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Article
Publication date: 15 February 2021

Chen Bao, Yongwei Miao, Bingfei Gu, Kaixuan Liu and Zhen Liu

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and interaction to design 3D garments and 2D patterns. The proposed scheme has the potential to satisfy the individual needs of fashion industry, such as precise fit evaluation of the garment, interactive style editing with ease allowance and constrained contour lines in fashion design.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors first construct a parametric pattern-making model for flat pattern design corresponding to the body dimensions. Then, the designing 2D patterns are stitched on a virtual 3D mannequin by performing a virtual try-on. If the customer is unsatisfied after the virtual try-on, the adjustable parameters (appearance parameters and fit parameters) can be adjusted using the 2D–3D linkage editing with hierarchical constrained contour lines, and the fit evaluation tool interactively provides the feedback.

Findings

The authors observed that the usability and efficiency of the existing garment pattern-making method simplifies the garment pattern-making process. The authors utilize an interactive garment parametric flat pattern-making model to generate an individualized garment flat pattern that effectively adjust and realize the local editing of the garment pattern-making. The 2D–3D linkage editing is then employed, which alters the size and shape of garment pattern for a precise human model fit of the 3D garment using hierarchical constrained contour lines. Various instances have validated the effectiveness of the proposed scheme, which can increase the reusability of the existing garment styles and improve the efficiency of fashion design.

Research limitations/implications

First, the authors do not consider the garment pattern-making design of sophisticated styles. Second, the authors do not directly consider complex garment shapes such as wrinkles, folds, multi-layer models and fabric physical properties.

Originality/value

The authors propose a pattern adjustment scheme that uses the 3D virtual try-on technology to avoid repetitions of reality-based fit tests and garment sample making in the designing process of clothing products. The proposed scheme provides interactive selections of garment patterns and sizes and renders modification tools for 3D garment designing and 2D garment pattern-making. The authors present the 2D–3D interactive linkage editing scheme for a custom-fit garment pattern based on the hierarchical constraint contour lines. The spatial relationship among the human body, pattern pieces and 3D garment model is adequately expressed, and the final design result of the garment pattern is obtained by constraint solving. Meanwhile, the tightness tension of different parts of the 3D garment is analyzed, and the fit and comfort of the garment are quantitatively evaluated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 25 January 2008

Jing‐Jing Fang and Yu Ding

This paper aims to present a flattening method for developing 2D basic patterns from 3D designed garments. The method incorporates the techniques of professional pattern

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Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to present a flattening method for developing 2D basic patterns from 3D designed garments. The method incorporates the techniques of professional pattern development for the purpose of pattern‐making automation. The aims of the flattening method are to improve the dressing suitability and to produce pleasing figures by reversing design procedures.

Design/methodology/approach

A flattening method is presented in this paper for developing 3D undevelopable NURBS surfaces in 2D. The automatic operation embeds the expertise of pattern makers by reducing total area differences between the designed garments in 3D styles and the two‐dimensional patterns. Basic pattern‐making invokes the boundary constraints which apply mesh alignments techniques.

Findings

The global area difference between the original 3D designs and the 2D‐developed pattern is controlled within 5 percent in order to reach the final outcomes of basic patterns, whose shapes are similar to the drawing patterns currently utilized in the industry.

Research limitations/implications

This study currently handles simple designs, such as basal designs, and can only flatten garments in symmetric styles. The direct flattening method is developed by this study. In addition, this study is supplemented by expert‐based knowledge, and it establishes basic boundary conditions for various garment patterns to increase the feasibility of flattening automation.

Originality/value

This study introduces the fundamental theories and methodologies used in the automatic making of basic patterns from 3D garment designs. It proposes a flattening method with pattern expertise embedded by real‐time approximations of the global area of the 3D undevelopable designs to the 2D patterns.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 September 2012

Sungmin Kim

The purpose of this paper is to explore the simulation of garments with various combinations of shape and size using a parametric pattern design method.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to explore the simulation of garments with various combinations of shape and size using a parametric pattern design method.

Design/methodology/approach

The approach of this study is to design garment patterns using a text‐based script language and assemble them on a deformable virtual body model to evaluate the appearance and fit of the resulting garment to facilitate the garment design process.

Findings

In this study, various garment patterns are designed parametrically by an expandable script language and simulated directly on a deformable body model.

Research limitations/implications

The size and shape of parametrically generated garment patterns are all different for each garment and therefore a full‐texture mapping technique cannot be applied.

Practical implications

This method may reduce the time required to evaluate the appearance and fit of bespoke garments by replacing the trial‐and‐error based traditional procedures.

Originality/value

The integration of a script‐based parametric pattern design method into the garment drape simulation system is one of the most useful applications for the practical garment design process.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 24 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 April 2017

Yan Hong, Pascal Bruniaux, Xianyi Zeng, Kaixuan Liu, Yan Chen and Min Dong

The purpose of this paper is to present a new collaborative design-based method for designing customized garments, aimed at the physically disabled people with scoliosis.

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Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to present a new collaborative design-based method for designing customized garments, aimed at the physically disabled people with scoliosis.

Design/methodology/approach

The proposed method is based on the virtual human model created using a 3D body scanner, permitting to simulate the consumer’s morphological shape with atypical physical deformations. Next, customized 2D and 3D virtual garment prototyping tools will be used to create products through interactions between the consumer, designer and pattern maker. The general principle of the proposed design method is based on the following sequence: design-display-evaluation-adjustment. After running the sequence for a number of times, the final design solution, which will be approved by both the designer and consumer, can be easily identified.

Findings

Design knowledge, which is already applied to normal body shapes successfully can be applied to 3D garment design using the concept which is based on collaborative design. Through this process, the classical 2D garment design knowledge, especially 2D patterns and design rules, can be modified and applied according to a normalized virtual garment sensory evaluation procedure quantitatively. This evaluation procedure, interactively performed by the designer and consumer, can permit to adapt the finished product to disabled people afflicted with severe scoliosis. The proposed method is also validated to be more advanced compared to 2D-to-3D virtual CAD design method, especially for atypical morphologies.

Originality/value

As a co-design method, 3D virtual draping and sensory evaluation can fully satisfy the interaction between the garment design technical space and perceptual space of the finished garments ensuring desired 3D garment fit effect by adjustment of technical parameters. 3D scanning technology is used to generate a complete digitalized 3D human model, permitting to extract the main features of body shapes without accurate measurements. As a knowledge-based design process, both the fashion design knowledge and the pattern making knowledge will be extracted to provide inspirations and references. Successful design solutions will be incorporated into the fashion design knowledge base in order to generate new design rules and enhance professional design knowledge.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 11 June 2018

Zhijia Dong, Gaoming Jiang, Guoming Huang and Honglian Cong

The virtual display of 3D garment is one of the most important features in a computer-aided garment design system. The purpose of this paper is to present a novel web-based 3D…

Abstract

Purpose

The virtual display of 3D garment is one of the most important features in a computer-aided garment design system. The purpose of this paper is to present a novel web-based 3D virtual display framework for the online design of warp-knitted seamless garment using the latest WebGL and HTML5 technologies.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on the feature-based parametric 3D human body model, the 3D model of skin-tight warp-knitted seamless garment is established using the geometric modeling method. By applying plane parameterization technology, the 3D garment model is then projected into corresponding 2D prototype pattern and a texture-mapping relationship is obtained. Finally, an online 3D virtual display application framework for warp-knitted seamless garment is implemented on modern WebGL-enabled web browsers using the latest WebGL and HTML5 technologies, which allow garment designers to globally access without installing any additional software or plugin.

Findings

Based on the 2D/3D model of warp-knitted seamless garment, an online 3D virtual display application running on modern WebGL-enabled web browser is implemented using the latest Javascript, WebGL and HTML5 technologies, which is proven to be an effective way for building the web-based 3D garment CAD systems.

Originality/value

This paper provides a parametric design method for warp-knitted seamless garment 2D/3D model, and web-based online virtual display of 3D warp-knitted seamless garment is implemented for the first time, which establishes the foundation for the web-based online computer-aided warp-knitted seamless garment design system.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 1998

C.H.M. Hardaker and G.J.W. Fozzard

States that there has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment. Although…

1504

Abstract

States that there has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment. Although the use of such technology is commonplace in many industries, the problems associated with the development of a suitable system for garment design have yet to be fully resolved. Envisages that such a system would provide the tools to develop a 3D simulation of a prototype garment which can be viewed from any angle prior to making a physical sample. This combined with the facility to develop the corresponding 2D pattern shapes and evaluate the fit of the virtual garment make the prospect of such a system extremely enticing. Considers the need for 3D working methods in garment design and the research issues involved in the development of a 3D computer aided design (CAD) system for garment design. The potential features of such a system are introduced in the context of a hypothetical system. Discusses the approach of a number of researchers in the field and considers future developments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 10 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 February 2021

Yeonghoon Kang, Jihyun Oh and Sungmin Kim

The development of a parametric garment pattern design system that utilizes anthropometric data for consumer-oriented garment pattern design.

Abstract

Purpose

The development of a parametric garment pattern design system that utilizes anthropometric data for consumer-oriented garment pattern design.

Design/methodology/approach

Action list and interactive user interface were developed to design flat garment patterns. Three-dimensional drape simulation was also implemented to verify the fit of patterns.

Findings

Patterns generated by the parametric design system developed in this study could be modified easily by providing appropriate anthropometric data regardless of their complexities.

Practical implications

Parametric pattern design system can reduce considerable amount of time and cost by replacing the trial-and-error based grading processes.

Social implications

Parametric pattern design system can generate customized garment patterns quickly and easily. Therefore, it is expected to contribute to the production of sustainable fashion and textile by reducing the loss of time and resource.

Originality/value

A versatile and comprehensive action list structure was implemented to manage the drawing actions of the user. Various numerical analysis methods were also used to maintain the geometrical validity of patterns.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 June 2010

In Hwan Sul

The purpose of this paper is to combine patterns from different garment sets and preview garment styles in 3D apparel design by giving sewing names to patterns and sewing edges.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to combine patterns from different garment sets and preview garment styles in 3D apparel design by giving sewing names to patterns and sewing edges.

Design/methodology/approach

A new rule for 3D garment sewing is made. Unlike conventional vertex number‐based method, patterns and their edges are given specific names. If two edges have a same edge name, they make a sewing line. Thus, patterns from different garments can be combined and draped with this method. Numbers of boundary mesh nodes were controlled using B‐Spline to combine sewing edges of different lengths.

Findings

It is found that by only assigning names to patterns and sewing edges, garment style can be previewed by substituting patterns.

Originality/value

Styles and details of garments can be previewed in 3D by mixing patterns of different garment sets like in 2D technical flat sketching. Even patterns with different edge lengths can be combined by controlling the pattern meshes using B‐Spline.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 22 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 26 July 2013

Xuyuan Tao and Pascal Bruniaux

The study in this article aims to focus on a novel design concept of virtual 3D garment which is realized with the help of traditional patternmaking methodology and the CAD…

1197

Abstract

Purpose

The study in this article aims to focus on a novel design concept of virtual 3D garment which is realized with the help of traditional patternmaking methodology and the CAD softwares in order to directly conceive the virtual clothing on a mannequin morphotype in cyberspace in consideration of the ease allowance between the body shape and the garment.

Design/methodology/approach

The method of acquisition of 3D human body was explained at first. Then the process of creation of garment 3D model associated with the draping technique was presented. The superposition of patterns from the 3D modeling and the traditional method used in industries was done in order to visualize the right results. At last, the dynamic validation of the garment was carried out in order to analyze the fitting results of try‐on simulation.

Findings

The 3D modeling technique method based on the draping technique shows that the garment fits perfectly to the body shape of the wearer.

Social implications

For the ready‐to‐wear manufacture, this method can be also involved on the parametric mannequin in order to reduce the lifetime of development by eliminating the process of pattern grading in the future.

Originality/value

The originality of this article comes from the combination of the traditional draping technique with the advanced CAD softwares in consideration of the fitting and draping of the garment. This concept is used not only in the context of mass customized product but also in mass production for the ready‐to‐wear apparel industries. The patterns are directly adjusted in 3D and can immediately be tried on in 3D simulation. As a result, the process in 2D patternmaking design can be eliminated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 25 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2016

Jaewoong Lee and InHwan Sul

As an extended work of the previous paper (Sul, 2010), this paper provides a guideline information for an anonymous garment pattern in sewing process. The purpose of this paper is…

Abstract

Purpose

As an extended work of the previous paper (Sul, 2010), this paper provides a guideline information for an anonymous garment pattern in sewing process. The purpose of this paper is to first, provide garment pattern database. By simply taking pictures of garment patterns, the shape database is constructed. Once the shape database is prepared, data retrieval can be done by image indexing, i.e., simply inserting garment pattern boundary shape again to the database. Using shock graph methodology, the pattern sets used for database preparation can be exactly retrieved. Second, to find the nearest shape of a given input pattern shape in the database. If the input garment pattern shape does not exist in the database, the shape matching algorithm provides the next similar pattern data. The user, who is assumed to be non-expert in garment sewing process, can easily predict the position and combination information of various patterns.

Design/methodology/approach

Image processing is used to construct the garment pattern shape database. The boundary shapes are extracted from the photographs of garment patterns and their shape recognition information, especially shock graph, is also recorded for later pattern data retrieval.

Findings

Using the image processing technique, garment patterns can be converted to electronic format easily. Also the prepared pattern database can be used for finding the nearest shape of an additional given input garment pattern. Patterns with irregular shapes were retrieved easily, while those with a simple shape, such as rectangle, showed a little erroneous result.

Originality/value

Shape recognition has been adopted in various industrial areas, except for garment sewing process. Using the provided methodology, garment pattern shapes can be easily saved and retrieved only by taking pictures of them.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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