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Article
Publication date: 20 January 2022

Alphonce Nchalala, Tausi Alexander and Ismail W.R. Taifa

The garment factories focus on improving their production systems by involving innovative and advanced production methods and/or techniques to cope with fast-changing trends…

Abstract

Purpose

The garment factories focus on improving their production systems by involving innovative and advanced production methods and/or techniques to cope with fast-changing trends. Accordingly, this study aims to establish the standard allowed minutes (SAMs) and sewing efficiencies for Tanzania’s sewing industry, thus improving the production processes.

Design/methodology/approach

The research deployed a quantitative method. A stopwatch measured each operation for shirts and trousers to compute SAMs and efficiency. The shirt manufacturing processes involved 40 operations. Ten measurements were taken from different SL and LL industries operators for each operation. The trouser comprised 42 operations with 10 measurements taken from a different operator at the same garment factories for each operation.

Findings

SAMs for shirts at SL and LL factories were 29 and 31 min, respectively, while trousers were 30 and 34 min. The sewing efficiencies for shirts at both SL and LL factories were 83.98% and 81.93%, respectively. Similarly, the sewing efficiencies for trousers at both SL and LL factories were 81.25% and 80.95%, respectively.

Research limitations/implications

Since SAMs results are not established through literature rather a quantitative approach, the findings thus place crucial information for similar factories to benchmark from. Such information are crucial as factories could increase productivity and operational efficiency, reduce costs and non-value adding activities and estimate lead times. Notwithstanding the findings gathered, the study only established SAMs for two garments.

Originality/value

Although the garment industry has been developing over the years, this study was probably among the first studies in Tanzania that established SAMs. Theoretical underpinnings indicate that the factories use the experience to assemble garments, thus the need for this study.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 May 2023

Jurgita Domskiene, Modesta Mitkute and Valdas Grigaliunas

This paper aims to present investigations of the influence of sewing and adhesive bonding technology on the aesthetic, mechanical and conductive properties of the e-textile…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to present investigations of the influence of sewing and adhesive bonding technology on the aesthetic, mechanical and conductive properties of the e-textile package. Commercially available conductive textiles are tested for the production of e-textile package by most common cut-and-sewn clothing production technologies.

Design/methodology/approach

Sewing, adhesive bonding and seam sealing technologies used to obtain e-textile packages with woven and knitted conductive textiles. Produced e-textile packages described in terms of thickness, bending rigidity and general appearance. Exploitation properties of prepared samples tested by cycle tensile experiment and discussed on the basis of variation of linear electrical resistance property.

Findings

Research has shown that a reliable e-textile package can be obtained by applying cut-and-sew technology for conductive tracks of silver coated woven and knitted material. Seam sealing by thermoplastic polymer layer has an impact on the electrical and deformation properties of the samples. To create attractive smart clothing design, the appropriate joining method and its technological parameters must be chosen to ensure the durability and safety of e-textile packages.

Originality/value

The findings of the research are of substantial value for the production of e-textiles by cut-and-sewn technologies. The required shape of the conductive textile element for various applications can be cut and joined to the garment parts using traditional sewing or adhesive bonding techniques.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 26 September 2023

Murat Demir and Gonca Balci Kilic

The purpose of this study is to explore the effect of stitch type and stitch direction on the dynamic drape behavior of the woven fabric.

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Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to explore the effect of stitch type and stitch direction on the dynamic drape behavior of the woven fabric.

Design/methodology/approach

In this paper, the effectiveness of stitch type and stitch directions on dynamic drape behaviors were investigated. Fabric parts were sewn together with two types of the stitch (lockstitch and overlock stitch) on three different stitch directions (warp, weft and bias (45°)). The static drape coefficients (SDC) of unsewn and sewn fabrics were measured according to the image process method. Dynamic drape coefficients (DDC) of fabrics were also measured using the same method at six different (25, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150 rpms) rotation speeds. Additionally, bending length and bending rigidity were measured using the Cantilever test method.

Findings

Experimental results showed that stitch type and stitch directions are effective on the dynamic drape behaviors of the fabric. Overlock stitch resulted in greater DDC than the lock stitch. For both of the stitch type, DDC for the stitch on the warp direction are greater than the stitch on the weft and bias direction for all speeds. In addition, bending length, hence the bending rigidity, are greater for overlock stitch type and always weft direction resulted in greater than the warp and bias direction.

Originality/value

Fabric drape is vital for garment appearance and is gaining popularity with the advancement of virtual technology, enabling virtual visualization of garments. While previous studies have predominantly examined either the static or dynamic drape behavior of individual fabric panels, or solely focused on the static drape behavior of sewn fabrics, this study acknowledges the significance of incorporating the influence of stitch type and direction on dynamic drape behaviors. Considering that fabrics are sewn together to create garments and that DDC provides a more accurate representation of real-time fabric behavior compared to SDC, this research makes a valuable contribution to the existing literature by investigating the impact of stitch type and direction specifically on DDC.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 September 2022

Hamza Smajić, Ramo Palalić and Nisar Ahmad

The study provides the emergence and evolution of the socioemotional wealth (SEW) concept in the family business field from 2007 (the inception date) until 2021. To provide a…

Abstract

Purpose

The study provides the emergence and evolution of the socioemotional wealth (SEW) concept in the family business field from 2007 (the inception date) until 2021. To provide a better overview of this notion, the study unfolds a deeper understanding of this term throughout the systematic literature review (SLR).

Design/methodology/approach

The study applies a systematic literature review (SLR) by analyzing the sample of 185SEW articles extracted from the Scopus database. To identify all relevant studies, the article selection process was carefully designed and divided into two phases with clear steps: identification of studies via databases and identification of studies via previous studies' reference lists. Selected studies were analyzed using the Bibliometrix R-tool, resulting in an analysis of the evolution of the trends in the SEW literature, citation analysis, and network analysis. Finally, this SLR included the content analysis of the 25 most-cited SEW articles.

Findings

The study provides a relevant and comprehensive overview facilitating empirical and theoretical research in this field and paving the way to develop new themes. The bottom line of the important findings is that the SEW concept is relatively new, alluding to a wealthy venue for future works. Other results and implications are discussed on the family business and SEW theme. Additionally, the study provides suggestions which could be used for future works in this area.

Originality/value

This is the first article related to the SEW concept in the family business. It portrays a clear picture of this field, providing relevant information on what has been done, as well as what the future possibilities are that might bode the future horizons in family businesses.

Details

Journal of Family Business Management, vol. 13 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2043-6238

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 16 September 2022

Virginia Blanzo-Mazagatos, Juan Bautista Delgado-García and Jesús P. Barrero

The study aims to analyze for the Spanish context the influence of the involvement of several generations in the firm's management on family firm internationalization. The authors…

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Abstract

Purpose

The study aims to analyze for the Spanish context the influence of the involvement of several generations in the firm's management on family firm internationalization. The authors also respond to the call in the literature to consider the influence of SEW on family firm internationalizations by analyzing the moderating effect of the importance family managers attach to each of the socioemotional wealth (SEW) dimensions – enrichment, continuity and prominence on the relationship between multiple generations involved in management and family firm internationalization.

Design/methodology/approach

The information was obtained by means of a questionnaire sent to the CEOs of family businesses. The authors’ sample consists of 147 Spanish family firms.

Findings

The authors find that the involvement of multiple generations in management is positively related to the internationalization of family firms. Furthermore, the importance that family CEOs attribute to the enrichment dimension of SEW reduces the intensity of the effect of the involvement of several generations in management on family firm internationalization.

Originality/value

The authors’ results, for the Spanish context, complement previous studies (Meneses et al., 2014) showing that the entry of new generations into the family business opens a window of opportunity for the internationalization of the family business. Furthermore, their study shows that the diverse family objectives by CEOs can have different, even conflicting effects on the internationalization decision. These results suggest that the enrichment dimension, which focuses on the short-term family goals may restrain the internationalization of the family business. However, continuity and prominence dimensions, which are related with long term family objectives and jointly enable the fulfillment of nonfamily stakeholders’ objectives, do not influence the internationalization of the family firms analyzed.

Details

Journal of Family Business Management, vol. 14 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2043-6238

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 21 September 2022

Song Thanh Quynh Le and Van Nam Huynh

Task complexity is one of the significant factors that influences and is used for forecasting employee performance and determining labor cost. However, the complexity level of…

Abstract

Purpose

Task complexity is one of the significant factors that influences and is used for forecasting employee performance and determining labor cost. However, the complexity level of tasks is unstructured, dynamic and complicated to perform. This paper develops a new method for evaluating the complexity level of tasks in the production process to support production managers to control their manufacturing systems in terms of flexibility, reliability to production planning and labor cost.

Design/methodology/approach

The complexity level of tasks will be analyzed based on the structuralist concept. Using the structure of task, the factors that significantly affect the task complexity in an assembly line will be defined, and the complexity level of the task will be evaluated by measuring the number of task components. Using the proportional 2-tuples linguistic values, the difference between the complexity levels of tasks can be compared and described clearly.

Findings

Based on the structure of the task, three contributory factors including input factors, process-operation factors and output factors that significantly affect the task complexity in an assembly line are identified in the present study. The complexity level of the task is quantified through analyzing the details of the three factors according to two criteria and six sub-criteria within the textile case study.

Originality/value

The proposed approach provides a new insight about the factors that have an effect on the complexity of tasks in production and remedies some of limitations of previous methods. The combination of experts' experience and scientific knowledge will improve the accuracy in determining the complexity level of tasks.

Details

International Journal of Productivity and Performance Management, vol. 72 no. 10
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1741-0401

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 27 March 2024

Temesgen Agazhie and Shalemu Sharew Hailemariam

This study aims to quantify and prioritize the main causes of lean wastes and to apply reduction methods by employing better waste cause identification methodologies.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to quantify and prioritize the main causes of lean wastes and to apply reduction methods by employing better waste cause identification methodologies.

Design/methodology/approach

We employed fuzzy techniques for order preference by similarity to the ideal solution (FTOPSIS), fuzzy analytical hierarchy process (FAHP), and failure mode effect analysis (FMEA) to determine the causes of defects. To determine the current defect cause identification procedures, time studies, checklists, and process flow charts were employed. The study focuses on the sewing department of a clothing industry in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.

Findings

These techniques outperform conventional techniques and offer a better solution for challenging decision-making situations. Each lean waste’s FMEA criteria, such as severity, occurrence, and detectability, were examined. A pairwise comparison revealed that defect has a larger effect than other lean wastes. Defects were mostly caused by inadequate operator training. To minimize lean waste, prioritizing their causes is crucial.

Research limitations/implications

The research focuses on a case company and the result could not be generalized for the whole industry.

Practical implications

The study used quantitative approaches to quantify and prioritize the causes of lean waste in the garment industry and provides insight for industrialists to focus on the waste causes to improve their quality performance.

Originality/value

The methodology of integrating FMEA with FAHP and FTOPSIS was the new contribution to have a better solution to decision variables by considering the severity, occurrence, and detectability of the causes of wastes. The data collection approach was based on experts’ focus group discussion to rate the main causes of defects which could provide optimal values of defect cause prioritization.

Details

International Journal of Quality & Reliability Management, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0265-671X

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 February 2023

José Leão, Leydiana de Sousa Pereira and Maria Luiza Xavier De Holanda Cavalcanti

Textile manufacturers worldwide are reformulating their networks, often outsourcing them to maintain a competitive advantage and increase market share. From this perspective, the…

Abstract

Purpose

Textile manufacturers worldwide are reformulating their networks, often outsourcing them to maintain a competitive advantage and increase market share. From this perspective, the purpose of this study is support the partnership selection process to develop a sustainable chain that effectively meets customer needs. Brazil has the largest textile and apparel chain in the West and is distinguished by its completeness, from fiber production, spinning, weaving, knitting, finishing and sewing to fashion shows. However, a firm’s relationship, especially in the production stage, is based on informal contracts, which result in a negative operational impact.

Design/methodology/approach

A methodological framework was developed based on a stable matching process to determine the optimal supplier network structure. This study presents a model application for the denim apparel chain in northeast Brazil.

Findings

In these environments, providing choices and recommending suppliers can be beneficial for effectively attending to demand requests, reducing production costs and improving quality through collaboration with sense relationships in a network. Thus, this study presents a better match from the negotiators’ perspective.

Originality/value

The findings of this research are of primary interest for guiding collaborative network composition in the textile and apparel chain. In particular, apparel domain companies can improve their effectiveness in decision-making by measuring the characteristics and potential of all companies involved in networks.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 February 2024

Eunice Benyah, Richard Acquaye and Raphael Kanyire Seidu

The innovativeness of dressmakers is a concern to respondents to satisfy their clothing needs. The purpose of this study is to determine the criteria that respondents use to judge…

Abstract

Purpose

The innovativeness of dressmakers is a concern to respondents to satisfy their clothing needs. The purpose of this study is to determine the criteria that respondents use to judge the quality of clothing and its influences on the innovative ability of dressmakers in the clothing manufacturing industries.

Design/methodology/approach

Three hundred and ninety-seven (397) respondents in the Takoradi Metropolis of Ghana filled out a questionnaire, and the results were used to compile data for the study. The sample size was calculated using Miller and Brewer formula. The data was analysed using structural equational modelling with the SmartPLS v.4 software.

Findings

The results showed that respondents are very interested in the calibre of clothing produced by their dressmakers. However, the study revealed that when evaluating the quality of a garment, respondents do not simply accept what has been sewn for them but also consider the performance, appearance, fit and shape of the garment. Findings revealed that there was a significant relationship between garment appearance quality (t = 2.605; p < 0.05), garment performance quality (t = 3.915; p < 0.05), garment shape quality (t = 6.248; p <0.05) and fashion innovations. Subsequently, the evaluation of garment fit quality by respondents revealed it does not bring about innovations (t = 1.310; p > 0.05).

Practical implications

The continuous evaluation of custom-made clothing from customers will go a long way towards highlighting the relative criteria they use to evaluate the innovation of dressmakers. This will help improve the creativity of the dressmakers since such feedback will help them understand and innovate their production skills to meet the preferences of customers.

Originality/value

The present study provides an in-depth understanding of how garment quality evaluation by customers influences the innovation of dressmakers in Takoradi, Ghana. The constructs were developed for the study to capture the appropriate data from customers for the study. This presents an evaluation criterion on four garment quality variables imperative for use or modification by other studies.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 December 2021

Liliana Ávila and Marlene Amorim

This paper aims to describe an exploratory study aiming to identify the mechanisms adopted by social enterprises for effective operations based on volunteer work.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to describe an exploratory study aiming to identify the mechanisms adopted by social enterprises for effective operations based on volunteer work.

Design/methodology/approach

An inductive multiple case study method was used addressing three social enterprises whose operations rely on a volunteer workforce.

Findings

Volunteer-based operations benefit from the establishment of a formal structure, involving different levels of volunteering complemented with other mechanisms, namely, educate and train, empower and connect. Special attention must be given to first-level volunteers, reinforcing the range of practices to motivate and engage them, as they serve as intermediaries between the paid employees and lower-level volunteers.

Practical implications

The study provides valuable insights for managers for the implementation of effective operations, building on volunteer work, aiming at the generation of social and economic value.

Social implications

Due to their innovative character, social enterprises are well-positioned to mobilize more and more qualified volunteers for a significant change in their communities. Adopting a more strategic and structured approach to volunteer management can enable these organizations to take advantage of it.

Originality/value

This study contributes to the literature on social enterprise by identifying a set of mechanisms adopted for effective volunteer-based operations. It also contributes to the literature on volunteer management by addressing an underexplored context.

Details

International Journal of Organizational Analysis, vol. 31 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1934-8835

Keywords

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