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Article
Publication date: 10 May 2023

Berihun Bizuneh and Abrham Destaw

The purpose of this study was to assess the body characteristics (body size, garment sizes worn, shape and body satisfaction) of Ethiopian young adult female consumers and their…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study was to assess the body characteristics (body size, garment sizes worn, shape and body satisfaction) of Ethiopian young adult female consumers and their effects on garment fit satisfaction and fit preferences of ready-to-wear garments such as T-shirts, blouses/shirts, skirts and jeans trousers.

Design/methodology/approach

Through a structured questionnaire, 418 usable responses were collected from young female university students. One-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) and multivariate ANOVA (MANOVA) were used to examine differences in garment fit satisfaction with the body characteristics of the respondents. Moreover, a multiple regression analysis was used to determine the effect of body characteristics and fit satisfaction on fit preferences in four of the ready-to-wear garments.

Findings

The body shapes of above half of the respondents were either bottom hourglass or spoon. The respondents were somewhat dissatisfied with the fit of the ready-to-wear garments, and above 70 per cent of them faced fit problems on average. BMI showed significant fit satisfaction differences in four of the garments, while garment sizes worn were significant only in skirts. However, no statistically significant difference was obtained with body shape. The effect of body characteristics and fit satisfaction on fit preferences was found significant in T-shirts and jeans trousers. The respondents preferred looser shirts and skirts irrespective of their body characteristics.

Originality/value

The paper is unique in comprehensively examining the relationship between body characteristics and garment fit satisfaction and their effects on fit preferences in selected garments in the context of female consumers in a developing country.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 26 January 2022

Berihun Bizuneh, Abrham Destaw and Bizuayehu Mamo

The purpose of this study is to explore fit problems, satisfaction and preferences of Ethiopian male consumers of ready-made garments (shirt, polo shirt, sweater and khaki and…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to explore fit problems, satisfaction and preferences of Ethiopian male consumers of ready-made garments (shirt, polo shirt, sweater and khaki and jeans trousers) and highlight the need for a domestic standard garment size chart.

Design/methodology/approach

Using a structured questionnaire, 405 usable responses were collected from consumers in four cities (Bahir Dar, Kombolcha, Dessie and Addis Ababa) based on convenience sampling. Moreover, the pattern-making methods of 12 domestic garment manufacturing companies were investigated. One-way analysis of variance and multivariate analysis of variance were used to examine differences in fit satisfaction with age, body size and shape. Multiple regression was used to test hypotheses.

Findings

The participants were mostly neither satisfied nor dissatisfied with the fit of the garments irrespective of their age, body size and shape. While age was found to be insignificant, apparel sizes worn and body shape were found to be significant predictors of fit type in most garments. It was also found that most of the domestic garment manufacturing companies use the knock-off method for pattern making, which results in a bad fit as the basic garment for the knock-off is constructed based on other countries’ standards.

Originality/value

This study investigates the fit problems and preferences of ready-made garments in the context of consumers in a developing country. Moreover, it has a contribution in considering men’s body shape in the analysis of fit preferences. The results have implications for developing domestic standard garment size charts to improve fit satisfaction.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 August 2023

Berihun Bizuneh, Abrham Destaw, Fasika Hailu, Solomon Tsegaye and Bizuayehu Mamo

Sizing system is a fundamental topic in garment fitting. The purpose of this study was to assess the fit of existing police uniforms (shirt, jacket, overcoat and trousers) and…

Abstract

Purpose

Sizing system is a fundamental topic in garment fitting. The purpose of this study was to assess the fit of existing police uniforms (shirt, jacket, overcoat and trousers) and develop a sizing system for upper and lower body uniforms of Amhara policemen in Ethiopia.

Design/methodology/approach

In total, 35 body dimensions of 889 policemen were taken through a manual anthropometric survey following the procedures in ISO 8559:1989 after each subject was interviewed on issues related to garment fit. The anthropometric data were pre-processed, key body dimensions were identified by principal components analysis and body types were clustered by the agglomerative hierarchical clustering algorithm and verified by the XGBoost classifier in a Python programming environment. The developed size charts were validated statistically using aggregate loss and accommodation rate.

Findings

About 44% of the subjects encountered fit problems every time they own new readymade uniforms. Lengths and side seams of shirts, and lengths and waist girths of trousers are the most frequently altered garment sites. Analysis of the anthropometric measurements resulted in 13 and 15 sizes for the upper and lower bodies, respectively. Moreover, the comparison of the developed upper garment size chart with the existing size chart for a shirt showed a considerable difference. This indicates that inappropriate size charts create fit problems.

Originality/value

The study considers the analysis of fit problems and sizing system development in a less researched country. Moreover, the proposed data mining procedure and its application for size chart development is unique and workable.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 27 February 2023

Courtney Chrimes, Rosy Boardman, Helen McCormick and Gianpaolo Vignali

Body shape is a critical variable influencing consumers' garment choices (Zakaria, 2017), yet research investigating how UK females with varying body shapes evaluate and…

Abstract

Purpose

Body shape is a critical variable influencing consumers' garment choices (Zakaria, 2017), yet research investigating how UK females with varying body shapes evaluate and experience fit is limited. Moreover, while digital methods exist to classify female body shapes, application in a commercial setting is limited. To fill this gap within the literature, this study aims to understand the influence of body shape variation on garment fit evaluations of 30 UK females aged 18–34 years.

Design/methodology/approach

This study conducts a physical garment try-on session whereby 30 UK females aged 18–34 years were body-scanned and categorised into a body shape, using the Female Figure Identification Technique method. Participants verbalised their fit experiences during a physical try-on session through semi-structured interviews to gain a deeper understanding of individuals' fit appraisals.

Findings

The findings demonstrate that UK females who share the same body shape classification experience the same issues when appraising dress fit, challenging Makhanya and Mabuza (2020) who found that body shape does not influence apparel fit satisfaction. The results shed light on the importance of body shape during the fit appraisal process.

Research limitations/implications

Despite the contribution, future research to improve the limitations should be addressed. First, although it was necessary to investigate a UK demographic to address research gaps, the finding of this study cannot be generalised to the entire UK female population nor to other areas of the world. Hence, future research should overcome this limitation by extending this study further to other countries, cultures and ethnicities.

Practical implications

The findings of the present study shed light on the role of body shape in determining satisfactory clothing fit and how females' fit experiences will differ depending on their body shape classification. Thus, fashion retailers should use this insight to better inform their promotional strategies, not only making them more inclusive but also to help assist this particular consumer segment with their clothing decisions based on their body shape.

Originality/value

The present study provides an in-depth understanding of how females with the same body shape experience garment fit, contributing novel findings to the literature through a mixed-method inquiry previously lacking in this area, with a UK demographic which has not previously been explored.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 27 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 February 2024

Eunice Benyah, Richard Acquaye and Raphael Kanyire Seidu

The innovativeness of dressmakers is a concern to respondents to satisfy their clothing needs. The purpose of this study is to determine the criteria that respondents use to judge…

Abstract

Purpose

The innovativeness of dressmakers is a concern to respondents to satisfy their clothing needs. The purpose of this study is to determine the criteria that respondents use to judge the quality of clothing and its influences on the innovative ability of dressmakers in the clothing manufacturing industries.

Design/methodology/approach

Three hundred and ninety-seven (397) respondents in the Takoradi Metropolis of Ghana filled out a questionnaire, and the results were used to compile data for the study. The sample size was calculated using Miller and Brewer formula. The data was analysed using structural equational modelling with the SmartPLS v.4 software.

Findings

The results showed that respondents are very interested in the calibre of clothing produced by their dressmakers. However, the study revealed that when evaluating the quality of a garment, respondents do not simply accept what has been sewn for them but also consider the performance, appearance, fit and shape of the garment. Findings revealed that there was a significant relationship between garment appearance quality (t = 2.605; p < 0.05), garment performance quality (t = 3.915; p < 0.05), garment shape quality (t = 6.248; p <0.05) and fashion innovations. Subsequently, the evaluation of garment fit quality by respondents revealed it does not bring about innovations (t = 1.310; p > 0.05).

Practical implications

The continuous evaluation of custom-made clothing from customers will go a long way towards highlighting the relative criteria they use to evaluate the innovation of dressmakers. This will help improve the creativity of the dressmakers since such feedback will help them understand and innovate their production skills to meet the preferences of customers.

Originality/value

The present study provides an in-depth understanding of how garment quality evaluation by customers influences the innovation of dressmakers in Takoradi, Ghana. The constructs were developed for the study to capture the appropriate data from customers for the study. This presents an evaluation criterion on four garment quality variables imperative for use or modification by other studies.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 July 2023

Yijie Zhang, Ling Ma, Ziyi Guo, Tao Li and Fengyuan Zou

Considering only two-dimensional (2D) ease allowance cannot fully reflect the three-dimensional (3D) relationship between the position of clothing and the human body. The purpose…

Abstract

Purpose

Considering only two-dimensional (2D) ease allowance cannot fully reflect the three-dimensional (3D) relationship between the position of clothing and the human body. The purpose of this paper is to propose a method with a 3D space vector and corresponding distance ease to characterize fitting garments and then used to construct personalized clothing for similar shape body.

Design/methodology/approach

Firstly, a 3D scanner was used to obtain mannequin and fitted garment data, and 17 layers of cross-sections of the upper body were extracted. Then, 37 space vectors and corresponding space angles on each cross-section were obtained with the original point. Secondly, the detailed distance ease between the mannequin and garment was constructed due to the difference between garment vectors and body vectors. Thirdly, the distance ease mathematical models were achieved and used to calculate distance ease on a similar shape body. Additionally, the fit garment is constructed, and the garment pattern is altered by the geometric pattern alteration method.

Findings

The results show that 3D space vectors can explain the relationship between body skin and garment surface of the upper body properly. The distance ease is modeled by mathematic expressions and successfully used to make a new garment to fit a similar shape body.

Originality/value

The proposed method of constructing garments based on distance ease and 3D space vectors can create a fitted garment for a similar shape body effectively and accurately. It is useful for the personalized garment design and suitable for the manufacturing process.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 March 2024

Arzu Şen Kılıç, Can Ünal and Ziynet Ondogan

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement…

Abstract

Purpose

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers’ patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method.

Findings

According to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production.

Originality/value

In the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 April 2023

Aditi Galada and Fatma Baytar

The purpose of the present study was to improve the fit of women’s bifurcated garments by developing an equation that can predict the crotch length accurately by using a few basic…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of the present study was to improve the fit of women’s bifurcated garments by developing an equation that can predict the crotch length accurately by using a few basic body measurements. This equation could provide a simple mass-customization approach to the design of bifurcated garments.

Design/methodology/approach

Demographic characteristics and easy-to-record body measurements available in the size USA database were used to predict the crotch length. Different methodologies including best subset regression, lasso regression and principal components regression were experimented with to identify the most important predictor variables and establish a relationship between the significant predictors and crotch length.

Findings

The lasso regression model provided the highest accuracy, required only five body dimensions and dealt with multicollinearity. The preliminary pattern preparation and garment fit tests indicated that by utilizing the proposed equation, patterns of customized garments could be successfully altered to match the crotch length of the customer, thereby, improving the precision and efficiency of the pattern making process.

Originality/value

Crotch length is a crucial measurement as it determines bifurcated garment comfort as well as aesthetic fit. The crotch length is usually estimated arbitrarily based on non-scientific methods while drafting patterns, and this increases the likelihood of dissatisfaction with the fit of the lower-body garments. The present study suggested an algorithm that could predict crotch length with 90.53% accuracy using the body dimensions height, hips, waist height, knee height and arm length.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 September 2023

Jihyun Oh and Sungmin Kim

This study aims to automate the process of converting grading patterns into parametric patterns using artificial intelligence and to objectively evaluate the fitness of the…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to automate the process of converting grading patterns into parametric patterns using artificial intelligence and to objectively evaluate the fitness of the converted patterns.

Design/methodology/approach

The developed system consists of a user interface that defines input data by importing multi-size grading patterns, an artificial neural network that learns the relationship between human body size and pattern geometry, and a module that converts training results into parametric patterns. In order to evaluate the fitness of the generated pattern, an objective fitting evaluation method using drape simulation was developed.

Findings

The body sizes of the wearer were input to the converted parametric pattern to generate a customized pattern. Resulting pattern showed a better fit than the grading pattern on the off-average body model.

Research limitations/implications

In this study, a method has been developed that enables the users with minimal pattern drafting knowledge to convert grading patterns into parametric patterns using artificial intelligence and drape simulation. The human body's symmetry and the physical properties of fabric were not considered.

Originality/value

The system developed in this study requires less data compared to existing methods that attempt to design clothing patterns with machine learning. In addition, it was possible to evaluate pattern fitness on various body models through drape simulation based fit evaluation process for the first time.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 March 2023

Annu Kumari and Noopur Anand

Body positivity movement empowered plus-size women globally to speak up boldly about their clothing needs. Retailers cannot satisfy this group with some classic style offerings…

Abstract

Purpose

Body positivity movement empowered plus-size women globally to speak up boldly about their clothing needs. Retailers cannot satisfy this group with some classic style offerings anymore. By taking clue from existing literature, this study aims to identify clothing preferences and problems related to ready-made plus-size clothing in India. Although many past literature pointed out about poorly fitted and size unavailability issues worldwide, very few of them addressed about clothing style preferences.

Design/methodology/approach

A self-administered close-ended questionnaire was used to answer a set of objectives. A pilot study with 40 plus-size women was carried out to check the reliability and validity of the instrument. Four hundred subject's data were gathered from six Indian cities with a purpose of varied geographical importance. Statistical tests like binomial distribution was used to analyze fit-related problems of 12 bodily sites such as shoulder, upper arm, lower arm, bust, waist, stomach, abdomen, hip, thigh, lower leg, armhole and elbow, and frequency charts were used to examine Likert scale data of sizing problems. The choices of 12 clothing styles were mapped through four factors which affect the purchasing decision of a plus-size woman.

Findings

Poor-fitted clothes at 10 body sites out of the 12 reflected about the fit aspect of plus-size clothing in India. Findings associated to sizing issues like unavailability of trendy clothes in appropriate sizes, which also adorn Indian curvy figure, shows synonymy to the worldwide researcher's findings related to sizing chaos. Classic silhouettes like Straight Indian kurti, A-line dresses and regular-fit trousers were majorly preferred by women. Hiding body bulges was mostly preferred while purchasing loose-fitted garments, and fitted garments were preferred only if these suits to the curvy body proportion. Appropriate fit and size availability are always a prime requisite for this class of women.

Originality/value

The outcomes of research will help Indian retailers/manufacturers to update their patterns in order to provide desired fit. In this lacuna of standard size chart, the study will add value in the development of Indian plus-size women's size chart. The factor mapping with clothing preferences will be useful to reduce rejections and inventories.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 27 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

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