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Article
Publication date: 7 May 2024

Xin Jiang and Chengxia Liu

The current bending test method can only test the bending performance of fabric in one direction at a time. It is not possible to directly observe the bending morphology of…

Abstract

Purpose

The current bending test method can only test the bending performance of fabric in one direction at a time. It is not possible to directly observe the bending morphology of fabrics in different directions, and it is necessary to cut samples and repeat the test several times, which takes more time. For this situation, a multidirectional visualization of the fabric bending test method is proposed, using which multiple results can be obtained at one time and the fabric bending can be visualized.

Design/methodology/approach

About 17 fabrics are tested using a self-designed device. The fabrics are cut into special triangles and multiple sets of results in three directions are obtained at once using the device. The experimental specimens are photographed from the above and the transverse elongation length, bending projection area and circumference are extracted after image processing.

Findings

The results show that the correlation coefficients of transverse elongation, bending projected area and circumference are good with the bending length measured by the cantilever method. In which, all three indicators are positively correlated with the bending length. This indicates the good feasibility of the new method.

Originality/value

This method can get the bending index of fabrics in three directions, with five samples in each direction at one time. Meanwhile, it can also visualize the flexural differences between different fabrics and directions of the same fabric. It can provide more efficient testing means for the textile testing field, and the testing efficiency is 15 times of the existing method, which has better theoretical significance and practical values.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 9 July 2024

Martina Glogar and Sanja Ercegovic Razic

In the field of research on the application of digital printing to textile materials, there are still many research issues that arise from the very demanding interaction of…

Abstract

Purpose

In the field of research on the application of digital printing to textile materials, there are still many research issues that arise from the very demanding interaction of digital printing technology and the complex, heterogeneous surface system of textile materials. This is precisely why the area of pre-treatment of textile materials is in need of research, and the purpose of this research was to establish the level of influence of physical and chemical activation of the textile surface with plasma and the possibility of improving the quality of the print and colour reproduction.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper deals with the possibility of applying argon and oxygen cold low-pressure plasma in the processing of cellulose knitted fabrics, with the aim of improving the quality of the print and colour reproduction in digital pigment inkjet printing. The selected raw material samples were 100% raw cotton and lyocell. After plasma treatment, the samples were printed by digital ink jet printing with water-based pigment printing ink. An analysis of the micromorphological structure of untreated and plasma-treated samples before and after printing was carried out, and a comparative analysis of the colour of the printed elements was carried out depending on the pre-treatment.

Findings

The conducted research showed a positive influence of plasma pre-treatment on the coverage of the fibre surface with pigments, the uniformity of pigment distribution along the fibre surface and the uniformity of the distribution of the polymeric binder layer. This has a positive effect on colour reproduction. Also, certain improvements in colourfastness to washing were obtained.

Research limitations/implications

Considering the complexity of the topic, although exhaustive, this research is not sufficient in itself, but opens up new questions and gives ideas for further research that must be carried out in this area.

Practical implications

Also, this kind of research contributes to the possibility of adopting the idea of industrial plasma transformation, as an ecologically sustainable functionalisation of textiles, which has not yet been established.

Originality/value

This research is certainly a contribution to the establishment of acceptable textile pre-treatment methods in the field of digital printing, as one of the key quality factors in digital textile printing (DTP). Considering the still large number of obstacles and unanswered questions encountered in the field of digital printing on textiles, this kind of research is a strong contribution to the understanding of the fundamental mechanisms of the complex interaction between printing ink and textile.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 July 2022

Wiah Wardiningsih, Sandra Efendi, Rr. Wiwiek Mulyani, Totong Totong, Ryan Rudy and Samuel Pradana

This study aims to characterize the properties of natural cellulose fiber from the pseudo-stems of the curcuma zedoaria plant.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to characterize the properties of natural cellulose fiber from the pseudo-stems of the curcuma zedoaria plant.

Design/methodology/approach

The fiber was extracted using the biological retting process (cold-water retting). The intrinsic fiber properties obtained were used to evaluate the possibility of using fiber for textile applications.

Findings

The average length of a curcuma zedoaria fiber was 34.77 cm with a fineness value of 6.72 Tex. A bundle of curcuma zedoaria fibers was comprised of many elementary fibers. Curcuma zedoaria had an irregular cross-section, with the lumen having a varied oval shape. Curcuma zedoaria fibers had tenacity and elongation value of 3.32 gf/denier and 6.95%, respectively. Curcuma zedoaria fibers had a coefficient of friction value of 0.46. Curcuma zedoaria fibers belong to a hygroscopic fiber type with a moisture regain value of 10.29%.

Originality/value

Extraction and Characterization of Curcuma zedoaria Pseudo-stems Fibers for Textile Application.

Article
Publication date: 24 October 2022

Lami Amanuel Erana

The purpose of this research is to develop an environmentally friendly antimicrobial dyeing of cotton fabric from the root of Euclea racemosa. Textile phytochemical finishing is…

47

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this research is to develop an environmentally friendly antimicrobial dyeing of cotton fabric from the root of Euclea racemosa. Textile phytochemical finishing is in high demand worldwide because of its low toxicity, low pollution, ease of availability, renewability, pharmacological effects and non-carcinogenic properties, as well as its multifunctionality, rapid process stages and potential health benefit.

Design/methodology/approach

The cotton fabric was dyed with aqueous extracts of Euclea racemosa root dyes. Dyes were extracted for 20 min at pH 7.43 at room and boiling temperatures with material-to-liquor ratios (MLRs) of 1:5, 1:10, 1:15 and 1:20, altering one variable at a time, and the cotton fabric was colored using a post-mordanting procedure at 50°C with an MLR of 1:20. Using a properly cleaned Petri plate, the colored samples were tested in vitro for antibacterial activity. A spectrophotometer was used to assess color strength and shade depth, as well as wash fastness and annual rubbing fastness tests for both wet and dry.

Findings

L* = 36.29, a* = 58.56, b* = 32.46 and K/S = 0.51 were the CIELAB values for dye extracted at boiling temperature. L* = 47.14, a* = 42.23, b* = 49.61 and K/S = 0.38 were the CIELAB values for dye extracted at room temperature. The wash and rubbing fastness of the dyed samples were outstanding and the dyed cotton fabrics were found antibacterial against Gram-negative bacteria Escherichia coli.

Originality/value

Dyes derived from the E. racemosa root could be used to develop a new antibacterial cotton fabric dye.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 September 2024

Faouzi Khedher and Boubaker Jaouachi

The purpose of this work is to study the relationship between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (TS), breaking strength (BS) and cloth’s dimensional…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this work is to study the relationship between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (TS), breaking strength (BS) and cloth’s dimensional stability (Sh), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Hence, we select the most interrelationships using the principal component analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the treatments of finishing garments during washing are the important parameters influencing the cloth’s dimensional and the fabric’s mechanical properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their influence on shrinkage. The polynomial regression model relating the tear strength and the shrinkage of denim fabric proves the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.

Design/methodology/approach

To investigate the matter, the type of washing, and their contributions to shrinkage, four types of fabrics manufactured into pants were used. These fabrics differ not only by their basis weights (medium and heavy weight fabrics) but, also by their compositions (within and without elastane) and their thread count (warp and weft yarn count, twist and density. To evaluate significant results, a factorial design analysis based on an experimental design was established. The choice of these treatments, as well as their design mode, led us to make a complete factorial experimental design.

Findings

According to the results, the prediction of shrinkage behavior as a function of the process washing input parameters seems significant and useful in our experimental design of interest. As a consequence, it was also concluded that after these input parameters, we can find the relationship between the shrinkage (Shwarp and Shweft) and the mechanical properties such as tear strength (TSwarp and TSweft) and breaking strength (BSwarp and BSweft). Thanks to the PCA, it is very easy to reduce the number of the influent output parameters, and knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of mechanical properties knowing the shrinkage of denim garment, during the process of washing seems successful and can undoubtedly help industrial to minimize the poor workmanship of the finishing quality.

Practical implications

This study is very interesting for finishing denim garments. The shrinkage is very important for correcting measures in sewing, considering that a high shrinkage may cause the cancellation of the fit from the client. This type of defect cannot be repaired in the major part of the cases and causes a big loss for the company, moreover the mechanical properties. For this reason, analyzing the value of shrinkage before starting the production cycle is of great importance to apply the right balance to the pattern. The model of predicting the mechanical properties behaviors as a function of the shrinkage denim garment leads manufacturers to eliminate the test of mechanical properties that remain as destructive tests. Moreover, according to the results obtained, it may be concluded that prediction is still accurate through the shrinkage test which is an inevitable test. Even though, these results can bring a huge gain for the garment wash industries.

Originality/value

This work presents the first study predicting a relationship between the mechanical properties and denim garment shrinkage, applying the PCA technique to minimize the all-output parameters that are not significant or correlated with each other. Besides, it deals with the relationship developed between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (TS), breaking strength (BS) and cloth’s dimensional stability (Sh), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Moreover, it is notable to mention that the originality of this study is to let to the garment wash industries to save in production time of orders and also in quality.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 21 May 2024

Sarah Yahia, Marwa Atif Ali and Khaled Mohamed Seddik

This paper aims to produce sustainable sport-hijab or veiling using cotton and bamboo as renewable and eco-material blending with polyester. Due to the unique characteristics of…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to produce sustainable sport-hijab or veiling using cotton and bamboo as renewable and eco-material blending with polyester. Due to the unique characteristics of the knitting fabrics, the research focused on constructing the proposed samples using a circular knitting technique with a French terry structure, to achieve comfort, ease of care, good appearance and sustainability in different climatic conditions.

Design/methodology/approach

The researchers formed three different knitted samples using yarn count 30/1Ne for cotton and bamboo and 70 dens for polyester yarn, using the same blending ratio of 50:50% (cotton/polyester, bamboo/ polyester and cotton/ bamboo). They tested several mechanical and physical properties (weight, thickness, air permeability, water permeability, electrostatic charges, ultraviolet protection factor, stiffness, pilling resistance and bursting strength).

Findings

Using different tools, the researchers statistically analyzed the influence of variables on sample properties, including a Chart line, ANOVA test at p-value = 0.05 and the least significant differences values to identify the effect significantly as well as demonstrate the interaction among the samples at each tested property. Finally, radar chart areas to clarify the preferable sample performance.

Originality/value

The findings declared that blending materials used significantly affected most properties of the produced samples, except for the water permeability and an electrostatic charge. Furthermore, the findings pointed out that blending (cotton or bamboo/polyester) is more efficient and desirable than blending (cotton/ bamboo). Additionally, based on radar charts analysis, the cotton/polyester knitted outperforms other blended materials samples in producing sport-hijab or veiling fabric.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 February 2024

Osman Seray Özkan, Burcu Üzüm and Yasemin Gülbahar

The aim of this research, which is based on social identity theory (SIT), is to investigate the effect of leader vision (LV) and crab syndrome (CS) on creativity. The impact of LV…

Abstract

Purpose

The aim of this research, which is based on social identity theory (SIT), is to investigate the effect of leader vision (LV) and crab syndrome (CS) on creativity. The impact of LV and CS, as well as psychological ownership (PO), on creativity is examined. It is also to determine the mediating role of PO and the moderating role of instrumental climate (IC) in these relationships.

Design/methodology/approach

The research was carried out with the quantitative research method by adopting the screening design. Deductive logic approach was used to develop hypotheses and theoretical framework. The textile sector, where the emphasis on creativity is at the forefront, was chosen as an example. Data without common method variance (CMV) error were analyzed by structural equation modeling (SEM).

Findings

The results of the research show that LV is positively related to creativity, while CS is negatively related to creativity. Additionally, a positive correlation has been identified between PO and creativity. It has been revealed that PO has a mediation role in the relationship between the LV and creativity, and the relationship between the CS and creativity. It has been also determined that IC has a moderator role between the LV and PO.

Originality/value

This study introduces a novel perspective on creativity through the integration of the LV and CS concepts. Furthermore, it contributes significantly to the existing creativity literature by examining the impact of PO on creativity and the mediating role of PO.

Details

Journal of Management Development, vol. 43 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0262-1711

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 July 2024

Sarah Yahia and Khaled Mohamed Seddik

This study aims to accommodate the mechanical characteristics that comply with the spectra of active sportswear by taking the innovative features of double-layered fabric (double…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to accommodate the mechanical characteristics that comply with the spectra of active sportswear by taking the innovative features of double-layered fabric (double cloth) and polyester yarn. The research focused on blending two types of polyester: Renova® and polyester microfiber with different weave structures in both face and back layers for fabricated fabrics. Force resistance was investigated through several properties, the mass per unit area and thickness properties were also considered.

Design/methodology/approach

The research was divided into two phases. The first phase included three samples with the same double cloth structure and different weft materials to detect the most preferable performance. The second phase included three samples with the same materials and different double cloth structures. Several mechanical properties were tested in accordance with standard test methods, and the results were collected, tabulated and statistically analyzed using a chart line, an ANOVA test with a p-value = 0.05, a calculated least significant difference (value) and a radar chart area.

Findings

The results assigned that blending Renova®/polyester microfiber develops mechanical properties than using them individually, considering the increase in polyester microfiber ratio. The double cloth with different plain structures has a significantly different effect on the examined properties, except for elongation and thickness.

Originality/value

According to the radar chart area, the double cloth with a plain rib structure achieved better performance, and in the same vein, the results showed that the plain with a warp rib structure enhanced fabric behavior more than the weft rib.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2024

Qing Li, Chulin Li, Dongdong Dong, Huimin Han, Guangwu Sun, Xiaona Chen, Hongyan Hu, Wenfeng Hu, Hong Xie and Yanmei Li

This study aims to evaluate how the structure of medical compression stockings, including three compression levels and five cross-sections from the ankle to the thigh part, will…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to evaluate how the structure of medical compression stockings, including three compression levels and five cross-sections from the ankle to the thigh part, will be changed after washing in different conditions and further investigate the effect of the washing parameters on the medical compression stockings.

Design/methodology/approach

By washing medical compression stockings in different conditions and measuring the structures (including the density, the girth, the transversal and lengthwise dimension, the weight per unit area and the thickness) of medical compression stockings from the knee to the thigh part.

Findings

It was concluded that the density, the weight per unit and the thickness increase and the girth, the transversal and lengthwise dimension, the weight per unit and the thickness decrease. The change degree of Class one and Class two is greater than Class 3. Moreover, the washing temperature is the most significant factor affecting all the structures of medical compression stockings. Meanwhile, the mechanical actions of the washing machine, like drum speed and washing time, also influence different medical compression stockings structures to different degrees.

Research limitations/implications

The washing parameter not only includes the temperature and washing cycles but also has other factors, such as the drum speed and washing time. In addition, different kinds of factors will be influenced by each other.

Originality/value

This study can provide consumers advices on the washing of medical compression stockings, and attribute to the optimization of materials and structures to maintain its properties for manufacturers.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 3 June 2024

Duygu Yavuzkasap Ayakta, Şule Altun Kurtoğlu and Demet Yilmaz

Wool fiber is accepted as one of the natural and renewable sources and has been used in the apparel and textile industry since ancient times. However, wool fiber has the highest…

Abstract

Purpose

Wool fiber is accepted as one of the natural and renewable sources and has been used in the apparel and textile industry since ancient times. However, wool fiber has the highest global warming potential value among conventional fibres due to its high land use and high methane gas generation. This study aimed to recycle the wool fabric wastes and also to create a mini eco-collection by using the produced yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

This manuscript aimed to evaluate the fabric wastes of a woolen fabric producer company. Fabric wastes were opened with two different opening systems and fiber properties were determined. First, conventional ring yarns were produced in the company’s own spinning mill by mixing the opened fibres with the long fiber wastes of the company. In addition, opening wastes were mixed with different fibres (polyester, long wool waste, and Tencel fibres) between 25% and 70% in the short-staple yarn spinning mill and used in the production of conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns. Most of the yarns contained waste fibres at 50%. Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained and fabric properties were examined. Also, a fabric collection was created. A life cycle assessment (LCA) was made for one of the selected yarns.

Findings

At the end of the study, it was determined that it was possible to produce yarn and fabric samples from fiber blends containing high waste fiber ratios beyond 50%. All the woven fabric samples produced from conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns gave higher breaking, tearing and stitch slip strength values in the weft and warp direction than limit quality values of the company. In addition, abrasion resistance and WIRA steam stability properties of the fabric samples were also sufficient. Environmental analysis of the recycling of the wastes showed a possible decrease of about 9940034.3 kg CO2e per year in the global warming potential. In addition, fiber raw material expenses reduced yarn production cost about 50% in case of opened fabric waste usage. However, due to insufficient pilling resistance results, it was decided to evaluate the woven fabrics for the product groups such as shawls and blankets, where pilling resistance is less sought.

Originality/value

The original aspects of the article can be summarized under two headings. First, there are limited studies on the evaluation of wool wastes compared to cotton and polyester fibres and the number of samples examined was limited. However, this study was quite comprehensive in terms of opening type (rag and tearing), spinning systems (long and short spinning processes), fiber blends (waste 100% and blends with polyester, long wool waste and Tencel fibres) and yarn counts (coarser and finer). Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained using different colour combinations and weave types. All processes from fabric waste to product production were followed and evaluated. Life cycle assessment (LCA) and cost analysis was also done. The second unique aspect is that the problem of a real wool company was handled by taking the waste of the woolen company and a collection was created for the customer group of the company. Production was made under real production conditions. Therefore, this study will provide important findings to the research field about recycling, sustainability etc.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

1 – 10 of over 1000