New Remazol ® Ultra RGB technology for reduced lead times and higher productivity

Citation

(2007), "New Remazol ® Ultra RGB technology for reduced lead times and higher productivity", Pigment & Resin Technology, Vol. 36 No. 1. https://doi.org/10.1108/prt.2007.12936aab.001

New Remazol ® Ultra RGB technology for reduced lead times and higher productivity

New Remazol^® Ultra RGB technology for reduced lead times and higher productivity

Todays market drivers focus on reduced lead times to support speed to market, higher productivity and elimination of non-conformance for cost effectiveness. The reactive dye technology should be flexible for application by exhaust, cold pad batch (cpb), and continuous dyeing equipment. The new Remazol Ultra RGB dyes designed for deep saturated shades, have outstanding build-up with near perfect compatibility in ternary combinations leading to the development of shorter dyeing processes for exhaust application, whilst delivering an excellent laboratory to bulk and inter-bulk repeatability for all dyeing processes. The innovative chemistry also delivers resistance to washdown after multiple wash cycles in modern activated detergents, and minimal photochromism and colour inconstancy between different light sources – an increasingly important criteria for retailers and brands.

Main market drivers

Targeted research to deliver competitive advantage in meeting market drivers is dependent on accurate intelligence and definition of targets. By maintaining regular contact with the leading global retailers and brands, machinery manufacturers and customers, DyStar reviews the research targets and prioritises for research effort. The main market drivers identified are cost, speed and security (Figure 1).

Figure 1 Drivers of the global textile supply chain

Requirements in exhaust applications

Cost

The main cost element in a deep shade is associated with the ability of the reactive dye to build-up to very deep shades. The innovative chemistry used in the Ultra RGB dyes to achieve very high build-up has also no interaction with other dyes – so-called blocking effect observed with some golden yellow reactive dyes with C.I. Black 5 in exhaust application. In addition the actual strength of the dye governs the percentage applied to achieve a given depth of shade, which in turn determines the quantity of electrolyte used-important for cost, handling and ecological constraints. The handling of the electrolyte becomes increasingly significant as the liquor to goods ratio diminishes on modern design machines, where drawback of liquor for salt additions is limited so as not to cavitate the pump. Figure 2 shows the strength and build-up of the new Remazol Ultra RGB dyes against commodity products.

Speed

The meaning of the word speed in dyeing should include not only time of the dyeing process, but most important the ability of the dye formulation to deliver excellent lab to bulk, and inter- bulk reproducibility (Controlled Coloration^®). The key to Controlled Coloration is the homogeneity of ternary combinations which build up on-tone and are relatively insensitive to normal variations in the dyehouse environment. The new Remazol Ultra RGB dyes have near perfect compatibility which is shown in the build-up evaluations.

The DH figures are the hue element from the CMC 2:1 colour difference formula. The hue angle of each cutting throughout the process is measured against the final shade. The clear advantage of the Remazol Ultra RGB ternary combination when compared against the commodity ternary is apparent. The near identical substantivity values of each of the Remazol Ultra RGB dyes in the electrolyte migration phase of the dyeing process means that it is possible to reduce the time to reach equilibrium before the alkali addition stage. This is important on ultra low liquor machines such as hydraulic/ pneumatic jets and jig dyeing machines.

A possible reduction in time of up to 30min in the migration and alkali addition phase by using Remazol Ultra RGB is possible.

Speed of wash-off of reactive dyes is especially significant in deep red and burgundy shades. The innovative chemistry of the Remazol UltraCarmine RGB delivers high fixation and a lower hydrolysate which has a low substantivity in the electrolyte/alkali dilution phase during the first stages of wash-off. It is customary for deep red and burgundy shades to give two soaping processes to achieve the required wet fastness. The new Remazol UltraCarmine RGB has facile wash-off properties which normally requires only one soaping process in the wash-off phase. The wash-off properties are of considerable benefit where high density material is involved, for example yarn package dyeing and low liquor jig dyeing.

The drive to reduce lead times in the retailer and brand supply chain derives from the need to deliver fast changing palettes for seasonal collections. The fundamental benefit from excellent laboratory to production transferability and from production lot to production lot is significant, and delivery times are therefore far more reliable.

Figure 2 Dye concentrations to achieve the required depth of shade

Security of process and product

Security of process involves standardisation limits of the dyes to support Controlled Coloration as well as eco-compliance and meeting modern fastness requirements. Newer detergent developments aimed at reduction of temperature in the domestic wash cycle have led to the inclusion of peroxy activators such as TAED (mainly Europe) and SNOBS (mainly USA). The bleaching species generated can attack dye chromophores causing shade loss after repeated wash cycles.

Many retailers and brands have reported this which led to development to the ISO 105 C09 and AATCC 190 test protocols which screen for suitability of reactive dyes to multiple wash cycles in the presence of activated bleach detergents. The chromophores of Remazol Ultra RGB dyes are designed to be insensitive to activated bleach detergent wash-down and deliver Color Confidence^® to both retailers and customers.

The superior performance in a neutral medium grey shade to AATCC 190 of the Remazol Ultra RGB ternary combination compared to a commodity ternary combination can be demonstrated. Remazol Ultra RGB has good fastness performance to most of the retailer driven specifications in over 20 deep shades.

Summary

Higher quality specifications accompanied by increasing cost pressure is for a very challenging situation for textile finishers and the textile industry as a whole. Reliable, cost-effective products and technologies are essential for survival in this market. With its newly introduced innovative Remazol Ultra RGB technology DyStar offers Controlled Coloration and Color Confidence to dyehouses, delivering non-photochromism, minimum colour inconstancy (CMCCON02) and alkali dischargeable options.

Remazol Ultra RGB technology reduces the cost of non-conformance by delivering excellent bulk and lab to bulk repeatability, helps to increase productivity, has flexibility of application process to ensure non- metamerism when produced by different processes, with high build-up in deep shades for economy, and good fastness profile for modern retailer fastness demands.