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Article
Publication date: 22 January 2024

Yilun Wang, Xiaofen Ji, Chen Pang and Lina Zhai

Esthetic trend changes with the development of society and cultural differences. A minimizer bra designed to make breasts appear smaller is now popular with large-breasted women…

Abstract

Purpose

Esthetic trend changes with the development of society and cultural differences. A minimizer bra designed to make breasts appear smaller is now popular with large-breasted women in China. To conform to the requirements of modern aesthetics in China, this paper aims to investigate vital features of breast appearance that influence people’s subjective evaluation of breast size and analyze how bra design parameters affect breast shape and make breasts appear smaller.

Design/methodology/approach

This study used 3D scanning technology and reverse engineering software to obtain objective breast measurements in detail. A subjective evaluation experiment was conducted to evaluate the overall performance of seven minimizer bras compared to a basic comparison bra. Around 20 design parameters of 8 sample bras were identified to make a further study about the correlation between bra design features and breast shaping effect. To gain a deeper understanding of how bras interact with breast tissue, this study presented heat maps of the breast surface to visualize the deformation of breast shape.

Findings

Nine breasts' characteristics, such as the distance between bust points, breast depth, outer breast curvature and slope, etc. have been determined to be highly correlated with the visual reduction effect of breasts. In addition, for the bras in this experiment, the high-performance bra for women with large breasts tends to have a wider side panel, a wider under band, higher gore and a stronger transverse rigidity of the bra cup. According to the observation of heat maps of the breast surface, soft full-figure bras provide a wider range of compression to the breasts and effectively flatten the breasts.

Originality/value

This paper first aimed at the need to shape the ideal breast appearance for large-breasted women and make a further study of several hot-selling minimizer bras in China. The suggestions given in this paper help lingerie manufacturers better understand how design features of bras can affect their shaping effect and improve the wearing effect of minimizer bras for large-breasted women.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 March 2024

Arzu Şen Kılıç, Can Ünal and Ziynet Ondogan

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement…

Abstract

Purpose

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers’ patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method.

Findings

According to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production.

Originality/value

In the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 11 April 2024

Youngsook Kim and Fatma Baytar

The research evaluated the feasibility of 3D dynamic fit utilizing female compression tops by comparatively analyzing the virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Abstract

Purpose

The research evaluated the feasibility of 3D dynamic fit utilizing female compression tops by comparatively analyzing the virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Design/methodology/approach

Six female participants were 3D body-scanned and photographed in compression tops in four types of athletic movements (pull-up, kettlebell swing, circle-crunch and sit-up). Fit measurements, waist cross-sectional areas, waist width, waist depth, numerical simulation of clothing pressure (kPa) and objective pressure measurements (kPa) were collected from 3D virtual animation, 3D fit scan data and actual photos with the four types of athletic motions. The data were comparatively investigated between virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Findings

The 3D-animated body was not reflected with human body deformation because only bone structure was changed while maintaining the constant forms of muscle and body surface in athletic movements. Due to this consistency of virtual dynamic fit, there were significant differences with the actual dynamic fit at the top length, shoulder width and waist cross-sectional areas. Also, the virtual dynamic pressure indicated significantly higher levels than the objective dynamic pressure while presenting no significant correlations at the front neckline, breast, lateral waist, upper back, back armhole and back waist.

Originality/value

This study is the first to verify multiple aspects of virtual dynamic fit using 3D digital technology. This study provided useful information about which aspects of the current virtual animation need to be improved to apply in the dynamic fit evaluation.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 March 2022

Adriana Gorea, Amy Dorie and Martha L. Hall

This study aims to investigate if engineered compression variations using moisture-responsive knitted fabric design can improve breast support in seamless knitted sports bras.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to investigate if engineered compression variations using moisture-responsive knitted fabric design can improve breast support in seamless knitted sports bras.

Design/methodology/approach

An experimental approach was used to integrate a novel moisture-responsive fabric panel into a seamless knitted bra, and the resulting compression variability in dry versus wet conditions were compared with those of a control bra. Air permeability and elongation testing of between breasts fabric panels was conducted in dry and wet conditions, followed by three-dimensional body scanning of eight human participants wearing the two bras in similar conditions. Questionnaires were used to evaluate perceived comfort and breast support of both bras in both conditions.

Findings

Air permeability test results showed that the novel panel had the highest variance between dry and wet conditions, confirming its moisture-responsive design, and increased its elongation coefficient in both wale and course directions in wet condition. There were significant main effects of bra type and body location on breast compression measurements. Breast circumferences in the novel bra were significantly larger than in the control bra condition. The significant two-way interaction between bra type and moisture condition showed that the control bra lost compressive power in wet condition, whereas the novel bra became more compressive when wet. Changes in compression were confirmed by participants’ perception of tighter straps and drier breast comfort.

Originality/value

These findings add to the limited scientific knowledge of moisture adaptive bra design using engineered knitted fabrics via advanced manufacturing technologies, with possible applications beyond sports bras, such as bras for breast surgery recovering patients.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 22 April 2024

Ruoxi Zhang and Chenhan Ren

This study aims to construct a sentiment series generation method for danmu comments based on deep learning, and explore the features of sentiment series after clustering.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to construct a sentiment series generation method for danmu comments based on deep learning, and explore the features of sentiment series after clustering.

Design/methodology/approach

This study consisted of two main parts: danmu comment sentiment series generation and clustering. In the first part, the authors proposed a sentiment classification model based on BERT fine-tuning to quantify danmu comment sentiment polarity. To smooth the sentiment series, they used methods, such as comprehensive weights. In the second part, the shaped-based distance (SBD)-K-shape method was used to cluster the actual collected data.

Findings

The filtered sentiment series or curves of the microfilms on the Bilibili website could be divided into four major categories. There is an apparently stable time interval for the first three types of sentiment curves, while the fourth type of sentiment curve shows a clear trend of fluctuation in general. In addition, it was found that “disputed points” or “highlights” are likely to appear at the beginning and the climax of films, resulting in significant changes in the sentiment curves. The clustering results show a significant difference in user participation, with the second type prevailing over others.

Originality/value

Their sentiment classification model based on BERT fine-tuning outperformed the traditional sentiment lexicon method, which provides a reference for using deep learning as well as transfer learning for danmu comment sentiment analysis. The BERT fine-tuning–SBD-K-shape algorithm can weaken the effect of non-regular noise and temporal phase shift of danmu text.

Details

The Electronic Library , vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0264-0473

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 March 2024

Liang Hu, Chengwei Liu, Rui Su and Weiting Liu

In a coaxial ultrasonic flow sensor (UFS), wall thickness is a vital parameter of the measurement tube, especially those with small inner diameters. The paper aims to investigate…

Abstract

Purpose

In a coaxial ultrasonic flow sensor (UFS), wall thickness is a vital parameter of the measurement tube, especially those with small inner diameters. The paper aims to investigate the influence of wall thickness on the transient signal characteristics in an UFS.

Design/methodology/approach

First, the problem was researched experimentally using a series of measurement tubes with different wall thicknesses. Second, a finite element method–based model in the time domain was established to validate the experimental results and further discussion. Finally, the plane wave assumption and oblique incident theory were used to analyze the wave propagation in the tube, and an idea of wave packet superposition was proposed to reveal the mechanism of the influence of wall thickness.

Findings

Both experimental and simulated results showed that the signal amplitude decreased periodically as the wall thickness increased, and the corresponding waveform varied dramatically. Based on the analysis of wave propagation in the measurement tube, a formula concerning the phase difference between wave packets was derived to characterize the signal variation.

Originality/value

This paper provides a new and explicit explanation of the influence of wall thickness on the transient signal in a co-axial UFS. Both experimental and simulated results were presented, and the mechanism was clearly described.

Details

Sensor Review, vol. 44 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0260-2288

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 September 2023

Romane Guillot, Rameshwar Dubey and Sushma Kumari

Globalisation, trade barriers, unprecedented health crises and geo-political crises have forced organisations to revisit their performance measurement systems (PMS) to better…

Abstract

Purpose

Globalisation, trade barriers, unprecedented health crises and geo-political crises have forced organisations to revisit their performance measurement systems (PMS) to better prepare their supply chain against the risk and improve performance in times of crisis. This study aims to review the supply chain operation reference (SCOR)-based PMS and propose a dynamic SCOR-based PMS for supply chain risk management (SCRM).

Design/methodology/approach

Due to the need for multi-stakeholder perspectives on SCOR-based PMS for the SCRM, the authors aimed to develop a theory rather than to elaborate upon or test the theory. Hence, the authors adopted an inductive theory-building approach to build research propositions. The authors also gathered 12 semi-structured interviews with knowledgeable managers from B2B international companies.

Findings

The findings of the study highlight the challenges faced by the organisations during the implementation of the SCOR-based performance indicators and the positive impacts they have on decision-making and on the continuous improvement strategy of organisations to tackle supply chain risks and improve performance. The findings suggest that the effects of these indicators are more felt during risk management and risk monitoring stages.

Research limitations/implications

Like any other study, this study has some rules, and, thus, the authors caution the readers that they must interpret the findings of the research considering these limitations. The study is based on semi-structured qualitative interviews. The interviews were conducted with 12 knowledgeable managers from France; thus, the insights drawn from the study cannot be generalised to other settings. Furthermore, the samples represent something other than small and medium enterprises. In the future, the samples from small and medium firms can offer a nuanced understanding of the performance indicators for SCRM.

Originality/value

To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is one of the few studies which has attempted to revisit the SCOR-based PMS in the B2B supply chain for risk management. The study’s findings help expand the SCOR-based PMS literature and offer numerous insights to the management and consultants facing challenges in SCOR implementation.

Details

Journal of Business & Industrial Marketing, vol. 39 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0885-8624

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 30 April 2024

Baoxu Tu, Yuanfei Zhang, Kang Min, Fenglei Ni and Minghe Jin

This paper aims to estimate contact location from sparse and high-dimensional soft tactile array sensor data using the tactile image. The authors used three feature extraction…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to estimate contact location from sparse and high-dimensional soft tactile array sensor data using the tactile image. The authors used three feature extraction methods: handcrafted features, convolutional features and autoencoder features. Subsequently, these features were mapped to contact locations through a contact location regression network. Finally, the network performance was evaluated using spherical fittings of three different radii to further determine the optimal feature extraction method.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper aims to estimate contact location from sparse and high-dimensional soft tactile array sensor data using the tactile image.

Findings

This research indicates that data collected by probes can be used for contact localization. Introducing a batch normalization layer after the feature extraction stage significantly enhances the model’s generalization performance. Through qualitative and quantitative analyses, the authors conclude that convolutional methods can more accurately estimate contact locations.

Originality/value

The paper provides both qualitative and quantitative analyses of the performance of three contact localization methods across different datasets. To address the challenge of obtaining accurate contact locations in quantitative analysis, an indirect measurement metric is proposed.

Details

Industrial Robot: the international journal of robotics research and application, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0143-991X

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 September 2023

Roel Boomsma

This paper aims to extend some of the theoretical propositions of Michael Power’s (1997) audit society thesis by exploring the capacity of organisations to push back against…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to extend some of the theoretical propositions of Michael Power’s (1997) audit society thesis by exploring the capacity of organisations to push back against external accountability pressures. The paper positions the literature on non-governmental organisation (NGO) accounting and accountability as a “case study” against which the notion of the audit society is put to the test.

Design/methodology/approach

A qualitative meta-synthesis of the accounting literature is used to analyse how NGOs have responded to audit society pressures – most notably funder pressures to adopt formalised accountability mechanisms. The different responses of NGOs to funder accountability demands are analysed using Christine Oliver’s (1991) typology of strategic responses to institutional processes.

Findings

This review of the accounting literature unveils that NGOs can adopt a range of strategic responses to funder accountability pressures that vary from passive conformity to proactive manipulation. The findings confirm that NGOs often perceive acquiescence to funder accountability demands as necessary to ensure organisational survival. Yet, the author also found that NGO resistance to funder accountability pressures is more common than previously assumed. Five dominant forms of “accountability resistances” emerged from the analysis: evading accountability, disguising accountability, shielding accountability, negotiating accountability and shaping accountability.

Originality/value

By conducting a qualitative meta-synthesis of the accounting literature, the author was able to integrate the findings of prior research on NGO resistance to funder accountability demands, guide future research and extend Michael Power’s (1997) work by developing a more nuanced understanding of how organisations respond to external accountability pressures.

Details

Qualitative Research in Accounting & Management, vol. 21 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1176-6093

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 19 December 2023

Udani Chathurika Edirisinghe, Md Moazzem Hossain and Manzurul Alam

This study aims to explore the managerial conception of the determinants and barriers of sustainability integration into management control systems (MCS) of manufacturing…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to explore the managerial conception of the determinants and barriers of sustainability integration into management control systems (MCS) of manufacturing companies in Sri Lanka. Although existing literature has explored the factors that influence the adoption of specific management controls to handle environmental and social issues, the role of management conception has been underrepresented. Specifically, literature is scarce in identifying contextual and organisational factors that influence corporates beyond mere adoption of controls but to integrate with regular controls, especially in developing countries such as Sri Lanka.

Design/methodology/approach

A multiple case study approach has been used to identify the management conception of barriers and enablers for sustainability control integration. The analysis is conducted based on a theoretical framework extending the work of Gond et al. (2012) and George et al. (2016). To obtain an in-depth and multifaceted view, semi-structured interviews were conducted with managers in charge of different functional departments of five manufacturing companies.

Findings

The findings identified managers’ perceived factors, such as environmental impact, stakeholder pressure (customer, competitor and regulatory authorities) and top management commitment, showing a clear difference between strongly and weakly integrated companies. Contrary to the literature, domestic regulatory pressure and multinational ownership do not sufficiently drive MCS sustainability integration.

Practical implications

The findings have implications for managers and practitioners to anticipate the potential barriers and determinants of sustainability integration and provide guidance to take proper measures to deal with them when designing and implementing their MCS.

Originality/value

The study adds value to the literature by presenting a theoretical framework based on the triangulation of different theories to recognise the significance of management idea in sustainable integration. Furthermore, because sustainable integration of MCS is a novel idea, this research is one of the earlier attempts to highlight problems from the perspective of developing countries.

Details

Qualitative Research in Accounting & Management, vol. 21 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1176-6093

Keywords

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