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The human body has the same basic size data but has different surface morphology, resulting in the unfitness even under the same size specification. The purpose of this study was to solve the local fitness problems by representing and quantifying the human surface morphological difference.

Firstly, the 3D point cloud for 323 female students was scanned, and the cross-section layers of the “waist-to-thigh” zone were determined. Secondly, the space vector based on the space Euclidean distance was extracted to represent and quantify the surface morphological difference. And the Principal Component Analysis and K-means were adopted to subdivide the target zone. Thirdly, the pattern based on the subdivision results and surface flattening was generated. Additionally, the fitness was evaluated by the subjective and objective assessments, separately.

The space vector could represent and quantify the shape morphology of the “waist-to-thigh” zone. It had successfully achieved the human body subdivision and corresponding pattern generation for the “waist-to-thigh” zone. And the pattern based on the shape subdivision and surface flattening of the space vector could effectively improve the wearing fitness. Particularly in the waist and crotch area of trousers, the obvious wrinkles had been solved because the space vector is more in line with the shape morphology characteristics.

The proposed method could represent and quantify the difference in human surface morphology in a 3D manner. It solved the unfitness problem caused by the same body size but different shape surface morphology. And it will contribute to the fitness improvement of the trousers.

This chapter focuses on the nuanced interplay between celebrity culture, fashion, and gender norms, examining how the sartorial choices of actors Timothée Chalamet, Paul Mescal, and Barry Keoghan challenge and redefine traditional constructs of masculinity. Through a detailed analysis of their appearances at high-profile events and in fashion editorials, the chapter analyses the implications of their fashion choices. By focusing on the actors’ deliberate deviation from conventional menswear, the analysis illuminates the evolving landscape of gender expression within the realm of celebrity influence. The exploration begins by considering the technological aspects of photography that spotlight the actors, emphasising their attire over other elements within the image. The compositional modality reveals a deliberate challenge to gender norms, as evidenced by Chalamet’s gender-bending ensembles, Mescal’s avant-garde choices, and Keoghan’s playful engagement with traditionally feminine aesthetics. The social modality contextualises these choices within broader societal and cultural trends, highlighting the role of celebrity culture in shaping public perceptions of gender and fashion. Ultimately, this chapter argues that these celebrities’ fashion decisions not only reflect personal style but also contribute to a cultural shift towards more fluid and inclusive expressions of masculinity. By straddling the line between personal expression and societal influence, their public appearances offer a rich site for examining how contemporary celebrity culture both challenges and perpetuates traditional gender hierarchies. The analysis underscores the potential of celebrity-driven fashion to serve as a catalyst for redefining masculinity in the modern age, suggesting a gradual, yet significant, shift in societal norms and expectations.

This chapter focuses on the complex dynamics of how photographs, particularly those related to celebrity fashion that challenge traditional gender norms, navigate the spaces from production to reception. By focusing on the processes of circulating and audiencing, the chapter examines the transformations images undergo and the varying interpretations they elicit as they move across different platforms and audiences. The study foregrounds the notion that photographs are not merely passive visual objects but active participants in the negotiation of cultural meanings and identities, especially concerning masculinities. Through an analysis of public appearances of Timothée Chalamet, Paul Mescal, and Barry Keoghan, the chapter explores the technological, compositional, and social modalities that influence these images’ circulation and reception. It highlights how alterations in the context of circulation can subtly or significantly affect audience interpretation, highlighting the role of viewers in constructing meanings around masculinities. This exploration illustrates the broader implications of visual culture in contemporary discussions on gender, revealing how circulating images and audiencing practices contribute to shaping and challenging societal norms and expectations of masculinity. By navigating the intersections of technology, composition, and society, this chapter contributes to a deeper understanding of the power dynamics at play in the visual representation of gender.

This study aims to analyze the export competitiveness of Bangladesh's apparel industry by identifying the specific product categories that help sustain its export comparative advantage.

Compound annual growth rate (CAGR) and market share (MS) are calculated between 2011 and 2020 at the two- and four-digit level apparel product categories within the harmonized system (HS) to analyze the industry’s growth and export dominance. Trade competitiveness (TC) at the four-digit level, revealed comparative advantage (RCA) and normalized revealed comparative advantage (NRCA) at the two-, four- and six-digit-level apparel product categories are computed for the same 10-year period to investigate the industry’s export competitiveness. Major export destinations of the top 5 exporting product categories are identified to understand the factors facilitating the industry’s growth. A non-parametric Spearman rank correlation analysis evaluated the association between the RCA and NRCA indices.

Among the 34 product categories at the four-digit level, 29 consistently demonstrated an export comparative advantage, as did 34 out of 217 six-digit level sub-categories. In contrast, 12 sub-categories at the six-digit level consistently exhibited a comparative disadvantage in Bangladesh's export competitiveness. Furthermore, the TC measure identified 28 categories at the four-digit level with a robust comparative advantage. 30 categories displayed a positive CAGR, and Bangladesh asserted significant market dominance over 26 product categories at the four-digit level.

This study's implications are significant for various stakeholders in Bangladesh and other apparel-exporting industries, encompassing government entities, industry officials, policymakers, investors, researchers and students. Nevertheless, limitations arise from the study's reliance on RCA and NRCA as competitiveness indicators, particularly its adoption of a macro-level approach for measurement without exploring a micro-level perspective. This constitutes a notable constraint in the study's analytical framework.

This study contributed novelty and enrichment to the existing academic literature by identifying distinct apparel product categories that contribute to the industry's growth.

Multisited ethnography has primarily been portrayed as a challenge for the following field-worker, with the researcher taking the central role and neglecting research participants also experiencing a multisited nature of their work. The authors argue that literature on multisited ethnography merely discusses multisitedness as a methodological theme. In correspondence, the authors propose to think of multisitedness not just as a methodological theme but also as an empirical theme.

The authors contend etic and emic perspectives to address multisitedness empirically, which enables researchers to compare and contrast the multisited topic of inquiry in academic “outsider” terms with the etic analysis and considering the perspective of the research participants' multisited experiences using the emic perspective. To show the fruitfulness of discussing multisitedness using the complementary etic and emic analysis, the authors present the example of Mennonite entrepreneurial activities in Belize, a heterogeneous group of migrants that established themselves as successful traders and entrepreneurs.

Through an etic multisited ethnographic perspective, the authors compare and contrast four communities of Mennonites in terms of their entrepreneurial activities, technology and energy use. Through an emic perspective, the authors demonstrate how Mennonites, while preferring an in-group focus, navigate their multisited entrepreneurial activities, which require interaction with the outside world.

The authors highlight the value of combining etic–emic reflections to acknowledge and include the multisited nature of many social phenomena as experienced by the research participants.

The purpose of this work is to study the relationship between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (T_S), breaking strength (B_S) and cloth’s dimensional stability (Sh), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Hence, we select the most interrelationships using the principal component analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the treatments of finishing garments during washing are the important parameters influencing the cloth’s dimensional and the fabric’s mechanical properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their influence on shrinkage. The polynomial regression model relating the tear strength and the shrinkage of denim fabric proves the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.

To investigate the matter, the type of washing, and their contributions to shrinkage, four types of fabrics manufactured into pants were used. These fabrics differ not only by their basis weights (medium and heavy weight fabrics) but, also by their compositions (within and without elastane) and their thread count (warp and weft yarn count, twist and density. To evaluate significant results, a factorial design analysis based on an experimental design was established. The choice of these treatments, as well as their design mode, led us to make a complete factorial experimental design.

According to the results, the prediction of shrinkage behavior as a function of the process washing input parameters seems significant and useful in our experimental design of interest. As a consequence, it was also concluded that after these input parameters, we can find the relationship between the shrinkage (Sh_warp and Sh_weft) and the mechanical properties such as tear strength (T_Swarp and T_Sweft) and breaking strength (B_Swarp and B_Sweft). Thanks to the PCA, it is very easy to reduce the number of the influent output parameters, and knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of mechanical properties knowing the shrinkage of denim garment, during the process of washing seems successful and can undoubtedly help industrial to minimize the poor workmanship of the finishing quality.

This study is very interesting for finishing denim garments. The shrinkage is very important for correcting measures in sewing, considering that a high shrinkage may cause the cancellation of the fit from the client. This type of defect cannot be repaired in the major part of the cases and causes a big loss for the company, moreover the mechanical properties. For this reason, analyzing the value of shrinkage before starting the production cycle is of great importance to apply the right balance to the pattern. The model of predicting the mechanical properties behaviors as a function of the shrinkage denim garment leads manufacturers to eliminate the test of mechanical properties that remain as destructive tests. Moreover, according to the results obtained, it may be concluded that prediction is still accurate through the shrinkage test which is an inevitable test. Even though, these results can bring a huge gain for the garment wash industries.

This work presents the first study predicting a relationship between the mechanical properties and denim garment shrinkage, applying the PCA technique to minimize the all-output parameters that are not significant or correlated with each other. Besides, it deals with the relationship developed between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (T_S), breaking strength (B_S) and cloth’s dimensional stability (Sh), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Moreover, it is notable to mention that the originality of this study is to let to the garment wash industries to save in production time of orders and also in quality.

This study aims to analyze the complex dynamics of money laundering (ML) in the export sector of developing countries, with a special focus on Bangladesh. It aims to uncover the strategies and tactics money launderers use to exploit export transactions and understand the vulnerabilities that exist in economies where enforcement agencies neglect the export industry.

This study examines Bangladesh’s export sector ML using qualitative methods. Customs officers, central bank officers, port authorities and selected exporters were interviewed semi-structured. Document analysis of Bangladesh Bank orders, media and Customs Intelligence and Investigation Directorate reports was also done. Qualitative data patterns were identified using theme analysis.

The study identifies the most vulnerable export commodities – readymade garments, agricultural items and processed foods – as prime targets for ML. Key methods of laundering include under-invoicing, over-invoicing, misdeclaration and fake documentation. The research highlights the significant risk posed by the improper use of government financial incentives and introduces the “sample shipment” method as a novel laundering tactic. The findings underscore the need for stronger oversight and controls to mitigate these risks.

This research is limited by single-point data because ML is a continual activity. The reliance on case studies from newspaper reports and online platforms introduces a degree of selection bias and the chosen instances may not comprehensively represent the broader landscape of trade-based ML.

The study provides several practical recommendations for policymakers and law enforcement agencies to fortify the export sector against exploitation by money launderers, ensuring greater transparency and accountability in international trade operations.

By closing loopholes in the export sector, the research supports the Sustainable Development Goals, particularly Goal 16.4, which aims to reduce illicit financial flows, thereby contributing to poverty eradication and economic stability in developing countries.

Original research results supported by technical analysis are presented in this work. It contributes to the body of knowledge by detailing the adaptive strategies of money launderers and proposing targeted recommendations for enhancing the integrity of the export sector.

Only a small number of studies have analysed the sustainability of the socio-cultural impacts of volunteer tourism (VT). Existing research tends to focus on volunteers, the host communities and organisations, while the interconnectedness between theories (of capitals) and concepts (i.e. empowerment and sustainability) have received minimal attention. Sustainability is considered both an effect of empowerment and a means for achieving it. Drawing on the perspectives and theoretical concepts related to multiple forms of capital, this paper aims to take an interpretive stance to examine socio-cultural impacts.

This research draws on 37 semi-structured interviews conducted with stakeholders on the perceived socio-cultural impacts of VT on two farm communities in Vietnam. A qualitative thematic coding analysis was used to identify themes that explain the perceptions of the stakeholders within the host communities.

The findings of this study were divided into the nine themes of educational effects, job opportunities, cultural exchanges, relationships, health, awareness of environmental conservation, physical changes, promoting local products and tourism and community resource development. The research provides additional insights into the interconnectedness between different types of capital, empowerment and sustainability of socio-cultural impacts.

VT organisations should provide more opportunities for local residents to become involved in decision-making regarding volunteer activities and to share their voices and concerns about how the VT programmes are set up. The government could provide support services or training and skills to locals after the volunteers leave, which would be significant in developing and maintaining the sustainability of impacts on host communities.

This research creates a model for connecting capital to sustainability and empowerment to study the socio-cultural impacts of VT.

只有少数研究分析了志愿旅游（VT）社会文化影响的可持续性。现有的研究往往集中在志工、所在社区和组织上, 而理论（资本）和概念（即赋权、永续性）之间的相互联系很少受到关注。永续发展既被认为是赋权的效益, 也是实现赋权的一种手段。研究借鉴与多种资本形式相关的观点和理论概念, 并采取说明式立场来检视社会文化影响。

本研究借鉴了与利害关系人进行的 37份半结构化访谈, 了解 VT 对越南两个农场社区的社会文化影响。使用定性主题编码分析来确定能够解释主办社区内利害关系人看法的主题.

结果分为教育效果、就业机会、文化交流、人际关系、健康、环境保护意识、身体变化、推广当地产品和旅游业以及社区资源开发九个主题。该研究为不同类型的资本、赋权和社会文化影响的可持续性之间的相互联系提供了更多见解。

旅游志工组织应为当地居民提供更多机会参与志工活动的决策, 并分享他们对VT计画如何设立的意见与担忧。政府可以在志工离开后向当地人提供支持服务或培训和技能, 这对于发展和维持对东道社区影响的可持续性具有重要意义。

这项研究创建了一个将首都与永续发展和赋权联系起来的模型, 以研究 VT 的社会文化影响。

Sólo un pequeño número de estudios han analizado la sostenibilidad de los impactos socioculturales del turismo de voluntariado (VT). Las investigaciones existentes tienden a centrarse en los voluntarios, las comunidades de acogida y las organizaciones, mientras que la interconexión entre las teorías (de los capitales) y los conceptos (es decir, empoderamiento, sostenibilidad) han recibido una atención mínima. La sostenibilidad se considera tanto un efecto del empoderamiento como un medio para lograrlo. Basándose en las perspectivas y conceptos teóricos relacionados con múltiples formas de capital, la investigación adopta una postura interpretativa para examinar los impactos socioculturales.

Esta investigación se basa en 37 entrevistas semiestructuradas realizadas con partes interesadas sobre los impactos socioculturales percibidos de VT en dos comunidades agrícolas en Vietnam. Se utilizó un análisis de codificación temática cualitativa para identificar temas que explican las percepciones de las partes interesadas dentro de las comunidades anfitrionas.

Los hallazgos de este estudio se dividieron en nueve temas de efectos educativos, oportunidades laborales, intercambios culturales, relaciones, salud, conciencia de la conservación ambiental, cambios físicos, promoción de productos locales y turismo, y desarrollo de recursos comunitarios. La investigación proporciona información adicional sobre la interconexión entre diferentes tipos de capital, el empoderamiento y la sostenibilidad de los impactos socioculturales.

Las organizaciones de turismo de voluntariado deberían brindar más oportunidades para que los residentes locales se involucren en la toma de decisiones relativas a las actividades de voluntariado y compartan sus voces e inquietudes sobre cómo se establecen los programas de VT. El gobierno podría brindar servicios de apoyo o capacitación y habilidades a los locales después de que los voluntarios se vayan, lo que sería importante para desarrollar y mantener la sostenibilidad de los impactos en las comunidades anfitrionas.

Esta investigación crea un modelo para conectar las capitales con la sostenibilidad y el empoderamiento con el fin de estudiar los impactos socioculturales de VT.

Self-disgust appears to be a prominent feature in anorexia nervosa (AN), which might help explain why AN is often such a persistent disorder. Little is known about how this emotion can impact on recovering from this disorder. This study aims to develop our understanding of how people experience the emotion of self-disgust after physical recovery from AN.

Twelve female participants who reported previously having had a clinical diagnosis of AN but had physically recovered according to their EDE-Q scores took part in a semi-structured interview to explore their experiences of recovery and the role self-disgust played within this. Interpretative phenomenological analysis was used to explore the data.

Three themes were identified within the data to explain the experiences of self-disgust in those with AN: continued self-disgust following physical “Recovery”, multiple manifestations of self-disgust in recovery and increasing self-disgust in recovery as a driver for relapse.

Self-disgust was something each participant appeared to experience often, despite being physically recovered from AN. Disgust-based reactions to the self are enduring and highly resistant to change even whilst other aspects of the disorder become less potent. Self-disgust is multi-faceted and may trigger relapse as the signs of improvement and behaviours inherent in recovering were generally viewed as disgusting to the individuals.

Self-disgust is an emotion that continues to affect people with AN despite physical recovery. The recovery process itself is not linear and self-disgust is enduring and may cause those affected to relapse. Considering this emotion within therapeutic intervention may encourage those with AN to accept their recovered self.

Despite the plethora of scholarship outputs on masculinity showing it as a fertile research domain, there are noteworthy lacunae on the topic especially in relation to its dynamics among ethnic minority groups. Accordingly, this paper aims to address masculinity and symbolic consumption among Black African consumers in the UK.

The study is interpretive in nature with the use of in-depth interviews conducted with 20 participants in London and the data analysis follows the grounded theory orientation.

It shows masculinity-oriented categorisations of market offerings but with an incidence of cultural tension. It suggests the prevalence of symbolic consumption among participants as demonstrated in their quest for admiration and commendation about their consumption and how masculinity is communicated. A new masculinity typology emerged from the study which depicts men in this context as falling into four categories of gay, conservative, contemporary and men on acme.

The study unpacks issues around masculinity, and multiculturalism, and proposes a novel typology on the topic vis-à-vis the discourse on segmentation, targeting and positioning strategy.