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Study on fabric compression under seam vis a vis quantitative measurement of seam boldness and thread consumption for lockstitch 301

Md Vaseem Chavhan (Department of Textile Technology, Vignan’s Foundation for Science Technology and Research, Guntur, India)
Mandapati Ramesh Naidu (Vignan’s Foundation for Science Technology and Research, Guntur, India)

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

ISSN: 1560-6074

Article publication date: 18 November 2020

Issue publication date: 31 May 2021

34

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to develop at sewing thread during the seam formation may lead to the compression of fabric under seam. In the present study, the model has been proposed to predict the seam compression and calculation of seam boldness, as well as thread consumption by considering seam compression.

Design/methodology/approach

The effect of sewing parameters on the fabric compression at the seam (Cf) for fabrics of varying bulk density was studied by the Taguchi method and also the multilinear regression equation is obtained to predict seam compression by considering these parameters. The framework has been set as per the single view metrology approach to measuring structural seam boldness (Bs). One of the basic geometrical models (Ghosh and Chavhan, 2014) for the prediction of thread consumption at lock stitch has been modified by considering fabric compression at the seam (Cf).

Findings

The multilinear regression model has been proposed which can predict the compression under seam using easily measurable fabric parameters and stitch density. The seam boldness is successfully calculated quantitatively using the proposed formula with a good correlation with the seam boldness rated subjectively. The thread consumption estimation from the proposed approach was found to be more accurate.

Originality/value

The compression under seam is found out using easily measurable parameters; fabric thickness, fabric weight and stitch density from the proposed model. The attempt has been made to calculate seam boldness quantitatively and the new approach to find out thread consumption by considering the seam compression has been proposed.

Keywords

Citation

Chavhan, M.V. and Naidu, M.R. (2021), "Study on fabric compression under seam vis a vis quantitative measurement of seam boldness and thread consumption for lockstitch 301", Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, Vol. 25 No. 2, pp. 89-104. https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-06-2020-0071

Publisher

:

Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2020, Emerald Publishing Limited

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