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RARELY has its sense of timing and pragmatic approach to current problems been better employed by the Industrial Society than in organizing a two‐day conference within four days…
Abstract
RARELY has its sense of timing and pragmatic approach to current problems been better employed by the Industrial Society than in organizing a two‐day conference within four days of Britain's entry into the European Economic Community. The aim behind ‘Into Europe—People at Work’ was badly needed. No major policy has been so bedevilled by confusion and uncertainty as our entry, greeted with a fanfare by some and lamented by a dirge from others.
Marie‐Eve Faust, Serge Carrier and Pierre Baptist
To demonstrate that the current weaknesses in women's ready‐to‐wear size standardization charts originate not only in the obsolescence of the base data but also in the…
Abstract
Purpose
To demonstrate that the current weaknesses in women's ready‐to‐wear size standardization charts originate not only in the obsolescence of the base data but also in the non‐adherence of order initiators to the suggested standard sizes.
Design/methodology/approach
Trouser manufacturers were selected in such a way as to cover the full price‐range spectrum. They provided their waist standard measurements and confirmed that they use the same measurements for all product lines. In‐store measurements were done. Garments were chosen at random from the selection offered in store and measured systematically. The specifications provided by the order initiators, the standard measurements prescribed, and the garment measures were all measured.
Findings
Results clearly indicate that order initiators do not adhere to the standard sizes charts and garment manufacturers are incapable or unwilling to produce garments that meet the order initiators’ specifications.
Research limitations/implications
Product selection and limited sample do not allow generalization yet clearly confirm this hypothesis.
Practical implications
Questions the pertinence of investing heavily in the modernization of standard sizes charts if the industry and the governments are not ready to impose adherence by order initiators.
Originality/value
Fills an important void in the existing literature as, although a number of authors have stated that garment manufacturers do not respect the standard sizes proposed by different national organizations or governmental agencies, the authors could not identify one research demonstrating this fact.
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Lijun Ding, Shuguang Dai and Pingan Mu
Measurement uncertainty calculation is an important and complicated problem in digitised components inspection. In such inspections, a coordinate measuring machine (CMM) and laser…
Abstract
Purpose
Measurement uncertainty calculation is an important and complicated problem in digitised components inspection. In such inspections, a coordinate measuring machine (CMM) and laser scanner are usually used to get the surface point clouds of the component in different postures. Then, the point clouds are registered to construct fully connected point clouds of the component’s surfaces. However, in most cases, the measurement uncertainty is difficult to estimate after the scanned point cloud has been registered. This paper aims to propose a simplified method for calculating the uncertainty of point cloud measurements based on spatial feature registration.
Design/methodology/approach
In the proposed method, algorithmic models are used to calculate the point cloud measurement uncertainty based on noncontact measurements of the planes, lines and points of the component and spatial feature registration.
Findings
The measurement uncertainty based on spatial feature registration is related to the mutual position of registration features and the number of sensor commutation in the scanning process, but not to the spatial distribution of the measured feature. The results of experiments conducted verify the efficacy of the proposed method.
Originality/value
The proposed method provides an efficient algorithm for calculating the measurement uncertainty of registration point clouds based on part features, and therefore has important theoretical and practical significance in digitised components inspection.
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The purpose of this paper was to develop the first standard apparel sizing system for Saudi adult female population originating from anthropometric study using three-dimensional…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper was to develop the first standard apparel sizing system for Saudi adult female population originating from anthropometric study using three-dimensional (3D) body scanner.
Design/methodology/approach
An anthropometric survey was conducted in four regions of the country where 1,074 participants between the ages of 18 and 63 were scanned using white light 3D body scanner. K-means cluster analysis using stature and hip girth as control variables produced the proposed sizing system, whereas regression equations were used to determine the parameters between measurements of different sizes.
Findings
Three sizing groups with 12 size designations in each totalling 36 size designations were identified. The sizing charts developed in this study show that key girth measurement ranges of chest, waist and hips are comparable to that of ISO standard and (ASTM D5585-11), while the Saudi female population falls into shorter height brackets than ISO and ASTM standards.
Originality/value
In this study, the first anthropometric database for Saudi female population was established using 3D body scanning technology, and a sizing system for this target population was developed.
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Karla P. Simmons and Cynthia L. Istook
With the use of 3D body scanners, body measurement techniques can be non‐contact, instant, and accurate. However, how each scanner establishes landmarks and takes the measurements…
Abstract
With the use of 3D body scanners, body measurement techniques can be non‐contact, instant, and accurate. However, how each scanner establishes landmarks and takes the measurements should be established so that standardization of the data capture can be realized. The purpose of this study was to compare body‐scanning measurement extraction methods and terminology with traditional anthropometric methods. A total of 21 measurements were chosen as being critical to the design of well‐fitting garments. Current body scanners were analyzed for availability of information, willingness of company cooperation, and relevance to applications in the apparel industry. On each of the 21 measurements, standard measurement procedure was identified for three different scanners: [TC]2, Cyberware, and SYMCAD. Of the 21 measures in the study, [TC]2 was the scanner that had the most measures identified for the study and also had the capability of producing many more with specific application for apparel.
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Giorgio Cignolo, Franco Alasia, Andrea Capelli, Roberto Goria and Gaetano La Piana
A prototype gas prover was constructed to serve as the Italian primary standard for gas flow rates in the range 0.1 ml/min to 2 l/min. The new prover is used to calibrate…
Abstract
Purpose
A prototype gas prover was constructed to serve as the Italian primary standard for gas flow rates in the range 0.1 ml/min to 2 l/min. The new prover is used to calibrate high‐quality industrial standards, as well as the MFCs used in microelectronic fabrications and preparation of reference gas mixtures.Design/methodology/approach – The prover measures gas volume transfers caused by displacements of a 120 mm dia. motor‐operated piston, which is introduced into a temperature‐controlled chamber containing up to 3 l of the required working gas at near ambient conditions. Gas delivery is made at constant rate, whereas possibly variable incoming flows are measured at constant pressure. Displacements of the piston are measured by an optical interferometer.Findings – The analysis shows that standard uncertainty ranges between 0.013 and 0.03 percent. Owing to the very accurate control and measurement of both pressures and temperatures, these figures refer equally to volume and mass flowrate. Experimental comparisons with similar national standards at LNE‐France and NIST‐USA confirmed the consistency of measurement results in the three Nations.Research limitations/implications – The gas prover should be used with inert gases only.Practical implications – The national industrial gas standards and the best flow transducers can now be calibrated accurately down to unprecedented flowrate values.Originality/value – The need for measurement of extremely low gas flows is quite recent, therefore possibly less than ten primary national standards are available today worldwide. Several completely different principles and designs have been developed; description of design and performance of each instrument is important to assess their respective merits. The described apparatus is innovative as regards measurement range, accuracy and control techniques.
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The article aims to present an overview of how the conflicts related to economic and social agency within particular public sector performance measurement arrangements can work…
Abstract
Purpose
The article aims to present an overview of how the conflicts related to economic and social agency within particular public sector performance measurement arrangements can work for and against the application of balanced scorecard style systems. It highlights some of the dilemmas that are caused when performance measurement and productivity enhancement are required within broad areas of public service, especially where market behaviour is relevant.
Design/methodology/approach
Using a case study approach based on literature review and field research, this article focuses on the gondoliers (gondolieri) of Venice, Italy. The analytical basis is historical record, Aristotelian ideas of ethical responsibility and contemporary literature on performance measurement and productivity.
Findings
The research, so far, has found that performance is not necessarily determined by formal standards and technical measurements. It can be, but performance is also situational and opportunistic and mediated by more subjective and basic concerns. The findings confirm that performance management systems are largely socially rather than technically constructed and operated. As such they will continue to pose dilemmas for public sector managers that will be difficult to resolve.
Originality/value
This is an unusual case study as the gondolieri do not fit neatly into the usual paradigm of public service. Yet they have existed in a similar form for nearly 1,000 years and have operated within performance measurement systems during that time. Thus, it is possible to track the kinds of individual and organisational conflicts, which arise and impact on performance measurement systems, and have done for many centuries up until the present day.
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Marie‐Eve Faust and Serge Carrier
The purpose of this paper is to show that a new size labelling system based on the data gathered by [TC]2 in the Size USA, Let's Size up America survey would better serve the…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to show that a new size labelling system based on the data gathered by [TC]2 in the Size USA, Let's Size up America survey would better serve the female population than the system currently in use.
Design/methodology/approach
Based on previous research conducted on [TC]2 data and on pants measurements in the Canadian market, a new labelling system is proposed where size information is provided with three specific body measurements along with a female silhouette pictogram.
Findings
The paper demonstrates that a size label showing three pants measurements: pants waist, approximate hips, and inseam length, accompanied by a silhouette identifying where these measures were taken, is highly predictive of fit.
Research limitations/implications
The study was limited to lower body (pants) for female.
Practical implications
A change to such a size‐labelling system would allow the apparel industry to move towards mass customisation at minimal costs. It would be more effective for the apparel order givers and retailers, enabling them to target whichever market they wish yet convey the necessary fit information in a generally accepted format. This system would also be more efficient as it would reduce the consumer time spent in fit identification and merchandise returns, in the case of internet or catalogue sales. As a corollary, it would increase both consumer shopping experience satisfaction and industry profitability.
Originality/value
The study proposes a new labelling system.
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Nathan David Gilkerson, Rebecca Swenson and Fraser Likely
The purpose of this paper is to propose an explication of the concept of “maturity,” as it applies to communication evaluation and measurement (E&M) practice, along with…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to propose an explication of the concept of “maturity,” as it applies to communication evaluation and measurement (E&M) practice, along with contextualization of recent maturity model adoption within academic and professional communities.
Design/methodology/approach
Drawing from previous work on maturity models within other fields, recent communication scholarship and industry practice, this paper fills a gap in the literature by offering a theoretical conceptualization of communication E&M maturity, including the construct’s core dimensions and sub-dimensions.
Findings
Communication E&M maturity is conceptualized into four essential elements: holistic approach, investment, alignment and culture. The contribution of E&M efforts is represented as the direct support of corporate strategy, and ultimately increased value, from the communications function. Operational elements of maturity include levels of analysis, time, budget, tools, skills, process, integration, motivations, relationships and standards.
Originality/value
In exploring the factors necessary for “mature” E&M programs, and specifically emphasizing the need for a holistic approach, along with sufficient investment and alignment, and conducive cultural factors, the research builds upon existing work examining how communication can serve to inform corporate strategy and create value for an organization. Greater understanding and application of the maturity concept has the potential to advance the field by increasing both accountability and credibility for the work done by the communications function.
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Deepasri Prabhakar and Sudhakar Rajagopal
The concept of developing clothing sizes has taken importance in recent years due to increasing expectations of consumers for branded clothing and its value in terms of fit and…
Abstract
Purpose
The concept of developing clothing sizes has taken importance in recent years due to increasing expectations of consumers for branded clothing and its value in terms of fit and durability. The kids’ ready-to-wear brands are expected to pose the least fit issues, thereby covering a wider population of a particular size. This necessitates the standardization of measurements. The lack of standardized approaches has caused fit issues like mismatching of sizes and alterations, in a heterogenous consumer market, like India. The performance of branded apparel depends on the quality of the measurements considered in developing sizes and the approach for standardization. There is a lacuna in the measurements used by the kids’ apparel domestic brands. This study aims to propose an anthropometric approach for deriving quality measurements that can be used effectively in developing kids’ sizes to fit a wider population of kids, thereby reducing the need for alterations.
Design/methodology/approach
The measurement data was gathered through the quantitative method. An anthropometric survey was conducted by measuring school kids. A total of 544 kids (girls and boys) of age group 6–8 years were measured to obtain prime anthropometric measurements required for ready-to-wear apparel production. WHO manual and ISO 8559, 1998 meant for anthropometry survey for garment industry was referred for accurate measuring following the landmarks for measuring.
Findings
The findings revealed differences in the anthropometric measurements based on gender and age. The anthropometric measurements showed variations within the same body mass index (BMI) range. S, M and L sizes were identified within an age group. The apparel manufacturers and designers need to focus on the discrepancies occurring in the body measurements of an age group to address and control fit issues in kids ready to wear apparel.
Practical implications
The anthropometric approach can be significantly used to control undesired fit and comfort issues in kids’ ready-to-wear apparel.
Originality/value
This study helped to understand the importance of scientific measuring practices to arrive at standardized measurements to develop sizes in ready-to-wear apparel manufacturing.
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