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Book part
Publication date: 25 July 2024

Angelos Bollas

This chapter focuses on the nuanced interplay between celebrity culture, fashion, and gender norms, examining how the sartorial choices of actors Timothée Chalamet, Paul Mescal…

Abstract

This chapter focuses on the nuanced interplay between celebrity culture, fashion, and gender norms, examining how the sartorial choices of actors Timothée Chalamet, Paul Mescal, and Barry Keoghan challenge and redefine traditional constructs of masculinity. Through a detailed analysis of their appearances at high-profile events and in fashion editorials, the chapter analyses the implications of their fashion choices. By focusing on the actors’ deliberate deviation from conventional menswear, the analysis illuminates the evolving landscape of gender expression within the realm of celebrity influence. The exploration begins by considering the technological aspects of photography that spotlight the actors, emphasising their attire over other elements within the image. The compositional modality reveals a deliberate challenge to gender norms, as evidenced by Chalamet’s gender-bending ensembles, Mescal’s avant-garde choices, and Keoghan’s playful engagement with traditionally feminine aesthetics. The social modality contextualises these choices within broader societal and cultural trends, highlighting the role of celebrity culture in shaping public perceptions of gender and fashion. Ultimately, this chapter argues that these celebrities’ fashion decisions not only reflect personal style but also contribute to a cultural shift towards more fluid and inclusive expressions of masculinity. By straddling the line between personal expression and societal influence, their public appearances offer a rich site for examining how contemporary celebrity culture both challenges and perpetuates traditional gender hierarchies. The analysis underscores the potential of celebrity-driven fashion to serve as a catalyst for redefining masculinity in the modern age, suggesting a gradual, yet significant, shift in societal norms and expectations.

Article
Publication date: 28 November 2022

Daniel Almaguer Buentello, Aurore Bardey and Jekaterina Rogaten

Our study explored and mapped cisgender female consumers' motivation and shopping experience for cross-sexual fashion, i.e. people shopping for clothes that are not designed or…

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Abstract

Purpose

Our study explored and mapped cisgender female consumers' motivation and shopping experience for cross-sexual fashion, i.e. people shopping for clothes that are not designed or marketed for their biological sex.

Design/methodology/approach

Using a qualitative method, this study explored and mapped consumers' motivation and shopping experience for cross-sexual fashion. Thirteen cisgender female millennials were interviewed about their memories and perceptions of their pre-purchase, purchase and post-purchase experiences.

Findings

The findings defined the model of cross-sexual shopping behaviour in cisgender women with the following: (1) two pre-purchase schemes, i.e. fashioned gender schema and nonconformity motivation; (2) one pivotal and main purchase factor, i.e. time invested in the experience itself; and (3) two post-purchase schemes, i.e. use for comfort and use for protection. Practical marketing approaches in advertising and in-store experiences were identified in order to better target cross-sexual consumers.

Originality/value

Unisex fashion (or degendered fashion) has pioneered a fashion trend considered a growing trend in younger generations. To our knowledge, this study is the first research exploring regendered fashion (i.e. going beyond the cisgender and same-sex purchase approach of fashion consumerism) through the lens of cross-sexual consumer behaviour.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 27 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 25 July 2024

Angelos Bollas

This chapter focuses on the interplay between visual culture and the construction of masculinities, focusing on the mediated representations of promotional appearances of actors…

Abstract

This chapter focuses on the interplay between visual culture and the construction of masculinities, focusing on the mediated representations of promotional appearances of actors Timothée Chalamet, Paul Mescal, and Barry Keoghan. The chapter examines the site of production of these images and argues that understanding the nuanced production of masculinities extends beyond mere aesthetics, requiring a critical examination of the external narratives and conditions underpinning image creation. The chapter situates these visual representations within the broader politics of their production, offering a lens through which to interrogate the decision-making processes and contextual factors that shape our appreciation of these images. The chapter explains how traditional gender norms are challenged and queered, thereby subverting conventional expectations of cisgender heterosexual masculinity. It critically examines the technological, compositional, and social modalities inherent in image production, revealing how camera technology, stylistic expression, and the symbiotic relationship between images, celebrity culture, and capitalist imperatives influence narrative authenticity and the portrayal of gender. By unpacking the motives behind image production and consumption, this inquiry unveils the complex dynamics of identity, queerbaiting practices, and the commodification of gender and sexuality within media representations. It prompts reflection on the emancipatory potential of visual artefacts against their entanglement with profit-driven agendas and normative constructs, advocating for a vigilant approach to the consumption of visual culture. This critical examination not only challenges existing gender norms but also highlights the susceptibility of images to co-option by dominant discourses, urging a deeper understanding of masculinity in contemporary visual culture.

Book part
Publication date: 25 July 2024

Angelos Bollas

This chapter focuses on the complex dynamics of how photographs, particularly those related to celebrity fashion that challenge traditional gender norms, navigate the spaces from…

Abstract

This chapter focuses on the complex dynamics of how photographs, particularly those related to celebrity fashion that challenge traditional gender norms, navigate the spaces from production to reception. By focusing on the processes of circulating and audiencing, the chapter examines the transformations images undergo and the varying interpretations they elicit as they move across different platforms and audiences. The study foregrounds the notion that photographs are not merely passive visual objects but active participants in the negotiation of cultural meanings and identities, especially concerning masculinities. Through an analysis of public appearances of Timothée Chalamet, Paul Mescal, and Barry Keoghan, the chapter explores the technological, compositional, and social modalities that influence these images’ circulation and reception. It highlights how alterations in the context of circulation can subtly or significantly affect audience interpretation, highlighting the role of viewers in constructing meanings around masculinities. This exploration illustrates the broader implications of visual culture in contemporary discussions on gender, revealing how circulating images and audiencing practices contribute to shaping and challenging societal norms and expectations of masculinity. By navigating the intersections of technology, composition, and society, this chapter contributes to a deeper understanding of the power dynamics at play in the visual representation of gender.

Article
Publication date: 30 December 2023

Baoru Ge and Yun Xue

Based on Kansei Engineering, this study obtained consumers' emotional preferences aiming to enhance the emotional connection between consumers and clothing to extend the service…

Abstract

Purpose

Based on Kansei Engineering, this study obtained consumers' emotional preferences aiming to enhance the emotional connection between consumers and clothing to extend the service life of clothing and realize sustainable clothing design.

Design/methodology/approach

Six Kansei word pairs that are the most important to consumers were identified through literature reviews, magazines, websites, card sorting of consumers and cluster analysis. Finally, the consumers scored the 32 product specimens through a 5-level rating semantic differential scale questionnaire of six Kansei word pairs. The researchers verified the consumers' emotional preferences through principal component analysis and established the relationship between Kansei words and design elements of color through partial least squares.

Findings

The study found consumers' emotional preferences: elegant, minimalist, formal, casual, mature, practical and distinctive style. Besides white, black, gray, blue, consumers will also like red and yellow-red in the future. The crucial findings of this study are to get recommended guidelines that consumers' emotional preferences match the corresponding design elements.

Originality/value

The study's findings can be used to style the design of men's plain-color shirts and guide online marketers and designers to design apparel that meets consumers' emotional needs to develop consumers' sustainability reliance on clothing. This study also explains the overall process and methodology for integrating consumer preferences and product design elements.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 29 August 2024

Simi Maria Mathew, Smitha Nayak and Veena Rao

Mass customization is a production process that allows consumers to customize products from an array of options to suit their preferences and needs and benefit from large-scale…

Abstract

Purpose

Mass customization is a production process that allows consumers to customize products from an array of options to suit their preferences and needs and benefit from large-scale production efficiencies. In recent years, several apparel retailers have integrated customization into their online presence. While the benefits of online apparel mass customization (OAMC) are apparent, factors that determine the usage of the process are many. Therefore, it is important to explore these factors and understand the relationships between them and the impact on the intention to use OAMC.

Design/methodology/approach

A review of studies published in the last decade was conducted through the Scopus, Web of Science and JSTOR databases in September 2023. Peer-reviewed research articles published in the English language were included. These studies were carried out in the United States of America, Canada, Korea and China and addressed motivations and antecedents of OAMC technology.

Findings

The data were extracted, and the findings were synthesized. The review process enabled us to examine several theories and determinants of OAMC. The latter were categorized into the following themes: “consumer personality and psychology”, “consumer perceptions”, “consumer behaviour determinants” and “process, experience and product”. The influence of consumer personality traits, psychogenic needs, characteristics and other facilitating conditions emerged through the review.

Originality/value

The purpose of this paper is to study the various determinants of OAMC and thereby provide valuable information to businesses in OAMC domains to improve customized processes, understand consumers' motivations and develop marketing strategies that improve overall satisfaction with OAMC.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 27 May 2024

Sameeullah Khan, Asif Iqbal Fazili, Park Thaichon, Sara Quach, Mohd Ashraf Parry and Irfan Bashir

This paper aims to challenge the notion that “having-less” – limiting consumption of scarce resources to a select few – represents a social responsibility route toward guilt…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to challenge the notion that “having-less” – limiting consumption of scarce resources to a select few – represents a social responsibility route toward guilt reduction. It rather argues that “saving-more” – the purposeful pursuit of conscious and collaborative consumption – captures consumers’ true representations of responsible luxury which in turn reduces anticipated guilt.

Design/methodology/approach

Six experiments using different operationalizations of saving-more (vs. having-less) and a mix of fictitious and real luxury brands were conducted on real luxury buyers.

Findings

The findings demonstrate that saving-more (vs. having-less) leads to a stronger purchase intention; an effect explained by a higher responsible luxury perception and lower anticipated guilt associated with saving-more (vs. having-less). Furthermore, the ability of saving-more (vs. having-less) in building responsible luxury perception and reducing anticipated guilt is stronger (vs. weaker) when luxury is distributed based on deservingness (vs. entitlement).

Research limitations/implications

This research proposes a novel distinction between two responsible luxury approaches: promoting limited consumption for business goals, that is, having-less and promoting conscious consumption for societal goals, that is, saving-more.

Practical implications

Brand managers can enhance responsible luxury perception and reduce consumer guilt through corporate communication, product communication and collaborative product accessibility modes. Managers must also convince consumers that their access to luxury is based on real achievements.

Originality/value

This study empirically invalidates the notion that merely invoking scarcity and rarity tactics is an expression of social responsibility. It integrates social responsibility and fairness accounts of guilt into a coherent theory of guilt over luxury consumption.

Details

European Journal of Marketing, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0309-0566

Keywords

Case study
Publication date: 30 January 2024

Youwei Wang

As an Internet fashion brand, HSTYLE has developed into an Internet enterprise with annual sales of 1.5 billion RMB within 10 years, establishing its position as the top industry…

Abstract

As an Internet fashion brand, HSTYLE has developed into an Internet enterprise with annual sales of 1.5 billion RMB within 10 years, establishing its position as the top industry performer in China. This case studies HSTYLES' innovation in business model and organizational management. HSTYLE's workgroups have achieved the balance of responsibilities and rights in a small team of three members at minimum, while mobilizing the enthusiasm and initiative of the line managers with the support of public service sector. At the same time, HSTYLE enriches its brand style, establishes a fashion cloud platform, and integrates individual and organizational consumers into its existing fashion design, manufacturing and sales system.

Details

FUDAN, vol. no.
Type: Case Study
ISSN: 2632-7635

Content available
Book part
Publication date: 25 July 2024

Angelos Bollas

Abstract

Details

Fashionable Queerness: Straight Appropriation of Queer Fashion
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-83608-139-5

Content available
Book part
Publication date: 14 December 2023

Abstract

Details

Fashion and Tourism
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-80262-976-7

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