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Article
Publication date: 3 June 2024

Duygu Yavuzkasap Ayakta, Şule Altun Kurtoğlu and Demet Yilmaz

Wool fiber is accepted as one of the natural and renewable sources and has been used in the apparel and textile industry since ancient times. However, wool fiber has the highest…

Abstract

Purpose

Wool fiber is accepted as one of the natural and renewable sources and has been used in the apparel and textile industry since ancient times. However, wool fiber has the highest global warming potential value among conventional fibres due to its high land use and high methane gas generation. This study aimed to recycle the wool fabric wastes and also to create a mini eco-collection by using the produced yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

This manuscript aimed to evaluate the fabric wastes of a woolen fabric producer company. Fabric wastes were opened with two different opening systems and fiber properties were determined. First, conventional ring yarns were produced in the company’s own spinning mill by mixing the opened fibres with the long fiber wastes of the company. In addition, opening wastes were mixed with different fibres (polyester, long wool waste, and Tencel fibres) between 25% and 70% in the short-staple yarn spinning mill and used in the production of conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns. Most of the yarns contained waste fibres at 50%. Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained and fabric properties were examined. Also, a fabric collection was created. A life cycle assessment (LCA) was made for one of the selected yarns.

Findings

At the end of the study, it was determined that it was possible to produce yarn and fabric samples from fiber blends containing high waste fiber ratios beyond 50%. All the woven fabric samples produced from conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns gave higher breaking, tearing and stitch slip strength values in the weft and warp direction than limit quality values of the company. In addition, abrasion resistance and WIRA steam stability properties of the fabric samples were also sufficient. Environmental analysis of the recycling of the wastes showed a possible decrease of about 9940034.3 kg CO2e per year in the global warming potential. In addition, fiber raw material expenses reduced yarn production cost about 50% in case of opened fabric waste usage. However, due to insufficient pilling resistance results, it was decided to evaluate the woven fabrics for the product groups such as shawls and blankets, where pilling resistance is less sought.

Originality/value

The original aspects of the article can be summarized under two headings. First, there are limited studies on the evaluation of wool wastes compared to cotton and polyester fibres and the number of samples examined was limited. However, this study was quite comprehensive in terms of opening type (rag and tearing), spinning systems (long and short spinning processes), fiber blends (waste 100% and blends with polyester, long wool waste and Tencel fibres) and yarn counts (coarser and finer). Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained using different colour combinations and weave types. All processes from fabric waste to product production were followed and evaluated. Life cycle assessment (LCA) and cost analysis was also done. The second unique aspect is that the problem of a real wool company was handled by taking the waste of the woolen company and a collection was created for the customer group of the company. Production was made under real production conditions. Therefore, this study will provide important findings to the research field about recycling, sustainability etc.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 November 2022

Ashis Mitra

The present study aims to demonstrate the application of newly developed combinative distance-based assessment (CODAS) approach for grading and selection of Tossa jute fibres…

Abstract

Purpose

The present study aims to demonstrate the application of newly developed combinative distance-based assessment (CODAS) approach for grading and selection of Tossa jute fibres, which possesses some unique features uncommon to other variants of multi-criteria decision-making (MCDM) method.

Design/methodology/approach

The CODAS method was used in this study to rank/grade ten candidate lots of Tossa fibres on the basis of six apposite jute fibre properties, namely, fibre defect, root content, fineness, strength, colour and density. These six fibre properties were considered as the six decision criteria, here, and they were assigned weights as determined previously by an earlier researcher using analytic hierarchy process. The grading of jute fibres was done based on a comprehensive single index known as the assessment scores (Hi), in descending order of magnitude.

Findings

Among the 10 Tossa jute lots, T2 was ranked 1 (top grade) because of the highest assessment score of 6.887, followed by T1 with Rank 2 (assessment score 1.830). Because of the least assessment score of −2.795, the candidate lot T4 was considered as the worst, and hence ranked 10. The overall ranking pattern given by the CODAS method was similar to the TOPSIS approach done by Ghosh and Das (2013). This study was supported by various sensitivity analyses to judge the efficacy of the present approach. No occurrence of rank reversal during the sensitivity analyses obviously corroborates the robustness and stability of the CODAS method.

Practical implications

Jute pricing is fixed solely by the quality for which grading of fibre is prerequisite. The traditional “Hand and Eye” method or Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) system for jute grading is basically subjective assessment and need domain expertise. MCDM is reported as the most viable solution which gives due importance to the fibre parameters while grading the fibres based on a single index. The present study demonstrates the maiden application of CODAS to address the fibre grading problems for jute industries. This approach can also be extended to solve other decision problems of textile industry, in general.

Originality/value

CODAS is a recently developed exponent of MCDM. Uniqueness of the present study lies in the fact that this is the first ever application of CODAS in the domain of textile industry, in general, and jute industry, in particular. CODAS approach is very simple involving a few simple mathematical equations yet a potent tool of decision-making. This method possesses some features uncommon in other variants of MCDM. Moreover, the efficacy of CODAS method is investigated through various sensitivity analyses, which has been ignored in the earlier approaches.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 31 July 2024

Luzuko Tekeni and Reinhardt A. Botha

As home users are increasingly responsible for securing their computing devices and home networks, there is a growing need to develop interventions to assist them in protecting…

Abstract

Purpose

As home users are increasingly responsible for securing their computing devices and home networks, there is a growing need to develop interventions to assist them in protecting their home networking devices, which are vulnerable to attack. To this end, this paper aims to examine the motivating factors that drive South African fibre users to protect their home networking devices.

Design/methodology/approach

Using the protection motivation theory as the primary framework, a measurement instrument comprising 53 questionnaire items was developed to measure 13 constructs. The study collected empirical data from a sample of 392 South African home fibre users and evaluated the research model using structural equation modelling.

Findings

The evaluation showed a good fit, with 12 out of 15 predicted hypotheses being accepted for the final research model, contributing to the understanding of the factors that motivate home users to protect their home networking devices.

Originality/value

To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this study is the first to model the factors that drive South African home fibre users to protect their home networking devices. Knowing these factors could help home internet service providers and security software vendors of home products to develop security interventions that could assist home fibre users to secure their home networking devices.

Details

Information & Computer Security, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2056-4961

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 13 August 2024

Sofien Benltoufa, Hind Algamdy, Adel Ghith, Faten Fayala and Lubos Hes

The paper aims to investigate the dynamic measurement of the water vapour resistance. The water vapour diffusion kinetics depends on the fibre’s material. So, water vapour…

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to investigate the dynamic measurement of the water vapour resistance. The water vapour diffusion kinetics depends on the fibre’s material. So, water vapour resistance measurement times till the equilibrium steady state can vary in the case of natural fibres compared to synthetic fibres. Devices for determining water vapour resistance according to the ISO 11092 standard allow static values to be measured.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study to investigate the dynamic of the water vapour resistance, a new parameter named “holding period” was introduced and defined as the time from sample placement on the measuring head until the measuring process begins. The holding period was varied as 0, 30, 60, 90, 120, 180, 240 and 300 s. Wool and cotton knitted fabrics were tested as natural fibres and compared to 100% polyester and 90% polyester/10% elastane as synthetic fibres. Measurements were conducted under both air velocities of 1 and 2 m/s. The experimental test data were statistically analysed based on ANOVA and four-in-one residual plots.

Findings

Statistical analysis of experimental tests shows that the holding period affects water vapour resistance in both air velocities of 1 and 2 m/s and on the measured values in the case of hydrophilic fibres.

Research limitations/implications

The study of the dynamic relative water vapour permeability of natural and synthetic is an important area of interest for future research.

Practical implications

It is recommended to hold the samples on the top of the head measurement before starting the test.

Originality/value

Following the ISO 11092 standard, the static values of the water vapour resistance were measured without considering the dynamic behaviour of the water vapour diffusion through the textile fabrics. This paper fulfils an experimental dynamic measurement of the water vapour resistance.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 25 June 2024

Luis Manica

The purpose of this paper is to examine the factors that may have contributed to different levels of very high-capacity network (VHCN) coverage, with a particular focus on the…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to examine the factors that may have contributed to different levels of very high-capacity network (VHCN) coverage, with a particular focus on the role of regulation and State aid.

Design/methodology/approach

A comparative empirical study based on multiple case studies was conducted in France, Portugal, Spain and the UK.

Findings

Although France, Portugal and Spain initially adopted similar regulatory strategies for VHCN deployment, the outcomes differed significantly. The UK, with a more demanding regulation, achieved a residual coverage. This study highlights the importance of the regulatory approach to VHCN access in balancing private and public investment and emphasizes the importance of State aid in the policy agenda for nationwide VHCN deployment projects.

Research limitations/implications

Research on complex phenomena, such as the impact of regulation on investment or the effectiveness of State aid procedures, may focus on specific events to the detriment of others, which could bias the results.

Practical implications

The findings of this study provide insights for policymakers involved in State aid decisions and regulators by understanding the importance of timely State aid interventions, efficient governance and the impact of regulation on investment incentives.

Originality/value

This paper extends the literature on the impact of regulation on investment incentives and State aid as a tool to complement private investment for VHCN deployment through in-depth case studies.

Details

Digital Policy, Regulation and Governance, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2398-5038

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 May 2024

Jazmin Leticia Tobías-Espinoza, Carlos Abel Amaya-Guerra, Martha Graciela Ruíz-Gutiérrez, Miguel Ángel Sánchez-Madrigal, David Neder-Suárez and Armando Quintero-Ramos

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effects of the addition of flaxseed and amaranth at different proportions on the hydration kinetics, colour and sensory qualities of…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effects of the addition of flaxseed and amaranth at different proportions on the hydration kinetics, colour and sensory qualities of instant-extruded cereals, important aspects related to the functionality and acceptability of food products.

Design/methodology/approach

Instant-extruded cereals were made with different proportions of flaxseed (6.6–9.3%), amaranth (18.7–33.1%), and maize grits (63.8–67.3%); and characteristics such as hydration kinetics, colour parameters and sensory properties were evaluated.

Findings

The kinetics of milk absorption showed that the extruded cereals maintained their texture and crispness for a sufficiently long time (≤20 min). The L*, a* and chroma* values of the extruded cereals were significantly affected (p < 0.05) by the flaxseed content. Sensory evaluation showed that all the extrudates had good acceptance in terms of flavour, texture, and colour attributes in relation to high-fibre commercial cereals; according to the preference test, they were as acceptable as commercial extruded cereals when consumed with milk. The addition of high-fibre and protein-containing grains such as flaxseed (8.6–9.3%) and amaranth (18.7–22.9%) in instant-extruded cereals allowed the production of products with acceptable physical and sensory characteristics.

Originality/value

In this study a novel instant-extruded cereal with flaxseed and amaranth was developed. The evaluation of the physical and sensory characteristics of instant-extruded cereals is essential to guarantee consumer acceptability, especially if functional ingredients with a high content of dietary fibre and protein are added.

Details

British Food Journal, vol. 126 no. 7
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0007-070X

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 May 2024

Gizem Karakan Günaydın, Erhan Kenan Çeven and Nejla Çeven

The paper aims to provide an investigation about the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to provide an investigation about the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper evaluates the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics. Twill drapery fabrics with 18 Tex linen warp yarn where two types of weft yarns were utilized respectively with the order of “A” yarn and “B” yarn. 58 Tex Lyocell Linen blended first weft yarn (A yarn) was kept constant and the second weft yarn (B yarn) varied in different yarn structures and yarn count. Thermal comfort properties such as thermal conductivity, thermal resistivity, thermal absorptivity, fabric thickness were measured by means of Alambeta device. Correlation matrix between the thermal properties was also displayed. Air permeability results were obtained by using SDL Atlas Digital Air Permeability Tester Model M 021 A. One way analysis of variance (ANOVA) test was performed in order to investigate the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Findings

In this paper, weft yarn type was found as a significant factor on some of the thermal comfort properties such as thermal conductivity, thermal resistivity, thermal absorptivity, fabric thickness and on the air permeability properties.

Originality/value

There are limited works related to evaluation of some thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 9 July 2024

Martina Glogar and Sanja Ercegovic Razic

In the field of research on the application of digital printing to textile materials, there are still many research issues that arise from the very demanding interaction of…

Abstract

Purpose

In the field of research on the application of digital printing to textile materials, there are still many research issues that arise from the very demanding interaction of digital printing technology and the complex, heterogeneous surface system of textile materials. This is precisely why the area of pre-treatment of textile materials is in need of research, and the purpose of this research was to establish the level of influence of physical and chemical activation of the textile surface with plasma and the possibility of improving the quality of the print and colour reproduction.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper deals with the possibility of applying argon and oxygen cold low-pressure plasma in the processing of cellulose knitted fabrics, with the aim of improving the quality of the print and colour reproduction in digital pigment inkjet printing. The selected raw material samples were 100% raw cotton and lyocell. After plasma treatment, the samples were printed by digital ink jet printing with water-based pigment printing ink. An analysis of the micromorphological structure of untreated and plasma-treated samples before and after printing was carried out, and a comparative analysis of the colour of the printed elements was carried out depending on the pre-treatment.

Findings

The conducted research showed a positive influence of plasma pre-treatment on the coverage of the fibre surface with pigments, the uniformity of pigment distribution along the fibre surface and the uniformity of the distribution of the polymeric binder layer. This has a positive effect on colour reproduction. Also, certain improvements in colourfastness to washing were obtained.

Research limitations/implications

Considering the complexity of the topic, although exhaustive, this research is not sufficient in itself, but opens up new questions and gives ideas for further research that must be carried out in this area.

Practical implications

Also, this kind of research contributes to the possibility of adopting the idea of industrial plasma transformation, as an ecologically sustainable functionalisation of textiles, which has not yet been established.

Originality/value

This research is certainly a contribution to the establishment of acceptable textile pre-treatment methods in the field of digital printing, as one of the key quality factors in digital textile printing (DTP). Considering the still large number of obstacles and unanswered questions encountered in the field of digital printing on textiles, this kind of research is a strong contribution to the understanding of the fundamental mechanisms of the complex interaction between printing ink and textile.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 3 July 2024

Karthikeyan Marappan, M.P. Jenarthanan, Ghousiya Begum K and Venkatesan Moorthy

This paper aims to find the effective 3D printing process parameters based on mechanical characteristics such as tensile strength and hardness of poly lactic acid (PLA)/carbon…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to find the effective 3D printing process parameters based on mechanical characteristics such as tensile strength and hardness of poly lactic acid (PLA)/carbon fibre composites (CF-PLA) by implementing intelligent frameworks.

Design/methodology/approach

The experiment trials are conducted based on design of experiments (DoE) using Taguchi L9 orthogonal array with three factors (speed, infill % and pattern type) and three levels. The factors have been optimized by solving the regression equation which is obtained from analysis of variance (ANOVA). The contour plots are generated by response surface methodology (RSM). The influencing parameters are found by using Box–Behnken design. The second order response surface model demonstrated the optimal combination of input parameters for higher tensile strength and hardness.

Findings

The influencing parameters are found by using Box–Behnken design. The second order response surface model demonstrated the optimal combination of input parameters for higher tensile strength and hardness. The results obtained from RSM are also confirmed by implementing the machine learning classifiers, such as logistic regression, ridge classifier, random forest, K nearest neighbour and support vector classifier (SVC). The results show that the SVC can predict the optimized process parameters with an accuracy of 95.65%.

Originality/value

3D printing parameters which are considered in this work such as pattern types for PLA/CF-PLA composites based on intelligent frameworks has not been attempted previously.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 6 August 2024

Edwin Cheruiyot Kosgey, Krishnan Kanny and Festus Maina Mwangi

This study aims to understand how the facesheet size, orientation and core size influence the analytical failure mechanism mode of glass fibre reinforced polymer (GFRP)/polyvinyl…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to understand how the facesheet size, orientation and core size influence the analytical failure mechanism mode of glass fibre reinforced polymer (GFRP)/polyvinyl chloride (PVC) sandwich structures subjected to three-point bending. The purpose of this study was to develop failure-mode map of GFRP/PVC sandwich structures. Sandwich structures with different facesheet and core thicknesses were used to develop the failure map.

Design/methodology/approach

The sandwich structure and facesheet were fabricated using a vacuum-assisted resin infusion method with core sizes of 10, 15 and 20 mm and facesheet thicknesses of 1.5 and 3 mm and were arranged in three different orientations: angle-ply, cross-ply and quasi-isotropic. The key failure modes that occur in sandwich structures were used to predict possible failures in the developed material. Analytical equations were used in MATLAB for each observed failure mode. The probable failure modes, namely, face yielding, core shear and indentation equations, were used to construct the failure maps and were compared with the experimental data.

Findings

The boundary of the two failure modes shifts with changes in the facesheet and core thicknesses. The theoretical stiffness of sandwich panels was higher than the experimental stiffness. Based on strength-to-weight ratio, specimens E10-4, A15-8 and E20-8 exhibited the best optimum values owing to their shorter distance to the boundary lines.

Originality/value

In this study, a failure map was used to predict the possible failure modes for different GFRP facesheet orientations and thicknesses and PVC core thickness sandwich structures. Little is known about the prediction of the failure modes of unidirectional GFRP arranged in different orientations and thicknesses and PVC core thicknesses for sandwich structures. Few studies have used failure mode maps with unidirectional GFRP oriented in angle-ply, cross-ply and quasi-isotropic directions as a facesheet for sandwich structures compared to bidirectional mats. This study can serve as a guide for the correct selection of materials during the design process of sandwich structures.

Details

World Journal of Engineering, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1708-5284

Keywords

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