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Parametric modeling of historical mannequins

Aleksei Moskvin (Department of Clothes Design and Technology, Saint Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design, Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation)
Mariia Moskvina (Department of Clothes Design and Technology, Saint Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design, Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation)
Victor Kuzmichev (Department of Clothes Design, Ivanovo State Polytechnic University, Ivanovo, Russian Federation)

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

ISSN: 0955-6222

Article publication date: 3 January 2020

Issue publication date: 18 May 2020

329

Abstract

Purpose

Digital technologies are widely used for digitization of museum and archival heritage and creation of digital, multimedia and online exhibitions, especially in terms of costume history. Digital exhibitions require historical dress forms which were used in the past for costume presentation. The purpose of this paper is to develop a new method for parametric modeling of the nineteenth century dress forms in accordance with fashionable body shape.

Design/methodology/approach

Due to limited number of body measurements in historical sizing tables, it is impossible to redesign the morphology of old fashionable body with high accuracy by means of contemporary CAD. The developed method is based on two sources of information: first, historical sizing tables with body measurements; second, historical corsets. By combining both resources and applying virtual try-on technology, the full anthropometric database about the nineteenth century fashionable body shape has been organized and the parametric model of historical dress form has been generated.

Findings

The digital replica of deformable parametric dress form was created automatically in accordance with the historical sizing systems and the corsets construction. The process of reproduction of a historical dress form has been done with high accuracy due to substantial advantages of contemporary software.

Originality/value

This study shows new way of anthropometric data generating from the construction of close-fitting and compression undergarments. The developed method and the new database can be applied for each type of dress forms which were used in the second part of the nineteenth century to generate its digital replica in virtual reality. The new approach is joining the digital technologies and the professional knowledge as an important part of cultural heritage for studying, recreating and presenting historical costume.

Keywords

Acknowledgements

This work was supported by the Russian Ministry of Science and Education under Project No. 2.2425.2017/4.6 “Development of software for virtual design of system ‘body – clothes” in static and dynamic and for virtual try-on Fashion Net.”

This research was supported by the Ministry of Science and Higher Education of the Russian Federation (project No. RFMEFI61619X0113 “Simulation (modeling) of historical costume digital replica by using reverse engineering technology“) and French Partenariat Hubert Curien Kolmogorov 2019.

Citation

Moskvin, A., Moskvina, M. and Kuzmichev, V. (2020), "Parametric modeling of historical mannequins", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 32 No. 3, pp. 366-389. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-06-2019-0093

Publisher

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Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2020, Emerald Publishing Limited

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