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Article
Publication date: 7 June 2024

Abhishek Kumar and Manpreet Manshahia

Stitching is the traditional method of creating seams using needles and threads. However, this is not useful for waterproof breathable garments as needle holes allow water to…

Abstract

Purpose

Stitching is the traditional method of creating seams using needles and threads. However, this is not useful for waterproof breathable garments as needle holes allow water to penetrate inside the garment, compromising its functionality. This study aims to investigate different techniques for covering the needle holes formed during stitching to achieve a seam that is waterproof, durable and functionally effective.

Design/methodology/approach

This study investigates different methods to cover needle holes formed during stitching with the help of seam tape, seam grip adhesive and fuser thread. The emphasis is on evaluating the seam characteristics, including seam strength, seam efficiency, puckering, bending stiffness and resistance to water penetration. Statistical analysis involves the use of the Shapiro–Wilk test, Levene statistic, one-way ANOVA and Tukey’s HSD and Tamhane post-hoc tests.

Findings

The experimental results suggest that seam tape is effective in enhancing water resistance, seam strength and seam efficiency, but it contributes to stiffness and aesthetically degrades seams due to increased puckering. Meanwhile, the use of fuser thread presents an alternative, exhibiting improved waterproof properties compared to regular stitching. It offers more flexibility and less puckering compared to seam tape.

Originality/value

This study contributes novel insights by shifting the focus from alternative seaming methods such as bonding and welding, to enhancing traditional stitching for waterproof seam construction. While prior research primarily explored alternatives to stitching, this study uniquely addresses the effectiveness of different techniques in covering needle holes to achieve waterproof seams. The findings provide valuable information for enhancing the functionality of stitched seams in the production of waterproof breathable garments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 20 March 2024

Alexandra Frank and Dalena Dillman Taylor

Post-COVID-19, public K–12 schools are still facing the consequences of the years of interrupted learning. Schools serving minoritized students are particularly at risk for facing…

Abstract

Purpose

Post-COVID-19, public K–12 schools are still facing the consequences of the years of interrupted learning. Schools serving minoritized students are particularly at risk for facing challenges with academics, behavior and student social emotional health. The university counseling programs are in positions to build capacity in urban schools while also supporting counselors-in-training through service-learning opportunities.

Design/methodology/approach

The following conceptual manuscript demonstrates how counselor education counseling programs and public schools can harness the capacity-building benefits of university–school partnerships. While prevalent in fields like special education, counselor educators have yet to heed the hall to participate in mutually beneficial partnership programs.

Findings

Using the multi-tiered systems of support (MTSS) and the components of the university–school partnerships, counselor educators and school stakeholders can work together to support student mental health, school staff well-being and counselor-in-training competence.

Originality/value

The benefits and opportunities within the university–school partnerships are well documented. However, few researchers have described a model to support partnerships between the university counseling programs and urban elementary schools. We provide a best practice model using the principles of university–school partnerships and a school’s existing MTSS framework.

Details

School-University Partnerships, vol. 17 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1935-7125

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 June 2024

Liuyong Wang, Qi Wu, Ziming Song, Yue Li, Xuewen Li, Bing Tu and Yulong Li

This study aims to investigate the wetting behavior of AgCuTi and AgCu filler metals on selective laser melting (SLMed) Ti/TiB2, and to analyze the microstructure and fracture…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to investigate the wetting behavior of AgCuTi and AgCu filler metals on selective laser melting (SLMed) Ti/TiB2, and to analyze the microstructure and fracture characteristics of SLMed Ti/TiB2/AgCuTi or AgCu alloy/SLMed Ti/TiB2 brazed joints. The wetting behavior of AgCuTi and AgCu filler metals on the selective laser melted (SLMed) Ti/TiB2 has been studied. The analysis of microstructures and fracture characteristics in vacuum-brazed SLMed Ti/TiB2 substrate, using AgCuTi and AgCu filler metals, has been conducted to elucidate the influence of brazing temperature and alloy composition on the shear strength of the brazed joints.

Design/methodology/approach

Brazing SLMed-Ti/TiB2 in a vacuum using AgCuTi and AgCu filler metals, this study aims to explore the optimal parameters for brazed joints at various brazing temperatures (800°C−950°C).

Findings

The findings suggest that elevated brazing temperatures lead to a more extensive diffusion region in the joint as a result of the partial melting of the filler metal. The joint composition changes from distinct Ti2Cu layer/TiCu layer/filler metal to a-Ti (ss) + ß-Ti (ss)/TiCu. As the brazing temperature increases, the fracture mode shifts from brittle cleavage to ductile fracture, mainly attributed to a decrease in the CuTi within the brazed joint. This change in fracture behavior indicates an improvement in the ductility and toughness of the joint.

Originality/value

The originality of this study lies in the comprehensive analysis of the microstructure and shear strength of vacuum brazing SLMed Ti/TiB2 using AgCuTi and AgCu filler metals.

Details

Soldering & Surface Mount Technology, vol. 36 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0954-0911

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 August 2024

Juanyan Miao, Yiwen Li, Siyu Zhang, Honglei Zhao, Wenfeng Zou, Chenhe Chang and Yunlong Chang

The purpose of this study is to optimize and improve conventional welding using EMF assisted technology. Current industrial production has put forward higher requirements for…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to optimize and improve conventional welding using EMF assisted technology. Current industrial production has put forward higher requirements for welding technology, so the optimization and improvement of traditional welding methods become urgent needs.

Design/methodology/approach

External magnetic field assisted welding is an emerging technology in recent years, acting in a non-contact manner on the welding. The action of electromagnetic forces on the arc plasma leads to significant changes in the arc behavior, which affects the droplet transfer and molten pool formation and ultimately improve the weld seam formation and joint quality.

Findings

In this paper, different types of external magnetic fields are analyzed and summarized, which mainly include external transverse magnetic field, external longitudinal magnetic field and external cusp magnetic field. The research progress of welding behavior under the effect of external magnetic field is described, including the effect of external magnetic field on arc morphology, droplet transfer and weld seam formation law.

Originality/value

However, due to the extremely complex physical processes under the action of the external magnetic field, the mechanism of physical fields such as heat, force and electromagnetism in the welding has not been thoroughly analyzed, in-depth theoretical and numerical studies become urgent.

Details

Rapid Prototyping Journal, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1355-2546

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 3 June 2024

Duygu Yavuzkasap Ayakta, Şule Altun Kurtoğlu and Demet Yilmaz

Wool fiber is accepted as one of the natural and renewable sources and has been used in the apparel and textile industry since ancient times. However, wool fiber has the highest…

Abstract

Purpose

Wool fiber is accepted as one of the natural and renewable sources and has been used in the apparel and textile industry since ancient times. However, wool fiber has the highest global warming potential value among conventional fibres due to its high land use and high methane gas generation. This study aimed to recycle the wool fabric wastes and also to create a mini eco-collection by using the produced yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

This manuscript aimed to evaluate the fabric wastes of a woolen fabric producer company. Fabric wastes were opened with two different opening systems and fiber properties were determined. First, conventional ring yarns were produced in the company’s own spinning mill by mixing the opened fibres with the long fiber wastes of the company. In addition, opening wastes were mixed with different fibres (polyester, long wool waste, and Tencel fibres) between 25% and 70% in the short-staple yarn spinning mill and used in the production of conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns. Most of the yarns contained waste fibres at 50%. Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained and fabric properties were examined. Also, a fabric collection was created. A life cycle assessment (LCA) was made for one of the selected yarns.

Findings

At the end of the study, it was determined that it was possible to produce yarn and fabric samples from fiber blends containing high waste fiber ratios beyond 50%. All the woven fabric samples produced from conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns gave higher breaking, tearing and stitch slip strength values in the weft and warp direction than limit quality values of the company. In addition, abrasion resistance and WIRA steam stability properties of the fabric samples were also sufficient. Environmental analysis of the recycling of the wastes showed a possible decrease of about 9940034.3 kg CO2e per year in the global warming potential. In addition, fiber raw material expenses reduced yarn production cost about 50% in case of opened fabric waste usage. However, due to insufficient pilling resistance results, it was decided to evaluate the woven fabrics for the product groups such as shawls and blankets, where pilling resistance is less sought.

Originality/value

The original aspects of the article can be summarized under two headings. First, there are limited studies on the evaluation of wool wastes compared to cotton and polyester fibres and the number of samples examined was limited. However, this study was quite comprehensive in terms of opening type (rag and tearing), spinning systems (long and short spinning processes), fiber blends (waste 100% and blends with polyester, long wool waste and Tencel fibres) and yarn counts (coarser and finer). Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained using different colour combinations and weave types. All processes from fabric waste to product production were followed and evaluated. Life cycle assessment (LCA) and cost analysis was also done. The second unique aspect is that the problem of a real wool company was handled by taking the waste of the woolen company and a collection was created for the customer group of the company. Production was made under real production conditions. Therefore, this study will provide important findings to the research field about recycling, sustainability etc.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 November 2022

April Denny, Bruce Moore, Sean Newcomer and Jeff Nessler

The purpose of this study was to determine whether there are differences in skin temperature under graphene-infused fleece and traditional polyester fleece materials in the…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study was to determine whether there are differences in skin temperature under graphene-infused fleece and traditional polyester fleece materials in the interior of a wetsuit.

Design/methodology/approach

A total of 48 participants surfed for a minimum of 40 min in a custom wetsuit with a torso lined with graphene-infused fleece on one half and traditional polyester fleece on the other. Eight iButton thermistors were used to record skin temperatures bilaterally at the upper back, chest, abdomen and lower back every minute for the entire surf session. After surfing, participants responded to questions associated with their perception of warmth and comfort and their knowledge of fleece materials.

Findings

Skin temperatures did not differ between the two types of fleece at the upper back, chest and abdomen locations. Skin temperatures in the lower back were significantly warmer under the traditional polyester fleece compared to graphene-infused fleece. Participant responses associated with warmth were consistent with skin temperature measurements.

Practical implications

The results of this study indicate that a graphene-infused nylon fleece interior does not clearly influence skin temperature in surfers when compared to a traditional polyester fleece interior. While skin temperatures were significantly lower under the graphene-infused nylon fleece at the low back, the other three anatomical locations did not exhibit significant differences.

Originality/value

Thermoregulation is an important consideration for the safety and performance of surfers in the ocean. Evidence suggests that the inner lining of a wetsuit may impact thermoregulation while surfing; however, no prior studies have compared interior materials.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 August 2024

Ashika Sweetlin Sowmi P. and Renjini G.

Breastfeeding bras are functional garments having specialised features to facilitate easy breastfeeding. The purpose of this paper is to design and develop breastfeeding bra…

Abstract

Purpose

Breastfeeding bras are functional garments having specialised features to facilitate easy breastfeeding. The purpose of this paper is to design and develop breastfeeding bra prototypes with a focus on the needs of the user.

Design/methodology/approach

The method uses gathering breastfeeding user requirements through consumer surveys. The subsequent data analysis and a literature review provided the basis for feature selection for the breastfeeding bra designs. The bras were constructed using ultrasonic welding and bonding techniques. The mechanical properties of the fabric were measured. Lastly, the designed bras underwent a wear trial to evaluate their effectiveness.

Findings

The bra prototypes use non-restrictive designs and aesthetically appealing construction methods with smooth panel joints. The results of the wear trial demonstrated the successful incorporation of user requirements in the final product.

Originality/value

The insights from user-need mapping through consumer surveys and a literature review provided the basis for the new design of breastfeeding bras using stitchless technology. The developed bras have unique features that have not been explored earlier in this product category.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 29 July 2024

Elisaveta Doncheva, Nikola Avramov, Aleksandra Krstevska, Martin Petreski, Jelena Djokikj and Marjan Djidrov

Welding is a widely used manufacturing process in many industries. The process consumes a lot of energy and resources, pollutes the environment, and emits gases and fumes into the…

Abstract

Purpose

Welding is a widely used manufacturing process in many industries. The process consumes a lot of energy and resources, pollutes the environment, and emits gases and fumes into the atmosphere that are dangerous to human health. There are various welding processes, and the suitable welding process is usually chosen based on cost, material, and conditions. Subjectivity is the most significant impediment to selecting an optimal process. As a result, it is critical to develop the appropriate set of criteria, use the best tool and methodology, and collect sufficient data. This study examines the sustainability of welding processes and their environmental impact.

Design/methodology/approach

The welding process’s sustainability was examined and discussed in general, considering the technological specifics of each welding process, physical performance, and environmental, economic, and social effects. The study investigates the environmental impact of MMAW, GMAW, and GTAW/GMAW processes through experimental work and LCA methodology.

Findings

MMAW is the most environmentally harmful technology, whereas GMAW has the least impact. The GTAW/GMAW process outperformed the other processes in terms of yield stress, but the analyses revealed that it had a greater environmental impact than GMAW.

Originality/value

The study provides an environmental impact summary and demonstrates the effects of welding parameters and processes. This gives users an understanding of choosing the best welding technique or making the process more environmentally friendly. These recommendations help policymakers identify hot spots and implement the right plans to achieve more sustainable manufacturing.

Details

International Journal of Structural Integrity, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1757-9864

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 22 May 2024

Albert Lin, Cindy Kao and Heeju Park

This study aims to develop and evaluate a modular smart garment design framework that simplifies the technical content associated with smart garment design.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to develop and evaluate a modular smart garment design framework that simplifies the technical content associated with smart garment design.

Design/methodology/approach

Smart garment design challenges were first identified through literature review and interviews. Then, a modular framework and toolkit was created to address these challenges. Finally, workshops were held to evaluate the modular toolkit.

Findings

Interviews highlighted the need for easier attachment of hard devices to soft textile materials, simpler electrical connection creation and straightforward device selection. A modular framework was proposed and divided into four elements: (1) the Central Computation Module, (2) Peripheral Electrical Modules, (3) Securely Attaching Modules with Substrates and (4) Managing Intra-garment Connections. Workshops showed the modular framework had statistically significant improvements in function and certain ease ratings when compared to non-modular components.

Originality/value

This research identified specific technical challenges faced by smart garment designers and alleviated them through a modular smart garment framework that in workshops outperformed non-modular components in key function and ease ratings.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 6 September 2024

Noelle K. Brigden

Taking the Mamá Fit memes and other social media eruptions as a starting point and delving deeper into popular print media, this chapter traces the racialized and gendered…

Abstract

Taking the Mamá Fit memes and other social media eruptions as a starting point and delving deeper into popular print media, this chapter traces the racialized and gendered practices that constitute fitness in El Salvador in a diasporic context. Importantly, the word fit is now often expressed in English, captured in the names of commercial gyms and diet advertisements; the use of this word signals an important cultural change in conventional understandings of the body in a Spanish-speaking society. By charting the emergence of this new health/beauty norm in a transnational domain, this chapter explores the relationship between shifting patterns of gendered body discipline and changes in El Salvador’s location within the global political economy. This chapter argues that fitness discourse has become a subtle, but powerful, conduit for coloniality during a renegotiation of the meaning of gender to fit a neoliberal reality. The argument ends by pointing in the direction of future research to explore how this discourse is experienced in embodied practice with potentially contradictory impacts in Salvadoran society.

Details

Embodiment and Representations of Beauty
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-83797-994-3

Keywords

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