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The purpose of this paper is to explore garment consumption decision processes of female consumers when they have the option to sew or purchase their clothing.

This research study presents a segment of the findings from a larger qualitative grounded theory study on women who choose to sew clothing for themselves (Martindale, 2017). This research analyzed the interview data pertaining to the unique sew or purchase decision-making process in which these consumers undertake as well as the related control over ready-to-wear consumption that sewing provides them.

The ability to sew resulted in a unique consumer decision-making process in regard to the clothing purchases due to the control it provided them over their ready-to-wear consumption. The women developed factors that they used to make the decision to sew or purchase. Over all the ability to sew provided them the option to sew or purchase clothing, allowing the women more control over their clothing selection specifically in regard to the garments body fit.

This study was limited to English-speaking women living in the North America. The qualitative data collected are specific to this sample which cannot be generalized to all female home sewers. Research involving a larger population of women from a larger geographic area is needed.

The newly developed sew or purchase model provides an understanding of the control that having the option to sew or purchase provides female consumers. The findings offer apparel industry professionals a new perspective on ready-to-wear consumer dissatisfaction. The investment that is made when a garment is sewn instead of purchased has the potential to increase wardrobe sustainability as the consumer experiences more attachment to the clothing they have made. The model serves a starting point for further exploration into other craft-related consumer decision behaviors.

Purchasing decisions of this nature have yet to be considered in published research. Exploring these women’s decisions who operate outside of typical consumer culture and developing a model for this consumer behavior explains a phenomenon not yet addressed by existing consumer consumption research.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the current challenges to making individualized men’s dress shirt adjustments, and devised a novel measurement method to assess shoulder shape.

To understand the common complaints about ready-to-wear dress shirts, a wear evaluation with 15 Japanese males was performed. The shoulder components of these shirts could not be adjusted using any currently available measurement methods. The three-dimensional body shape of two subjects who had a problem with the shoulder of ready-to-wear shirts was compared with a dummy designed to represent the average Japanese male.

The authors determined that one of the subjects with an incompatible shoulder fit had a shoulder point (SP) line that was anterior to the one measured on the average dummy. The other subject had a smaller shoulder angle than the average dummy. To effectively measure the wearer’s shoulder characteristics, the authors devised a new measuring device that can measure the shoulder angle and its degree of forward thrust. With this device, it was possible to understand the wearers’ shoulder types and make appropriate dress shirt adjustments.

The authors devised a new measuring device to assess shoulder angle and forward thrust, qualities that previously could not be measured without three-dimensional analysis. Using this device, it was possible to understand the wearers’ shoulder types and make appropriate dress shirt adjustments.

This paper uses the criteria for defining market segments by George Day to analyse older females as a market segment for well‐fitting clothing. This market can be identified by the physical characteristics of older females and their chronic dissatisfaction with ready‐to‐wear. The growing proportions of older consumers and their life expectancy render this market substantial and durable. Retail trade statistics and family expenditure surveys can be used to measure the market segment. Research pertaining to older females' behaviour towards clothing is limited; therefore, the distinctiveness of older females as a market segment for clothing is far from conclusive. Research implications include clothing expenditures and the behavioural dimension of older consumers.

Body positivity movement empowered plus-size women globally to speak up boldly about their clothing needs. Retailers cannot satisfy this group with some classic style offerings anymore. By taking clue from existing literature, this study aims to identify clothing preferences and problems related to ready-made plus-size clothing in India. Although many past literature pointed out about poorly fitted and size unavailability issues worldwide, very few of them addressed about clothing style preferences.

A self-administered close-ended questionnaire was used to answer a set of objectives. A pilot study with 40 plus-size women was carried out to check the reliability and validity of the instrument. Four hundred subject's data were gathered from six Indian cities with a purpose of varied geographical importance. Statistical tests like binomial distribution was used to analyze fit-related problems of 12 bodily sites such as shoulder, upper arm, lower arm, bust, waist, stomach, abdomen, hip, thigh, lower leg, armhole and elbow, and frequency charts were used to examine Likert scale data of sizing problems. The choices of 12 clothing styles were mapped through four factors which affect the purchasing decision of a plus-size woman.

Poor-fitted clothes at 10 body sites out of the 12 reflected about the fit aspect of plus-size clothing in India. Findings associated to sizing issues like unavailability of trendy clothes in appropriate sizes, which also adorn Indian curvy figure, shows synonymy to the worldwide researcher's findings related to sizing chaos. Classic silhouettes like Straight Indian kurti, A-line dresses and regular-fit trousers were majorly preferred by women. Hiding body bulges was mostly preferred while purchasing loose-fitted garments, and fitted garments were preferred only if these suits to the curvy body proportion. Appropriate fit and size availability are always a prime requisite for this class of women.

The outcomes of research will help Indian retailers/manufacturers to update their patterns in order to provide desired fit. In this lacuna of standard size chart, the study will add value in the development of Indian plus-size women's size chart. The factor mapping with clothing preferences will be useful to reduce rejections and inventories.

The paper seeks to explore home sewers' satisfaction with the fit of garments made from home sewing patterns and to provide useful information to the home sewing industry to improve products and services for the target consumer.

Home sewers attending home sewing expos in the states of Minnesota and Washington were surveyed to determine satisfaction with fit of home sewing patterns and to determine factors that may affect satisfaction with the patterns.

The results clearly indicate that these respondents were frustrated with the fit of home sewing patterns and that their efforts to adjust patterns for better fit were typically not successful.

The limited sample does not allow generalization, but may lend some insight into problems the home sewing pattern industry may have in attracting and maintaining customer loyalty.

Although there are many studies demonstrating consumer dissatisfaction with the fit of ready‐to‐wear apparel, few studies have focused specifically on the home sewing pattern industry. This industry could benefit from further understanding of its customer base.

This study measures the levels of satisfaction regarding retail attributes and apparel fit among speciality‐size (petite, tall, large) college women. Previous studies have measured satisfaction among older speciality‐size women, but none has focused on younger women. The study utilised a conceptual framework based on Renoux's theory of retail satisfaction which consisted of three dimensions: shopping system satisfaction, buying system satisfaction, and consuming system satisfaction. Renoux's theory of retail satisfaction was applied to speciality‐size college women when considering apparel purchases. Female students from nine geographically diverse universities completed the questionnaire. The 358 respondents were categorised into three speciality‐size groups based on their height or clothing size. Respondents who were not categorised as being speciality‐size were placed in an average category. Analyses of variance were used to measure the levels of satisfaction. Findings indicated large‐size college females were the only group who had significant dissatisfaction in regard to shopping and buying systems (retail attributes). The results were surprising because there are numerous stores specifically targeted to large‐size females; however, these stores do not appear to be satisfactorily meeting the needs of the large‐size college females who participated in this study. Petite, tall and large‐size college females indicated dissatisfaction with various apparel fit variables, with the large‐size group being most dissatisfied. The results indicated that apparel manufacturers should re‐evaluate their sizing standards; perhaps a universal, international sizing standard is warranted.

To demonstrate that the current weaknesses in women's ready‐to‐wear size standardization charts originate not only in the obsolescence of the base data but also in the non‐adherence of order initiators to the suggested standard sizes.

Trouser manufacturers were selected in such a way as to cover the full price‐range spectrum. They provided their waist standard measurements and confirmed that they use the same measurements for all product lines. In‐store measurements were done. Garments were chosen at random from the selection offered in store and measured systematically. The specifications provided by the order initiators, the standard measurements prescribed, and the garment measures were all measured.

Results clearly indicate that order initiators do not adhere to the standard sizes charts and garment manufacturers are incapable or unwilling to produce garments that meet the order initiators’ specifications.

Product selection and limited sample do not allow generalization yet clearly confirm this hypothesis.

Questions the pertinence of investing heavily in the modernization of standard sizes charts if the industry and the governments are not ready to impose adherence by order initiators.

Fills an important void in the existing literature as, although a number of authors have stated that garment manufacturers do not respect the standard sizes proposed by different national organizations or governmental agencies, the authors could not identify one research demonstrating this fact.

The purpose of this paper is to assess tall women's satisfaction with the fit and style of apparel for tall women.

A total of 75 US women, who were at least 5 feet 8 inches and between 18 and 54 years old, were asked to rate their level of satisfaction with misses‐size and tall‐size apparel, in general, and with seven garment categories (jackets/blazers/coats, button‐up blouses, pullover tops/sweaters, skirts, jeans, pants, lingerie).

T‐tests revealed that participants were more satisfied with the fit of tall‐size apparel than with the fit of misses‐size apparel, but were more satisfied with the style of misses‐size than with the style of tall‐size apparel. In addition, participants most frequently used the misses‐size designation to purchase clothing and rated style as more important than fit. Despite reported dissatisfaction with the fit of misses‐size apparel, participants appeared willing to sacrifice fit to have the desired styles.

The study was limited to US women in Southwestern Virginia. Thus preferences affected by regional product offerings may be reflected in the responses.

The paper provides discussion on implications of mass customization in resolving the conflict tall women report between the desire for properly fitting apparel and the desire for current style trends.

No existing empirical research has examined tall women's satisfaction with products specifically designed for their special anthropometric and style preference needs. This research serves as the foundation for extending research for the market segment from an applied and basic research approach.

This paper explores fashion availability, fit and affordability in the UK stores especially for those women who wear size 16 and over; and examines their satisfaction/dissatisfaction with the retail experience.

The satisfaction of customer needs remains a fundamental tenet of marketing theory, research and application. This survey was an exploratory study into satisfaction/dissatisfaction with the fashion provision and shopping environments for women in the UK. A questionnaire solicited the views of 250 women thereby enabling the researchers to gauge consumers' views on sizing, fit and fashion availability, perception of current offers, pricing and shopping environments.

A large percentage of females, particularly those who wear size 16 and over, are dissatisfied with retail environments, fashion and sizing provision among major UK market players. While most women shopped from the high street and department stores, the larger woman had great difficulty in finding well‐fitting fashionable clothing in general, and with certain categories being most problematic. Respondents' views would appear to contradict previously accepted wisdom that clothing consumption activity is leisure and pleasure orientated; many negative experiences prevailed leaving them unhappy and disenfranchised.

The findings presented are the views of women's experiences in one city in the UK. Future research could include a wider sample from more cities.

Marketers should be aware of the need for affordable fashions for larger women. Lack of appropriate sizes is a major source of dissatisfaction. This creates negative emotions in terms of: merchandise choice, visual merchandising, store environment, sales personnel attitude, pricing policies and promotional activities. These factors are the very foundations of consumer satisfaction and the evidence of consumer dissatisfaction resulting in avoidance behaviour should be particularly worrying for retailers, given that they are operating in an increasingly competitive and saturated fashion environment.

This paper provides an initial indication of what creates consumer satisfaction or dissatisfaction about fashion, fit, affordability and retail environments in the UK particularly among larger women. This paper shows areas of specific concern for marketers.

To evaluate current apparel industry Misses grading practices in providing good fit and propose grading practices to improve fit.

Participants representing Misses sizes 6‐20 based on ASTM D 5585 were selected. The fit of garments from traditionally graded patterns was assessed. Garments were fit‐to‐shape on participants. Traditionally graded patterns were compared to fit‐to‐shape patterns using quantitative and qualitative visual analysis.

Current apparel industry grading practices do not provide good fit for consumers. The greatest variation between the traditionally graded patterns and the fit‐to‐shape patterns occurred between sizes 14 and 16. For size 16 and up, neck and armscye circumferences were too large and bust dart intakes were too small.

This study was limited to a sheath dress in Misses sizes 6‐20. Future research should assess the fit of garments from traditionally graded patterns for other size ranges.

Multiple fit modes are needed in a range of more than five sizes. The fit model should be at the middle of a sizing group that does not range more than two sizes up or down.

There are few studies on apparel grading that test fit of actual garments on the body. The analysis documents the real growth of the body across the size range and suggests that changes in body measurements and shape determine the fit of a garment. These findings impact future research in apparel and the practices of apparel manufacturers.