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Article
Publication date: 1 October 2005

H. Lin, P.M. Taylor and S.J. Bull

This paper presents an experimental study of the influence of variables such as strain rate, the number of fabric plies, the type of fabric, the kinds of fibre and the…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper presents an experimental study of the influence of variables such as strain rate, the number of fabric plies, the type of fabric, the kinds of fibre and the shape of indenter on the indentation of fabric under differently shaped pinch gripper.

Design/methodology/approach

This experimental study will be approached from three different angles. It will look into an indenter pressing a sample with a much larger size, which is important in practice in the world of grasping by a pinch gripper. It will research a flat indenter, but also an indenter with a curved surface and will investigate fabric compression particularly with regard to the differences between single‐layer and multi‐layer stacks.

Findings

The type of fabric architecture and the kind of fibre have been proven to be important for the indentation. Even more important is the indenter geometry. Evidence collected to date suggests that the grasping action is more sensitive to indenter geometry. This leads to three possible approaches: close regulation of the materials and processes, handling processes to change in the material properties, and thirdly, intelligent systems which can learn from and adapt to each situation.

Research limitations/implications

This study suggests that a picking up operation should change in the material properties, that is, the operation should be controlled by using fabric characteristics as the control information in an intelligent environment.

Originality/value

Previous work on compression has been concentrated on an indenter with a size identical to a specimen, this study will look into an indenter pressing a sample with a much larger size. On compression, previous work has focused on single‐layer fabric compression by a flat indenter, but this research will not only research a flat indenter and single layers, but also an indenter with a curved surface, and multi‐layer stacks.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 17 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 November 2020

Md Vaseem Chavhan and Mandapati Ramesh Naidu

This paper aims to develop at sewing thread during the seam formation may lead to the compression of fabric under seam. In the present study, the model has been proposed…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to develop at sewing thread during the seam formation may lead to the compression of fabric under seam. In the present study, the model has been proposed to predict the seam compression and calculation of seam boldness, as well as thread consumption by considering seam compression.

Design/methodology/approach

The effect of sewing parameters on the fabric compression at the seam (Cf) for fabrics of varying bulk density was studied by the Taguchi method and also the multilinear regression equation is obtained to predict seam compression by considering these parameters. The framework has been set as per the single view metrology approach to measuring structural seam boldness (Bs). One of the basic geometrical models (Ghosh and Chavhan, 2014) for the prediction of thread consumption at lock stitch has been modified by considering fabric compression at the seam (Cf).

Findings

The multilinear regression model has been proposed which can predict the compression under seam using easily measurable fabric parameters and stitch density. The seam boldness is successfully calculated quantitatively using the proposed formula with a good correlation with the seam boldness rated subjectively. The thread consumption estimation from the proposed approach was found to be more accurate.

Originality/value

The compression under seam is found out using easily measurable parameters; fabric thickness, fabric weight and stitch density from the proposed model. The attempt has been made to calculate seam boldness quantitatively and the new approach to find out thread consumption by considering the seam compression has been proposed.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 25 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 January 1992

A.L. Price and T.G. Clapp

Understanding the behaviour of fabric in bulk form is necessary for the optimum design of automated material handling systems. Considers the bulk behaviour of stacks of…

Abstract

Understanding the behaviour of fabric in bulk form is necessary for the optimum design of automated material handling systems. Considers the bulk behaviour of stacks of cut fabric parts; the objective is to predict the bulk behaviour of stacks under compression. Uses a single ply fabric compression model developed by De Jong, Snaith and Michie to develop a compression model for stacked fabric.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 4 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 March 2000

P.M. Taylor and D.M. Pollet

A swinging pendulum is arranged to impact and bounce from a fabric sample. The energy losses during impact compression are calculated from the changes in potential energy…

Abstract

A swinging pendulum is arranged to impact and bounce from a fabric sample. The energy losses during impact compression are calculated from the changes in potential energy of the pendulum after allowing for other losses. It is found that the compression energy loss, calculated from the static characteristics, gives only a rough guide to the impact compression losses, so other factors must be considered. Further experimental work is proposed to determine more precisely the contribution of the fabric properties to these differences in the characteristics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 12 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 March 2018

Brett Ellis, Erin Kirkpatrick, Sonal Kothari Phan, Stacy Imler and Haskell Beckham

Stretch fabrics are employed to create compression in garments for medical, sports, and fitness applications. Although potential correlations between wearing compression

Abstract

Purpose

Stretch fabrics are employed to create compression in garments for medical, sports, and fitness applications. Although potential correlations between wearing compression garments and physiological or performance metrics have been studied, such correlations require knowledge of the actual compression caused by garments. The purpose of this paper is to demonstrate, compare, and contrast different methods for measuring compression delivered by an exemplar compression garment.

Design/methodology/approach

The exemplar compression garment is a plain jersey knit maternity band. The compression delivered by this garment was determined via three different methods – Tekscan pressure mapping system, Hohenstein Measurement System (HOSY), and a fabric-based analytical model employing uniaxial fabric tensile data.

Findings

HOSY and the fabric-based model, assuming a circular cross section for the garment, provided comparable results for compression versus garment height. However, these methods did not capture the varying compression delivered at different transverse locations when the subject was noncircular in cross section. Assuming an elliptical cross section, the fabric-based model predicted results that were comparable to those measured by the Tekscan system: for example, compressions were approximately 130-160 percent greater at the hip, and approximately 60-100 percent lower at the posterior, than HOSY revealed. Further, the Tekscan system allows the effect of movement on compression to be captured.

Originality/value

This paper compares and contrasts three compression measurement methods and demonstrates the importance of angular position and height dependencies. Further, the fabric-based model is presented as a tool to assist design of compression garments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 October 2010

Yongrong Wang, Peihua Zhang, Xunwei Feng and Yuan Yao

The paper aims to develop a system and measuring method for investigating the dynamic pressure behavior of compression garments.

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to develop a system and measuring method for investigating the dynamic pressure behavior of compression garments.

Design/methodology/approach

The dynamic pressure behavior measurement, realized by use of the self‐designed system, is a direct measuring method, which is based on a rigid hemisphere with five pressure sensors distributed on its surface. The dynamic pressure is measured over time under the process of fabric 3D deformation. The pressure distributions at the basic five sites are accepted as the measuring results. The dynamic stiffness index can be calculated from dynamic pressure profile and 3D deformation of compression garments.

Findings

The measuring system records the pressure‐time curve and pressure‐deformation curve. The dynamic pressure stiffness index expresses the change in pressure owing to the change in elongation of compression fabrics. The pressure measuring system and the index provide much information in the field of compression garment assessment.

Research limitations/implications

Another characteristic that was not mentioned but important is pressure hysteresis, which can give the information about pressure decay when fabrics undergoing repeated stretch and relaxation. The influence factors of hysteresis and its role in compression garments also requires further research.

Originality/value

To determine and characterize the dynamic pressure behavior of compression garment under 3D deformation, this study develops a measuring system and defines a new index. The measuring system can be used in scientific research institutes and factories, contribute to optimize process parameters and quality control of compression garment.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 22 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 April 2002

A. Mukhopadyhay, A.K. Dash and V.K. Kothari

The effect of pick density, constituent filament fineness and heat‐setting on the fabric thickness and compressional properties have been studied before and after…

Abstract

The effect of pick density, constituent filament fineness and heat‐setting on the fabric thickness and compressional properties have been studied before and after laundering. With the increase in pick density fabric thickness, compression and compressibility increases up to a certain extent. Coarser filament textured yarn fabric have higher thickness, compression and compressibility than that of finer filament textured yarn fabrics. Heat‐set fabrics possess higher thickness, compression and compressibility than the grey textured yarn fabrics. However, fabric compressional recovery and resiliency are mainly influenced by the fabric pick density rather than the effect of heat‐setting and filament fineness of constituent textured yarns. On laundering, fabric thickness, compression and compressibility improve particularly for the fabric of lower pick density. The effect of laundering is marginal on fabric compressional recovery and resiliency.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 14 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 June 2002

Ron Postle

The importance of fabric biaxial extension, in‐plane compression, shear and bending properties, have been widely recognised by textile scientists and engineers for the…

1159

Abstract

The importance of fabric biaxial extension, in‐plane compression, shear and bending properties, have been widely recognised by textile scientists and engineers for the evaluation of the three‐dimensional formability and drape of textile materials in apparel products and three‐dimensional preforms. In contrast to woven fabrics where bending and shear properties determine the fabric formability, knitted fabrics have very high formability as a direct result of their easy biaxial extension properties. This ability to form three‐dimensional shapes using the biaxial extensibility of knitted structures enables these knitted textile materials to be utilised for a wide variety of close fitting apparel garments and shaped composite preforms. Some representative biaxial extension curves for the plain knitted structure are described in this paper. These curves illustrate an unusual shape for the load‐extension curve of a textile material arising from the pre‐tension or pre‐stress. The pre‐stress yields an initial high tensile modulus for the structure in contrast to the very low initial modulus characteristic of apparel textiles. Accordingly, for knitted textile materials, it is shown how biaxial extension of the fabric introduces a fabric pre‐stress to maximise the three‐dimensional fabric formability especially when subjected to transverse compression by the resin or matrix in a composite material. Typical uniaxial and biaxial tensile stress–strain curves for knitted fabrics are compared.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 14 no. 3/4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 July 2020

Desalegn Atalie and Gideon Kipchirchir Rotich

For cloths having direct contact with the skin, comfort properties are a priority than the physical and mechanical properties. Innerwear clothes should induce pleasant…

Abstract

Purpose

For cloths having direct contact with the skin, comfort properties are a priority than the physical and mechanical properties. Innerwear clothes should induce pleasant feelings because they have a direct influence on human psychological satisfaction, health and work efficiency. The purpose of this study is to investigate the impact of cotton fiber parameters on the sensorial comfort of woven fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

Four types of cotton fiber with different fineness, mean length, uniformity index, short fiber content, strength and elongation were used to develop yarns used to weave fabric samples. Kawabata evaluation system (KES) was used to analyze the fabrics’ sensorial comfort.

Findings

Results showed that cotton fiber parameters have a significant effect on surface friction and roughness properties. Low stress tensile, tensile resilience and tensile strain properties were affected by fiber micronaire, mean length, uniformity index, short fiber content, fiber strength and elongation. However, fabric shear, bending and compression properties were least dependent on fiber parameters. The correlation of the dependent variable and the independent variable was also statistically analyzed and reported. From the results, it was shown that cotton fiber parameters play a significant role in woven fabrics’ sensorial comfort.

Originality/value

The cloths that are in contact with the skin can be developed using the results of these studies to feel pleasant. This will, in turn, have a direct effect on the customer's psychological satisfaction, health and work performance.

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2004

H. Lin, P.M. Taylor and S.J. Bull

Several pick‐up devices have been proposed and invented for automated garment handling but a scientific understanding of picking up operation is incomplete. This paper is…

Abstract

Several pick‐up devices have been proposed and invented for automated garment handling but a scientific understanding of picking up operation is incomplete. This paper is an extension of earlier studies into modelling the interaction of the performance of pinch gripper and the properties of flexible material (foam). Here, the relationship between the performance of pinch gripper (size and shape), external load, deformation and the properties fabric is investigated. The distributions of stress and strain within a fabric under differently shaped grippers (flat and curved) are revealed. The main factors affecting the first step of picking up action‐two pegs pushing down on the top of fabric are identified. Experiments have been carried out on single‐ and multi‐layer fabrics, and the accuracy of the models is demonstrated through comparison of the predicted results with the experimental data. This study is aimed towards optimisation of design of a gripper and providing knowledge for an intelligent grasping system of fabric handling.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 16 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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