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The paper seeks to explore home sewers' satisfaction with the fit of garments made from home sewing patterns and to provide useful information to the home sewing industry to improve products and services for the target consumer.

Home sewers attending home sewing expos in the states of Minnesota and Washington were surveyed to determine satisfaction with fit of home sewing patterns and to determine factors that may affect satisfaction with the patterns.

The results clearly indicate that these respondents were frustrated with the fit of home sewing patterns and that their efforts to adjust patterns for better fit were typically not successful.

The limited sample does not allow generalization, but may lend some insight into problems the home sewing pattern industry may have in attracting and maintaining customer loyalty.

Although there are many studies demonstrating consumer dissatisfaction with the fit of ready‐to‐wear apparel, few studies have focused specifically on the home sewing pattern industry. This industry could benefit from further understanding of its customer base.

The purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and interaction to design 3D garments and 2D patterns. The proposed scheme has the potential to satisfy the individual needs of fashion industry, such as precise fit evaluation of the garment, interactive style editing with ease allowance and constrained contour lines in fashion design.

The authors first construct a parametric pattern-making model for flat pattern design corresponding to the body dimensions. Then, the designing 2D patterns are stitched on a virtual 3D mannequin by performing a virtual try-on. If the customer is unsatisfied after the virtual try-on, the adjustable parameters (appearance parameters and fit parameters) can be adjusted using the 2D–3D linkage editing with hierarchical constrained contour lines, and the fit evaluation tool interactively provides the feedback.

The authors observed that the usability and efficiency of the existing garment pattern-making method simplifies the garment pattern-making process. The authors utilize an interactive garment parametric flat pattern-making model to generate an individualized garment flat pattern that effectively adjust and realize the local editing of the garment pattern-making. The 2D–3D linkage editing is then employed, which alters the size and shape of garment pattern for a precise human model fit of the 3D garment using hierarchical constrained contour lines. Various instances have validated the effectiveness of the proposed scheme, which can increase the reusability of the existing garment styles and improve the efficiency of fashion design.

First, the authors do not consider the garment pattern-making design of sophisticated styles. Second, the authors do not directly consider complex garment shapes such as wrinkles, folds, multi-layer models and fabric physical properties.

The authors propose a pattern adjustment scheme that uses the 3D virtual try-on technology to avoid repetitions of reality-based fit tests and garment sample making in the designing process of clothing products. The proposed scheme provides interactive selections of garment patterns and sizes and renders modification tools for 3D garment designing and 2D garment pattern-making. The authors present the 2D–3D interactive linkage editing scheme for a custom-fit garment pattern based on the hierarchical constraint contour lines. The spatial relationship among the human body, pattern pieces and 3D garment model is adequately expressed, and the final design result of the garment pattern is obtained by constraint solving. Meanwhile, the tightness tension of different parts of the 3D garment is analyzed, and the fit and comfort of the garment are quantitatively evaluated.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the current challenges to making individualized men’s dress shirt adjustments, and devised a novel measurement method to assess shoulder shape.

To understand the common complaints about ready-to-wear dress shirts, a wear evaluation with 15 Japanese males was performed. The shoulder components of these shirts could not be adjusted using any currently available measurement methods. The three-dimensional body shape of two subjects who had a problem with the shoulder of ready-to-wear shirts was compared with a dummy designed to represent the average Japanese male.

The authors determined that one of the subjects with an incompatible shoulder fit had a shoulder point (SP) line that was anterior to the one measured on the average dummy. The other subject had a smaller shoulder angle than the average dummy. To effectively measure the wearer’s shoulder characteristics, the authors devised a new measuring device that can measure the shoulder angle and its degree of forward thrust. With this device, it was possible to understand the wearers’ shoulder types and make appropriate dress shirt adjustments.

The authors devised a new measuring device to assess shoulder angle and forward thrust, qualities that previously could not be measured without three-dimensional analysis. Using this device, it was possible to understand the wearers’ shoulder types and make appropriate dress shirt adjustments.

A common pipeline of apparel design and simulation is adjusting 2D apparel patterns, putting them onto a virtual human model and performing 3D physically based simulation. However, manually adjusting 2D apparel patterns and performing simulations require repetitive adjustments and trials in order to achieve satisfactory results. To support future made-to-fit apparel design and manufacturing, efficient tools for fast custom design purposes are desired. The purpose of this paper is to propose a method to automatically adjust 2D apparel patterns and rapidly generate acustom apparel style for a given human model.

The authors first pre-define a set of constraints using feature points, feature lines and ease allowance for existing apparels and human models. The authors formulate the apparel fitting to a human model, as a process of optimization using these predefined constraints. Then, the authors iteratively solve the problem by minimizing the total fitting metric.

The authors observed that through reusing existing apparel styles, the process of designing apparels can be greatly simplified. The authors used a new fitting function to measure the geometric fitting of corresponding feature points/lines between apparels and a human model. Then, the optimized 2D patterns are automatically obtained by minimizing the matching function. The authors’ experiments show that the authors’ approach can increase the reusability of existing apparel styles and improve apparel design efficiency.

There are some limitations. First, in order to achieve interactive performance, the authors’ current 3D simulation does not detect collision within or between adjacent apparel surfaces. Second, the authors’ did not consider multiple layer apparels. It is non-trivial to define ease allowance between multiple layers.

The authors use a set of constraints such as ease allowance, feature points, feature lines, etc. for existing apparels and human models. The authors define a few new fitting functions using these pre-specified constraints. During physics-driven simulation, the authors iteratively minimize these fitting functions.

The purpose of this paper is to present a new collaborative design-based method for designing customized garments, aimed at the physically disabled people with scoliosis.

The proposed method is based on the virtual human model created using a 3D body scanner, permitting to simulate the consumer’s morphological shape with atypical physical deformations. Next, customized 2D and 3D virtual garment prototyping tools will be used to create products through interactions between the consumer, designer and pattern maker. The general principle of the proposed design method is based on the following sequence: design-display-evaluation-adjustment. After running the sequence for a number of times, the final design solution, which will be approved by both the designer and consumer, can be easily identified.

Design knowledge, which is already applied to normal body shapes successfully can be applied to 3D garment design using the concept which is based on collaborative design. Through this process, the classical 2D garment design knowledge, especially 2D patterns and design rules, can be modified and applied according to a normalized virtual garment sensory evaluation procedure quantitatively. This evaluation procedure, interactively performed by the designer and consumer, can permit to adapt the finished product to disabled people afflicted with severe scoliosis. The proposed method is also validated to be more advanced compared to 2D-to-3D virtual CAD design method, especially for atypical morphologies.

As a co-design method, 3D virtual draping and sensory evaluation can fully satisfy the interaction between the garment design technical space and perceptual space of the finished garments ensuring desired 3D garment fit effect by adjustment of technical parameters. 3D scanning technology is used to generate a complete digitalized 3D human model, permitting to extract the main features of body shapes without accurate measurements. As a knowledge-based design process, both the fashion design knowledge and the pattern making knowledge will be extracted to provide inspirations and references. Successful design solutions will be incorporated into the fashion design knowledge base in order to generate new design rules and enhance professional design knowledge.

This paper examines the empirical patterns of futures prices volatility by using different seasonal adjustment techniques The average absolute month to month percentage (AAPC) figures are used to describe the extent of smoothness when seasonal adjustment methods are applied. Several interesting patterns are suggested from the observation of different futures contracts. The authors then suggest further that if seasonal patterns do exist for futures prices volatility, it is possible to focus the study of futures prices volatility on the different seasonal filters selection, and/or on the different seasonal models alternatives.

Examines the methodological issues that arise in generating standardised transaction data for use in analysing the determinants of retail rents. Looks at the issues raised by the use of comparative information and the existence of widely accepted conventions for adjusting comparative evidence to allow for the specific physical and legal characteristics of individual properties. Concludes by questioning the need to test valuation convention against market evidence and the notion of open market value is reassessed.

This paper aims to study the tensile performance, deformation characteristics, auxeticity and stability of different auxetic tubular structures generated by cutting method and pattern scale factor (PSF) method using validated finite element analysis.

Two types of auxetic tubular structures were designed by a coordinate transformation method and the PSF adjustment method, respectively. ABAQUS/explicit solver was used for the large deformation analysis and the displacement of key nodes was extracted to calculate Poisson’s ratio value and evaluate the deformation of tubular structures.

The random cut method was not suitable for designing auxetic tubular structures. Vertical and horizontal cut approach was suitable, but the change of the tubular diameter was lower than the tubular structures generated by the PSF adjustment method.

Simple ways to generate auxetic tubular structure, which can be made into intelligent and foldable equipment, such as annuloplasty rings, angioplasty stents and oesophageal stents. By combined with shape memory polymer, various smart tubular materials and structures with various functions can be designed, especially in medical scaffold and other medical equipment fields.

The auxetic characteristic of tubular structure designed by using random cut method has been investigated for the first time. The outcome of this study would be very useful design tubular structures with better mechanical properties.