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Sewing is the most widely used and preferred method for manufacturing clothing products for extreme weather conditions and other industrial insulation systems. Multiple layers of functional fabrics in combination with insulation materials are used to thermally insulate precious body heat from its surrounding cold environment. The sewing process fixes the insulation material between the fabric layers. During conventional sewing, the insulation material is compressed along the stitch line. With the compression of the insulation material, entrapped air is forced to leave the insulation material internal structure, and heat loss occurs along the entire length of the stitch line. It results in the deterioration of thermal properties of the end product along the stitch line.

The amount of air, which is a decisive factor for thermal properties of any insulation system, was investigated at the level of a unit stitch length of a lockstitch. Conventional microscopy methods are not suitable to study the compression along the stitch line. With the help of X-ray tomography, the three-dimensional data of a stitch was taken and studied to measure the volume of air. The samples were prepared with conventional lockstitch sewing and a newly developed innovative sewing method “Spacer Stitching.” The results are compared with each other in terms of the amount of air present in a unit stitch length.

Calculations based on X-ray tomography images of lockstitch and spacer stitch revealed that, in the case of lockstitch, a unit stitch has a 15% of its volume made up of material and 85% of its volume by air. In comparison, the spacer stitch with the same sewing and fabric parameters has a material volume of 4.6 % and an air volume of 95.4% in a single stitch.

The research can positively improve the thermal properties of sewn material made for insulating purposes of conventional clothing as well as of industrial insulations.

There is no literature available which investigates and calculates the amount of air and material present along with a stitch line.

Sweating is thermo-regulatory behaviour that occurs when a person performs vigorous activity even in cold climatic condition. One of important component of sweat is the presence of lactate. Based on climatic condition, age, gender, maturity and nature of activity level, the change in lactate concentration is inevitable. Hence, the present study is focussed on the impact of change in the lactate concentration on the moisture transmission behaviour through the clothing. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the impact of changing lactate concentration on the moisture vapour transmission behaviour through multi-layered clothing ensembles.

For the investigation, sweat solution representing male and female sweat were taken for present study. Two different multi-layered ensembles consisting of either spacer or fleece as middle layer were considered. The water vapour permeability and drying rate test were done at standard atmospheric conditions. After testing, ANOVA analysis was done in order to determine the most significant parameters.

Fabric structure (constituent layers) behaved differently when tested individually and as the layered component with different sweat solutions. Water vapour permeability of sweat solution with higher lactate concentration was lower as compared to sweat solution with lower lactate concentration. Individual layers showed higher rate of vapour permeability with sweat solution containing lower lactate concentration as compared to multi-layered ensembles. Role of PU coated nylon fabric was predominant in case of multi-layered ensembles. Difference in transmission of sweat solution was found higher in case of uni-directional stitched multi-layer spacer ensembles whereas marginal difference was observed in case of bi-directional seamed multi-layer spacer ensemble. Drying rate of sweat containing lower concentration of lactate was higher as compared to the other sweat solution for all the selected fabrics. Density of liquid and amount of the water available for drying influenced the drying behaviour and thus accounted for difference in drying rate of sweat solution differing in the lactate concentration. The contribution percentage of layers, i.e. type of structure was higher (nearly 93–96%) compared to that of solution type (3.3–4.9%) in case of individual layers whereas in the case of the multi-layer ensembles; type of seam had maximum contribution percentage (71–77%) followed by solution type (10–15%). Type of layers had least contribution percentage (nearly 7–9%).

The findings from the study are expected to be realistic and important in designing and development of cold weather garment ensemble for different gender type depending on their activity level especially in case of military personnel and those performing combat activities.

This experimental work based will provide the insight about the behaviour of actual sweat transmission through the layered fabric ensembles and ways to prevent the accumulation of moisture near to human skin surface by manufacturing suitable design structures (in terms of layering composition and seam patterns) per the morphology and requirement of specific consumers.

In experiments utilising sweat solution and distilled water, seamed ensembles performed less thermally efficiently than unseamed fabrics.

Water may not accurately reflect perspiration when testing multi-layered clothes for thermal comfort in wet state. Most researchers used water or sodium chloride (NaCl) to measure wet state thermal comfort. However, human perspiration is an extremely complex mixture of aqueous chemicals, including minerals, salts, lipids, urea and lactic acid. This study compares the effects of simulated sweat solution to distilled water on the thermal behaviour of a multi-layered fabric assembly with different seam patterns.

Experiment results show that stitching decreases thermal resistance and thermal conductivity. Seam pattern of 10 cm diagonal spacing is more thermally resistant than 2.5 cm diagonal spacing. In comparison to that of simulated sweat, fabric that has been moistened with distilled water exhibits increased thermal conductivity. Hollow polyester wadding or micro polyester wadding as the intermediate layer exhibits greater thermal resistance than multi-layered construction with spacer fabric as middle layer.

This study considers human perspiration while designing protective clothing for wet thermal comfort.

Examines the twelfth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Examines the thirteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Examines the fourteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Simulating the behavior of clothing has always been of interest in the apparel, fashion and computer game industries. With the development of these industries, there is a need to increase the accuracy of clothing simulation techniques. A garment contains many seams whose behavior affects its final appearance. In this study, a numerical model is presented to simulate seam puckers in single- and double-layer fabrics.

A yarn-level simulation technique has been used for this purpose. Based on this technique, the individual threads in the fabric structure and the sewing threads are modeled separately. Then, their behavior and interaction with each other are considered in the seam pucker model.

The model is used to simulate the real samples. The results show that the proposed model is able to simulate the degree of seam puckering for a single-layer fabric with an average error of 7.9% and for a double-layer fabric with an average error of 8.5%.

The behavior of the seam is affected by the properties, behavior and interaction of the sewing threads and yarns in the fabric structure. In previous studies, the parameters related to seams and fabrics were not fully considered. In this study, a new yarn-level model is presented to simulate seam puckering in woven fabrics. The most important advantage of this type of simulation is the ability to examine the interaction of fabric threads as well as the interaction of sewing threads with each other and with the threads of the fabric structure.

Design of bedding textiles that contact the human body affects the sleep quality. Bedding textiles contribute to comfort sense during the sleep duration, in addition to ambient and bed microclimate. The purpose of this study is to evaluate the effects of different layer properties on the compression recovery and thermal characteristics of multilayer bedding textiles.

In this study, woven and knitted multilayer bedding textiles were manufactured from fabric, fiber, sponge and interlining, respectively. Different sponge thickness, fiber and interlining weight were used in the layers of samples. Later, the pilling resistance, compression and recovery, air permeability and thermal conductivity of multilayer bedding textiles were investigated.

The results indicated that samples with the higher layer weight and thickness provide better compression recovery and lower air permeability properties. It was also found that knitted surfaces show the higher air permeability than the woven surfaces depending on the fabric porosity. Layer properties have insignificant effect on the thermal conductivity values.

While researchers mostly focus on thermal comfort properties of garments, there are limited studies about comfort properties of bedding textiles in the literature. Furthermore, compression recovery properties of bedding textiles have also a great importance in terms of comfort. Originality of this study is that these properties were analyzed together.