Aleksei Moskvin, Mariia Moskvina and Victor Kuzmichev

Digital technologies are widely used for digitization of museum and archival heritage and creation of digital, multimedia and online exhibitions, especially in terms of costume…

Abstract

Purpose

Digital technologies are widely used for digitization of museum and archival heritage and creation of digital, multimedia and online exhibitions, especially in terms of costume history. Digital exhibitions require historical dress forms which were used in the past for costume presentation. The purpose of this paper is to develop a new method for parametric modeling of the nineteenth century dress forms in accordance with fashionable body shape.

Design/methodology/approach

Due to limited number of body measurements in historical sizing tables, it is impossible to redesign the morphology of old fashionable body with high accuracy by means of contemporary CAD. The developed method is based on two sources of information: first, historical sizing tables with body measurements; second, historical corsets. By combining both resources and applying virtual try-on technology, the full anthropometric database about the nineteenth century fashionable body shape has been organized and the parametric model of historical dress form has been generated.

Findings

The digital replica of deformable parametric dress form was created automatically in accordance with the historical sizing systems and the corsets construction. The process of reproduction of a historical dress form has been done with high accuracy due to substantial advantages of contemporary software.

Originality/value

This study shows new way of anthropometric data generating from the construction of close-fitting and compression undergarments. The developed method and the new database can be applied for each type of dress forms which were used in the second part of the nineteenth century to generate its digital replica in virtual reality. The new approach is joining the digital technologies and the professional knowledge as an important part of cultural heritage for studying, recreating and presenting historical costume.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 17 January 2023

Xing Ying

The purpose of this paper investigates dynamic ease distributions of clothes at bust and waist lines with different body surface angle by using a Qualisys three-dimensional motion…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper investigates dynamic ease distributions of clothes at bust and waist lines with different body surface angle by using a Qualisys three-dimensional motion capture system (3DMCS).

Design/methodology/approach

The current method first obtain the specific markers of participants and their clothes along the bust and waist lines through 3DMCS, then using the least square method and four piecewise polynomial fitting participants and their clothes' bust and waist curves. The coordinates of the markers were tracked by the 3DMCS, while the participants under different body surface angle walked on a treadmill calculated the distances of markers coordinates to the participants' bust and waist curves. Finally, the data of samples were analyzed. It was found that the dynamic ease distributions showed different patterns at different body surface angle.

Findings

The results revealed the bust convex angle is 26.53 degrees (Specification:X3) and back slope angle is 13.96 degrees (Specification: Y1), the fluctuation of participant ease distributions on bust section was most obvious, and the maximum fluctuation value was ±20 mm and ±25 mm. The ease distributions of participant waist section fluctuated most obviously when the bust convex angle is 28.10 degrees (Specification: X5) and the back slope angle is 13.96 degrees (Specification: Y1), and the maximum fluctuation was ±30 mm and ±20 mm. The bust convex angle has the greatest influence on 1# garment, and the back slope angle has the greatest influence on 2# garment.

Originality/value

Currently, there is little information in the literature about dynamic ease distributions of garment on a different body types. This paper takes different body surface angles as the research objects to analyze the ease distributions of different clothes, the conclusion can provide reference data for 3D garment modeling and improve the authenticity of virtual garment fitting.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 October 2009

Jiyun Li and Jiaxun Chen

The fast and easy generation of personalized mannequin is the premise for the accurate 3D measurement for the customers in an electronic made to measure (e_MTM) system. The…

Abstract

Purpose

The fast and easy generation of personalized mannequin is the premise for the accurate 3D measurement for the customers in an electronic made to measure (e_MTM) system. The purpose of this paper is to attempt to propose a new virtual human mannequin modeling technique to meet this requirement.

Design/methodology/approach

The customized human mannequin is constructed by assemblage of the body parts. The body parts including bust, waist and hip segments are achieved by modification of the standard body section templates, while the silhouette obtained from the front and side photos are used to confine the distortion of the parts.

Findings

The main findings are the section template base and assemblage method for mannequin modeling.

Originality/value

The proposed method can free the burden of high cost and inconvenience of 3D scanner in the measurement process of e_MTM system, and in the mean time without loss of measurement accuracy.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 21 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 6 August 2024

Tao Li, Jing Ma, Jinying Wu, Xiyan Lin and Fengyuan Zou

The human body has the same basic size data but has different surface morphology, resulting in the unfitness even under the same size specification. The purpose of this study was…

Abstract

Purpose

The human body has the same basic size data but has different surface morphology, resulting in the unfitness even under the same size specification. The purpose of this study was to solve the local fitness problems by representing and quantifying the human surface morphological difference.

Design/methodology/approach

Firstly, the 3D point cloud for 323 female students was scanned, and the cross-section layers of the “waist-to-thigh” zone were determined. Secondly, the space vector based on the space Euclidean distance was extracted to represent and quantify the surface morphological difference. And the Principal Component Analysis and K-means were adopted to subdivide the target zone. Thirdly, the pattern based on the subdivision results and surface flattening was generated. Additionally, the fitness was evaluated by the subjective and objective assessments, separately.

Findings

The space vector could represent and quantify the shape morphology of the “waist-to-thigh” zone. It had successfully achieved the human body subdivision and corresponding pattern generation for the “waist-to-thigh” zone. And the pattern based on the shape subdivision and surface flattening of the space vector could effectively improve the wearing fitness. Particularly in the waist and crotch area of trousers, the obvious wrinkles had been solved because the space vector is more in line with the shape morphology characteristics.

Originality/value

The proposed method could represent and quantify the difference in human surface morphology in a 3D manner. It solved the unfitness problem caused by the same body size but different shape surface morphology. And it will contribute to the fitness improvement of the trousers.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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