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Article
Publication date: 26 September 2023

Murat Demir and Gonca Balci Kilic

The purpose of this study is to explore the effect of stitch type and stitch direction on the dynamic drape behavior of the woven fabric.

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Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to explore the effect of stitch type and stitch direction on the dynamic drape behavior of the woven fabric.

Design/methodology/approach

In this paper, the effectiveness of stitch type and stitch directions on dynamic drape behaviors were investigated. Fabric parts were sewn together with two types of the stitch (lockstitch and overlock stitch) on three different stitch directions (warp, weft and bias (45°)). The static drape coefficients (SDC) of unsewn and sewn fabrics were measured according to the image process method. Dynamic drape coefficients (DDC) of fabrics were also measured using the same method at six different (25, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150 rpms) rotation speeds. Additionally, bending length and bending rigidity were measured using the Cantilever test method.

Findings

Experimental results showed that stitch type and stitch directions are effective on the dynamic drape behaviors of the fabric. Overlock stitch resulted in greater DDC than the lock stitch. For both of the stitch type, DDC for the stitch on the warp direction are greater than the stitch on the weft and bias direction for all speeds. In addition, bending length, hence the bending rigidity, are greater for overlock stitch type and always weft direction resulted in greater than the warp and bias direction.

Originality/value

Fabric drape is vital for garment appearance and is gaining popularity with the advancement of virtual technology, enabling virtual visualization of garments. While previous studies have predominantly examined either the static or dynamic drape behavior of individual fabric panels, or solely focused on the static drape behavior of sewn fabrics, this study acknowledges the significance of incorporating the influence of stitch type and direction on dynamic drape behaviors. Considering that fabrics are sewn together to create garments and that DDC provides a more accurate representation of real-time fabric behavior compared to SDC, this research makes a valuable contribution to the existing literature by investigating the impact of stitch type and direction specifically on DDC.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 May 2023

Jurgita Domskiene, Modesta Mitkute and Valdas Grigaliunas

This paper aims to present investigations of the influence of sewing and adhesive bonding technology on the aesthetic, mechanical and conductive properties of the e-textile…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to present investigations of the influence of sewing and adhesive bonding technology on the aesthetic, mechanical and conductive properties of the e-textile package. Commercially available conductive textiles are tested for the production of e-textile package by most common cut-and-sewn clothing production technologies.

Design/methodology/approach

Sewing, adhesive bonding and seam sealing technologies used to obtain e-textile packages with woven and knitted conductive textiles. Produced e-textile packages described in terms of thickness, bending rigidity and general appearance. Exploitation properties of prepared samples tested by cycle tensile experiment and discussed on the basis of variation of linear electrical resistance property.

Findings

Research has shown that a reliable e-textile package can be obtained by applying cut-and-sew technology for conductive tracks of silver coated woven and knitted material. Seam sealing by thermoplastic polymer layer has an impact on the electrical and deformation properties of the samples. To create attractive smart clothing design, the appropriate joining method and its technological parameters must be chosen to ensure the durability and safety of e-textile packages.

Originality/value

The findings of the research are of substantial value for the production of e-textiles by cut-and-sewn technologies. The required shape of the conductive textile element for various applications can be cut and joined to the garment parts using traditional sewing or adhesive bonding techniques.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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